frpax

OK, the old 684 I got is going to ride again!

The paint was horrible, with a capital "H". Fortunately, it had an in tact expander seat post. Well, it was in tact until I decided to take it out so I could refinish it. Removal of said seat post resulted in it's demise... The binder bolt broke.

So, I had to go to plan "B". I got a seatpost clamp, but had to modify the seat tube. First, I had to file the top of the tube square. Then I cut a slot in the back of the tube with my Dremel. Then, I had to "notch" the fillet brazing on the front of the seat tube (where the top tube mates up with it). At first, I was concerned about this last step, but when I saw how over built the thing is, I figured it'd be fine.

So, here it is:









Prior to priming it, I put a seatpost in & clamped it down. Then I took a heavy rubber mallet to it and it didn't budge at all.

So now it is painted and I have some clear on it. I got some decals from JR @ Velocals, and let me tell you, his decals are TOP NOTCH! VERY nice.

I'll post more pics soon!

Your thoughts & comments are welcome...

pastorbobnlnh 

I'm always inspired by innovative work arounds. Great job on the seatpost challenge. Can't wait to see the progress.

rumrunn6

I love the look of that white undercoat. something about working with metal is so appealing.

that_guy_zach

That looks a ton better than most attempts to mount a clamp on those bikes that I have seen. Good work, I cant wait to see the finished results.

frpax

Thank you!

You should have seen it as a bare aluminum frame. WOW! It was SO pretty, I was tempted to just clear coat it and call it good. The only problem with that, is that the fork is cro-moly, and it looked funny unfinished. I had to paint the fork, and even if I painted it silver, it would still look funny against the bare frame. Maybe a carbon fork would look cool, but I don't have the money for one, and this is more of a restoration/resurrection project.

RobbieTunes

You have just solved the identical problem I'm about to have with a 564, and have basically provided the instruction manual on how to do so. Can I ask what size clamp you ended up with? 31.8? I've got both a 28.6 and a 31.8, so I should be OK.

Thanks for doing that.

frpax

Robbie,

I got a 31.8 clamp, and it's a teeny bit too small. I used a large bladed screwdriver to open it up a bit to get it on to the seat tube. Once on, though, it's ON.

I've got the Candy Apple Red paint on the frame now, and a good bit of clear coat. I just got the decals from JR (at VeloCals) and man, I am IM-PRESSED! Top notch work from him... I need to let the clear gas out for another day or two before I apply the decals. Then more clear.

RobbieTunes

PM sent. Made my day.

noglider 

Wait, wait wait! You have to drill a hole at the bottom of the slit you cut. The whole should be wider than the slit so the end result looks like an upside down lollipop. This is to spread the stress. If you don't, the slit will continue down the seat tube.

frpax

NOW you tell me! Sheesh!

Well, once the clear coat is all on and dried, I'll do that.

Well, I got the decals on. And MAN O MAN, does it look good!

I'm having problems uploading, so be patient.

that_guy_zach

Cant wait. I will own at some point.

frpax

OK, here we go. Sorry I didn't take the time to take some really nice pics, these were done real quick like, as it was hanging after applying some clear.

noglider 

Gawjiss.

pastorbobnlnh 

It is really looking sweet! JR rocks another set of decals. Your paint job looks superb. Are you a hobbyist or is this a profession?

frpax

A hobbyist, with lots of rattle can experience. I do a lot of model cars and my finishes are one thing I'm known for. "Rattle Can Picasso" was a nickname hung on me a few years ago. I have airbrushes, paint sprayers, & compressors, but I get some very satisfactory results out of good rattle cans.

khatfull

You gotta be kidding me that this is rattle can work. Out of curiosity, what paint did you use.

That simply looks outstanding sir!

frpax

Dupli-Color Truck, Van & SUV Laquer throughout. White Primer under Candy Apple Red with clear over it.

Right now, in real life, it looks a bit rougher. But once all the clear is on, and I've wet sanded it, buffed & polished it, it will look even better than what the camera can capture. Once it's all done, I'll take a LOT of really good pics.

LAJ

Very nice.

As an actual original owner of a 684, I am following this with interest.

KDB

Great job on the seat post. Now, am I following this correctly: you got that sweet looking paint job via the rattle cans from the local automotive store?

How many coats and how much sanding between coats? I am so tempted to repaint my Schwinn Traveler!

frpax

Yes.

I do not sand between coats. Lacquer is a pretty "hot" paint, so the coat you put on, sort 'melts' into the rest. So sanding between coats doesn't do anything, unless you have some really bad orange peel happening. It sometimes does happen, it really depends on how the rattle can nozzle atomizes the paint. If it does, then I sand the high spots off, and continue. Typically, though, I just wet sand the final coat to remove any light orange peel, first with 800 grit, then 1000 grit sandpaper. Then I buff (by hand, with a SMOOOOOTH chamois), then polish (again with a chamois).

As to how many coats, I have lost count . About 3 color coats, and so far, maybe 5 coats of clear prior to decals. Over decals, I have two light coats (yesterday) and one medium coat so far today. Lacquer sets up pretty quickly (depending on temperature & humidity, but here in the Phoenix area, it is warm and dry- perfect for lacquer), so 2 or 3 coats in a day is feasible.

frpax

I should have a clinic in this.. hehe!

frpax

Also, I should say that the biggest problem with lacquer is that while it sets up fairly quick, it does take a while to really "dry". I speed this process up with a small oscillating space heater. Not too hot, but nice and warm in a small enclosed area (like a bathroom) overnight. after a few nights of that, then it's okay (for me) to put on, say a clamp on front derailleur.

Poly urethane is better for bikes, but you need a compressor / paint gun / etc. and I have it, but hate the hassle.

It's all "give & take", you know?

Grand Bois

The biggest problem with laquer is that it's brittle and doesn't hold up on a bicycle frame.

You can buy Urethane clearcoat in a spray can, but it's not cheap. You can buy automotive base coats in spray cans on the same site.

https://www.carpaintdepot.com/products.php?cat=10

You should have used zinc chromate primer on the bare aluminum and then sprayed the white primer over that.

frpax

Lacquer can be brittle, but once it has cured properly, it is actually very durable.

Grand Bois

No it's not. That's why they don't use it on cars anymore.

Dupli Color makes a line of acrylic enamel that is more durable than their lacquer. They say so themselves.