jamesss

As soon as I frame saver frame, install headset, BB, cranks (<with a little help from LBS), overhaul hubs, cables, brakes, handlebars/ tape, and tune. Should be done next week! Looking forward to the new old ride because the weather has really been nice lately.

Littlemore

I own a TX 770. It took three years to restore. So take your time in restoring it. Check out this site https://www.vitage-trek.com

Bikedued

www.vintage-trek.com Corrected address. And yes, it's a VERY good Trek reference guide! Looks GORGEOUS!! Nice color, with a antique brown Brooks and matching wrap?? Breathtaking! Hinthint, hehe.,,,,BD

jebensch

Spec-f'n-tacular!

Are you going to upgrade anything in the build back up? How are the race surfaces in the BB cups?

RobE30

Very nice project man! Keep up w/ the pictures

Bikedued

This bike deserve at the very least a Shimano cartridge BB? Any bike I am going to ride seriously doesn't stay cup and cone for long, unless it's something completely
original, like a nice weather ride around the block on sunny weekends bike.,,,,BD


This bike would look stunning with some vinyl repro decals!!

mkeller234

I like the paint color you chose. The frame looks great, I am looking forward to the finished product.

Lenton58 

Great color ... shows of the lugs nicely. I wish my 560 had the longer head tube like yours. Bikdued has a point about the BB — sealed and there for a long time without maintenance. But my bikes have cone and cup. Call me old fashioned ... or maybe that is what I had around. Well, for the the 560 I was overjoyed to find an NOS Cyclone BB belong to a BF member — original equipment and as smooth as silk. But 3000 Km down the road, I should pull it apart and redo the bearings and grease. No big deal really, if you have crank removal tool and a torque wrench. Your call.

BTW — you may have been thinking that the intricately traced patterns in the original paint were all a part of the rust. IMHO, not so. Those curly-que-thingy-puffers are actually produced by a bio-organism. And if memory serves me right, it is fungal ... but I could be faulty there.

We can see the exact thing tracing its way across aluminum alloy on motorcycle engine/transmision casings ... under clear uerethane coatings in some cases. it puzzled me for years until I read about it somewhere on the net.

Only a speculation — but if the primer coat for the Dupont Imron paint contained alumium oxide, it may have been acting as a bed for this organic growth. According to some accounts, a metallic, aluminum undercoating can enhance the luster of the top coatings.

Ditto ... please keep the pics coming. I'm impressed by your progress.

Questions ... where and how did you find the powder coating service? I ask cuz here where I live, it seems that everyone in Japan has to send the frame to somewhere in Osaka. It costs about $200, and I do not expect that the price covers shipping there and back. It's like shipping from New York to St Louis — and back! What did you pay?

jamesss

The powder coater was recommended by the mechanic at the LBS. I googled the name of the shop and the only thing that came up was the yellow pages. The guy didn't answer his phone so I just drove out there, it was about a 45 minute drive. It took him a week to get it done. I think it is a one day job. Blast>spray powder>bake>clear coat. He did a really nice job, not too thick. I did notice I could see the brazing underneath in a few places, but you can barely tell with the green color. There is also some slight pitting but I think that is good thing because that means he took it down to bare steel and got rid of that pesky rust. He charged $100, the sign on the front door said "prices change according to customers attitude" I wonder if there is any truth to this? Also I asked why he didn't have a website, apparently he runs a 3 man shop to maintain a high quality product and he seems to be doing just fine on word of mouth.

Bikedued
Where do I source those decals?

I think I will take a little more time on this one...

Lenton58 

Well, he must have liked you ... and why not?

Anyway, you could not have done a good rattle can job for very much less ... lets say polyuerethane ... two coats of primer, two coats of top-coat ... at least. And in my city these cans cost in the region of $20 per! And for that price you've still not stripped the rust off! At least $80 on, and still you have not applied a clear coat!


If I believed in destiny, I'd say that it was smiling at you. Keep going the way you are ... carefully ... and you'll end up with the bike that you and others will love to pieces.

As for decals: I did a lot of research on BF and elsewhere about this subject. The thing to do: avoid decals that are subject to fading under UV light. Apparently the dyes/inks on many reproductions are not as resilient as on others.

'White' is a problem for amateurs to produce because common printers AFAIK can't produce it. From what I have been able to find out, only an industrial sort of lithography can supply an indelible product. That does not mean that it takes Mitsubishi Heavy Industries to produce a good decal. But, it may mean that some dude on eBay offering this or that could send you something that looks good when it arrives, but in three summers of baking in the UV, it may not be what you really want to look at.

The Vitus decal I want is virtualy unobtainable. I'm thinking of taking it to a young graphics painter I know here in Sendai who does custom motorcycles and getting him to just script Vitus in any classic looking script he feels comfortable to perform. I've seen his work, and he is brilliant although exceedingly modest. It would be indelible white on back anodize. Purists (as much as I respect them) are probably vomiting as they read this But again, IMO, sign painters, although a vanishing breed of artisans, I do not think should be dismissed. Years ago I employed some of these guys to sign-paint taxi cab logos. Their skills were astonishing! Perhaps only a few are left around the country. But a good one .... well let's leave it there except to say that some classic bicycles were presented with hand-painted logos way back in the days. (Please don't ask me which ones Best ... Lenton58/Lorne

Bikedued

velocals.com ,,,,BD

Lenton58 

Thanks Dued! Saiko kara honto ni daroo! Maybe nothing for my Vitus, but thanks for the heads up! ... Lenton in Sendai

jamesss

Y'all think I should put TREK logo on seat tube?

Anybody order original decals from England?

Lenton58 

Well, AFAIK, on Vintage road bikes the 'TREK' logo goes on the down tube — mine being positioned about 8" down from the DT shifters. The model usually appears on the top tube somewhat near the head tube. On many mid 80's road racers, 'USA' appears just beneath the top lug on the seat tube on either side of the tube. Head badges varied with the times. There are tons of pics around the net as well as here on BF. Don't forget the Vintage Trek site which has many of the old catalogs in pdf for download.

Of course, it's your machine. I'm just trying to dial you into the way I remember Trek itself doing the originals. As for your exact model, I don't know. Was 'TREK' really on the seat tube? If it were me, I'd be inclined to put the main logo where it appeared on the original build. So if it was on the seat tube — I'd say go for it!

gomango

Here is my 1977 (?) Trek TX700 with proper decal placement. I would really seek out replacement decals or have them made just for your beautiful bike. Your bike restoration project is going so well, decal sets will finish it off properly. imho

I have a whole set of pictures of my own Trek project I'll post soon, and I must say you guys have inspired me!

Lenton58 

I definitely stand corrected.

jamesss

_DSC0005.jpg:d

Bikedued

Rockin bike!! NICE job man!,,,,BD

gomango

Looks great.

jamesss

Thanks Bike Forums!

gomango

Thank you for sharing the process, bike, your ideas, and time.

I've really enjoyed the show.

You should be very proud of your "new" old Trek.

Really super work.

stausty

Great job on the restoration. You really brought that bike around. Makes me even more excited about the '79 trek I picked up this week and how it's going to end up coming together.

Bikedued

No one mentioned it yet, that I have read anyway. It hit me how close the appearance of powdercoat is, to Imron paint that Trek used back then. The metallic
has the same type of suspended structuring. I think it looks like Imron in a lot of ways, so it really gives the frame an original look IMHO!,,,,BD

Just hit that rear brake hanger with a brass brush already, hehe.. Or #0000 steel wool

poprad

Gorgeous bike...Kermit the Frame? That powder looks great, doesn't hide the lugwork at all. They really did it up well for you. Congrats on a beautiful rebuild!

noglider 

Good paint work and good photographic work, too!