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  1. #1
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    Raleigh 410 Steel Tube "Blue"






    Pics from a similar thread in the General Forums. I'm very new to this hobby/passion. My plan is very simple, to eventually replace all the rusted components with new ones (that fit).

    I am currently in the market looking for a new saddle and to invest in a helmet and I found both for a reasonable deal on Nashbar. I also want to support my LBS by purchasing items there whenever I can.

    I guess my first call for help would be ID. I would like to know the model of the bike so I can do an online search for different projects of the same bike.

    Secondly, what is a good way of determining whether or not a component will fit? For example, I would like to replace the SunTour derailleur, crank set, and gear. What specific details can I look under to know if it is compatible. Also for it being an 80s bike, I think that it'll be more of a challenge. Correct me if I'm wrong.

    That's it for now. If no one minds, I also would like to use this thread as sort of a journal and update it with pics whenever I can.

    Thanks a lot.

  2. #2
    Just keep pedalling! big_heineken's Avatar
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    The model name is written right there on the top-tube. Its high tensile steel. A comfortable rider but a little on the heavy side. You will have to get a derailleur with a hanger attached. I have one very similar that I made into a single speed:





    It's a ~85-86 Capri with the 410 tubing
    Hook 'em Horns!

  3. #3
    PanGalacticGargleBlaster Zaphod Beeblebrox's Avatar
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    You might want to start with a better frame if your intention is a full piece by piece rebuild of this.

    If you like that style have a look for a Raleigh Grand Prix or Super Course (or International if you're feeling saucy) they're built with better tubing, will be considerably lighter and can be had for not too much dinero.

    On the other hand, nearly all the parts you'd put on to this frame would fit on another, higher quality frame. So you could upgrade this frame piece-by-piece (saving all the bits you take off) and when it comes time that you want a nicer frame, you could move all your components over.

    You'll want a Front Derailleur with a 28.6mm clamp (fairly standard on vintage derailleurs) you'll likely want a Long cage (or GT) Rear derailleur to handle the gear range. Standard Square taper cranks. You could change the stem shifters out for Downtube or Bar end shifters since you've got the proper guides on the downtube.

  4. #4
    Just keep pedalling! big_heineken's Avatar
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    So what model is it and where are the pics?
    Hook 'em Horns!

  5. #5
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    To answer your question, it is a Raleigh 410 "Sportif" Steel frame. I was a bit unclear in my original post, but the pictures are actually of my bike. I created an earlier thread which used the same pictures, so I just copy and pasted them here.

    Today I installed a new saddle and put in a bottle cage. It's not that expensive of a saddle, a San Marco Ischia. After adjusting it, and riding it to the bank and back, my verdict? The old one hurt my ass, this one still hurts my ass. And the nose of the saddle is a bit longer, so it catches my baggy shorts. Otherwise, it looks great. I might look into purchasing a seat post for it, but seeing as I have to really prop myself up to even get onto the bike, I can wait.

    As I was removing the old saddle, I noticed that it was housing a small spider probably living somewhere underneath the dirty saddle and inside the hollow bike post. I just thought it was funny. I also took a spill going way under even 1 mph...by the time I realized it, the handlebars were turned to a point where it could not support the bike and I dropped it, also causing a scruff on my new saddle.

    As I'm riding, I notice that the bike feels shaky and wobbles to a certain extent. I think the bike may be off centered and misaligned from old age. In either case, I plan on taking it to my LBS for a tune up and to replace the break cables. I know in my OP, I said I would swap out ALL the components, but my epic plans may fall short. I don't plan on spending anymore money unless the part wears down to an unridable state.

  6. #6
    Upright bars SirMike1983's Avatar
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    Random but about stowaway spiders:

    A spider of fair size made its home inside the shell of my sideview mirror of my car behind the mirror itself. This was in April or May. I believe it was an Orb Weaver spider. Everyday I would come out in the morning to go to work and a big orb web would be present between the mirror shell and the car door. I'd knock it down but see no spider. Every evening I'd park the car and not notice any spider. Yet the next day another web would be there. Finally one day I saw it and tried to evict it, but it went back into the shell and hid. The orbs continued day in and day out until August. Even a trip from Bethesda to Bowie didn't jar him out. Finally in August I drove about 400 miles from Bethesda to Connecticut for vacation. I thought that would get him blown out, but the morning after arriving in CT the orb was there again, but no sign of the spider itself. I took the car to the mechanic's to have it serviced. They washed the entire thing with a power washer, including the mirror areas and the shells behind the mirrors. The next morning after that no orb-- tought it was washed out. But the morning after that the orb was back again-- it had survived multiple medium distance trips, a 400 mile trip and a power washing and was still building a new web every night religiously.

    Finally one day the orbs stopped. I actually was somewhat disheartened thinking the spider had died. By this point I'd stopped trying to evict it and let it be. The spider never tried to come into the car or move around while during the day or driving. I only saw it maybe twice the entire period. I checked behind the mirror to see if it was dead. Yet there was no body at all. Apparently the spider just left. I can only hope that spider had as long and decent a life as a spider can have. I came to appreciate that even in some of the smallest creatures there's a real tenacity. I actually respect that spider-- for such a small thing it made it a long time and a long way.
    English Roadsters, American Roadsters, and Balloon Tire Bicycles
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  7. #7
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    Minor update + questions

    After much thought and asking around, I don't foresee this bike participating in any races or hilly climbs. It's just gonna be my cruiser/beater that I'll use to ride around town. Some upgrades will be cosmetics and others will be for performance. I'm on a cheap budget

    Is it possible to move the shifters on my stem elsewhere? There is the option of converting the bike to a single speed, should I take it?

    The cassette is pretty rusted along w/ the FD. I bought some chain lube and it looks a little better, but would it be worth upgrading these parts?

    I would like to put ergo breaks in replacement of the awkward looking breaks (Dia-Compe?) I currently have. I have my eyes on Tektro's R100A (for smaller hands). They are inexpensive and I read good things about them.

    Thanks for putting up with my noob inquires.

  8. #8
    Just keep pedalling! big_heineken's Avatar
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    The Tektro R100A levers are awesome (I have stubby fingers).

    You can buy clamp-on downtube shifters for pretty cheap online.

    These are friction only:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G2CTX2

    And these are friction or indexed, in case you upgrade in the future:
    http://www.beyondbikes.com/ItemMatri...mpaign=Froogle

    Single speed would work, that's how I have mine, but it can be a pain if there are a lot of hills.
    Hook 'em Horns!

  9. #9
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    Hey Big_Heineken,

    thanks for the response. I was actually riding some small hills today and I can definitely say "I want gears."

    I can't really figure out the shifters on my stem. Then again, I have yet to take it to the bike shop to get it tuned. Im sure a little oil/lube in there will make things a little smoother in terms of shifting gears. Gotta make sure both my Derailleurs are lined up properly and making sure the chain is not too worn down.

  10. #10
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    Dear C&V,

    thank you for the guidance these few months. I read through many inspiring threads full of projects that were similar to mine. This is my first project bike, though I did not build it from scratch. I understand that the frame is too large for me, but I have been able to get around that...well, for now. I do plan to upgrade frame (steel) but not anytime soon as I want to see how long I stay in this hobby.

    Pics! Finally!







    The brake housing for the rear brake was not given enough slack and so when I make a sharp left turn, there is some resistance. The cables weren't cut clean enough and adding on the crimp was a pain. While installing the rear presta tube there was a small metal "turn pin" that accidentally left underneath the rim. The clear disk spacer is still there. It is so ugly, but I didn't have the tools to remove it. Can I simply snap it off?

    Especially when I want to use a higher gear, the shifters tend revert back to neutral. Are there anyways to make the shifting smoother? Applying a bit of lube here and there? Proper FD & RD adjustment? I learned to shift properly so I'm happy.
    I ride Steel

  11. #11
    Just keep pedalling! big_heineken's Avatar
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    Good job, that looks a lot better than before and I bet it rides better too! Try tightening the screw on the shifters to get the derailleurs to stay where you want them. They would probably work better if you took them apart and put some fresh grease on them, before you tighten the screw.
    Hook 'em Horns!

  12. #12
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    Day 1 summer

    now that i have my fuji in michigan, i can be experimental for my raleigh. im going to attempt to do a fixie/singlespeed conversion on my bike. I've already removed FD, RD, shifters, and both wheels. I think I may have to get a new back wheel unless i can somehow convert the hub i currently have. later today i will try to remove the crankset and from then i will look for parts online. great project, i'll try to be finished in 4 months.
    I ride Steel

  13. #13
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    Day 2 summer

    bought the tool i needed to remove the crankset but i realized that the nuts have been riveted on. there goes my plans to use it as a crank for a fixed/SS. then i went ahead and overhauled the bb which was very nasty and orange. i re-greased everything put it back to together but it didn't make as smooth of a sound as i wanted it to. so instead, i repeated the process to my liking. tomorrow i will bring the wheel in to the lbs and have them remove the freewheel altogether. i plan on asking them for advice on the conversion and if it turns out it will take too much money or work, then i don't know what i'll do with blue. i just wanted to get fixie experience before i returned to michigan. most importantly, i just want to ride a bike darn it!
    I ride Steel

  14. #14
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    Day 3 Summer

    really wanted to see what my rear hub looked like so i went to the lbs and had the remove it for me. afterward, i asked him what my options were and he told me fixie was not possible. so knowing that i went ahead and bought a singlespeed freewheel, a chain, and new tube. i regreased my rear hubs and assembled everything. took her for a spin, but realized that there was a soft spot in the tire(tube) so i deflated the tube and will work on it again tomorrow.
    I ride Steel

  15. #15
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    No idea why you can't single-speed that frame.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Alan Edwards's Avatar
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    You can make any bike a fixed gear bike. I don't know If someone has sent you to "sheldon brown.com" or not but this is the best, widest base of knowledge on bikes on the internet. On the crank arm I know many people who have drilled out the rivets and used washers and bolts with nuts to get the proper chainline. If you want to use the smaller chainring and it is riveted to the big one you can cut the outer edge of the ring off. This leaves you with the larger ring cut down as a spider to hold the smaller ring with bolts and washers to get the chain line you want. Don't forget to look for other junk bikes to use for parts, thats how you get the cheapest patrs for fixies.
    Totaly cheap wieght weenie. Totaly cheap bike snob. But I love Italian hand made stuff. 84' Ciocc, 85' Raleigh Super Course, 96' Sakae Litage, 2000 Lemond Maillot Jaune,
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  17. #17
    aspiring bicyclist Shinjiboy's Avatar
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    I actually did make the bike into a single speed. sorry if i wasn't clear. i rode to school today, but i got a flat halfway through, that stupid new tube...i went to the lbs had it pumped and after grabbing some lunch w/ my friend, the tire deflated again. i ended up taking the lightrail home today...

    tomorrow i shall get to the end of this.

    i noted on a small descend that i was pedaling faster than the gearing would let me. it is currently around 42/16t and now i can see why the store manager in michigan said it necessary to run 52t. those cranks are so expensive...and also there is slack in the chain, guess i'll remove another link tomorrow.

    thx for reading.
    I ride Steel

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