Older CCM bikes are very nicely made bicycles and were rather light for their day but I am not a fan of the later versions from the 70's as they are more tank like and cannot compare to the feel of a Raleigh on the road.
My 1940 CCM has a rather lightweight frame (5 pounds) and has a pretty amazing ride... my 1933 CCM roadster was also relatively lightweight compared to the 60's versions which used much heavier frames that go *thunk* when you tap them.
Yes, I agree that there is some "worth" to that relationship that you talk about with the LBS. At least here in Savannah, there are two shops that will bend over backwards to answer a tech question or sell you a seat cover and give you the same attention that a new bike buyer receives. The third (and unfortunately the one that is only 4 blocks away) could give a damn about you if you are buying a new bike (and maybe not even then). There is a monetary value to the level of customer service you receive.
By the way, what bike did you get?
Had this Raleigh roll into the co-op and got her all serviced and ready to roll and my friend, who has just returned from a world tour where his beloved touring bike was written off, was looking for a good commuter bike.
He said that after taking this for a ride he couldn't get the smile off his face and he took it home for $80.00 - he got the volunteer discount.
I dropped the shifter to the lower drop position and he just loved that.
The cable housing at the rear brake seems a bit long to me.
And is there a reason the seat clamp is on backwards? I know sometimes people do it deliberately, but not always.
Very nice bikes, everyone. The old 3-speeds (and single-speeds) certainly have a very classic look and a wonderful ride. One of these days I might try one, but the weight issue is keeping me from doing so: I just haven't been able to convince myself to get back into heavy gas-pipe frames and steel parts. The Lenton shows that there are a few lighter options, but I have never seen one for sale. One can always convert a lightweight, but then you lose the authenticity, which is kind of the point to begin with.
Certain designs of bikes don't need to be light. Others do. It's hard to appreciate this point until you try one.
The following summer I found a pair of matching Raleigh Sports. I follwed the listing for a month and watched the asking price fall every week until I was satisfied with the price and then I made my move. At that time I found out that the seller, who owned a flea matket store, just received a pair in better condition. Those are the ones I bought and they had Brooks saddles, seat bags and new tires. My cost for the pair was $125.
Last year my main find was a pair of Raleigh Twenty's that I was able to snap up for the total sum of $100.
I recently built up this "three speed" -- it's actually a five speed, with the new wide range hub with drum brake.
Being 6' tall, and preferring short crank arms, I wanted a (too) big frame that I could put (too) small wheels on. So this is a 62 cm Lambert frame with 26" (MTB size) wheels. The small wheels necessitated drum brakes. It rides very nicely! I haven't weighed it.
Goodness, rhm, that's incredible. I adore it.
Why do you like such short cranks? Do you spin really fast?
Funny... I prefer 175's and don't like anything shorter than 170's.
I don't know, what's really fast? Judging by other cyclists I see, I often see cyclists who spin as fast as I, but only occasionally do I see someone who spins much faster; so I guess I'm at the higher end of the "normal" range. These cranks are 140's, which is frankly a little on the small side. I've tried everything between 127 (5") to 175 and found that crank length really doesn't make much difference at a normal cadence (90-100 rpm). The short ones offer a small advantage at a high cadence and a small disadvantage at a low cadence. In deep snow, they are a disadvantage (confirmed this morning) but I don't ride in that very often.
For those of you afraid to tear into your AW hubs, check out this video:
It's not so scary after all!
While technically not a 3 speed, here's my 1968 Sprite. I bought it for $40, but stuck about another $60 into it.
I just started a phot sharing account we'll see if this works.
http://www.togglechaintour.co.uk/ , that looks like fun.