If a cotter cannot be pressed out cut it off flush with the crank and then drive it out... support things well and don't be gentle when you hit it..
So now that we're on the subject of stubborn things...
How the hell does one unscrew the internals of a Sturmey Archer AW from it's shell?
Everywhere I looked it said, "use a punch," but that doesn't work. I tried on several hubs.
Cool. I'll try using a little more finesse and a little less force. Any other tips? I just want to overhaul the thing before I start putting lots of miles on it.
I do have a few that need to be overhauled now but it has been a long time since I had to tear one down because it was not working properly... I know that one probably has broken low pawl springs as it only runs in 2nd and 3rd and 1st will not engage.
If any moisture gets inside an SA hub and is left to percolate those pawl springs will be the first thing and usually the only thing that turns to dust.
Figure the other needs new pawls as it has seen a bazillion hard miles and although it shifts well it does not run as smoothly as it should.
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Sixty Fiver, you mean tangential, not parallel, right?
Yeah, these hubs need overhauls so rarely, it boggles my mind. I wonder how the new crop of IGH's will be in the long run.
I had one customer who was too strong for his hub, and he'd go through pawls. But that's extremely rare.
A vise, a punch, and a hammer have always worked for me. Be sure to unscrew counter clockwise. Sometimes the beveled, notched edge that you put the punch against gets worn, but that's why there are two of those notches on the ring!
I decided not to mess with the BB. It turns smooth so I'll save hammering or pressing that cotter till a later date. Overhauled the front hub and head set.
It rolls so smoothly...tick...tick...tick..tick....you get the idea. And as far as it being heavy and cumbersome, I'm not getting that vibe at all. I was able to cruise at probably around 12 mph in 2nd with little effort. It's obviously not a road bike, but it moves. Super clean, super smooth. I do not think I could be happier with the purchase.
Thanks to everyone for all the advice. It was extremely helpful. I'm sure I'll be posting more questions and pics as the days go on. Man is this a dream bike to ride!
Last edited by jedge76; 10-05-10 at 08:43 PM.
1973 Raleigh Superbe
Wow, I'm glad you're as happy as you are.
You can just drop oil into the BB. It will be fine. Stick it in where the spindle meets the cups.
Jedge76-Sixtyfiver- two very nice rides!
My latest find just got lubed and sent to school, still needs a bath! It's a little Pre-Raliegh Norman that has got an oiler on the BB as well as the hubs. At 19" it's the perfect commuter for my son's 1.5 mile ride to school. It really stands out in a sea of BMX bikes.
He initially didn't want to ride to school, but I persuaded him that it was meant to be ridden, and he might as well get some miles on it before it gets too small. It's a perfect commuter/neighborhood cruiser.
SR Test ride..jpg
Andrew, that is a very cool looking bike! I've been collecting all the Norman serial numbers I can get my hands on, so if you please... Is there a serial number? Where? I've usually seen them on the right side of the lower head lug. Drive side photos (chain ring, especially?) please!
Why do you think it's pre-Raleigh? The lugs definitely look pre-Raleigh, but the fork does not. I know that head badge style was used in the 60's and early 70's, but don't know when it was introduced.
From the look of it, you have the rear wheel from a Raleigh Sports; in which case, the hub date may not be relevant to the rest of the bike.
By the way, there is a pair of Norman mudguards on ebay right now, in any color you want (as long as it's black).
Me thinks it's pre-Raleigh becasue the Headbadge reads "Ashford", the local township licenses still on the bike begin in 1959 ( Raliegh took over in 1960 correct?) and the serial number ( on the left Drop-out ) reads C59029. The bike has been repaired several times. The rear rim and hub is from a '72 Raligh Sport ( parts bike donation) There was no rear wheel when I aquired it. Oddly, the front rim has a brass capped oiler, 40's vintage, the frame as a ball and spring 50-60 vintage. I'm assuming either an earlier parts bike donation or using up old parts at the factory.
Thanks for the Mudguard tip!
Well, 1959 license definitely nails it. The rear dropout is also definitely a Pre-Raleigh one; here's a photo of mine. The Norman factory in Ashford closed in August '61; I don't know when bicycle production there stopped.
Even so, that fork bothers me. I thought that crown was a Raleigh thing.
Perhaps parts were purchased and interchanged in latter years? The fork is most definatley original to the bike. When it is home again, I'll compare the fork end to a Raleigh to see what's up. Overall, there is something about it that looks different than a Raleigh fork, not sure what it is, I'll give it a good look over and report what I find.Even so, that fork bothers me. I thought that crown was a Raleigh thing.
I did one stupid thing on my 68 Raleigh sports. I "over-tighten" the bolt on the rear brake bridge tube. When I realized the brake bridge tube had been squeezed by the bolt, it was already TOO LATE! ! ! Did I damage the strength of this frame? Although it still ride beautiful.... Help?