For the love of English 3 speeds...
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I love the Lenton Clubman! I believe it's the one Albert Finney was riding in Saturday Night and Sunday Morning: Film clip
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Phyllo-buster
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I've had one Lenton Clubman (49?) which was a 'rescue bike' from a courier shop, all decked out with modern fixie crap. It actually rode great with 700c wheels but I stripped it down to the frame. I never did the restoration on it and recently sold it to a forum member who will hopefully do better than I. I also had a complete Lenton Sports from 48 which was essentially the same bike. It was stable and fun but sometimes a bike is as only as good as it's wheelset and quality EA1 tires are getting very hard to find. I'd certainly consider putting 700's on one if I didn't have EA1 wheels and rubber. But I do...
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I have a '49 Clubman--I believe that the Lenton Clubman was only made in 1948. My '49 has EA1/597mm wheels (with original alloy rims). I've ridden it quite a bit, including over some crazy hilly terrain out in western Mass. I set it up with upright bars when I first got it as a chronic neck problem made that more comfortable for me. Last year, I converted it to drop bars, but that really reduced brake leverage (essentially, the brakes were just suggestions for stopping), so I went back to upright bars. It did look cooler with drop bars, however:
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As far as penetrating liquids, this chart is something to think about:
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I consider the pre-Raleigh Dunelts to be equal to the Raleighs in every way. Raleigh dumbed them down a bit to the B-level. I sold a pristine 55 Dunelt that would knock your long woolen socks off but I still have a pre-war example that I rode hard as a rattle-can, one speed scorcher. It will soon live again.
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I have a '49 Clubman--I believe that the Lenton Clubman was only made in 1948. My '49 has EA1/597mm wheels (with original alloy rims). I've ridden it quite a bit, including over some crazy hilly terrain out in western Mass. I set it up with upright bars when I first got it as a chronic neck problem made that more comfortable for me. Last year, I converted it to drop bars, but that really reduced brake leverage (essentially, the brakes were just suggestions for stopping), so I went back to upright bars. It did look cooler with drop bars, however:
I'd forgotten that the Lenton Clubman catalogue pic I posted was not correct, it's got the Lenton Sports decal scheme. My Lenton Clubman was the same as yours.
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That's very interesting. I would have guessed that the PB would have beat Liquid wrench, but I don't have any standard to measure it against. Only my years of fighting with stuck parts. I'm also surprised that the home brew did so much better than the commercial oils. I've been using it for years, mostly to save money, but I have noticed that it is very effective.
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Kinda interesting: Raleigh Sports equiped with Garelli Mosquito motor for sale:
Moped 1951 Raleigh Sports Mini "Baby" Mosquito
Moped 1951 Raleigh Sports Mini "Baby" Mosquito
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Designing in rounded edges that would want to cam any tool you are using outward is just plain stupid. It's like putting rounded edges on a nut. I'm filing this under dumb SA 70s ideas like eliminating the nut on pulley clips and plastic trigger covers that always cracked.
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Velocivixen, this one's for you?
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5576942314.html
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5576942314.html
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Velocivixen, this one's for you?
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5576942314.html
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5576942314.html
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From what I can see in the pictures, it seems to be in great condition. Late 60s or early 70s I'd say. I don't know anything about folders, but I'm always scanning for new Raleigh projects and I see these RSWs come up from time to time. They're always asking in the 300 dollar range in this sort of condition which surprises me. I wouldn't want one. I can see a 20, but a 16" ? Can't go by asking prices really, but they must have a following.
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@slowtostart - interesting bike. I live on the very west coast of the US, so South Jersey would be a bit of a drive.
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What is the advantage or disadvantage of routing the shift cable amlong the TT and then down a seat stay vs along the down tube and wheel stay? Seems the down tube routing would be preferred but I see older bikes with the diamond frame tend to run along the top tube.
Last edited by Loose Chain; 05-21-16 at 10:17 AM.
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What is the advantage or disadvantage of routing the shift cable amlong the TT and then down a seat stay vs along the down tube and wheel stay? Seems the down tube routing would be preferred but I see older bikes with the diamond frame tend to run along the top tube.
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From what I can see in the pictures, it seems to be in great condition. Late 60s or early 70s I'd say. I don't know anything about folders, but I'm always scanning for new Raleigh projects and I see these RSWs come up from time to time. They're always asking in the 300 dollar range in this sort of condition which surprises me. I wouldn't want one. I can see a 20, but a 16" ? Can't go by asking prices really, but they must have a following.
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I am not sure I understand the appeal of a bike that barely folds? I would love something that si small and light that I could toss in the back of past and future airplanes I may own but otherwise, why? They are kinda cute though.
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Last edited by w1gfh; 05-21-16 at 02:00 PM.
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Hello,
just an update, used a punch and a hammer, together with a product called "Rost-Schock": WEICON Rost-Schock (Spray).
This cools down the material instantly, while inserting its stuff by capillary action, they call it "chemical wrench". The idea with hydraulic fluid and acetone is also very good, will try this next time.
Also thanks for the table with the different fluids and what they achieve .. good bye WD-40
Was able to open it, innards look good. Will oil and assemble it thoroughly tomorrow, and post the outcome.
Thanks all,
Kai
just an update, used a punch and a hammer, together with a product called "Rost-Schock": WEICON Rost-Schock (Spray).
This cools down the material instantly, while inserting its stuff by capillary action, they call it "chemical wrench". The idea with hydraulic fluid and acetone is also very good, will try this next time.
Also thanks for the table with the different fluids and what they achieve .. good bye WD-40
Was able to open it, innards look good. Will oil and assemble it thoroughly tomorrow, and post the outcome.
Thanks all,
Kai