debit

Be warned, you cannot stop with one.

/voice of experience

ebrandwein

Not an English 3 speed but my new Worksman does sport a Sturmey Archer AWC English built 3 speed hub. Really enjoying this one these days

PalmettoUpstate 

Got it on the cap, thanks.

Yeah, seat tubes are not the problem unless you are wayyy outside the human body size norms. It's those danged knees on the handgrips that are the problem.

PalmettoUpstate 

I got a black one from him. It's pretty decent but agree that you'd want your craft knife handy or do as I did - fingernail it!

PalmettoUpstate 

The black one I got from him did indeed have a securing nut and I tried very hard, using my long-handled curved-nose needle nose pliers to install the puppy with the wheel on the bike but no go; had to dangle the wheel on the chain and secure it with the wheel outta the way. I was afraid that the securing bolt would be too long and rub the tire but it didn't and that's a plus. IMO, the repop manufacturer did a good job on the length of that bolt; --long enough to be reasonably flexible in mounting and short enough not to cause tire rub.

PalmettoUpstate 

Hey Aaron, the black one from the guy in Thailand came a couple of days ago and I put it on my '74 LTD-3 today. I don't think it's "correct" for that year but it looks fine to me. Apparently Raleigh went from the smaller reflector some time after 1970, as my wife's '72 Sports has the larger reflector and the 1970 raleigh-built BSA I got last weekend has the smaller one.

Anyway, FWIW, in the pic below, left to right:

1970 BSA with original white reflector, 48.32 mm, BSA Fairylites on lens; nothing on housing
1974 Raleigh LTD-3 with reproduction reflector, 48.08 mm, nothing on lens, TTC on housing
1972 Raleigh Sports with original white reflector, 63.04 mm, Lucas on lens, Sturmey Archer on housing

One final niggling point....

Viewing the two reflectors on the left in the pic; the original BSA reflector has a slightly larger lens than the reproduction reflector. Again, probably nothing that would even be noticed except by English 3-speed cognoscenti....

....

blilrat

Does anybody use these anchors on their 3 speed? I have had a terrible time with the shifter cable slipping through the bolt when I am peddling uphill. Yesterday, the cable slipped and put me in neutral while I was standing up peddling. After my trip over the handlebars, I received some nice road rash for my efforts.

Any tips for getting the cable to stay put?

jrecoi

Rode my Sports through the dirt... roads.

In reality I walked down the twisty steep downhill path to the surprisingly well maintained riverbank. The Fibrax brake shoes on dusty steel rims don't really brake all that well, not even when the bike was being walked. I'm getting some salmon Kool Stops to improve the braking for now.

I'm looking into eventually getting a BF drum brake for the front, and an AB3 for the rear. Does anyone know where to find an AB3? Its a steel shell 3 speed with a 90mm drum brake. I'm looking for the steel shell hubs to go with a period correct look (laced to hi polished CR-18s).

The 42" low gear of the AW hub managed to crawl up the various steep hills, paved and unpaved. Life could have been easier with an additional lower gear; perhaps one of the new 5 speeds with the same 48/22 gearing would do (the 5 speed's top gear is useless in this hill country unless I also swap the chainring for a 40 tooth).

Velognome 

Crank it tight with two wrenches? I've never had one slip, thinking maybe the Hub was working but the adjustment wasn't spot on from the get go? In High, the cable should be "almost" slack, but with just the slightest tension. If not, you can be in gear but just on the edge, a good bump can knock you out into neutral....it's just a terrible sound and feeling when a hub lets go like that. Hope your alright?

PalmettoUpstate 

Agree with Velognome about "two-wrenching" it. There was one of these anchors on an old Sears [AMF] that I restored and when it was torqued down I am sure it wasn't going to slip one iota. You sure it wasn't the gear slippage Velognome alludes to? Sheldon covers that issue pretty well here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-...tml#adjustment

Sixty Fiver

Secure the pinch bolt with two wrenches, one is 7mm and the other is an 8mm and it is best to use a box end and be conservative with the amount of force you apply.

PalmettoUpstate 

Yeah, for anyone just getting into all of this wrenching; here's a tip...

I use an earlier version of this set and it hasn't let me down. With the molded carry case you're pretty much always gonna have the wrench you need. Northern discounts it heavily from time to time.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7233_200327233

blilrat

I'm pretty sure the cable slipped, I can see the flat spot on the cable from where the bolt clamps down and I get a lot of slack in the cable. I used two wrenches again to tighten it and adjusted the cable, we'll see what happens.

Funny thing is, I never had this problem until I flipped the bars to give it more of a path racer look. Maybe I need to slow down and take it easy, this bike was never meant to be a racer, but it sure is fun flying around on a 50+ yr old bike.

PalmettoUpstate 

I still can't see how that pinch system could mess up - unless the bolt threads are stripped. Are you able to torque it down?

PalmettoUpstate 

Hey I was wondering if anyone has any first-hand experience with the Shimano 3-speed Automatic Coasting hub?

See: https://www.raleigh-canada.ca/bikes/coasting.html and https://www.parktool.com/blog/calvins...oasting-system

.

blilrat

I agree it seems strange. If it happens again, I'll replace the anchor since this doesn't seem to be a common problem and it's a cheap part.

wahoonc

What do you want to know? I have one brand new that eventually, maybe, I might get around to installing on a folding full sized MTB frame I have.

Aaron

BRAZUCA

Hello folks, I need to replace the nut that holds the seat post on my 1974 DL-1. I think the previous owner used the wrong nut (thread) on the original bolt, not sure. Do you know what is the correct bolt and thread ? In case the bolt is damaged as well, where can I buy a replacement? Do you think I would find original ones? Pics below. Thank you for any comment/suggestion.

Nerdy Norm

You can buy a new nut and bolt from Old Bike Trader.

wahoonc

Buy a new one, FWIW I don't think yours is correct. My DL-1 has a plain old nut and bolt set with washers on both sides. Nothing special or fancy, looks like a 1/4" coarse thread about 1.5" long.

Aaron

Sixty Fiver

Insufficient torque can cause failure and I have found that the OEM cable and clamps are much better than the generic ones that are available.

brianinc-ville

I agree that this should not happen -- but just in case, have you tried degreasing both the clamp and the cable, and roughing up the clamp surface a tiny bit with a file?

BRAZUCA

Thanks Aaron. I thought it was original. Anyway, I will see if I can find and buy it like yours is set-up.

BRAZUCA

I found this bolt and nut on e-bay, it says it is from a Raleigh Sports 1971. Is this the correct one for a DL-1 Tourist. Aaron, I believe yours have nuts and spacers on both sides right? I added it to my watch list for now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/390469093904...84.m1423.l2649

Sixty Fiver

Any decent shop would be able to supply a bolt like this for about a dollar. There should be a washer behind the bolt while the bolt head is tabbed and needs no washer.