SJX426 

With the readily available decals, I suspect a number of people add the Columbus Tubing decal to the forks, even though they might not have had them origanally. An example is Colango frames. I have yet to see an original frame with the Coumbus tubing decal on the forks.

I am serously considering repainting my 83 frame as part of a "restoration" effort and don't really know if the forks have Columbus steel or not.

On a side note: Given that the fork and chainstays are chromed under the paint. I am also thinking of deveating from the original paint pattern.

Now that I have stripped it down to the frame, I am not very impressed with the overall quality of the frame. It looks like, dispite all the details, that this frame is the basis for a number of different models. I recognize the variation of the tubing, but often a Super looks like a Mexico, looks like a Superissimo with variations of paint pattern and decals. I could easily "restore" my Superissimo to look like a Mexico or Super. I am thinking of taking the route so many others have in defining my own paint coverage to please my own taste. Resale value will probably, not be affected just by the fact of repainting.

Thoughts?

delicious

I would say that because you plan on keeping it for yourself, just paint it to your tastes.

The only repaints I take any issue with is if it's some very rare/historic frame or if someone's trying to make a low-end bike look high-end.

Also if you go local let me know, I'm planning on repainting my already-repainted Pinarello in the next year or so.

SJX426 

delicious: I have not determined if I will do the work or send it out. There are two places in Portland that are candidates. Both do bike frames. One is Power Coat (PC) only and the other does both. Google to find. I used "Portland Powder Coat".

Although I have been counsuled to use wet paint for quality of finish, I have seen some PC that looks as good. My interest is how to deal with the chrome portions of the frame with PC.

The other concern is the decals. I would like both the decals and chrome to be under clear coat. which leaves only wet paint clear coat as a finish.

I am also struggling with the question, "Is it worth it?" To that end, I will reassemble the bike and ride it prior to making any paint/upgrade decisions. There are misssing stock period parts that should be replaced to get closer to original. Unfortunatly they are all Campy parts and NR to boot ($$$).

T-Mar

Forks built from Columbus steel will have the steering column stamped with the Columbus trademark (i.e. dove inside an oval). If the fork is SL or better, it will also have five helical ridges inside the bottom of the steering column.

SJX426 

T-Mar: Thanks. Guess that closes that issue!

Bianchigirll 

I have been sort of pndering this myself in away. not just forks but entire frames. when one take a frame to reputable painter is it possible to get a document stating that "he was offer the following frame to paint and to best yadda yadda" I would like to have two frames repainted this winter but how do I prove that infact the tube set is MAX OR?

T-Mar

Yes, you can ask the painter to give you a receipt stating the make, model tubing and serial number. You can also take date coded pics of the frame, tubing decal and serial number prior to repaint. Propsective buyers can idenitfy the repainted frame via the serial number which can be matched to the receipt and/or pics.

retrofit

In addition to T-Mar's suggestions, check if the painter has access to the "respray" decals:

Attachment 117529

Attachment 117530

stan

unworthy1

as to the chrome and PC-ing: a good PCer can mask the chrome portions (usually with layers of duct tape) prior to bead-blasting. Then they mask the chrome with a heat-resistant tape that can take the oven baking involved in PC-ing. Another good thing to find is a PCer that can get thin build with the powder, it will never be as thin as liquid paint, but I've seen some pretty good PC in pics that doesn't clog all the detail. You should be able to find a liquid clear coat that will stick to the polyester (or epoxy) resin if you want to seal in the decals.