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  1. #1
    Get on your bikes & ride! xB_Nutt's Avatar
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    Merckx Internal Brake Cable Housing Question

    What's the correct or best way to terminate the ends of the housing that go into the stops on a frame with an internally routed rear brake cable? The diameter of the stops on my Merckx is too small to accept the housing or a ferrule. Do you just trim a few mm of the housing or do they make special ferrules with a reduced diameter to fit? The devil is in the details with me.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    You can get a ferrule that steps down to a smaller diameter. These are usually used on RD cable casing stops at the chainstay. Give it a shot, it might fit.

    Chombi

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    Senior Member bobbycorno's Avatar
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    Or just file the cut ends of the housing off square. Sounds like it's a tight enough fit that ferrules would be redundant. (Also sounds like it wasn't designef for ferrules in the first place.)

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  4. #4
    Senior Member gaucho777's Avatar
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    ^+1 to filing.

    As Sheldon Brown suggests, I'd also recommend filing down the ends of the cables:

    "Even when the housing is cut cleanly, the end is not square and perpendicular, due to the pitch of the spiral. Careful mechanics will grind or file the end of the housing so that it is flat and flush. The best tool for this is a grinding wheel, but it can be done with a file if you don't have access to a grinding wheel.
    When you cut the housing, the end of the plastic liner also gets cut, and often gets squashed flat. You can use a scriber or a sharp awl to open it up and round it out. If you use a grinding wheel to dress the end of the housing, have your scriber right at hand so that you can open up the plastic liner immediately after grinding. The heat from the grinding will partially melt the liner. By sticking the scriber in before it cools off, you can not only round out the end, but the shape of the scriber will actually flare the end a bit for a smoother transition.





    EDIT: Another thought: I wonder if the cables might fit if you trimmed a bit of the outer rubber coating...or Chombi's ferule idea might be a good solution, too. I don't have any personal personal experience this frame, so it's hard to tell without photos.
    Last edited by gaucho777; 06-17-10 at 02:45 PM.
    -Randy

    '70 Cilo Pacer | '73 Ron Kitching/Speedwell Ti | '74 Nishiki Competition | '74 Peugeot UE-8 | '86 Look Equipe "Bernard Hinault" (Reynolds 753) | '89 Park Precision (Team ParkPre/Conejo Velo issue) | '90 Park Precision MTB (Team ParkPre/Conejo Velo issue)

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  5. #5
    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
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    At the moment I'm sitting next to one of those Merckx frames and you need to either use a step down ferrul or trim back the plastic covering and insert the bare inner metal wire part into the frame. Grinding/filing the end as mentioned in the Sheldon link will NOT solve this particular issue.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member gaucho777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
    At the moment I'm sitting next to one of those Merckx frames and you need to either use a step down ferrul or trim back the plastic covering and insert the bare inner metal wire part into the frame. Grinding/filing the end as mentioned in the Sheldon link will NOT solve this particular issue.
    Right you are. I realized this after my initial post and then added the "EDIT" comment about trimming the rubber coating. Nonetheless, I'd still suggest filing the ends of the cables, especially when you have multiple cable segments for internal routing.
    -Randy

    '70 Cilo Pacer | '73 Ron Kitching/Speedwell Ti | '74 Nishiki Competition | '74 Peugeot UE-8 | '86 Look Equipe "Bernard Hinault" (Reynolds 753) | '89 Park Precision (Team ParkPre/Conejo Velo issue) | '90 Park Precision MTB (Team ParkPre/Conejo Velo issue)

    Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.

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