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  1. #3551
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Any oil lubricated bearing assembly will run exceptionally well if it stays lubed, the oil that escapes acts to flush contaminants from the bearing assembly.

    Grease is oil mixed with what is usually a soapy carrier and although it stays put, it also traps contaminants which can increase wear.

  2. #3552
    Senior Member _dylan's Avatar
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    By the way, I know this should be posted in the for sale section, but if anyone is looking to sell their 3-speed (especially a matching mens/womens set) PM me! I want so bad, but I just haven't had any luck in my searches--patience is a virtue, but I'm not the kind of guy to sit around and wait without at least trying. So if you're trying to sell, let me know!! Thanks!
    Learn to ride a bicycle. You will not regret it if you live. -Mark Twain

  3. #3553
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    Quote Originally Posted by _dylan View Post
    Every time I view this thread I get sufficiently jealous.



    Man, I want an English 3-speed.
    Be warned, you cannot stop with one.

    /voice of experience

  4. #3554
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    Not an English 3 speed but my new Worksman does sport a Sturmey Archer AWC English built 3 speed hub. Really enjoying this one these days

  5. #3555
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velognome View Post
    The cap on the bottle of 30w motor oil I used I'd quess it was about a teaspoon.



    Ditto! I've got a 21" Hercules with about 6" of seat post showing. I'm 6'2" and usually ride a 25" but short seat tube is not a problem. More the issue is the Top Tube.
    Got it on the cap, thanks.

    Yeah, seat tubes are not the problem unless you are wayyy outside the human body size norms. It's those danged knees on the handgrips that are the problem.

  6. #3556
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nerdy Norm View Post
    I bought what appear to be the same ones from an EBay seller in Thailand. He also has them in white. The moulding was a little rough where they had been pressed out, but a few seconds with a craft knife fixed it.
    I got a black one from him. It's pretty decent but agree that you'd want your craft knife handy or do as I did - fingernail it!

  7. #3557
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nerdy Norm View Post
    The reflector on my 1949 Sports is just under 5cm across. I don't have the reflectors I bought from Thailand (same seller you linked to) to hand, but I remember comparing them when they arrived, and being happy that they were close enough. The only issues were the slightly rough moulding press-outs on the serrated edges (easily remedied, as mentioned above) and the fact that there was no securing nut supplied (annoying, but not a biggie).
    The black one I got from him did indeed have a securing nut and I tried very hard, using my long-handled curved-nose needle nose pliers to install the puppy with the wheel on the bike but no go; had to dangle the wheel on the chain and secure it with the wheel outta the way. I was afraid that the securing bolt would be too long and rub the tire but it didn't and that's a plus. IMO, the repop manufacturer did a good job on the length of that bolt; --long enough to be reasonably flexible in mounting and short enough not to cause tire rub.

  8. #3558
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    Okay Reflector size report....

    Apparently Raleigh used several different sizes and brands of reflectors over the years. The 3 I have on hand measure out to: 3.8cm/4.4cm that is the black one from Yellow Jersey, it has a plastic base rather than rubber. I believe that is the same size as what Raleigh was using back in the 50's. 4.0cm/5.0cm this is a white rubber housing and is on a 1972 Raleigh Superbe, it is the same as the ones on 1971 Colt and 1970 Sports Standard. 6.0cm/6.8cm white rubber housing, this one is on my bride's 1973 Colt. I will try and get pictures eventually.

    Aaron
    Hey Aaron, the black one from the guy in Thailand came a couple of days ago and I put it on my '74 LTD-3 today. I don't think it's "correct" for that year but it looks fine to me. Apparently Raleigh went from the smaller reflector some time after 1970, as my wife's '72 Sports has the larger reflector and the 1970 raleigh-built BSA I got last weekend has the smaller one.

    Anyway, FWIW, in the pic below, left to right:

    1970 BSA with original white reflector, 48.32 mm, BSA Fairylites on lens; nothing on housing
    1974 Raleigh LTD-3 with reproduction reflector, 48.08 mm, nothing on lens, TTC on housing
    1972 Raleigh Sports with original white reflector, 63.04 mm, Lucas on lens, Sturmey Archer on housing

    One final niggling point....

    Viewing the two reflectors on the left in the pic; the original BSA reflector has a slightly larger lens than the reproduction reflector. Again, probably nothing that would even be noticed except by English 3-speed cognoscenti....

    ....GEDC0650.jpg

  9. #3559
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    Does anybody use these anchors on their 3 speed? I have had a terrible time with the shifter cable slipping through the bolt when I am peddling uphill. Yesterday, the cable slipped and put me in neutral while I was standing up peddling. After my trip over the handlebars, I received some nice road rash for my efforts.

    Any tips for getting the cable to stay put?

    ZHSL746.JPG

  10. #3560
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    Rode my Sports through the dirt... roads.

    In reality I walked down the twisty steep downhill path to the surprisingly well maintained riverbank. The Fibrax brake shoes on dusty steel rims don't really brake all that well, not even when the bike was being walked. I'm getting some salmon Kool Stops to improve the braking for now.

    I'm looking into eventually getting a BF drum brake for the front, and an AB3 for the rear. Does anyone know where to find an AB3? Its a steel shell 3 speed with a 90mm drum brake. I'm looking for the steel shell hubs to go with a period correct look (laced to hi polished CR-18s).

    The 42" low gear of the AW hub managed to crawl up the various steep hills, paved and unpaved. Life could have been easier with an additional lower gear; perhaps one of the new 5 speeds with the same 48/22 gearing would do (the 5 speed's top gear is useless in this hill country unless I also swap the chainring for a 40 tooth).

  11. #3561
    Get off my lawn! Velognome's Avatar
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    Any tips for getting the cable to stay put?
    Crank it tight with two wrenches? I've never had one slip, thinking maybe the Hub was working but the adjustment wasn't spot on from the get go? In High, the cable should be "almost" slack, but with just the slightest tension. If not, you can be in gear but just on the edge, a good bump can knock you out into neutral....it's just a terrible sound and feeling when a hub lets go like that. Hope your alright?

  12. #3562
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    Quote Originally Posted by blilrat View Post
    Does anybody use these anchors on their 3 speed? I have had a terrible time with the shifter cable slipping through the bolt when I am peddling uphill. Yesterday, the cable slipped and put me in neutral while I was standing up peddling. After my trip over the handlebars, I received some nice road rash for my efforts.

    Any tips for getting the cable to stay put?

    ZHSL746.JPG
    Agree with Velognome about "two-wrenching" it. There was one of these anchors on an old Sears [AMF] that I restored and when it was torqued down I am sure it wasn't going to slip one iota. You sure it wasn't the gear slippage Velognome alludes to? Sheldon covers that issue pretty well here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-...tml#adjustment

  13. #3563
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blilrat View Post
    Does anybody use these anchors on their 3 speed? I have had a terrible time with the shifter cable slipping through the bolt when I am peddling uphill. Yesterday, the cable slipped and put me in neutral while I was standing up peddling. After my trip over the handlebars, I received some nice road rash for my efforts.

    Any tips for getting the cable to stay put?

    ZHSL746.JPG
    Secure the pinch bolt with two wrenches, one is 7mm and the other is an 8mm and it is best to use a box end and be conservative with the amount of force you apply.

  14. #3564
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
    Secure the pinch bolt with two wrenches, one is 7mm and the other is an 8mm and it is best to use a box end and be conservative with the amount of force you apply.
    Yeah, for anyone just getting into all of this wrenching; here's a tip...

    I use an earlier version of this set and it hasn't let me down. With the molded carry case you're pretty much always gonna have the wrench you need. Northern discounts it heavily from time to time.

    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7233_200327233

    34 pc. wrench set.jpg

  15. #3565
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    I'm pretty sure the cable slipped, I can see the flat spot on the cable from where the bolt clamps down and I get a lot of slack in the cable. I used two wrenches again to tighten it and adjusted the cable, we'll see what happens.

    Funny thing is, I never had this problem until I flipped the bars to give it more of a path racer look. Maybe I need to slow down and take it easy, this bike was never meant to be a racer, but it sure is fun flying around on a 50+ yr old bike.

  16. #3566
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    Quote Originally Posted by blilrat View Post
    I'm pretty sure the cable slipped, I can see the flat spot on the cable from where the bolt clamps down and I get a lot of slack in the cable. I used two wrenches again to tighten it and adjusted the cable, we'll see what happens.

    Funny thing is, I never had this problem until I flipped the bars to give it more of a path racer look. Maybe I need to slow down and take it easy, this bike was never meant to be a racer, but it sure is fun flying around on a 50+ yr old bike.
    I still can't see how that pinch system could mess up - unless the bolt threads are stripped. Are you able to torque it down?

  17. #3567
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    Hey I was wondering if anyone has any first-hand experience with the Shimano 3-speed Automatic Coasting hub?

    See: http://www.raleigh-canada.ca/bikes/coasting.html and http://www.parktool.com/blog/calvins...oasting-system

    .
    RALEIGH SHIMANO 3 speed automatic.jpgSHIMANO 3 speed automatic adjustment.jpg

  18. #3568
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    I still can't see how that pinch system could mess up - unless the bolt threads are stripped. Are you able to torque it down?
    I agree it seems strange. If it happens again, I'll replace the anchor since this doesn't seem to be a common problem and it's a cheap part.

  19. #3569
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    Hey I was wondering if anyone has any first-hand experience with the Shimano 3-speed Automatic Coasting hub?

    See: http://www.raleigh-canada.ca/bikes/coasting.html and http://www.parktool.com/blog/calvins...oasting-system

    .
    What do you want to know? I have one brand new that eventually, maybe, I might get around to installing on a folding full sized MTB frame I have.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
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    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  20. #3570
    Senior Member BRAZUCA's Avatar
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    Hello folks, I need to replace the nut that holds the seat post on my 1974 DL-1. I think the previous owner used the wrong nut (thread) on the original bolt, not sure. Do you know what is the correct bolt and thread ? In case the bolt is damaged as well, where can I buy a replacement? Do you think I would find original ones? Pics below. Thank you for any comment/suggestion.


    2011 Surly Long Haul Trucker
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  21. #3571
    Senior Member Nerdy Norm's Avatar
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    You can buy a new nut and bolt from Old Bike Trader.
    - Nick (AKA Nerdy Norm, don't ask!)

    1949 Raleigh Sports (keeping original)
    1946 Raleigh Sports (too tatty, plan to "modernise")
    early 50s Raleigh Sports frame (path-racer build)
    early 40s Raleigh Superbe frame (what to do?)

  22. #3572
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Buy a new one, FWIW I don't think yours is correct. My DL-1 has a plain old nut and bolt set with washers on both sides. Nothing special or fancy, looks like a 1/4" coarse thread about 1.5" long.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  23. #3573
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    I still can't see how that pinch system could mess up - unless the bolt threads are stripped. Are you able to torque it down?
    Insufficient torque can cause failure and I have found that the OEM cable and clamps are much better than the generic ones that are available.

  24. #3574
    Senior Member brianinc-ville's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blilrat View Post
    I'm pretty sure the cable slipped, I can see the flat spot on the cable from where the bolt clamps down and I get a lot of slack in the cable. I used two wrenches again to tighten it and adjusted the cable, we'll see what happens.

    Funny thing is, I never had this problem until I flipped the bars to give it more of a path racer look. Maybe I need to slow down and take it easy, this bike was never meant to be a racer, but it sure is fun flying around on a 50+ yr old bike.
    I agree that this should not happen -- but just in case, have you tried degreasing both the clamp and the cable, and roughing up the clamp surface a tiny bit with a file?

  25. #3575
    Senior Member BRAZUCA's Avatar
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    Thanks Aaron. I thought it was original. Anyway, I will see if I can find and buy it like yours is set-up.

    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    Buy a new one, FWIW I don't think yours is correct. My DL-1 has a plain old nut and bolt set with washers on both sides. Nothing special or fancy, looks like a 1/4" coarse thread about 1.5" long.

    Aaron
    2011 Surly Long Haul Trucker
    "Steel is Real"

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