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Old 01-16-17, 07:57 AM   #12351
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It has been a while... nice to see that folks are still here.

Pretty soon it will be seven years since post number 1.

Dang.
Good to see you!
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Old 01-16-17, 11:04 AM   #12352
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I've made a practice of putting a Shimano 23 tooth sprocket on every IGH roadster I've owned, from my Raleigh Tourist to my Twenty. I've found that swapping the 16 for the 23 effectively drop third gear to what used to be second, second down to roughly first, and first becomes something that can actually climb a couple of the hills in my neighborhood.

Doing this conversion on my '69 Sprite has me rarely using the left side shifter under drive.
I take the same approach with AW hubs as you, but I'm happy with the stock 18T cog on my S5 Sprite. The gearing and medium ratio spacing on the right is perfect for me and there's a granny on the left when I need it. That does leave me with an overdrive on the left that I never use.
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Old 01-16-17, 11:42 AM   #12353
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Adapt a Shimano Bell Crank to Sturmey Archer?

I was wondering if anyone has converted a Shimano bell crank to fit an S5 S/A axle. The diameter of the S/A axle is larger, but there is not a lot of wall thickness on the Shimano bell crank.

I am also wondering if the Shimano push rod could be a replacement for the S/A (I think the Shimano is a bit longer).
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Old 01-16-17, 12:06 PM   #12354
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I was wondering if anyone has converted a Shimano bell crank to fit an S5 S/A axle. The diameter of the S/A axle is larger, but there is not a lot of wall thickness on the Shimano bell crank.

I am also wondering if the Shimano push rod could be a replacement for the S/A (I think the Shimano is a bit longer).
I was thinking about that too. Although, I know I won't be springing for an S5 even if it would be perfect for my roadster. Just too expensive for me. What I would do with the Shimano would be drill, ream and press in a blank rod.
There's no torque on this part so I think a press fit will do. Then drill and tap to the correct size for the SA axle. That would mean getting the correct tap...more$$$
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Old 01-16-17, 12:55 PM   #12355
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I was thinking about that too. Although, I know I won't be springing for an S5 even if it would be perfect for my roadster. Just too expensive for me. What I would do with the Shimano would be drill, ream and press in a blank rod.
There's no torque on this part so I think a press fit will do. Then drill and tap to the correct size for the SA axle. That would mean getting the correct tap...more$$$
The tap for S/A axles is not something you could pick up at Lowes.
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Old 01-16-17, 02:02 PM   #12356
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Sun Trivolux---not all british 3 speeds came in a can
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Old 01-16-17, 02:47 PM   #12357
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I've made a practice of putting a Shimano 23 tooth sprocket on every IGH roadster I've owned, from my Raleigh Tourist to my Twenty. I've found that swapping the 16 for the 23 effectively drop third gear to what used to be second, second down to roughly first, and first becomes something that can actually climb a couple of the hills in my neighborhood.

Doing this conversion on my '69 Sprite has me rarely using the left side shifter under drive.
The Sprite S5 and the four-speed FW hubs open up some different possibilities. My Sprite S5 is 48-24. I set it up as my "hilly road" rider. I like both hubs.
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Old 01-16-17, 03:21 PM   #12358
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The Sprite S5 and the four-speed FW hubs open up some different possibilities. My Sprite S5 is 48-24. I set it up as my "hilly road" rider. I like both hubs.
I very much enjoy my Sprite having had only two problems with it:

1. I've never been able to find the cable casing clamp of the proper diameter for the Raleigh's rear stays. I've got one that's close, but I have to beer can shim it, and after about four or five shifts it starts slipping down the stay.

2. Originally I bought the bike with a SA handlebar trigger because the right lever was broken. Finally found another lever setup. In less than two years, the right lever snapped, so I'm back the handlebar trigger. And looking for another one.
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Old 01-16-17, 03:45 PM   #12359
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It has been a while... nice to see that folks are still here.

Pretty soon it will be seven years since post number 1.

Dang.
Great to see you. Hope everything is going well.

Can I get permission to post about a build with an FW hub in the thread (when it's ready)?
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Old 01-16-17, 07:19 PM   #12360
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
It has been a while... nice to see that folks are still here.

Pretty soon it will be seven years since post number 1.

Dang.
Nice to see you post. I was thinking about you the other day when I happened to notice on post #2 in this thread a bike which I think is the same color green as a 64 Sports that I recently took possession of. Hope all is well.
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Old 01-16-17, 07:26 PM   #12361
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I was wondering if anyone has converted a Shimano bell crank to fit an S5 S/A axle. The diameter of the S/A axle is larger, but there is not a lot of wall thickness on the Shimano bell crank.

I am also wondering if the Shimano push rod could be a replacement for the S/A (I think the Shimano is a bit longer).
Use of a Shimano bell crank is possible, according to RHM and also according to the BikeSmith guy in Minnesota who sells the cottered crank tools and Raleigh cut cotters. Problem is that there is likely no tap available of the correct size. Not that I've been able to find, anyway. Someone said that Sheldon Brown used an AW axle as a tap.

As for the push rod, apparently a substitute can be fashioned from a proper gauge nail.

I have done neither of the above, just been thinking about it since I bought a 4 speed hub that is convertible to a 5 speed. I'm considering it but want to get the hub into a wheel and try it out as a 4 speed first. edit: My hub is an FG which is a combo of the dynohub and the FW hub

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Old 01-16-17, 07:40 PM   #12362
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This will get you to there ad for the reflector Spares and Accessories for Roadster Bicycles Raleigh Tourist 28" 635mm at Yellow Jersey Westwood Rims is another keyword Rod brakes British spares Whitworth Phillips Tourist.

It's a strange site with lots of pages that don't look like they've been updated in about 20 years. The whole thing has a sort of "vintage" look to it.
Thanks, Des. Does anyone know what these are like? They look like a great ad-on for bikes missing the originals. Are these reproductions? Or are they just housed reflectors that will suffice?
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Old 01-16-17, 09:30 PM   #12363
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It has been a while... nice to see that folks are still here. Pretty soon it will be seven years since post number 1. Dang.
You've created a monster, Keith!

Welcome back.
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Old 01-16-17, 09:49 PM   #12364
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Thanks, Des. Does anyone know what these are like? They look like a great ad-on for bikes missing the originals. Are these reproductions? Or are they just housed reflectors that will suffice?
IMO, I'd look for one with the white housing around the reflector, if that's what was like the original on your bike.
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Old 01-16-17, 10:13 PM   #12365
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Sun Trivolux---not all british 3 speeds came in a can

Interesting. Would love to see the rest of the bike. I own a 1958 Sun Cresta with a 5 speed Benelux RD.
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Old 01-17-17, 06:46 AM   #12366
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Originally Posted by desconhecido View Post
Use of a Shimano bell crank is possible, according to RHM and also according to the BikeSmith guy in Minnesota who sells the cottered crank tools and Raleigh cut cotters. Problem is that there is likely no tap available of the correct size. Not that I've been able to find, anyway. Someone said that Sheldon Brown used an AW axle as a tap.

As for the push rod, apparently a substitute can be fashioned from a proper gauge nail.

I have done neither of the above, just been thinking about it since I bought a 4 speed hub that is convertible to a 5 speed. I'm considering it but want to get the hub into a wheel and try it out as a 4 speed first. edit: My hub is an FG which is a combo of the dynohub and the FW hub
I think the easiest thing to do would be to chuck the round end of a right side SA axle nut in a lathe and turn the nut side down to a size you could saw off and use as a sleeve. Turn it down to .001 over the hole you drilled and reamed in the Shimano and press it in. A lot of work, but considering the odd thread of the SA axle, the best way I can come up with to fabricate a S5 bell crank.
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Old 01-17-17, 08:07 AM   #12367
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Interesting. Would love to see the rest of the bike. I own a 1958 Sun Cresta with a 5 speed Benelux RD.
The bike is very nice restored 35 sun tandem but what's really cool is seeing a video of it shifting---the cogs slide on the axel and move under the chain. Sorry but posting photos on this site is a PITA for me--I go thro Photobucket to resize and that site is a bigger pita!
Sun is somewhat over looked but made great bikes--and one of the largest makers of tandems frames.
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Old 01-17-17, 04:29 PM   #12368
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My second English was purchased today for $5. After working on the Huffy, I think I can breeze through this:

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Old 01-20-17, 03:46 PM   #12369
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1971 Robin Hood "Sports Model"

All the recent chatter about gearing and sprockets got me interested in making some changes to the '71 Robin Hood. It came to me totally original and wearing an 18 tooth cog with a 46T chain ring. After two years of riding I have found the gearing too big for the type of riding done with this bike. I use it for my leisurely nostalgic cruising about bike. I had a 20T in the parts bin, but my LBS which was once a Raleigh dealer had a new 21T which I paid $8.00 for.(that was the original price on the part).
I also replaced the chain with a new KMC. The only difficult part of the job was sizing the chain. Even a 1/2 link was not a help. In the center of the dropouts, I had fender clearance issues with the Schwalbe tires. so I went back to about where it was before and not requiring a 1/2 link as before. No chance to ride it yet due to crappy winter weather but I think it will fine.
While I was at it, I replaced the hard thin white plastic bar tape with something more comfortable if not as period.
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File Type: jpg DSCF3240.jpg (96.0 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF3241.jpg (90.9 KB, 78 views)
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Old 01-20-17, 04:25 PM   #12370
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^^^ Pretty as always!
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Old 01-20-17, 04:30 PM   #12371
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What a well preserved specimen that is, @browngw.
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Old 01-20-17, 04:56 PM   #12372
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I never get tired of seeing this bike. I think you'll be pleased with the mod. I think it gives 3rd a good tempo and cruising speed for this type of bike and it sure is handy to have a choice of lower gears to work with, especially in hilly country. Much more useful than an overdrive
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Old 01-20-17, 05:37 PM   #12373
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My second English was purchased today for $5. After working on the Huffy, I think I can breeze through this:

Probably 78 or 79 judging from the brakes and the two-tone paint job. I like the looks of those and for $5 it's a literal steel steal.
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Old 01-20-17, 05:42 PM   #12374
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I have a 22t on a 56 Sports with 48t in front. It has a light so I ride it in the middle of the night. The other night I actually got it into 3rd gear for a sustained stretch and was feeling real good about losing weight and getting into shape. Then I turned and fought the headwind all the way home. Oh, well.
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Old 01-20-17, 06:22 PM   #12375
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Probably 78 or 79 judging from the brakes and the two-tone paint job. I like the looks of those and for $5 it's a literal steel steal.
Thanks and yeah it's a '78.
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