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Old 02-23-14, 09:44 AM   #5026
Amesja
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Niagara always has everything I want. What is more local than my front door?

The intranets are my LBS. Brown box right at my front door is as local as it gets.
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Old 02-23-14, 09:47 AM   #5027
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
There's a difference between Schwinn's 571mm bead seat diameter and Raleigh's 590mm bead seat diameter (650A) tires but tubes aren't so fussy. Any nominally 26" tube that's reasonably close to the tire width should work.
Uh, but you wouldn't really use a 559 tube in a 590 tire, would you? If I had to get rolling quickly, I would, but not normally.

Commando, of course, I don't know anything about the bike industry in your area, but in the US, most bike shops carry a huge variety of tube sizes, including sizes they rarely see. Here, tubes are the highest-markup item in the shop. They typically pay $2 wholesale and sell for $6 retail. I would think this is one reason they don't mind carrying that inventory.
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Old 02-23-14, 09:57 AM   #5028
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Uh, but you wouldn't really use a 559 tube in a 590 tire, would you? If I had to get rolling quickly, I would, but not normally.
Always. There should be far fewer tube sizes available in general, I think. It's so wasteful selling two new tubes to people upgrading from 23mm to 28mm tires or whatever, but that's how you make rent.

e: what I mentioned was a separate issue, I guess. a 26x1.5" tube is a lot better of a fit than a 23mm in anything bigger. You just never use 26x1 3/8 tubes for anything else useful than 3 speeds if you keep em around the shop. I generally would rather give out a 26x1.5 to someone anyway, so that if they had to buy themselves a new tube they would know that the more easily available tube works from reading the old one.

-in response to no glider below

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Old 02-23-14, 10:05 AM   #5029
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I've pushed and exceeded the width-stretching limit. I've put very skinny tubes in my 32mm tires and had them blow out from too much stretching. Unfortunately, your mileage will vary. I get more flats than most people.
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Old 02-24-14, 07:26 AM   #5030
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i may have found a junked DL-1 at the Coop this weekend well junked according to the people there, apperently a tree fell on it and bent the handlebars.. the rest of the frame is in really good shape, the rims and all the chrome bits are still really shiny, a lot better shape then the last DL-1 I had.. the catch? well it was sold when i got there to a kid who wanted the hubs... he said if i cut the hubs out, then i can have the rest... easy as pie.. now im pricing parts..

need fenders, spokes, front hub, and handlebars, plus all the consumables...
maybe next years project?
pics to come
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Old 02-27-14, 10:20 AM   #5031
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This thread needs to be a sticky...just sayin'.
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Old 03-02-14, 09:13 PM   #5032
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I've gotten four different pairs of old Weinmann brakes to try on my Raleigh build, and test-fitting them shows them all to work, give or take. My dumb question du jour is...

I've got two pairs of dual-pivot center-pulls, and two pairs of single-pivot side-pulls. What are the pros and cons of each? I understand that the dual-pivots brake better, but I see people griping about them as being undesirable in some way, so I'm wondering.
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Old 03-02-14, 09:29 PM   #5033
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What's wrong with the existing calipers? I like the steel single pivots that come on 3-speeds.
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Old 03-02-14, 10:04 PM   #5034
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What's wrong with the existing calipers? I like the steel single pivots that come on 3-speeds.
There were no existing calipers...this is a bare-frame build. I've tried Tektro 559s and 539s. The 559 were too long and the 539s didn't clear the tires.
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Old 03-02-14, 10:43 PM   #5035
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i may have found a junked DL-1 at the Coop this weekend well junked according to the people there, apperently a tree fell on it and bent the handlebars.. the rest of the frame is in really good shape, the rims and all the chrome bits are still really shiny, a lot better shape then the last DL-1 I had.. the catch? well it was sold when i got there to a kid who wanted the hubs... he said if i cut the hubs out, then i can have the rest... easy as pie.. now im pricing parts..

need fenders, spokes, front hub, and handlebars, plus all the consumables...
maybe next years project?
pics to come
@GordoTrek, How bent are the bars? I have a set of fenders from a Flying pigeon in decent shape.

The reason I ask is these bars drive me up (down actually) a wall.

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Old 03-03-14, 07:57 AM   #5036
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bars are pretty bent, i haven't dug into the frame yet ,but i was thinking i might be able to bend them back, probably not, considering a tree fell on them...
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Old 03-03-14, 08:50 AM   #5037
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I have a 1967 Raleigh three speed that I am refurbishing but I don't know if I should leave it the way it is or repaint what needs to be painted. Maybe I can get a few suggestions as to how to proceed with this. I have taken both hubs apart, cleaned and regreased everything. I took both rims that had a lot of rust spots and cleaned them so they look brand new. Now the front forks have to be taken off and regreased as there is a lot of resistance when you turn the handle bars. The tires abd tubes are in great shape. I tool the cranks off and cleaned them as well. Took apart the BB cleaned and regreased that also. So I guess all that I have left to do is figure out what to do with the paint. Sorry if the pictures turned out a touch blurry but I'm not a person that can take good pictures. AS you can see though that it has rust spots on the frame and chainguard.

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Old 03-03-14, 09:15 AM   #5038
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There were no existing calipers...this is a bare-frame build. I've tried Tektro 559s and 539s. The 559 were too long and the 539s didn't clear the tires.
I bought Tektro 800A sets for my Sportses. Not as nice as 559s, but still nice.
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Old 03-03-14, 09:20 AM   #5039
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Don't paint it. Touch it up. Or just clean up the rust spots and keep them oiled or waxed.
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Old 03-03-14, 09:58 AM   #5040
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I bought Tektro 800A sets for my Sportses. Not as nice as 559s, but still nice.
These are pretty long. I should've mentioned I was using 700c wheels.
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Old 03-03-14, 10:50 AM   #5041
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Don't paint it. Touch it up. Or just clean up the rust spots and keep them oiled or waxed.
What do you thin I should do with the chain guard. It looks pretty crappy.
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Old 03-03-14, 11:10 AM   #5042
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What do you thin I should do with the chain guard. It looks pretty crappy.
Give it an acid bath (or rub-down) and then decide.
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Old 03-03-14, 11:20 AM   #5043
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Give it an acid bath (or rub-down) and then decide.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-03-14, 11:45 AM   #5044
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OA(oxalic acid, aka deck stripper found at sherwin williams) did wonders on my DL-1 i sold last year
here are some before and after pics here
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Old 03-03-14, 01:01 PM   #5045
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OA(oxalic acid, aka deck stripper found at sherwin williams) did wonders on my DL-1 i sold last year
here are some before and after pics here
As usual the people here that work at Sherwin Williams are morons and haven't got a clue what I'm talking about. Do you know the name of the product you used. I have used Evapo-Rust to remove rust and it is FANTASTIC but it is expensive. It is even better than Metal Rescue.
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Old 03-03-14, 01:04 PM   #5046
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As usual the people here that work at Sherwin Williams are morons and haven't got a clue what I'm talking about. Do you know the name of the product you used. I have used Evapo-Rust to remove rust and it is FANTASTIC but it is expensive. It is even better than Metal Rescue.
I believe it is also known as wood bleach.

Disclaimer: I have not used this product, so I cannot say if or how well it works.
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Old 03-03-14, 01:18 PM   #5047
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When I learned of oxalic here on BF, someone here referred me to a seller on ebay. There are several chemical supply houses that sell it there. I just searched and found this link. Two pounds should be a lifetime supply for a bike nut, and it costs less than the same stuff in any other form.

Read the precautions before you even buy it. You may decide to use something less dangerous. I've handled it mistakenly, and it doesn't cause any pain, but it does cause permanent injury, so you should never handle it or inhale it.

There are milder acids. You might be happy with vinegar or lemon juice. Some are.
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Old 03-03-14, 01:34 PM   #5048
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When I learned of oxalic here on BF, someone here referred me to a seller on ebay. There are several chemical supply houses that sell it there. I just searched and found this link. Two pounds should be a lifetime supply for a bike nut, and it costs less than the same stuff in any other form.

Read the precautions before you even buy it. You may decide to use something less dangerous. I've handled it mistakenly, and it doesn't cause any pain, but it does cause permanent injury, so you should never handle it or inhale it.

There are milder acids. You might be happy with vinegar or lemon juice. Some are.
After you telling me about this stuff I think I'll stick with Evapo-rust, you can put your hands in that and you don't have to worry about nothing. The only thing with that is it has to be around 60 - 70 degrees for it to work and I run a condominium and only have access to a sprinkler room so it sure isn't that warm. But I suppose I could sneak it into the apartment in a container.
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Old 03-03-14, 01:56 PM   #5049
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yeah it can be toxic, but i used a very diluted mixture and it worked out nicely
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Old 03-04-14, 03:19 AM   #5050
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Thought you would all appreciate this...

We had a very nice fellow come into the co-op yesterday and he was there to donate the contents of his old bike shop which he closed down more than 20 years ago and ran for decades before that... he said he was 86 and was winding things down and clearing up some stuff.

There was lots of interesting 80's stuff like anodized BMX parts, saddles, and things like cloth tape and other goodies but he had tons of old CCM parts and spokes still in their factory wrappers and boxes and said this was just the tip of the iceberg.

We talked for a good long while and he looked over some of the old CCM's we have been working on and he said, "I don't suppose anyone works on Sturmey Archer hubs anymore"... and our conversation went on and on after that as we both have a deep appreciation for these things. We agreed that the forged CCm one piece cranks are nigh indestructible and he has a bunch of those too.

Will be connecting again to look over other things he has that he could not move himself like parts cabinets and counters... and he said he has all kinds of SA stuff and parts that he did not think anyone would want.

My friend has his own CCM museum and might like a CCM parts cabinet and more documentation.
that's awesome, i wish I could find a Sturmy Archer FM or FW and a 4 speed thumb shifter. I don't know any LBS in chicago that work on SA anything
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