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  1. #1051
    Senior Member biaddiction's Avatar
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    Thanks!
    the tires are Kenda K40 Street (EA3) from BikeTire Direct. It was around $10...I haven't put a lot mileage on it yet but so far so good.



    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    Very clean, biaddiction. What tires are they, and what do you think of them?

  2. #1052
    Steel Member fiataccompli's Avatar
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    This isn't English, but it is a 3 speed. It's a '65 Schwinn Racer (unfortunately the SA hub/wheel was replaced w/ a Shimano setup...but it works perfectly). I've been enjoying this one thoroughly as an office errand or quick lunch break excursionist...very much in the correct spirit of the English 3 speed, eh? I have to say it's a plush ride...perhaps equal or even more plush than my '65 Robin Hood...hmmm.....


  3. #1053
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    fiat - That is a great looking bike and will give you a pass for the Shimano 3 speed... knowing you will eventually find an SA hub to replace it.

    I weighed my Shasta today and with the addition of the AWG and new fenders it is approaching the weight of a Raleigh Sports as well.. those hubs are seriously heavy.

  4. #1054
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    I can't wait for my new addition to this post - I'm driving (8 hour RT) to pick up the Lenton Tourist tomorrow. I already picked up cables, cable Knarps, tires, and grips today at the LBS. I fricking love my LBS...

    Anyway, I'll have before pics tomorrow evening, and hopefully after pics Sunday once I get it cleaned up and rideable. It doesn't appear to need much work, so I'm hoping a good going-through and replacement of the consumables is all it'll need to be a sunday rider, and perhaps a Lake Pepin rider next spring.

    I'm considering the saddle as well. For $85, I can pick up a new VO Model 8, which appears very similar to the Brooks B66 that it currently is wearing, but I'm not sure if I want to go with that, or spring the extra $55 for a true B66. Having the Model 8 already on my Phillips, I love it, and would get another in a heartbeat, but don't know if I want to do that, or go with the original. I'm also thinking that in time, it's going to get a set of VO elkhide handlebar covers to replace the plastic grips.

    Now to find a cheap (i.e. not $130) set of Black or white Bluemels on Ebay....Anybody be able to help me out on that?
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
    1967 Phillips Sports
    1974 Peugeot UO-8 fixed gear
    1978 Raleigh Super Course
    1981 Schwinn LeTour
    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


    Master of the low end garbajj!

  5. #1055
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    That Schwinn looks like its angles are laxer and its wheelbase is longer than a Sports. It's more like a Tourist but with 26" wheels. No wonder you call it plush.

    mickey85, that will be cool. You'll have a Lenton in Linton!

    Your best bet for Blumels fenders is to find a donor bike that happens to have them. You can sell the bike for the same price you buy it for and get a free pair of fenders. It will take time for this strategy to work, but it will work, given enough patience.
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
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    Employer: Larry's Freewheeling, 301 W 110 St, New York, NY 10026
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  6. #1056
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    That Schwinn looks like its angles are laxer and its wheelbase is longer than a Sports. It's more like a Tourist but with 26" wheels. No wonder you call it plush.

    mickey85, that will be cool. You'll have a Lenton in Linton!

    Your best bet for Blumels fenders is to find a donor bike that happens to have them. You can sell the bike for the same price you buy it for and get a free pair of fenders. It will take time for this strategy to work, but it will work, given enough patience.
    Yeah, that's a thought. I did notice today that the fork is bent...I'll have to tweak it back into alignment, but the problem is that it's the blades themselves that are curved back - it's gonna take some finesse. Now that I look at it, I can't NOT notice it. ack.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mickey85; 10-17-10 at 06:29 PM.
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
    1967 Phillips Sports
    1974 Peugeot UO-8 fixed gear
    1978 Raleigh Super Course
    1981 Schwinn LeTour
    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


    Master of the low end garbajj!

  7. #1057
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Here's a little before and after and I was pretty thankful I did not have a derailleur on my bike today... the clay mud along the river is like velcro but had no effect on the AWG and cleaning this up will be easy...

    Before... shiny and clean.



    After...






  8. #1058
    Senior Member Andrew F's Avatar
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    I did notice today that the fork is bent...
    Not too bad, looks the the uper part of the fork and tube are ok, the bend seems to be at the the mid piont.

  9. #1059
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    I know what an AW hub is, but what's an AWG?
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Employer: Larry's Freewheeling, 301 W 110 St, New York, NY 10026
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  10. #1060
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    I know what an AW hub is, but what's an AWG?
    AW with the generator built into the rear hub, they also made an FG 4 speed. I have a couple of them, I will try and add a picture as soon as I can find one.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
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    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
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  11. #1061
    Senior Member ColonelJLloyd's Avatar
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    A friend has a Raleigh Esquire. It has an AWG hub and is complete with factory head and taillights. Seems info on the Esquire is pretty scarce. Can anyone enlighten me?

  12. #1062
    Senior Member southpawboston's Avatar
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    not sure i've shown this SA 3-speed before, but this is my wife's 1973 dutch-built union savoy:






  13. #1063
    Senior Member Andrew F's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^ What a beauty^^^^^^^^

  14. #1064
    neits stien's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post


    Lol, awesome!

  15. #1065
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stien View Post
    Lol, awesome!
    I need to use this to point out the benefits of full fenders... my frame and water bottle has nary a speck of crud on them and I stayed really clean.

  16. #1066
    Senior Member ColonelJLloyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by southpawboston View Post
    Good heavens, Anton! That is a gorgeous, gorgeous bike! Lucky lady, Mrs. Southpaw.

  17. #1067
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    I think I have seen it in another thread but it never fails to impress me. It's a pretty amazing bike. I love the wiring coming out of the stem, so cool.
    |^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
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  18. #1068
    Senior Member AL NZ's Avatar
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    I have got my bikes back to NZ from the UK.
    But my Raleigh "All Steel Bicycle", with FG 4 speed hub and stainless Dunlop rims, has deteriorating paintwork.
    When I first picked it up in the UK the paint was a lot better, but I foolishly left it in a carport in dank weather, and all this minor surface rust popped up.
    It still has all its transfers, and mechanically is magic.
    It has cracking Michelin tyres, so I have tracked down some all-grey Cheng Shin 26 x 1 3/8" tyres from a bike shop 'down the line'. Not my favourite brand, but they have the traditional 3-block tread pattern as per the old Dunlops which are now impossible to get. The LBS guy tells me the current NZ Schwalbe agent is useless, so that is depressing. Luckily I stocked up on cream 28" delta cruisers for the BSA a while ago.

    Anyway, what advice can you all give me to gently renovate the paint on 'Old Steel'? I tried a mild cutting compound on a rear mudguard, and then some quality car polish (the stuff they use on Astons and Rolls-Royces) but no improvement.
    I am unkeen on fiddling around with oxalic acid.

    any suggestions?

    IMG_0078..jpgIMG_0073..jpgIMG_0075..jpg

  19. #1069
    Senior Member TuckamoreDew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post


    Nice! I can barely walk down there sometimes. The one time I took my commuter with fenders down to the waterline I got so much clay caked between them and the tires that I could barely pedal.

  20. #1070
    Senior Member southpawboston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post


    impressive. what was the logic behind the placement of the cantis so low on the chainstays on those early mtbs? it seems to me that they would be more susceptible to getting all caked up this way.

  21. #1071
    Senior Member southpawboston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew F View Post
    ^^^^^^ What a beauty^^^^^^^^
    Quote Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd View Post
    Good heavens, Anton! That is a gorgeous, gorgeous bike! Lucky lady, Mrs. Southpaw.
    Quote Originally Posted by mkeller234 View Post
    I think I have seen it in another thread but it never fails to impress me. It's a pretty amazing bike. I love the wiring coming out of the stem, so cool.
    thanks! yeah, she's lucky, all right. she never has to do the work finding them!

  22. #1072
    Velocommuter Commando Sirrus Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by southpawboston View Post
    impressive. what was the logic behind the placement of the cantis so low on the chainstays on those early mtbs? it seems to me that they would be more susceptible to getting all caked up this way.

    It's a U brake and they were only on the scene for a short time (around 1988) for the reason you observe. They are okay for road riding though.
    Riding 19 Years of Specialized Sirrus Tradition.
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    1988 Specialized Sirrus, 1989 Alpine Monitor Pass MTB, 2007 Specialized Sirrus 700C hybrid, 2007 Schwinn Town & Country trike, 1970 "Resto-Improved" Raleigh 20, 1970 "WIP" Raleigh 20, and 1980 "WIP" Schwinn Town & Country trike

  23. #1073
    rhm
    rhm is offline
    multimodal commuter rhm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AL NZ View Post
    Anyway, what advice can you all give me to gently renovate the paint on 'Old Steel'? I tried a mild cutting compound on a rear mudguard, and then some quality car polish (the stuff they use on Astons and Rolls-Royces) but no improvement.
    I am unkeen on fiddling around with oxalic acid.

    any suggestions?

    IMG_0078..jpgIMG_0073..jpgIMG_0075..jpg
    Try rubbing oil into it. Any oil will help; I've used motor oil, 3-in-1, etc. I've also had good luck with true drying oils-- linseed oil or tung oil (furniture polish). I am frankly not sure what's best. The idea is that the oil seeps into the cavities and fills them up, restoring the color from underneath, while sealing them from the outside as well.

  24. #1074
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    Have it stripped and powdercoated with reapplied Raleigh decaling. The bike should last for a long time.

  25. #1075
    Senior Member gbalke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhm View Post
    Try rubbing oil into it. Any oil will help; I've used motor oil, 3-in-1, etc. I've also had good luck with true drying oils-- linseed oil or tung oil (furniture polish). I am frankly not sure what's best. The idea is that the oil seeps into the cavities and fills them up, restoring the color from underneath, while sealing them from the outside as well.
    I have to agree with Rudi on this. The oil rub should work wonders preserving the original paint and decals. The one thing you do not want to do is to strip it and powder coat it; that would definitely effect its actual value in the most negative way.
    1968 Robin Hood 3 speed...1970's Raleigh Sports Pathracer
    1972 Raleigh Sports............1973 Raleigh Sports
    1974 Raleigh Grand Prix......1974 Raleigh Grand Prix (made in Holland)
    1969 Peugeot UO-18...........1971 Peugeot UO-8
    1980's Giant Project.............2007 Trek 3700 mountain bike
    1971 German 3 speed.........1977 Motobecane Super Mirage Mixte
    1970 Raleigh Twenty...........1972 Raleigh Sports (donor bike)
    1954 Humber Sports (my newest project)

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