Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-22-11, 03:34 PM   #2351
Amesja
Cottered Crank
 
Amesja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
Posts: 3,496
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I am pretty sure the virtual top-tube length difference is minimal if any at all between the two. Might as well just get a big stem and tall seatpost if you want taller. Steel ones are cheap and readily available.
Amesja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 10:42 AM   #2352
P_M 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Bikes: Devinci Tosca S
Posts: 169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Just curious, my Sports came with a white cap over the right axle nut on the rear hub. I've seen very few older 3 speeds with it.

It seems to me the only real function would be just to protect the chain on the spindle during shipping. It is meant for anything else?
P_M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 11:03 AM   #2353
Sixty Fiver
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Bikes: See my sig...
Posts: 27,262
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
P_M - The cap protects the indicator spindle from getting damaged through daily adventures... like scrubbing it up against something or laying the bike down on the drive side.
Sixty Fiver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 11:13 AM   #2354
P_M 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Bikes: Devinci Tosca S
Posts: 169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Sixty Fiver - thanks for the reply. I see more bike without them than with them, hence my curiousity.
P_M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 11:16 AM   #2355
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Posts: 15,735
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertob View Post
Here's my latest 3-speed, beautiful 1930s or 40s Humber Sports. I'm not sure what to do with it actually. my wife doesn't like drop bars and the brakes suck so it's not such a fun rider. Plus it's so perfect that I would hate to scratch any of the paint
Get Koolstop brake pads and the brakes will be much better.

Switch out the Lauterwasser bar for a Northroad bar. This will make your wife happy. Sell the Lauterwasser bar on ebay; it should bring a couple hundred bucks.
rhm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 11:16 AM   #2356
Amesja
Cottered Crank
 
Amesja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
Posts: 3,496
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The cap was ugly and most people either took it off or it got busted off -being plastic. Many were taken off by the LBS I would guess. I almost never see them. I wonder when they started putting them on? Late 60's and 70's I would guess.
Amesja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 12:08 PM   #2357
Mike Mills
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 2,930
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhm View Post
Switch out the Lauterwasser bar for a Northroad bar. This will make your wife happy. Sell the Lauterwasser bar on ebay; it should bring a couple hundred bucks.

... or keep them even after switching to North Roads bars, or just flip them over, top-to-bottom, because if you sell them, they are probably irreplacable (very rare, hence, the high sale price).
Mike Mills is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 12:58 PM   #2358
Maddox
Ride heavy metal.
 
Maddox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Teenage Wasteland, USA
Bikes: '74 Raleigh LTD-3, '76 Motobecane Grand Jubile, '83 Fuji TSIII (customized commuter), '10 Mercier Kilo WT (fixed obsession), '83 Bianchi Alloro, '92 Bridgestone MB-1 (project), '83 Specialized Expedition (project), '79 Peugeot UO-8 (sold)
Posts: 1,634
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The latest find and project: A 1969 Raleigh Superbe. $50 on Craigslist. A rare find for the young state of Arizona, and a restoration project for the girlfriend.



The bike is currently stripped except for cottered cranks/BB, and the fenders, front fork, and chainguard are all soaking in an OA solution. I'll be starting a thread to share progress and ask for a few opinions on how to tackle the badly oxidized frame and formerly rusty parts.




Last edited by Maddox; 08-23-11 at 01:08 PM.
Maddox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 01:16 PM   #2359
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Posts: 15,735
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Mills View Post
... or keep them even after switching to North Roads bars, or just flip them over, top-to-bottom, because if you sell them, they are probably irreplacable (very rare, hence, the high sale price).
Yeah, I would keep them, myself. There is a reason they went out of fashion, though: they're not very comfortable.
rhm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-11, 01:33 PM   #2360
Mike Mills
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 2,930
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I put North Roads bars on my commuter. I like them more than the straight, flat mountain bike bars they replaces but they are not my favorite. They curve to the rear and you hands are almost parallel to the top tube and are very close to you (poor leverage when climbing). You have a very erect posture. I was thinking something a little more Albatross-ish would be better.
Mike Mills is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-11, 10:04 AM   #2361
P_M 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Bikes: Devinci Tosca S
Posts: 169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Okay, I have one more issue. I've found a ladies Raleigh 3 speed (looks like an older Sports - certainly older than mine) that I'm going to look at tonight. But from the picture it appears to be missing at least one (can't see the other side) cap on the fork crown.

I don't know what the construction is so I'm going on wild speculation. Is it open at the top of the fork blade inside that crown tube? If so, any concerns about rust from the inside out? If not, does anyone know where I can order or otherwise pilfer some caps?
P_M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-11, 02:52 PM   #2362
Maddox
Ride heavy metal.
 
Maddox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Teenage Wasteland, USA
Bikes: '74 Raleigh LTD-3, '76 Motobecane Grand Jubile, '83 Fuji TSIII (customized commuter), '10 Mercier Kilo WT (fixed obsession), '83 Bianchi Alloro, '92 Bridgestone MB-1 (project), '83 Specialized Expedition (project), '79 Peugeot UO-8 (sold)
Posts: 1,634
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by P_M View Post
Okay, I have one more issue. I've found a ladies Raleigh 3 speed (looks like an older Sports - certainly older than mine) that I'm going to look at tonight. But from the picture it appears to be missing at least one (can't see the other side) cap on the fork crown.

I don't know what the construction is so I'm going on wild speculation. Is it open at the top of the fork blade inside that crown tube? If so, any concerns about rust from the inside out? If not, does anyone know where I can order or otherwise pilfer some caps?
This should not be an issue...The fork crown on Sports is fully enclosed, not open, and capped of with a welded-on lugged crown that covers over the blades. There's nothing removable or "capped" about it. Either (a) you're wrong about the photo and are noticing a flaw that doesn't structurally exist, (b) the bike is seriously damaged and/or structurally flawed in some way, or (c) I'm completely misunderstanding your question.

Any photos? I've dealt with low-end gaspipe bikes and cruisers (such as 80's era Huffys and an old Centurion LeMans, not 3-speeds or Raleighs) that had a chrome aluminum sleeve-like ornamental "cap" or "cover" that slid over the steerer and sat atop the fork crown, but I've never seen a Sports with such a thing. Could that be what you think you're seeing on the bike? If so, I don't know what to tell you -- I've never seen a Raleigh Sports with one. Perhaps that could be what you're referring to?
Maddox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-11, 03:05 PM   #2363
P_M 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Bikes: Devinci Tosca S
Posts: 169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Sure, here is the ad:

http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-...AdIdZ308816461

The caps I'm referring to are the two (one on each side) at either end of the crown "tube", just below the lower headset race.

To be honest, Raleighs (although the fork on a Pashley seems similar) are the only bicycles I've seen with these details.
P_M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-11, 03:10 PM   #2364
Amesja
Cottered Crank
 
Amesja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
Posts: 3,496
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Someone on PayBay usually has some thimbles for sale. They are not unobtanium. I wouldn't worry too much about rust forming inside the forks. They are going to rust inside regardless of if there is a thimble installed or not. Condensation will pretty much gaurantee that there is some moisture in there at least some of the time. It's not going to be a big deal. If one is worried about it then squirt some 3 in 1 into the weep holes and let the bike sit upside down for a while. It's about the only thing that crap is good for anyhow as a poor-man's frame-saver.
Amesja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-11, 03:13 PM   #2365
P_M 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Bikes: Devinci Tosca S
Posts: 169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Thanks Amesja. Hopefully this works out. My girlfriend will be getting a new bike if it does.
P_M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-11, 03:16 PM   #2366
Amesja
Cottered Crank
 
Amesja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
Posts: 3,496
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Unless the frame is totally bent out of shape and destroyed just about any basket-case Raleigh Sports can be restored to its former glory for under $100 in parts. Maybe a bit more if you want to make it really "nice" and fresh looking. Or go all out and put alloy rims on it and new spokes for another $100 or so. The parts are pretty robust. Usually the only difficulty I've found is sourcing the upper headset nut/race since it is 26tpi. But if you want to spend $20 for a new fork and headset you can just dump them for new.
Amesja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-11, 03:31 PM   #2367
wahoonc
Senior Member
 
wahoonc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Posts: 16,687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Those "caps" are known as thimbles and they do go missing occasionally, Flea bay or someone's parts bin is the first place to look for replacements.

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-11, 04:02 PM   #2368
P_M 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Bikes: Devinci Tosca S
Posts: 169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
You know, I searched for every term I could think of and thimble was not one of them. Thanks for steering me in the right direction.
P_M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-11, 12:26 PM   #2369
robertob
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA USA
Bikes:
Posts: 138
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhm View Post
Get Koolstop brake pads and the brakes will be much better.

Switch out the Lauterwasser bar for a Northroad bar. This will make your wife happy. Sell the Lauterwasser bar on ebay; it should bring a couple hundred bucks.
Yeah I'm going to swap it out, but I might try it on my 30s Raleigh Sports just to see what it's like.
robertob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-11, 12:27 PM   #2370
robertob
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Long Beach, CA USA
Bikes:
Posts: 138
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yeah the more I ride my sports the less I like North Roads, at least upright - there just aren't any comfy hand positions.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Mills View Post
I put North Roads bars on my commuter. I like them more than the straight, flat mountain bike bars they replaces but they are not my favorite. They curve to the rear and you hands are almost parallel to the top tube and are very close to you (poor leverage when climbing). You have a very erect posture. I was thinking something a little more Albatross-ish would be better.
robertob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-11, 02:26 PM   #2371
graywolf
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Boone NC USA
Bikes: Bianchi hybrid. Dunelt 3-sp. Raleigh basket case. Wanting a Roadster.
Posts: 622
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by auchencrow View Post
Someone will be very happy to snag those, ohjonnybegoode. The 23-inchers seem especially difficult to find. I don't know why, but they are far less common than the 21" models, in my experience.
Actually, it is because most were bought for kids. I do not think the 25 inch frames were ever imported into the USA. What you did not know they even made a 25 inch frame?
graywolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-11, 08:41 PM   #2372
graywolf
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Boone NC USA
Bikes: Bianchi hybrid. Dunelt 3-sp. Raleigh basket case. Wanting a Roadster.
Posts: 622
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
I find plenty of 19" step through frames. Also FWIW the average height of men in the US in the 1970's was about 5'-9"...guess what sized Raleigh they would be riding?

Aaron
(GRIN) A 23 inch frame if they were smart. Actually, most 3-speeds in the 1970's were probably bought by college students & retired folks. Kids all wanted "Tens", as they called them. Gainfully employed adults probably wanted 10-speeds too, but not the cheap ones. In actuallity, a properly sized 3-speed sport would be about 2 inches bigger than a properly sized dropped bar road bike when you take into consideration the slacker frame angles and the smaller diameter tires.

Prior to the 1970's no one even considered being able to straddle the top tube being important. Any boy who did not want to be called a sissy did a flying mount and dismount, and any adult bicyclist (not very common in the USA) learned to ride as a kid. Girls were delicate things and did not count, besides their bicycles did not have top bars anyway. The simple fact was that 99.9% of the "English Racers" (what any self-respecting kid called his 3-speed) were sold for kids, and that meant 19" girls, and 21" boys models. Mostly the larger bike were only sold in university towns for college students, who were not allowed to have cars on campus (especially freshmen), which is why most of those larger bikes are found in those areas today.

PS: My I got my first 3-speed in 53, I think, when I was 9 or 10.

Last edited by graywolf; 09-01-11 at 08:50 PM. Reason: added PS
graywolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-11, 06:18 AM   #2373
auchencrow 
Senior Member
 
auchencrow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit
Bikes:
Posts: 10,330
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by graywolf View Post
(GRIN) A 23 inch frame if they were smart. Actually, most 3-speeds in the 1970's were probably bought by college students & retired folks. Kids all wanted "Tens", as they called them. Gainfully employed adults probably wanted 10-speeds too, but not the cheap ones. In actuallity, a properly sized 3-speed sport would be about 2 inches bigger than a properly sized dropped bar road bike when you take into consideration the slacker frame angles and the smaller diameter tires.

Prior to the 1970's no one even considered being able to straddle the top tube being important. Any boy who did not want to be called a sissy did a flying mount and dismount, and any adult bicyclist (not very common in the USA) learned to ride as a kid. Girls were delicate things and did not count, besides their bicycles did not have top bars anyway. The simple fact was that 99.9% of the "English Racers" (what any self-respecting kid called his 3-speed) were sold for kids, and that meant 19" girls, and 21" boys models. Mostly the larger bike were only sold in university towns for college students, who were not allowed to have cars on campus (especially freshmen), which is why most of those larger bikes are found in those areas today.

PS: My I got my first 3-speed in 53, I think, when I was 9 or 10.
This sounds entirely plausible, because now that you mention it, I too cannot recall any fixation on "stand-over height" either. - So what we might consider a small adult-sized bike today, could well have been intended for a child.

-Indeed, it is more likely that mom and dad would have purchased a 21" frame for their nine or ten year-old (average height 4'2"), so he could "grow into" it (like his shoes).
__________________
- Auchen
auchencrow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-11, 09:17 AM   #2374
Sixty Fiver
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Bikes: See my sig...
Posts: 27,262
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
New three speed...

Attached Images
File Type: jpg norcowb1.jpg (100.9 KB, 90 views)
Sixty Fiver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-11, 09:30 AM   #2375
Amesja
Cottered Crank
 
Amesja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
Posts: 3,496
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
My dad bought my (now) 21" Sports in '54 brand new at the LBS when he was 13 with his own paper-route money. I'm sure that at his age the stand-over was about 3" too high to straddle. He soon grew into it as I'm sure was his plan.
Amesja is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:09 AM.