Sorry, had to do it
Sorry, had to do it
Whoa.... It reminds me of Salvador Dali's painting of the melting clocks.
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
I'm amazed. That should have been pretty hard to do...
but if the faces of the tube are still parallel, and the steerer tube fits through the hole, I don't think it would be unrideable. It would, in fact, be pretty darned cool. He should figure out how to symmetrically deform all of the tubes into a real Dali bike...
all kidding aside, what kind of pressure does it take to buckle a tube in that manner?
One can almost stand on a coke can (except for that bend at the bottom to allow stacking) but
minimal pressure will cause it to crumple if applied laterally. So was the headset press not
fitting correctly (or cups) and more pressure on one side than the other?
something doesn't quite add up here for me.
I've always said you have to take the same precautions with a headset press as with any other headset installation method-- block of wood and hammer, washer and bolt method, whatever. You've gotta be sure the cups are going in straight. The fancier tool is no replacement for eyes. I spent about a half hour recently ensuring the bottom cup in a HS installation went in right-- and I have a park press.
Still, I would think the cup would deform before the head tube. I wonder what those look like.
Be easier if you mounted a shim to have the press contact the tube at an angle.
How do you keep an idiot in suspense?
Supposedly, the cups were not reluctant to seat properly - that's what gets me more then anything else. I only wonder whether the powder was cured at a temperature much higher then the 380 +/- degrees Fahrenheit usually used for the purpose, and in the process, weakened the metallurgy.
Extreme heat etc. can certainly mess up the metal, but I just don't believe powdercoating would have reached that kind of temperature. I'm thinking the wall thickness of head tube of this bike was just much thinner than expected.
At any rate, I agree with Luker, this damage does not make the frame dangerous. I see no reason for anything other than the head tube to be weakened. What could go wrong, beside the head tube crushes further due to the extreme pressures exerted on it by the headset? Possibly a crash would take a heavier toll on this head tube than usual; but until then, I don't foresee a problem.
And yes, it looks cool. I'd make a decal of a Dali clock face for a headbadge!
Surely the cups are not square now? Are headtubes typically straight gauge?
1989 Schwinn Paramount OS
1980 Mclean/Silk Hope Sport Touring
1983 Bianchi pista
1976 Fuji Feather track
1979 raleigh track
"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
I'd just like the headtube with the 2 head lugs attached as an art for my mantlepiece.
I don't think that tubing really anneals, so the heat shouldn't have had that effect, no matter how hot the powder coater got it. In general, the ductility of the metal would depend on the cool down period. If the powder coater just left the frame in the oven to cool, that would lead to annealing -- if it was possible.
I was speculating in the framebuilder's forum that there was built in stress that would tend to push the head tube and lead to buckling. Maybe the head tube reamer took out too much material. Either way, this is a new one.
I was going to say "that'll buff right out," but I decided the owner had been punished enough.
i would actually expect there to be stress at the opposite ends of the top tube and down tube. the change in geometry might seem small, but i'm curious to see how much of a difference it really made.
I know I'm going to hear it but here it goes, for years all I've ever used to replace headsets is a block of wood and a rubber mallet, I just place the top set on the headtube with a block of wood on top of it, make sure its level and give it a good tap with the rubber mallet, 9 times out of 10 it sets right in place, then I place a block of wood on top of it and drive it in with the rubber mallet, takes me all of 2 minutes to do top and bottom, never a problem.
You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve
i do the same. I'll share the flames with ya.
...and I remove cups with a big ass flat head screwdriver and a hammer. carefully.
I would expect the wooden block and hammer method to work fine on most steel bikes myself. I have a reamer/headset press, so that's what I use.
It appears that the lugs are now offset by a large portion of 1/4", so the faces of the lugs cannot possibly be square.
Extra pressure will not force a set of cups into alignment if the head tube needs facing, instead.