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  1. #3926
    accidental 3 speed geek yellowbarber's Avatar
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    I've had the best luck by checking eBay UK every few days. Keep looking, it'll turn up

    Quote Originally Posted by bmc5733946 View Post
    Hello all. I'm sort of new, been lurking a while. Not capable of posting pics at present. Spurred by this thread I found a matched man's and a ladie's set of Raleigh Superbes. I've been looking for the black fluted cable housing that these bikes came with, with no luck. Any ideas?
    Brian
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  2. #3927
    Member w1xq's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    Nice. Are those updated rims?
    Pametto, no they are the original Sturmy Archer rims.
    1971 Royal Scot, 1970 Hercules, 1971 Triumph, 1965 Foremost

  3. #3928
    Member w1xq's Avatar
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    A short 12 mile ride through the farmlands today!

    1971 Royal Scot, 1970 Hercules, 1971 Triumph, 1965 Foremost

  4. #3929
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    Quote Originally Posted by w1xq View Post
    Pametto, no they are the original Sturmy Archer rims.
    They look to have cleaned up nicely. Maybe you're missing the original SA [or Raleigh] rear reflector? You know where to get the black ones right? [Yellow Jersey] Also, I have seen the white ones in that smaller size on eBay, along with the black ones. I bought one of the black ones for my early 70's LTD3 and while that bike came OEM with the larger diameter white reflector, I like the way the black one looks on the [black] bike.

  5. #3930
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    Quote Originally Posted by graywolf View Post
    Actually, the classic looking Taiwanese made 12v generator light works pretty well and looks retro enough that only and expert is going to tell the difference. I seem to remember buying it from bikeworld.com. Yep, here is the link Bullet Light. The 12v 6w light is brighter than 6v 3w ones. I believe they sell a very similar battery operated light. However, I like the generator light because it is always ready to be used (no dead batteries), and when it is not being used there is no drag
    Do you know if the bulb can and/or should be upgraded to a LED? Or, alternatively, is there someone out there making this general setup but utilising LED and incorporating a lower friction generator?


    Seems to me that would be a no-brainer as you correctly stated: "I like the generator light because it is always ready to be used (no dead batteries), and when it is not being used there is no drag."

  6. #3931
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    Do you know if the bulb can and/or should be upgraded to a LED? Or, alternatively, is there someone out there making this general setup but utilising LED and incorporating a lower friction generator?


    Seems to me that would be a no-brainer as you correctly stated: "I like the generator light because it is always ready to be used (no dead batteries), and when it is not being used there is no drag."
    The light uses a miniature screw thread 12v flashlight bulb. There is a spare inside the light housing. However those may become difficult to find fairly soon.

    You could use a LED conversion bulb; however the the generator is not really a generator (DC), it is an alternator (AC). That means you would have to put in a module to convert the output to DC and regulate the voltage. Along with that you might as well add a tiny rechargeable battery pack so the lights will stay on when stopped. Unless you are good at DIY electronics, that is going to push the cost of the light into the $100+ range.

    It would be easier to convert a battery light because it is running on DC to start with. Then all you would need is a LED replacement bulb ($5-25 depending on the light output your want).
    Graywolf--
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    Longing for a stately old roadster

  7. #3932
    Schwinnasaur Schwinnsta's Avatar
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    I used one these LED bulbs on my DL-1. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~stein...erchandise.htm

    It works well. I replaced the tail light bulb with a red LED light 12 Volt for an auto dash board that has a wedge base.

  8. #3933
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwinnsta View Post
    I used one these LED bulbs on my DL-1. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~stein...erchandise.htm

    It works well. I replaced the tail light bulb with a red LED light 12 Volt for an auto dash board that has a wedge base.
    Same thing here. The lights do strobe a bit at low speeds but once up to speed the effect is all but gone.

    Reflectalite in the UK has LED conversion bulbs as well as a bridge rectifier that can be placed across the terminals of the dynohub.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  9. #3934
    Senior Member clasher's Avatar
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    I've snagged some e10 LEDs off ebay and they worked really well for a friend. The price can't be beat, even though they lack a standlight I still think it's a huge upgrade over the stock bulbs. I put 'em on any bike I work on for friends or to flip. I haven't seen flange style bulbs this cheap though.

  10. #3935
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    S-A history question/survey here:

    Does anyone know for certain when the no-in-between-gear version of the AW replaced the earlier version - when the old version was not offered any longer? I have see Sheldon's site which says 'sometime around 1990' and I have seen on the forums here that S-A pioneered such a design (NIG) for Columbia in, alternately, the 1970s or 1984. But that's a lot of room in there, plus I can't tell whether the old design persisted after any given date.

    I am thinking about picking up a 1987 AW solely because it may be the newer design. Anyone know for certain? If so, the info could I think be helpful to a number of folks. If not, I can snag this hub, open it and report back to offer at least one data point, hammer and punch willing...

    Also (whispering)... does anyone have any tips or experience re: brazing two or three cogs together for a cyclo-type adaptation? (6 or 9 speeds, but my heart is in the right place I think)

    Thanks!

  11. #3936
    accidental 3 speed geek yellowbarber's Avatar
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    You shouldn't have to braze the sprockets together. Just take out all the spacers between the lockring and the driver and stack them in the appropriate order.
    Quote Originally Posted by Super.bee View Post

    Also (whispering)... does anyone have any tips or experience re: brazing two or three cogs together for a cyclo-type adaptation? (6 or 9 speeds, but my heart is in the right place I think)

    Thanks!
    "If dogs arenít supposed to eat dental floss out of the trash, why did they make it mint flavored?"
    - Brian Griffin

  12. #3937
    Senior Member jonwvara's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yellowbarber View Post
    You shouldn't have to braze the sprockets together. Just take out all the spacers between the lockring and the driver and stack them in the appropriate order.
    You can easily do that with two (my Sprite has 24 and 28 cogs on an AW, with a 52 in front), although you will likely need to exchange the original axle for a longer one. I'm dubious about three cogs, though--I suspect you would have to braze the outermost (smallest) cog in place for that to work.
    JV
    "Progress might have been all right once, but it has gone on too long."
    --Ogden Nash

  13. #3938
    accidental 3 speed geek yellowbarber's Avatar
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    nevermind, don't know what I'm talking about.
    Here's some pics from a '62 convertible with a cyclo setup that I haven't disassembled yet - I just assumed that there are no spacers between the sprockets, but apparently, there are - plus they appear to be slightly different that the single cogs we put on our garden variety AWs.
    Attachment 288883
    Attachment 288884
    "If dogs arenít supposed to eat dental floss out of the trash, why did they make it mint flavored?"
    - Brian Griffin

  14. #3939
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Pictures no workie.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  15. #3940
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwinnsta View Post
    I used one these LED bulbs on my DL-1. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~stein...erchandise.htm

    It works well. I replaced the tail light bulb with a red LED light 12 Volt for an auto dash board that has a wedge base.
    Still trying to figure out this LED light stuff.

    Given your "handle" thought you might be interested in knowing that I picked up 2 Schwinn Speedsters in the last 10 or so days...

    ...a red '74 SA AW 3-speed and a yellow '73 single speed.

    Both filet-brazed and beautiful bikes.

  16. #3941
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    Quote Originally Posted by clasher View Post
    I've snagged some e10 LEDs off ebay and they worked really well for a friend. The price can't be beat, even though they lack a standlight I still think it's a huge upgrade over the stock bulbs. I put 'em on any bike I work on for friends or to flip. I haven't seen flange style bulbs this cheap though.
    Good info; many thanks!

  17. #3942
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonwvara View Post
    You can easily do that with two (my Sprite has 24 and 28 cogs on an AW, with a 52 in front), although you will likely need to exchange the original axle for a longer one.
    JV
    Wow, thanks, I never thought of that. Did you redish the wheel? I wonder if there's any pattern to which AW-equipped bikes had longer axles. I guess that's the reason for the various indicator rods. By the way that sounds like pretty great gearing.

    Quote Originally Posted by jonwvara View Post
    I'm dubious about three cogs, though--I suspect you would have to braze the outermost (smallest) cog in place for that to work.
    JV
    Best done by a framebuilder? Are we just talking brazing here, no mechanical interlocking of the cogs?

  18. #3943
    Senior Member oldroads's Avatar
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    Finally finished this '53:

    53ral.jpg
    Vinny - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles - OldRoads.com
    BUY/SELL forum (no fees) - Price Guides - 19 years of archives

  19. #3944
    Senior Member oldroads's Avatar
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    Finally finished this '53:

    53ral.jpg
    Vinny - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles - OldRoads.com
    BUY/SELL forum (no fees) - Price Guides - 19 years of archives

  20. #3945
    Senior Member auchencrow's Avatar
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    Nice, oldroads! (I have a '53 just like it, but yours looks minty compared to mine! )

    Quote Originally Posted by oldroads View Post
    Finally finished this '53:

    - Auchen

  21. #3946
    You gonna eat that? Doohickie's Avatar
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    I got my DL-1 back on the road this week with a wheel rebuild (thanks, Yellow Jersey in Madison, WI). It rides like a Cadillac.

    I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.



    Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."

  22. #3947
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doohickie View Post
    I got my DL-1 back on the road this week with a wheel rebuild (thanks, Yellow Jersey in Madison, WI). It rides like a Cadillac.

    Did you just send them the hub? I have one wheel that hops that I don't think I can work the hop out of it.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  23. #3948
    Senior Member loubapache's Avatar
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    WOW, these old roadsters are really nice. I grew up with copies of these (Forever and Flying Pigeon) and those were my transportations until I moved to this country. Always wanted one of these, even the copies.

    Thanks for the pic.

  24. #3949
    You gonna eat that? Doohickie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    Did you just send them the hub? I have one wheel that hops that I don't think I can work the hop out of it.

    Aaron
    Yes. Basically, for $100 per wheel (plus shipping), they will sell you a new rim, the spokes and assemble them all to a hub you send them. From TX to WI and back was 8 days total time. They will turn the wheel around in 24 hours after they get it.

    The one caveat I will issue is that they can only work with the materials they've got; in my case, one wheel (the rear) still has a little hop. I can't feel it when riding, but when I stop I can feel the pulse a bit in the brakes. On the front I can feel it too, but much less. There is a weld seem opposite the valve hole and there is nothing you can do about it; there's a little flat spot (and very limited supplies of these rims). It's the nature of rod brake bikes.

    Having said that, the new wheels, while not perfect, are SO much better than they were before the rebuild.

    Oh, and they used double butted spokes in the build.
    I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.



    Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."

  25. #3950
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doohickie View Post
    I got my DL-1 back on the road this week with a wheel rebuild (thanks, Yellow Jersey in Madison, WI). It rides like a Cadillac.

    Looks wonderful.

    Just a note on rebuilding old hubs with new spokes... The elbows are designed for wider flanges so spoke washers should be used to ensure that the spokes seat properly.

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