Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  

Go Back   > >

Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

User Tag List

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-04-04, 09:18 PM   #1
The Rabbi
Thread Starter
seely's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,088
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Paint and stripping...

I think my Paramount will be torn down for overhaul and paint soon. I am wondering what the best way to go about this is. I'm a mechanic so I have all the tools to take the bike down, but what I am more interested in is where I should go for painting.

I had a frame powdercoated once and was not to impressed with the durability, finish or quality. I want to treat this old steel girl right and get actual paint laid but don't know where I could get it done. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI if anyone knows anything local. I was thinking of having an auto shop do it but am afraid the cost/quality could be prohibitive since I have no "ins" at any body shops and don't know if they would have the know how to paint a bike.

I was wondering about stripping the existing paint. I was thinking of using a angle grider with a wire brush wheel. Anyone think this could be too agressive w/ the lugs? There is some rust on the edges of the lugs and the grinders done a good job on auto body work I've done. I plan on using an automotive epoxy filler to fill in the small rust damaged areas. After grinding I would go back and finish the frame with a good treatment of fine steel wool.

I want to do this right so input is appreciated. Painting myself is not an option since I want durability and high quality!
seely is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-04, 08:39 PM   #2
Senior Member
diddidit's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Michigan
Bikes: Black Ruby, Big Red, and a nameless Schwinn MTB
Posts: 304
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'm surprised you had problems with powdercoat - PC is usually extremely durable since it's baked on. I work for Herman Miller in Spring Lake; all of our stuff is powdercoated and holds up very well.

I'd have to guess that wire brushing would be awfully aggressive - I'd research having it chemically stripped, or possibly sandblasted. Automotive paint shops can mix up any color your want in spray cans, so that might work for you. Another alternative might be marine paints - a 2-part linear polyurethane like Awlgrip would work, provided you have a good clean frame to start with, and do the whole primer routine.

diddidit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-04, 10:43 PM   #3
Glutton for Punishment
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Leandro, CA
Posts: 2,896
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I had the frame of an old BSA motorcycle powder coated, and I was really impressed with the result. Just a couple caveats; it's a fairly thick finish, so you have to be sure to mask any threaded holes, and beware of any other areas that were a tight fit. It's very resistant to scrapes and scratches, but direct impacts -- like a hammer blow -- will make it chip like bathtub porcelain.
mswantak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-04, 10:47 PM   #4
Tom (ex)Builder
twahl's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manassas, VA
Bikes: Specialized Allez
Posts: 2,814
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'm suprised you had bad luck with the powder coat. My brother-in-law does PC work and I've seen him lay down some gorgeous stuff with some outstanding durability. I've seen some poor work as well, so check around if this is an option you'd consider at all. As for having a body shop paint might get a break if you aren't real specific about go ask if they will give you a break on squirting it when they have something in the booth in a color that's close enough for you. I can't give advice on stipping, but I'd think that chemical stipping would be best too.
twahl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-04, 12:45 AM   #5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 15,052
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 337 Post(s)
Good old paint stripper, applied with a wide art brush, sections at a time, worked for me.

Takes the frame down to primer first, then a second application will take it back to bare metal. Usually, you will find very little in the way of grinding or sanding was used on the original frame. The remover means you don't have to work into little nooks and crannies around lugs and the bottom bracket. Wash off with suitable thinners, such as acetone.

If you use a wire brush or sandpaper, you might get scuff marks that will appear through to the final finish, unless the powder coat is thick enough, or you apply several layers of primer and finish back with 1200 or 2400 wet (as in water and dishwashing detergent wet) wet-and-dry paper.

The process, of course, requires patience.

I'd consider applying several coats of clear finish irrespective of whether you go the powdercoat or spray paint route. It adds a degree of durability, I've found, including a little bit more resistance against chipping, and helps maintain the gloss.

The last frame I painted was with a couple of cheap cans of spray enamel over several coats of reasonable quality metal primer, then topped at the end with several coats of clear. Worked well on the MTB considering the lack of care shown by the person I lent it to for 12 months.
Rowan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-04, 04:21 AM   #6
Unfit, fat and forty
SSSwede's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sweden
Bikes: 2 cheapo ghetto ones (hey Sweden is expensive...)
Posts: 143
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Could a hot-air gun work? I have used it on all sorts of apint removal but never on a bike. Could be worth a try.
SSSwede is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-04, 01:21 PM   #7
Boss Hogg
Bike Evangelist
Boss Hogg's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Houston. TX
Bikes: Redline Mono-cog converted to BMX cruzer, 79 Peugeot single speed, Fuji s12-s single speed, Centurion Ironman single speed (see a pattern?)
Posts: 93
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Glass bead blasting does and excellent job and will not damage the metal as long as the pressure is low and the nozzle is held at a good distance from the metal. Masking tape will protect any areas you dont want stripped, and the beads leave a nice surface for priming
Boss Hogg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-04, 04:42 PM   #8
Castiron Perineum
Bockman's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Taking a tip from Siu Blue Wind, I too am typing a lengthy passage of text down here to demonstrate the enormous amount of space available should one wish to use it-- in sharp contrast to the avatar text above this part.
Bikes: '06 Salsa Campeon, '84 Cannondale R1000, 80's Nishiki Ariel
Posts: 1,196
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I agree with the glass beads, although there are a rich varety of blast materials one can use, some very aggressive, some only slightly so (crushed walnut shells, for example, or even common baking soda).

Bockman is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:55 PM.