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  1. #1451
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd View Post
    Yeah, a 24" DL-1 would do, but I'm not crazy about a 40+ lb bike with rod brakes. It's just not something I need (as if that's the criterion I use with any bike purchase). I will probably build an approximation around a sport-touring road frame at some point.
    My Rudge only weighed 38 pounds... a veritable lightweight.

  2. #1452
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of the latest acquisition...

    1973 Raleigh Colt step through for my bride, along with my 1972 Superbe.

    Aaron

    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  3. #1453
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    Here is a picture of the latest acquisition...

    1973 Raleigh Colt step through for my bride, along with my 1972 Superbe.

    Aaron
    You are a good husband.

  4. #1454
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
    You are a good husband.
    Trying to stay ahead of the shoe count...

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  5. #1455
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    I am putting the headset and the fork back together on my Superbe. Now I am curious if anyone of you would know the exact # of the loose ball bearings that go to the head tube cup and the fork crown race? I kind of tried it and #25 is the number I got.

  6. #1456
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    I seem to remember the number 24 but don't quote me on that. Fill it dry until you can't get any more in. If there isn't any significant rattle space between the balls then take one out. That's what I do.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  7. #1457
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  8. #1458
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    Well, I've gotten my first email from the Lake Pepin crew about the ride - gotta say that I'm a bit more than excited about this. One thing though - the Phillips I have and was going to take (as the Lenton could use some more work) has a head lug that isn't completely filled. It's the top tube lug, and it's enough to catch a fingernail on the back side of the head tube.

    Now, it's been like this. Probably since it was built in '68. No wobbles, no jiggles, no loose feeling, and for all intents and purposes, it doesn't affect the bike at all. I've ridden it probably 500 miles by now, and haven't encountered any expansion.

    Should I be concerned? I think I'm just being overly paranoid.
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
    1967 Phillips Sports
    1974 Peugeot UO-8 fixed gear
    1978 Raleigh Super Course
    1981 Schwinn LeTour
    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


    Master of the low end garbajj!

  9. #1459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    Thanks! Gotta try it again today.

  10. #1460
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahson View Post
    Thanks! Gotta try it again today.
    I start this with the bike upside down on the stand so I can load the bottom cup (use lots of grease) and then insert the fork, tie it in place and then flip the bike back to upright to load the top and finish the assembly.

    Only takes a few minutes this way.

  11. #1461
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Justin, does it feel too small because of the short top tube? You have probably spent your whole adult life feeling cramped in many situations, and perhaps you get this feeling on that Sports. But it's really normal for us road riders when we jump on a Sports. The reach is extremely short. If that seat is adjusted to your height, then the bike isn't too small for you. And if you want, you can get a long-extension stem.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
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  12. #1462
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
    I start this with the bike upside down on the stand so I can load the bottom cup (use lots of grease) and then insert the fork, tie it in place and then flip the bike back to upright to load the top and finish the assembly.

    Only takes a few minutes this way.
    I don't even flip the bike over again. I start with the bike upside down in the work stand and load the bottom race with grease and fill with bearings. Then I carefully drop the fork into the head until it seats and aligns.

    I load the top/threaded race with grease and fill with bearings and screw that onto the fork from the bottom up until it seats as well. Only then do I crack the brake on the stand and rotate it back upright again to mess around with the headlight bracket, and necessary washer/shims, and the top locknut. The design of the Raleigh races allows this where a more-modern threaded headset cone won't always let you get away with this.

    Holding the fork with one hand while loading 25 bearings with the other is not the easiest way to do things. On a bike where I have no choice but to flip due to the shape of the top race being cone-shaped I use a bungie to hold the fork to the frame so that it doesn't fall out by gravity or need to be held constantly. That way I can use both hands to load the top bearings. Using caged bearings on the top race makes things a lot simpler here although I usually don't buy or use them unless they come with a new headset. I keep my bearings in little glass jars that artichoke hearts come in originally and try to always buy more before the jar gets fewer than 50 left. I put the new package of 144 inside the jar but don't open the little plastic envelope in so as not to mix different bearing batches although that really isn't that big of a deal with grade 300 cheap bicycle bearings...

    I use lots of grease too. A lot of grease pushes out when I assemble but it is easy to wipe off and clean and it's cheap. A big 16 oz. tub of Castrol #2 costs less than $5 at the auto parts store and lasts for years and years. I'm not worried about wasting it.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  13. #1463
    Senior Member ColonelJLloyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    Justin, does it feel too small because of the short top tube? You have probably spent your whole adult life feeling cramped in many situations, and perhaps you get this feeling on that Sports. But it's really normal for us road riders when we jump on a Sports. The reach is extremely short. If that seat is adjusted to your height, then the bike isn't too small for you. And if you want, you can get a long-extension stem.
    Can I make it work? Yes. It it the proper size? No. I'm right at 6'. I was in a traumatic accident just prior to my 18th birthday and my 4th lumbar burst into shrapnel. A piece of someone else's femur bone, a fair amount of titanium nuts and bolts and bone fusion later my torso is simply shorter than it would have been otherwise. I was long-legged to begin with so this just exacerbated the issue relative to my overall height. Relatively short top tubes work for me. So, the reach can be set to accommodate me pretty easily using a taller stem with a longer reach.

    The seat post as pictured is not quite high enough, but works for short rides. I'm not interested in modifying this beauty. It's just not right for me. I'd rather see it go to someone to whom it is better suited. 9-10 centimeters of stem showing is my limit. More than that and I personally feel that a bike looks bad. I'm pretty much a fistful of seat post guy too.
    Bikes on Flickr
    I prefer email to private messages. You can contact me at justinhughes@me.com

  14. #1464
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    ....rotate it back upright again to mess around with the headlight bracket, and necessary washer/shims, and the top locknut.
    My headset doesn't have any washer/shims in between the locknut and the top threaded race. Is that necessary? Btw you guys gave me a good lesson on how to load ball bearings in a easier way.

  15. #1465
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    ahson - There is usually some extra room between that locknut and the top race for a washer or light bracket.

  16. #1466
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    Is it Proper to post about 3+2 speeds here?

    Just aquired 2 1967 Sprites - His & Hers. Had never seen these shift levers before, but they seem to be original.

    Downside is the men's bike has a crimp in the downtube. Someone hit something. Seems to ride ok, smooth, goes straight. Should I worry about it?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  17. #1467
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Those are 5 speeds...and they are English so I guess you can put them here.

    Nice find, those are not nearly as common as the regular 3 speeds.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  18. #1468
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    That bike is has quite the bend in it. I don't think it's about to fall apart at any second but it has to be felt a little bit as the steering geometry/rake has been modified quite a bit. I guess these bikes start with a pretty gentle steering angle to begin with so when a crash tightens it up a little the bike isn't too twitchy steering. Can you ride it no-handed and have it still track straight and not want to pull to one side or wobble? Then it is probably fine. I've seen much worse out there still riding around. I wouldn't ride it down mountains at break-neck speed unless you have a really strong neck...
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  19. #1469
    Senior Member curbtender's Avatar
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  20. #1470
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curbtender View Post
    Japanese hub...just sayin...

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  21. #1471
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    LOL. Pedal isn't bent, it's the crank.

    This guy is on crack.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  22. #1472
    Senior Member jamesj's Avatar
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    I was looking at the sports i bought my wife and i noticed one of the lugs was not looking good, i know that the 70's raleigh's were not the best made, and im petty sure this bike hasn't been in a crash. im worried about the integrity of the frame.








  23. #1473
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    That's probably just a void area in the lug. Not pretty, and arguably subject to rust, but unlikely to be a serious threat. Push some grease or linseed oil or something into the void to fill it and keep moisture out.

  24. #1474
    Senior Member jamesj's Avatar
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    thats what i thought also but just wanted some confirmation. . do you think i could spray some framesaver in there and that would work?



    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    That's probably just a void area in the lug. Not pretty, and arguably subject to rust, but unlikely to be a serious threat. Push some grease or linseed oil or something into the void to fill it and keep moisture out.

  25. #1475
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Maybe you should use framesaver first and then follow up with grease to, um, seal it, kinda sorta.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

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