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Old 01-07-10, 02:16 PM   #1
Dr.Deltron
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FRAME PAINTING ...DIY Lessons for rattlecan success!

AS I was was spraying just now, I had to stop & make this quick post...

If you really are up for the challenge of repainting a frame, a GREAT way to get a COMPLETE understanding of the tasks ahead, do this....



Go to Toys-R-Us & buy an ESTES model rocket!!

Build it & paint it, and you'll be far wiser, young padiwon!


Truly,
..you have tubing as a substrate, complex intersections, fine detail, various materials; both of build AND finishing, as well as those brutal water-slide decals!

You'll learn to be....um..patient!

If you paint too soon..(clouding); paint a little too late...(wrinkling); too much paint...(runs); too little...(dusty); a little too little....(orange peal); didn't press the edge of the tape down well...(tape bleed); sanded through layer...(bleed through;shows when painted over with light colors); clear when it's cold...(clouding); clear when it's really cold...(solvent popping; champagen bubbles through-out the clear)

You get the idea.

But then you clear-coat it and GO!

Launch or ride, they're both fun!

plus, rockets are small, and will leave you equipped with some leftover paint for when you decide you really want to spray a frame!

Good luck with that!

now back to the booth...flash time is up.
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Old 01-07-10, 03:05 PM   #2
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Sounds familiar..
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Old 01-07-10, 03:19 PM   #3
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I just got done spray painting the driveshaft and rear pumpkin on my 67 Thunderbird that I'm restoring. I used that automotive paint from Oreilly's that's like $7 a can. Sanded them down, put on 1 coat(no primer or clearcoat) and 4 days later I put the driveshaft on. Did all this in just above freezing weather. You can't even scratch it with a fingernail. I plan on doing several bikes this way come spring. Sure it may not be quite as durable as factory, but it's still more durable than what most people think. If you can get your bike powder coated for $7 then by all means do so. Until then I suggest using that automotive paint instead. Your color choices are somewhat limited though. I recommend the aluminum color as it looks similar to something you'd see on a 70s era bike.
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Old 01-07-10, 09:30 PM   #4
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Jenny can + automotive paint = factory champagne-quality finish on a beer budget
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Old 01-08-10, 09:38 AM   #5
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I thought the secret was Low Expectations.
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Old 01-08-10, 10:15 AM   #6
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Not necessarily?,,,,BD

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Old 01-08-10, 11:02 AM   #7
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Jenny can + automotive paint = factory champagne-quality finish on a beer budget
What's a "Jenny Can"?

Also, is there a difference between brands of rattle can paint? Recommendations?

L
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Old 01-08-10, 11:30 AM   #8
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That may be another name for those bottles with the aerosol cannisters that screw on the top. Just pure speculation on my part?,,,,BD
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Old 01-08-10, 11:37 AM   #9
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A Jenny Can is a DIY spray paint can. You fill it with whatever paint you'd like, pressure it and spray. When done, clean it out a store it for next time. It's about the size of a rattle can. It looks like a SIGG water/fuel bottle, if you know what they look like.
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Old 01-08-10, 11:39 AM   #10
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Ahhh, yeah I forgot about the ones you can pressurize yourself. I may try to pick ine of those up.,,,,BD
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Old 01-08-10, 11:42 AM   #11
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I'm waiting until spring to paint the frame. It's too cold now.

You don't want lacquer. It's brittle and doesn't hold up on a bike. Most Dupli Color paints are lacquer. Read the lable.

The clearcoat can be used over decals.

Last edited by Grand Bois; 01-08-10 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 01-08-10, 12:12 PM   #12
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All good points.

My success tips
- PREP, PREP and more PREP
- Warm the rattle can by placing in hot/warm water- helps it flow.
- Spray hard to reach spots first.
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Old 01-08-10, 04:04 PM   #13
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Sounds familiar..
And whilst I was aposting.............






So I'll go with the grey polka dots and keep moving forward.
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Old 01-09-10, 12:41 AM   #14
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Thank you for the suggestion, Dr. Deltron. I have never painted a bike frame, but I have assembled and painted a few Estes rockets before -- got the bug when I was a Cub Scout den leader. Thank you for pointing out that painting a frame is no more difficult (or easy) than painting a model rocket. Now the task seems less daunting.
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Old 03-03-10, 12:12 PM   #15
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Now the task seems less daunting.
OH GOOD!!!

And here are the results, foibles and all!!...



and the other one....
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Old 03-03-10, 12:21 PM   #16
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Rustoleum primer, orange, metallic blue, and clear; ultrafine white paint pen for the lug linings, new decals from JR Restore. It looks really good up close too.

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Old 03-03-10, 12:56 PM   #17
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im painting an old aluminum frame, and while its not as difficult as i expected, patience is KEY... today ill be finishing my tape work (tape all the lugs and chromed parts), then prime with a great professional primer (self etching primer) then paint with a bottle of car paint, then Urethane...

a friend told me about a place were you can buy car paint, after they mix it you can have it in a spray can, they also mix urethane in spray!! this is going to rock!

tape 2.50
blades 1.50
primer was 8.00
paint 18.00
urethane 14.00
total 44.00

wish me luck, ill post pics of the project.

If you dont prime the surface your paint work wont last long...
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Old 03-03-10, 01:13 PM   #18
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Rustoleum primer, orange, metallic blue, and clear; ultrafine white paint pen for the lug linings, new decals from JR Restore. It looks really good up close too.
SCED - How did you handle the blue color bars over the orange - is there a step at the edges where you can feel the additional layer? Does the clear coat and sanding even that out?
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Old 03-03-10, 01:34 PM   #19
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SCED - How did you handle the blue color bars over the orange - is there a step at the edges where you can feel the additional layer? Does the clear coat and sanding even that out?
I masked the panels, painted the orange, then masked the orange and painted the blue. I did a little sanding where the orange meets the blue, and elsewhere to tidy up. I then mounted the decals and cleared the whole frame sans openings. There are little world champion stripe decals supplied by JR Restore where the orange meets the blue. Like on the bike originally, the decals are raised a bit but I didn't want to put the requisite coats of clear on to "bury" them. I've had the bike since new (1973) and have repainted it 4x. I used 2 layers of clear contact paper, which has a slightly matte finish, to protect the right chain stay.
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Old 03-03-10, 01:34 PM   #20
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- is there a step at the edges where you can feel the additional layer?
I would say yes, most likely. Even if you use base coat, it still makes a "step".

Quote:
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Does the clear coat and sanding even that out?
You have to build up a few coats, then sand, then reclear.

I had to do that twice to get the foil decals smooth on this Frejus.
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Old 03-03-10, 01:37 PM   #21
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I have a lot to learn. You guys are good!
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Old 03-03-10, 01:50 PM   #22
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Yes, hobbies makes you solve problems, and elevate your digital(as in fingers) dexterity. I hang a lot of wallpaper in my painting business and after delving into model railroading during the winter months, I notice the quality of my paper hanging improves. Also my ability to paint straight lines is better after modeling and painting HO scale models. It all relates in the end.
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Old 03-03-10, 02:10 PM   #23
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Dang, you guys are really good. Now all we need is personal sand/media blasters to get them really clean.
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Old 03-03-10, 02:18 PM   #24
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IMO the issue is less the cost and availability and more the mess they make. You can get a air compressor powered Media Blaster for under 50 bux.
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Old 03-03-10, 02:35 PM   #25
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Hmmm....crap. You guys are making want to paint my alloy frame rather than powder it.
Alloy needs a self etching primer, right?
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