Show us your Raleigh Super Course!
#901
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Just fixed my '72 Super Course which was a different bike about a year ago on this thread. I guess I just can't leave well enough alone.
Anyway, flip flop rear wheel, wood fenders, slightly dinged up B17, really dinged up paint, hard, skinny tires; all the good hipster claptrap on this one. If I rode this thing around in Williamsburg I'd practically be a celebrity. Here she is posing on a frigid fall morning (9am already and it's barely 50 degrees!) on the local public pier.
Sure, lots of guys can say they have artisanal wood fenders on their vintage fixies. A few can even say they made them themselves. How many can say they made them from wood they personally cut on their own woodlot? Well, me for one. [/pats self on back/gives self high five] Don't forget those wood-dowel fender stays. Fragile? Maybe. but at three for a dollar materials cost, I can afford to make a few spares. Ha, I should hand-craft a little leather quiver to carry a few on the bike at all times, like spare spokes. Pass me a pumpkin-spice latte and some artisanal goat cheese, all this smugness is making me hungry.
Oh, and artisanal mounting hardware crafted from the finest 6061 1/8" aluminum flat stock.
The 'finishing tape' is actually an underlayer of green hockey tape I used to make the bars a little chunkier, and the color was right. If you buy Velox Tressostar cloth bar tape, keep in mind they are pretty stingy with the length; wrapping from the stem down, I barely made it to the ends with the rolls I had, using very little overlap.
Lots of space under those fenders to put some beefier tires, I'm thinking 28s would be good, when I get around to ordering some. Extra-long brake cable housings are handy for snagging low flying seagulls which are my main form sustenance these days. Actually, they were the ones that came on the bike, and I didn't really notice how long the were until I started wrapping the bars. Typical of how much thoughtfulness and precision goes into my builds. I'll probably find some brown cable housing someday, and run it a bit shorter.
Anyway, flip flop rear wheel, wood fenders, slightly dinged up B17, really dinged up paint, hard, skinny tires; all the good hipster claptrap on this one. If I rode this thing around in Williamsburg I'd practically be a celebrity. Here she is posing on a frigid fall morning (9am already and it's barely 50 degrees!) on the local public pier.
Sure, lots of guys can say they have artisanal wood fenders on their vintage fixies. A few can even say they made them themselves. How many can say they made them from wood they personally cut on their own woodlot? Well, me for one. [/pats self on back/gives self high five] Don't forget those wood-dowel fender stays. Fragile? Maybe. but at three for a dollar materials cost, I can afford to make a few spares. Ha, I should hand-craft a little leather quiver to carry a few on the bike at all times, like spare spokes. Pass me a pumpkin-spice latte and some artisanal goat cheese, all this smugness is making me hungry.
Oh, and artisanal mounting hardware crafted from the finest 6061 1/8" aluminum flat stock.
The 'finishing tape' is actually an underlayer of green hockey tape I used to make the bars a little chunkier, and the color was right. If you buy Velox Tressostar cloth bar tape, keep in mind they are pretty stingy with the length; wrapping from the stem down, I barely made it to the ends with the rolls I had, using very little overlap.
Lots of space under those fenders to put some beefier tires, I'm thinking 28s would be good, when I get around to ordering some. Extra-long brake cable housings are handy for snagging low flying seagulls which are my main form sustenance these days. Actually, they were the ones that came on the bike, and I didn't really notice how long the were until I started wrapping the bars. Typical of how much thoughtfulness and precision goes into my builds. I'll probably find some brown cable housing someday, and run it a bit shorter.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 11-08-14 at 12:36 PM.
#902
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"better than it needs to be" applies again!
#903
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Nice artisanal work, @Lascauxcaveman! I have made my own wooden fenders, but my starting point was the wood bin at home depot. And those wooden stays are an interesting component. I'd think they'd be effective as break-away components!
#904
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^ Glad you like 'em. They may not be quite as fragile as they look. The threaded parts were all flooded pre-assembly with gloss varnish (Minwax Polyurethane) so as to be more waterproof and little harder to strip. The first batch I made, I also coated the skinny ends with clear epoxy to make them so they wouldn't crack. I couldn't find those original ones when I put all this together, so I'll just make some backups with epoxy dip and have them ready to go if needed. (Though probably not stored in a little artisanal hand-tooled leather quiver.)
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 11-08-14 at 07:27 PM.
#906
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^ Glad you like 'em. They may not be quite as fragile as they look. The threaded parts were all flooded pre-assembly with gloss varnish (Minwax Polyurethane) so as to be more waterproof and little harder to strip. The first batch I made, I also coated the skinny ends with clear epoxy to make them so they wouldn't crack. I couldn't find those original ones when I put all this together, so I'll just make some backups with epoxy dip and have them ready to go if needed. (Though probably not stored in a little artisanal hand-tooled leather quiver.)
#907
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^Ahh! I get it. The stays are definitely weaker than the fenders themselves, in my case. A feature, not a bug. Breaking things is second nature with me.
The fenders are effectively 5/16" plywood encased in a hard plastic coating, so they're pretty darn tough.
The fenders are effectively 5/16" plywood encased in a hard plastic coating, so they're pretty darn tough.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 11-08-14 at 08:39 PM.
#908
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BTW, here's a pick of the alu fender that got rolled up on an off-road ride. The bike is a Super Course MkII, so appropriate for this thread! I rolled down the fender and kept riding it that season until it cracked in half at the folding point.
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Oh, don't jump to conclusions that I disposed of that fender. On the contrary, I kept part as a stylin' shorty fender in a nod to @Velognome's favorite aesthetic and the other I flattened and reshaped into an aluminum keepsake box, which is now for sale on Etsy.
#911
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Oh, don't jump to conclusions that I disposed of that fender. On the contrary, I kept part as a stylin' shorty fender in a nod to @Velognome's favorite aesthetic and the other I flattened and reshaped into an aluminum keepsake box, which is now for sale on Etsy.
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#913
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Oooh Ahhh.
Nice one. And concaves are wonderful ridiing rims!
(Now all you need to do is to rout those cables behind the bars so they flow more naturally).
BTW - How do you like your Avocet saddle? I usually like Brooks mostly, but I have that same one on my Green '72 SC, and my tush likes it a lot.
Nice one. And concaves are wonderful ridiing rims!
(Now all you need to do is to rout those cables behind the bars so they flow more naturally).
BTW - How do you like your Avocet saddle? I usually like Brooks mostly, but I have that same one on my Green '72 SC, and my tush likes it a lot.
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Thanks Auchencrow. I will reroute those cables. I have the original Brooks and I got another on a Schwinn Super Sport. I much prefer the Avocet for comfort. The Brooks saddles are show pieces
#915
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I acquired this recently and needing assistance placing a date on it. It was sold as a 73, the sn is a 7digit "00" on the rear DO with a shorter sn on the BB shell. The Lugwork is a much simpler version. I is absolutely unscathed and I haven't even started to clean it yet. The FD was supposedly broken immediately after purchase. The Brake pads haven't even seen a serious stop yet.
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I'd guess it's a 1972 or 73 model based on the Reynolds decal, the components, and the Raleigh decals.
#918
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I acquired this recently and needing assistance placing a date on it. It was sold as a 73, the sn is a 7digit "00" on the rear DO with a shorter sn on the BB shell. The Lugwork is a much simpler version. I is absolutely unscathed and I haven't even started to clean it yet. The FD was supposedly broken immediately after purchase. The Brake pads haven't even seen a serious stop yet.
Raleigh Serial Numbers & Charts
It is often very good at helping with dates...
#919
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Got this Super Course and looking for opinions on what to do with it. When I bought it the bike was dirty and dusty from long storage. The story goes that the org owner used it for a back up bike on Ragbrai for a couple years and never needed so it rode on top of a car for several trips across Iowa but not ridden. So when I first saw it my intention was to strip the paint and have an all chrome SC.
I got it home and gave it a bath and found it to be almost mint, as in brand new. Now I am not sure about this paint stripping idea because the org finish and decals are much too nice to scrape away, maybe. Chrome is amazing with no haze, rust or pitting, paint is shiny and bright, components are like new - except for tires and bar tape which I replaced.
Sell, strip, keep it original or?
Pictures are large so click on them for more detail
I got it home and gave it a bath and found it to be almost mint, as in brand new. Now I am not sure about this paint stripping idea because the org finish and decals are much too nice to scrape away, maybe. Chrome is amazing with no haze, rust or pitting, paint is shiny and bright, components are like new - except for tires and bar tape which I replaced.
Sell, strip, keep it original or?
Pictures are large so click on them for more detail
1. It still has the chrome locknut on the headset. An aged bike will usually show signs of wear here. Often, like me, the owner will replace it with a new locknut that will accept a regular wrench.
2. It still has the original, silver OEM brake cables and brakes. I ended up replacing these with Ultegras for ease of service.
3. Take a look, but it probably has the original Araya wheels. Mine had a low spot at the seam that translated into a pulsing brake, so I replaced these with new Weinmans.
4. And you've still got the original Shimano shifters. Good luck with them. The originals on mine could not keep the chain on a rear cog under load; the chain would begin to wander down to a smaller cog UNLESS the shifter was tightened beyond anything reasonable. So I replaced it with a NOS, Suntour Power Shifter. It was the best and most important change made to the bike.
Anyway - what a fine bike you have there. Hope you'll let us know its current status. Best. DB
#920
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It got one. :-) And it also received a number of other new components as shown below. (I've carefully labeled and stored all the original components.)
1. New Cane Creek brake hoods feel much better to the hand, especially when climbing. About $40.
2. New Ultegra brakes. Easy to service and work great. Expensive, but they do work very well.
3. New Brooks saddle, B17. Black. Brown would also have been fine, I think.
4. New old stock Suntour Power shifters. This is the single best change I could have made to the bike. I can now climb while standing without worrying about the chain wandering down to a smaller rear cog.
5. New front derailleur.
6. New pedals.
7. New rear derailleur.
8. New wheels, to eliminate the brake pulsing of the flawed OEM Arayas.
1. New Cane Creek brake hoods feel much better to the hand, especially when climbing. About $40.
2. New Ultegra brakes. Easy to service and work great. Expensive, but they do work very well.
3. New Brooks saddle, B17. Black. Brown would also have been fine, I think.
4. New old stock Suntour Power shifters. This is the single best change I could have made to the bike. I can now climb while standing without worrying about the chain wandering down to a smaller rear cog.
5. New front derailleur.
6. New pedals.
7. New rear derailleur.
8. New wheels, to eliminate the brake pulsing of the flawed OEM Arayas.
#921
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I like it, except for the unsightly tape under the shifter clamp. It reminds me of the clear plastic covers on Grandma's couch.
#922
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#924
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