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  1. #5251
    gna
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    Count Orlok Member gna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gna View Post
    I finally decided I'd had enough of the non-existent brakes on my 20. I found some alloy BMX rims at MMRB and transferred the spokes over. Saves quite a bit of weight. I'm just about done--I'm finishing up the rear wheel. They also had some Kenda Kwests 20x1.5 that I picked up. The pressure range says 45-60, so just about right for the 20.

    As long as I'm at it, I thought I'd change out the 15T cog for a 17T. I'll report back when I'm finished.
    Ok, I finished up today. New Brake cables, too, as long as I was at it.

    photo(6).jpg

    photo(5).jpg

    It accelerates a bit quicker, and seems a bit lighter, too, though who knows. The front brake is much better, so I'll call it a win. The rear brake still doesn't do much, though it does seem to grab better. On the whole I'm pleased. I'll try riding it to work next week and see how it does.
    Quote Originally Posted by shipwreck View Post
    Sure it works in practice, but will it work in theory.

  2. #5252
    I WILL BE YOUR LARRY arex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard View Post
    And I agree, as tempting as it must be to make it "like new" it looks really really good as it is. Am thinking you might regret putting new paint and graphics on it.
    +1. That's too pretty to paint.
    "Ahab knew, baby...I lust." -- Vet-san

  3. #5253
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael k View Post
    Makes changing boots easier,Eh?
    Also makes it easier to park as it can be folded and left upright on the stand...

  4. #5254
    Senior Member clasher's Avatar
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    Here's a 3 speed conversion I did up recently... the hub is a new SRF3 though and the crank is a new SA. The frame was made in Canada (has ISO bb!) so there's not much actual English content on the bike anymore... It's a pretty sprightly ride though, those old Raleigh 10 speeds make great 3 speed conversions. I have an AW and a Grand Prix frame I want to make into a drop-bar 3 speed.

  5. #5255
    Senior Member Salubrious's Avatar
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    Previously I had mentioned that I was having troubles with the front fork of my Raleigh Superbe, such that it had thrown me off. In fact it was quite dangerous- I would go for several months and then the fork would stiffen up again. I was lucky- really only got some badly skinned knees.

    Turns out that it was the fork lock. Now I had been testing it, and it seemed to not be involved, however, I think I was making an operator error. So I thought I would share this, since falling off a bike that is out of control at speed can be deadly.

    I also have a 1952 Schwinn Black Phantom, which also has a locking front fork. I have had this bike much longer than the Superbe. The Schwinn setup has you turn the fork to the right, operate the lock and then remove the key. When the fork is unlocked, it can' t accidently operate since the fork is pointed straight ahead, and it needs to be turned hard in order to be locked. Also, when the fork is unlocked, the key stays in place and cannot be removed.

    The Superbe is different. The fork is locked pointing straight ahead. I did not realize that the key has to be removed from the fork when the bike is being used. This act locks the lock mechanism so it cannot move and accidentally engage. If you leave the key in place, the fork lock can drift around as the bike encounters bumps in the road and thus it can randomly lock!

    IOW, the key is supposed to stay on your key chain not the fork. It only goes in the fork to operate the lock and it otherwise removed. No doubt this is why most Superbes have been seperated from their keys.

  6. #5256
    I WILL BE YOUR LARRY arex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clasher View Post


    Here's a 3 speed conversion I did up recently... the hub is a new SRF3 though and the crank is a new SA. The frame was made in Canada (has ISO bb!) so there's not much actual English content on the bike anymore... It's a pretty sprightly ride though, those old Raleigh 10 speeds make great 3 speed conversions. I have an AW and a Grand Prix frame I want to make into a drop-bar 3 speed.
    That's pretty slick...I like it. What kind of pedals are those?
    Last edited by arex; 05-10-14 at 01:31 PM.
    "Ahab knew, baby...I lust." -- Vet-san

  7. #5257
    Senior Member clasher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arex View Post
    That's pretty slick...I like it. What kind of pedals are those?
    The parts just kinda came together from a few abandoned projects I had on the go. The pedals on this are VP 872 that I found at the local co-op, they're a bit wider and studier than the generic plastic pedals but nothing amazing. I also picked up another AW hub today so I'm gonna go ahead and build a Gran Prix into a 3 speed road bike soon.

  8. #5258
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    Hey all, I'm new to the forum, though at 64, not that new myself.

    My "vintage" bike is a 1962 Phillips I've had since new, I was 13 when Dad presented it to me (after he whanged a fence and broke the frame on my old middleweight Columbia, but that's another story). Over the years I never stopped riding it though sometimes it was idle for long periods. But no one ever stole it, so now it's 52 years old and basically original, and nowadays I use it regularly, commute about 3 miles to work on it a couple of times a week, here in New Orleans.

    I've been fixing her up slowly, repack bearings, cleaned her up some. Now I'd like to replace the gradually disintegrating rubber pedal blocks while keeping the rest of the pedal (pins and plates) original. Anyone know where I could find replacement rubber blocks--only?

    Thanks. If I knew how to post a photo I would, but you all know what she looks like--black, with white fender tail.

  9. #5259
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Since brake pads are things you expect to wear out, I see nothing wrong with putting modern brake pads on, along with modern tires, etc. Kool Stop are inexpensive and unexcelled. No reason to buy any other brand.
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  10. #5260
    I WILL BE YOUR LARRY arex's Avatar
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    Pedals and toeclips

    About 4/5's of the way down the page, there's some repro pedal blocks for $20. Not sure they'll fit what you have...I get the feeling that they're meant for Schwinns or something, not English bikes. Somebody out there is bound to make them.
    "Ahab knew, baby...I lust." -- Vet-san

  11. #5261
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nolatom View Post
    Hey all, I'm new to the forum, though at 64, not that new myself.

    My "vintage" bike is a 1962 Phillips I've had since new, I was 13 when Dad presented it to me (after he whanged a fence and broke the frame on my old middleweight Columbia, but that's another story). Over the years I never stopped riding it though sometimes it was idle for long periods. But no one ever stole it, so now it's 52 years old and basically original, and nowadays I use it regularly, commute about 3 miles to work on it a couple of times a week, here in New Orleans.

    I've been fixing her up slowly, repack bearings, cleaned her up some. Now I'd like to replace the gradually disintegrating rubber pedal blocks while keeping the rest of the pedal (pins and plates) original. Anyone know where I could find replacement rubber blocks--only?

    Thanks. If I knew how to post a photo I would, but you all know what she looks like--black, with white fender tail.
    You could just replace the pedals... I favour MKS Sylvan pedals as nice replacements since they offer better traction.

  12. #5262
    Senior Member markk900's Avatar
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    Repro or relatively new but gently used rubber block pedals are easy to find and reasonably cheap - if you are looking to preserve the original pedals you could buy a new set just to scavenge the blocks.

    Do you have the square blocks or the slightly curved ones (and reflector or not)? My wife's 1956 Standard actually has very interesting reflectors in the curved pedals; I used NOS Union pedals on my 49 Humber also with reflectors (which were not what it had originally).

    @Sixty Fiver: I used the Sylvan pedals on the 3spd Trek conversion and like them a lot, but they're not cheap and do not look quite right IMO on an older roadster (they look great on one of those Lentons or Reg Harris's posted in another thread).

  13. #5263
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    Thanks to you both.

    They are square, no reflector, so I think anything that's the right dimensions would do. And I recently cleaned and repacked both axle bearings at a local bike co-op here, so will try to save the metal parts and look for something used, whether in a pedal or separate. I had hoped someone might be manufacturing them, but so far no soap..

    Meanwhile a little electrician's tape on the eroded spots would look genuinely retro, ha ha.

    Rode her to work this morning, gorgeous spring day in imperfect but lovely New Orleans. Fyi if you ever visit, much progress in the past year or two on bike lanes and bike paths here, and a new rail-trail in the works from Lakeview neighborhood to the Quarter:

    https://www.google.com/search?q=lafi...ml%3B645%3B330

  14. #5264
    Senior Member markk900's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nolatom
    They are square, no reflector, so I think anything that's the right dimensions would do.
    . Agree!

    Quote Originally Posted by nolatom
    Meanwhile a little electrician's tape on the eroded spots would look genuinely retro, ha ha.
    only if it is gen-u-ine British tape!

    Quote Originally Posted by nolatom
    Fyi if you ever visit, much progress in the past year or two on bike lanes and bike paths here, and a new rail-trail in the works from Lakeview neighborhood to the Quarter.
    . I had the privilege of visiting NOLA a few years ago - what an awesome city and perfect for an English 3-speed!

  15. #5265
    Member BGBeck's Avatar
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    By the looks of the rear hub, it's a three speed.


  16. #5266
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BGBeck View Post
    By the looks of the rear hub, it's a three speed.

    This one showed up on the "Gentleman Cyclist" list recently:


  17. #5267
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    Just getting a chance to check in on "the Thread" - LOL.

    That troika is wayyy coolll!

    What's the scoop on the semi-torpedo grips on the "Twenty" vs. the DARE grips on the Superbe?

    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    Hell Yes!



    Aaron


  18. #5268
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    Quote Originally Posted by auchencrow View Post
    For the rust on the rims, personally I'd disassemble the wheel and go the OA route. You can easily assess what you have at that point (though I suspect there will be enough parent metal left to make a go of it). Then I'd lay some epoxy paint down there in the trough to arrest the rust (rust never sleeps) and clear coat the topside.
    It's a little bit of work, but that's what makes projects so rewarding.
    auchencrow I'd like to get your opinion on this situation...

    I picked up a 1978 Sprite 3-speed in FL last week [ 'The Headbadge' - Vintage bicycle information ] and the "flipper" I bought it from had taken a can of black spray paint and coated both the rims and the OEM gumwall tires with paint. I don't think the rims have nearly as much rust in them as kcaut's new Superbe's do but I'm sure the original 36+ year old gumwalls were REALLY ugly; I've never seen any that old that aren't; hence the flipper's urge to "beautify" the bike. [pics to follow at some point; the emerald green with black head tube inset is visually arresting]

    Anyway, the question I have is this, is there a reasonably not-too-labor-intensive way to get that black paint off the rims and ~ 1.5 inches of spokes and spoke nipples? This bike is all-original throughout and really deserves to be put back right. Tx.

  19. #5269
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    Quote Originally Posted by clasher View Post
    The parts just kinda came together from a few abandoned projects I had on the go. The pedals on this are VP 872 that I found at the local co-op, they're a bit wider and studier than the generic plastic pedals but nothing amazing. I also picked up another AW hub today so I'm gonna go ahead and build a Gran Prix into a 3 speed road bike soon.
    Did you have to narrow the frame at the drop outs on that Sprite mixte in order to get the IGH in? [and/or will you have to on the Gran Prix?]

    That made for a really nice 3-speed conversion; I have a few planned that will be similar once I get to them.

  20. #5270
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    Just getting a chance to check in on "the Thread" - LOL.

    That troika is wayyy coolll!

    What's the scoop on the semi-torpedo grips on the "Twenty" vs. the DARE grips on the Superbe?

    Dyno-Hub!! Woo hoo! Mine is a little weak after half a century untouched, but still works.

  21. #5271
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    Just getting a chance to check in on "the Thread" - LOL.

    That troika is wayyy coolll!

    What's the scoop on the semi-torpedo grips on the "Twenty" vs. the DARE grips on the Superbe?
    Those are the original Dare style grips in that picture, must be the camera angle. It currently has black/cork grips on it now, more comfortable than the Dare. Origin 8's I believe.

    Aaron
    Last edited by wahoonc; 05-19-14 at 08:05 AM.
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  22. #5272
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nolatom View Post
    Dyno-Hub!! Woo hoo! Mine is a little weak after half a century untouched, but still works.
    All of my dynohubs work. My Twenty has an AG hub on it, it will push the modern LED lights just fine.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  23. #5273
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    It's been a while since I had the chance to take my '70 Rudge Sports out for a spin. I found a cool "ELITE" headlamp in my father's basement which I think belonged to his old bike. Don't know anything about it, but it seems to fit well!

    WP_002004.jpgWP_002005.jpgWP_002006.jpgWP_002007.jpgWP_002008.jpgWP_002009.jpg

  24. #5274
    Senior Member clasher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate View Post
    Did you have to narrow the frame at the drop outs on that Sprite mixte in order to get the IGH in? [and/or will you have to on the Gran Prix?]

    That made for a really nice 3-speed conversion; I have a few planned that will be similar once I get to them.
    Nope, my new production srf-3 hub came spaced to 120mm but they have thick spacers under the locknuts so I assume they could be swapped and made to fit narrower spacing should one desire such things. The Grand Prix is getting an AW hub so I might cold-set the frame for the narrower spacing but I might just put the anti-rotation washers on the inside to take up the extra space.

  25. #5275
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    Quote Originally Posted by clasher View Post
    Nope, my new production srf-3 hub came spaced to 120mm but they have thick spacers under the locknuts so I assume they could be swapped and made to fit narrower spacing should one desire such things. The Grand Prix is getting an AW hub so I might cold-set the frame for the narrower spacing but I might just put the anti-rotation washers on the inside to take up the extra space.
    I checked the spacing on a women's frame Sprite 5 speed derailleur we have and it is 120mm. Then I checked a couple of Sports AW hubbed bikes and the Sprite 3 speed AW that I just bought in FL and all three of them have 110 mm. Gonna get out in the shop and check the Bridgestone Kabuki that is the 1st up for 10-to-3 conversion... I'm cautiously encouraged as I really didn't look forward to cold-setting the frame and maybe I won't have to with the off-the-shelf stuff that is out there.

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