Building a wheel set with VO's 'retro' PBP rims
#1
Mostly Mischief
Thread Starter
Building a wheel set with VO's 'retro' PBP rims
Anybody tried these, the narrowest clinchers VO offer?
They look real good, with an incredible polished finished and no garish decals. The cross section is decidedly box, and hopefully will look right at home on an early friction-shifting bike, although they seem noticeably taller than tubulars.
the braking surface is not machined, which add to their good looks but hopefully won't subtract from stopability.
Building them up tomorrow night or on the weekend, followed by ride report.
They look real good, with an incredible polished finished and no garish decals. The cross section is decidedly box, and hopefully will look right at home on an early friction-shifting bike, although they seem noticeably taller than tubulars.
the braking surface is not machined, which add to their good looks but hopefully won't subtract from stopability.
Building them up tomorrow night or on the weekend, followed by ride report.
#2
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They look an awful lot like the Rigida AL-1320 rims, even the sticker is similar. That's not really a big surprise since VO loves French stuff, maybe that was intentional. I hope you like them.
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hey Jan, that suntour hub in the background with the high flanges and cut-outs, any info on when they were made etc? i can't seem to find any info but i've got a set of them and i'd like to know more.
thanks,
andy
thanks,
andy
#4
Disraeli Gears
Is the red thing in the foreground a spoke wrench? Whose? And the high-flange hub is a Campagnolo Record, right?
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I wish that the rims were clear anodized like a set of Mavics I have. They look almost as good as a freshly polished rim. Polishing rims is not something I enjoy and I have six pairs of bare aluminum rims to keep shiney.
#8
Mostly Mischief
Thread Starter
I guess the other paraphernalia on the pic generated more interest than the rims!!
Yes, it is a Spokey Red by DT Swiss, the best spoke wrench I've tried. And Campy high flange hubs.
The spokes are from the many bundles I have left after taking wheels apart. They happened to be close enough in length for the low flange hubs, while I don't have any spokes for the high flanges. Anyone with some spare 288mm DB, about 72 of them?
Yes, it is a Spokey Red by DT Swiss, the best spoke wrench I've tried. And Campy high flange hubs.
The spokes are from the many bundles I have left after taking wheels apart. They happened to be close enough in length for the low flange hubs, while I don't have any spokes for the high flanges. Anyone with some spare 288mm DB, about 72 of them?
Last edited by jan nikolajsen; 01-29-10 at 10:27 AM.
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Let us know how it goes!
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#11
Mostly Mischief
Thread Starter
The rims trued up nice. Still I think they are too deep for my taste. Back to tubulars...
BTW, using spokes of 295mm front and 293mm aft is perfect for Campy low flange hubs.
BTW, using spokes of 295mm front and 293mm aft is perfect for Campy low flange hubs.
Last edited by jan nikolajsen; 01-30-10 at 08:32 PM.
#12
Disraeli Gears
They look exactly like a set of NOS Campy Record/MA2 wheels I have sitting next to me: nice! But the Cinelli probably should have sewups. What time period are you going for, rim wise? I have a NOS pair of Wolber Aspin rims, 36H (gray ano) that I might be willing to trade for something clincher.
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So, How is the ride on those rims? I'm considering buying a set to lace up to some low flange Normany Luxe Competition hubs. It looks like its been about ten days since you've had them on the Gazelle. Was that enough time to get a good feel for them?
#16
Mostly Mischief
Thread Starter
I have had to leave for a few weeks, so they have not seen significant road miles yet. First impression is good, is all I can say at this point.
Really my sensitivities are pretty dull to the finer aspects of riding, so mostly I'm concerned about durability, which, off course, cannot be judged until much later.
When braking one has a slight, but definitely noticeable bump at the joint.
Hope this helps..
Really my sensitivities are pretty dull to the finer aspects of riding, so mostly I'm concerned about durability, which, off course, cannot be judged until much later.
When braking one has a slight, but definitely noticeable bump at the joint.
Hope this helps..
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You might be able to bang or file the bump away.
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#18
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those rims definitely look like copies of the rigida AL-1320, right down to the small oval VO decal. they're probably much more durable. they look great on your gazelle, jan.
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Just from the pic, they do look exactly like th 1320 but deeper. I will measue my 1320 and report back.
#20
Mostly Mischief
Thread Starter
When building the VO rims I worked to an ERD of 606mm, while Spo-Calc calls for 610mm on the Rigida.
All other factors being equal (which I'm sure they are not!), those 2mm in radius difference should hardly be visible.
All other factors being equal (which I'm sure they are not!), those 2mm in radius difference should hardly be visible.
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The VO's are definitely taller and the "shoulders" on the rims also look boxier on them. So VOs are taller/Boxier, OK, but not as nice looking as the old Rigidas, IMO. They do look real tough/strong though and could hold trueness for a long time. I'm curious about the weight on the VOs though, are they heavier than Rigida1320s and Mavics MA40s?
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I have a set of rims at home awaiting a build up using Campy high flange hubs and some new DT spokes. I have had them for two months but have been so busy I haven't had time to build the wheels, ... or ride, ... or do anything else other than work.
The VO rims are definitely deeper than the MAVIC MA-2's I have at home. I think that means they are deeper than the MA-40's, too.
If I get a bump at a seam I take a sanding block to the braking surface. Use fine grit (400 - 600 grit) wet/dry sandpaper on a hardwood block. Lay the sanding block flat on the braking surface. Use the flatness of the braking surface to ensure you do not change the sidewall profile. Sand off just enough to smooth out the braking.
The VO rims are definitely deeper than the MAVIC MA-2's I have at home. I think that means they are deeper than the MA-40's, too.
If I get a bump at a seam I take a sanding block to the braking surface. Use fine grit (400 - 600 grit) wet/dry sandpaper on a hardwood block. Lay the sanding block flat on the braking surface. Use the flatness of the braking surface to ensure you do not change the sidewall profile. Sand off just enough to smooth out the braking.
Last edited by Mike Mills; 02-10-10 at 02:38 PM.
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I like the looks of those rims even if they are a bit deep. Let us know how they ride.
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1959 Bottecchia Milano-Sanremo(frame), 1966 Bottecchia Professional (frame), 1971 Bottecchia Professional (frame),
1973 Bottecchia Gran Turismo, 1974 Bottecchia Special, 1977 Bottecchia Special (frame),
1974 Peugeot UO-8, 1988 Panasonic PT-3500, 2002 Bianchi Veloce, 2004 Bianchi Pista