misaligned fork - WWYD?
#1
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misaligned fork - WWYD?
I've been getting a weird unstable feeling, especially tracking, on my 62cm Ciöcc. I just gave a look and yikes, the front wheel is way off center. Checked a couple of wheels to be sure it's not a dishing or axle spacing issue. Misaligned.
Now, the fork itself is already pretty beat. Matching dings on the backs of the blades (prev. owner), shoddy chrome. Would you pay to have the fork realigned ($100+?) or start hunting for a replacement fork. I can't imagine finding a chromed Columbus sloping crown fork with a lonnnng steerer tube will be easy or reasonably priced.
What would you do?
Now, the fork itself is already pretty beat. Matching dings on the backs of the blades (prev. owner), shoddy chrome. Would you pay to have the fork realigned ($100+?) or start hunting for a replacement fork. I can't imagine finding a chromed Columbus sloping crown fork with a lonnnng steerer tube will be easy or reasonably priced.
What would you do?
#2
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Find someone to do the work at a reasonable price. If you were local I'd do it for $25 and feel a little guilty for charging that much.
#3
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Can I cold-set it the same as rear spacing? I've done the Sheldon 2x4 method a couple times before.
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I mailed mine to southwestframeworks last week. They charge $25 + return shipping.
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#5
Dropped
Are you sure the fork is misaligned, or is the wheel simply sitting in the ends off vertical? I have a fork with one end slightly longer than the other, so I have to position the axle slightly down on one side (not flush in the cradle of the end) to keep the wheel from skewing. I had the alignment checked by an LBS owner with experience building frames, and he said sometimes one of the fork legs is longer than the other, or it's been brazed in the crown slightly lower or one of the ends has been brazed slightly lower than the other.
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I paid a shop with the fork alignment tool locally $30 to do it... some form members like cudak888 even own this tool.
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If the steerer tube or crown is out of whack its never going to be right. My advice (I've straightened hundreds of forks) is to drop it off at a reputable shop that has the proper fork jig. If they dont have the jig they shouldnt be getting near it.
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Junkyard - it was definitely sitting flush in the drops, as I've made that mistake several times previous. I suppose if I get a diagnosis from the pros that one side is gimpy or something, I'll have to replace it.
The thing that makes me think it might be an adjustment is that there are matching kinks on the backside upper portion of the blades, an inch or 2 below the crown. Maybe got banged around at some point before I got it.
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I have done this a few times - be careful!!!
It is good to have access to a fork gauge and someone who knows how to use it, and more importantly, when not to use it.
I straightened out the fork blades of my PX10 using a fork gauge to check my work. I never once attempted to bend or stress a weld(braze/silver solder) joint.
In a nut shell and do not try this at home...
Set the forks up in the gauge.
PX10_MRB_ForkAlignSide_1.jpg
Set the arms flush with the crown...
PX10_MRB_ForkAlign_6.jpg
then check any difference in measurements, at various points along the length of the fork blades...
PX10_MRB_ForkAlign_2.jpg
and between the ends of the gauge rod "T" for both different clearance and center.
PX10_MRB_ForkAlign_1.jpg
Cold set as required, being careful to not go too far, check and repeat until the end result measures and looks good.
PX10_MRB_ForkWheel_1.jpg
And the wheel sits where it is supposed to.
Or pay someone who knows how to do this for you. And might I add that seeking a particular fork in a particular size is a not so rewarding endeavor.
Hope this is a help.
I straightened out the fork blades of my PX10 using a fork gauge to check my work. I never once attempted to bend or stress a weld(braze/silver solder) joint.
In a nut shell and do not try this at home...
Set the forks up in the gauge.
PX10_MRB_ForkAlignSide_1.jpg
Set the arms flush with the crown...
PX10_MRB_ForkAlign_6.jpg
then check any difference in measurements, at various points along the length of the fork blades...
PX10_MRB_ForkAlign_2.jpg
and between the ends of the gauge rod "T" for both different clearance and center.
PX10_MRB_ForkAlign_1.jpg
Cold set as required, being careful to not go too far, check and repeat until the end result measures and looks good.
PX10_MRB_ForkWheel_1.jpg
And the wheel sits where it is supposed to.
Or pay someone who knows how to do this for you. And might I add that seeking a particular fork in a particular size is a not so rewarding endeavor.
Hope this is a help.
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Are you sure the fork is misaligned, or is the wheel simply sitting in the ends off vertical? I have a fork with one end slightly longer than the other, so I have to position the axle slightly down on one side (not flush in the cradle of the end) to keep the wheel from skewing. I had the alignment checked by an LBS owner with experience building frames, and he said sometimes one of the fork legs is longer than the other, or it's been brazed in the crown slightly lower or one of the ends has been brazed slightly lower than the other.
#13
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I'll bump this with a pic, just because this fork still has some mystery for me in all its imperfections. Here's a clear one of the backside dings. Maybe from rough loading on a rack?
#14
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That's ugly. Almost looks like it was pryed on with a bar. Maybe someone trying take off a U-Lock?
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#16
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What do you think of this. I might be waiting a while for Columbus. You think the Tange is decent quality?
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What do you think of this. I might be waiting a while for Columbus. You think the Tange is decent quality?
-Kurt
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Jesse,
The Tange fork is probably just as good as the Columbus but there's an issue with the Tange, its chromed all the way to the top. The chrome will need to be buzzed off with a sander before it can be cut down and rethreaded. You''ll have $130+ into it by the time your done.
The Tange fork is probably just as good as the Columbus but there's an issue with the Tange, its chromed all the way to the top. The chrome will need to be buzzed off with a sander before it can be cut down and rethreaded. You''ll have $130+ into it by the time your done.
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Jesse,
The Tange fork is probably just as good as the Columbus but there's an issue with the Tange, its chromed all the way to the top. The chrome will need to be buzzed off with a sander before it can be cut down and rethreaded. You''ll have $130+ into it by the time your done.
The Tange fork is probably just as good as the Columbus but there's an issue with the Tange, its chromed all the way to the top. The chrome will need to be buzzed off with a sander before it can be cut down and rethreaded. You''ll have $130+ into it by the time your done.
Why would the chrome have to be buzzed off, Jim? Does it add to much thickness to the threads making it impossible to get the headset on there - if so, why would they chrome the whole thing?
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Chrome is an extremely hard metal and dulls cutting tools like dies and taps very quickly. Nothing more, nothing less. They chrome the entire fork because its easier.
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+1 I took my Casati to a local shop and they charged me a four pack of Surly. They thought the Casati was cool, so we sat around all afternoon talking about steel bikes. Had to walk home.
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I see. But, if this steerer tube turned out to be the length I need without having to be cut down at all, and it's already threaded, then the chrome wouldn't be an issue?
#23
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I've had high quality steel forks re-aligned and otherwise repaired in the past, no problems, and cheaper than getting a new fork. That's what I'd do, have it repaired.
#24
Disraeli Gears
Well, as it stands this particular fork might be too short for me (barely), if indeed the steerer measure is to the bottom of the tube and not to the top of the race seat. (62cm frame with a 7 7/8" head tube)
Why would the chrome have to be buzzed off, Jim? Does it add to much thickness to the threads making it impossible to get the headset on there - if so, why would they chrome the whole thing?
Why would the chrome have to be buzzed off, Jim? Does it add to much thickness to the threads making it impossible to get the headset on there - if so, why would they chrome the whole thing?