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Thread: New fork?

  1. #1
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    New fork?

    I've got a Nishiki Colorado mountain bike with a suspension fork...the fork doesn't hold air, and one of the canti studs has been broken off into the mount, with no way of getting it out (it dulled and then blued a diamond tipped drill bit). As a result, I'm looking to go with a new fork, that is preferably cheaper. I'm looking right now at the Tange cromoly forks (~$40), and the cheaper, hi-ten Sun forks (~$20). How much fudge factor can you assume when screwing down the threaded headset? Can it be a little short and still work? My biggest concern is getting one that is way too long. There's no way to put spacers on it to allow it to be screwed down, is there? What would you guys recommend? I don't have the bike with me right now, but it's a 21" frame. Not sure of the head length, but the forks that I've found don't really come in many different steer tube lengths.

    Also, 1" is what I'd need, right? It's got a standard quill stem, so I'm doubting 1-1/8"...
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
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    1978 Raleigh Super Course
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    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


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  2. #2
    Steel is real, baby! frpax's Avatar
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    Too short is bad, I think. Too long is good, in that you can always have it cut to size and re-threaded.

    Does the bike have a quill stem now?

  3. #3
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    You now have a donor bike. For the cost of changing that fork out, you should be able to find a decent MTB used. 21 inch is a pretty big MTB.

  4. #4
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    This is why I wanted to use this bike - it fits me rather well. The reason I wanted to keep this particular bike is that it'd be hard to find a larger MTB in the shape that this one is in (nearly scratch free, mechanically sound) for $40 (the original cost) plus another $30 for a new fork. Makes me sad...
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
    1967 Phillips Sports
    1974 Peugeot UO-8 fixed gear
    1978 Raleigh Super Course
    1981 Schwinn LeTour
    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


    Master of the low end garbajj!

  5. #5
    Senior Member CACycling's Avatar
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    Assuming the bike was originally designed for a suspension fork, a replacement fork should be suspension-corrected to keep the original geometery.

    I know what you mean about finding larger MTBs. Just bought younger son a 21" '91 Diamond Back Topanga that needed tires and some lubing and adjustment but no other parts and paid $120 for it. I probably overpaid but they do not come up around here very often.

  6. #6
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    It was originally designed for a suspension fork, but judging from the original geometry and the riding geometry (rode it around with just the back brake for 10ish miles) on the saggy fork, riding one with a rigid fork would be suitable. I was primarily curious as to how one would go about setting up a bike with a new fork, given a certain head tube length. What ratio would one need for a replacement fork as far as steer tube length vs. head tube length?
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
    1967 Phillips Sports
    1974 Peugeot UO-8 fixed gear
    1978 Raleigh Super Course
    1981 Schwinn LeTour
    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


    Master of the low end garbajj!

  7. #7
    Champion of the Low End Primitive Don's Avatar
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    I have a used tange chrome MTB fork that I'd be willing to give you, Matt. Depends on how long a steer tube you need? If you can measure I can let you know if mine is long enough.
    87 Trek 560EX * 83 Schwinn Traveler * Sanwa SS Conversion * 80s Chicago Schwinn Traveler SS/FG Conversion * 2011 Fuji Sagres 2.0

  8. #8
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    Holy crap, you're my hero! I'll measure the original fork tomorrow and let you know. Thanks!
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
    1967 Phillips Sports
    1974 Peugeot UO-8 fixed gear
    1978 Raleigh Super Course
    1981 Schwinn LeTour
    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


    Master of the low end garbajj!

  9. #9
    Champion of the Low End Primitive Don's Avatar
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    of course I'm 'Mr. Bent Fork' on C&V, so be forewarned : )
    87 Trek 560EX * 83 Schwinn Traveler * Sanwa SS Conversion * 80s Chicago Schwinn Traveler SS/FG Conversion * 2011 Fuji Sagres 2.0

  10. #10
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    Don, I measured it, and it appears to be about 6-3/4" steerer...
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
    1967 Phillips Sports
    1974 Peugeot UO-8 fixed gear
    1978 Raleigh Super Course
    1981 Schwinn LeTour
    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


    Master of the low end garbajj!

  11. #11
    Champion of the Low End Primitive Don's Avatar
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    I measured the fork and it's approximately 8 1/4" from the bottom of the crown race to the top of the steer tube, with about 2" of thread. I'll bring it to Indiana this weekend. Will double check if it's 1" or 1 1/8".
    87 Trek 560EX * 83 Schwinn Traveler * Sanwa SS Conversion * 80s Chicago Schwinn Traveler SS/FG Conversion * 2011 Fuji Sagres 2.0

  12. #12
    perpetually frazzled mickey85's Avatar
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    Sounds good! I won't be in town this weekend, but will next, and hope to get off (I'm working in the Uniform dept. at the Academy for registration. If not, I can ask my dad to swing by. Thanks again!
    1951 Raleigh Lenton Sports
    1967 Phillips Sports
    1974 Peugeot UO-8 fixed gear
    1978 Raleigh Super Course
    1981 Schwinn LeTour
    1984 Nishiki Riviera GT
    1987 Nishiki Modulus
    1988 Fuji Palisade
    1994 Univega Activa Trail (converted to drops)


    Master of the low end garbajj!

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