Questions about Centurion Pro Tour
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Questions about Centurion Pro Tour
I'm going to look at one tomorrow, and except for the handlebar job it appears to be in good condition. I do not know much about them though so I am hoping to get some input from you fine people. Its Champion #2 butted tubing and according to the seller it has Shimano 200 RD and Suntour Cyclone MII FD. I see that the front fork has double eyelets, cantilever brakes, and plenty of water bottle bosses but how does it compare with other tourers of its time? The price is right on this one too...
https://https://buffalo.craigslist.org...825708796.html
https://https://buffalo.craigslist.org...825708796.html
#2
Senior Member
They compare very well. I have a much earlier version which is quite different, but I love it. jtsgotjets will probably chime in. He has one from the same period as this one.
It's unfortunate that it lost its drop handlebars. Make sure you see how they set up the cockpit, since people did some crazy things to make bikes more comfortable at that time on the cheap.
It's unfortunate that it lost its drop handlebars. Make sure you see how they set up the cockpit, since people did some crazy things to make bikes more comfortable at that time on the cheap.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It does suck not having th original bars, but I have some Custom Champions lying around and if I get it the bike will most likely get the rando treatment. I do wish it was a more exciting color though...
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well I just got back from looking at it, but could not commit on it tonight. It was definitey an early eighties with a Shimano 200 RD and Cyclone MII FD, But it was what was missing that bothered me.
If you guys can gals can offer me some advice and opinions I would be much obliged.
The Cons:
A) The stock rack- It had a replacement Pletcher rack on it that would have to go , but can I get a new one that would fit in the bosses above the brake bridge?
B)The handlebars- I have a spare set of Sakae Custom Champions that would fit but I think I would want wider ones.
C)Shifters- The original owner took of the originals and put Suntour power shifters on the stem. Can these same ones be mounted back on the downtube boss until I acquire funding for barcons?
D) The paint- At some point the owner touched up the black paint in spots with a rattle can and you can definitely tell.
The Pros-
A) Its an actual tourer and it fits me, and its got plenty of eyelets and bottle bosses and all the good stuff good tourers have.
B) I have access to a sand blaster on my Navy base that will fit the frame in it, as well as an air compressor with a paint sprayer-although I have never done either of these before.
C) The price- Not counting what I would have to do to it I can get it for less than 75 bucks.
D) The ride- Considering what was done to it, the bike rides silent, true, and not to stiff. Also shifts beautifully.
What do you guys think? Is this worth the effort? Should I wait? Your thoughts and opinions are welcome.
EDIT: bythe way does anyone have a link to the Centurion catalogs?
If you guys can gals can offer me some advice and opinions I would be much obliged.
The Cons:
A) The stock rack- It had a replacement Pletcher rack on it that would have to go , but can I get a new one that would fit in the bosses above the brake bridge?
B)The handlebars- I have a spare set of Sakae Custom Champions that would fit but I think I would want wider ones.
C)Shifters- The original owner took of the originals and put Suntour power shifters on the stem. Can these same ones be mounted back on the downtube boss until I acquire funding for barcons?
D) The paint- At some point the owner touched up the black paint in spots with a rattle can and you can definitely tell.
The Pros-
A) Its an actual tourer and it fits me, and its got plenty of eyelets and bottle bosses and all the good stuff good tourers have.
B) I have access to a sand blaster on my Navy base that will fit the frame in it, as well as an air compressor with a paint sprayer-although I have never done either of these before.
C) The price- Not counting what I would have to do to it I can get it for less than 75 bucks.
D) The ride- Considering what was done to it, the bike rides silent, true, and not to stiff. Also shifts beautifully.
What do you guys think? Is this worth the effort? Should I wait? Your thoughts and opinions are welcome.
EDIT: bythe way does anyone have a link to the Centurion catalogs?
Last edited by jish1969; 07-09-10 at 06:21 PM.
#6
Dropped
That's one you buy now and ask questions about later. Even with a poor paint job the frame alone is probably worth $100. Heck, the Sugino AT can go for $75 if in excellent condition. The only Centurion catalog I'm aware of online is here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/centurio...0pro-tour.html. That's linked from BF Member A.Winthrop's Centurion page on sheldonbrown.com: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/centurion/index.html
The example you're considering is a later model but every bit as good.
The shifter clamp won't fit your downtube, and I think you'll need backing plates with a stop if you want to mount them to the DT bosses - so no, I don't think you can move them. Unless the backing plates are removable from the stem clamp, in which case it might work.
The bars are no big deal, easy enough to swap out. Yes you can find a rack that fits, but it might take some looking. You can always opt for a rack with a center mount arm to affix to the hole in the seat stay bridge.
It is a really nice ride. The only difference between it and other tourers of the day is that the chainstays are slightly shorter at 43cm, especially compared to the monster 47cm of the Trek 720. For some, this causes foot strike with fully loaded rear bags, but there are ways to avoid that, and if you don't have very big feet, it's probably not a big deal. The 43cm chainstays will actually make it climb better with less flex, which can be an advantage. The only other potential downside is if you want to convert to 700c rims (or does that model have 700c?). The canti bosses on the fork are very narrow (do some searches on brake issues) which makes adjusting the brakes on a conversion a bit of a challenge.
Here's one I built up but traded recently:
The example you're considering is a later model but every bit as good.
The shifter clamp won't fit your downtube, and I think you'll need backing plates with a stop if you want to mount them to the DT bosses - so no, I don't think you can move them. Unless the backing plates are removable from the stem clamp, in which case it might work.
The bars are no big deal, easy enough to swap out. Yes you can find a rack that fits, but it might take some looking. You can always opt for a rack with a center mount arm to affix to the hole in the seat stay bridge.
It is a really nice ride. The only difference between it and other tourers of the day is that the chainstays are slightly shorter at 43cm, especially compared to the monster 47cm of the Trek 720. For some, this causes foot strike with fully loaded rear bags, but there are ways to avoid that, and if you don't have very big feet, it's probably not a big deal. The 43cm chainstays will actually make it climb better with less flex, which can be an advantage. The only other potential downside is if you want to convert to 700c rims (or does that model have 700c?). The canti bosses on the fork are very narrow (do some searches on brake issues) which makes adjusting the brakes on a conversion a bit of a challenge.
Here's one I built up but traded recently:
#7
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Pro Tour for $75 = Instant buy, in my hands, into the van immediately regardless of any/all defects.
If you want to paint it, I would get it powdercoated. Read up on painting a bicycle frame. There is a lot of prep work, and it takes quite a bit of skill to get it right. I would save money by doing the wrenching myself instead.
If you want to paint it, I would get it powdercoated. Read up on painting a bicycle frame. There is a lot of prep work, and it takes quite a bit of skill to get it right. I would save money by doing the wrenching myself instead.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What was weird about the Suntour shifters was that the mounting bolt was right in the center of the "hump", so I thought that it may fit right over the single boss on the downtube(definitely a Suntour thing). Also, from what I gather the best fit for a tourer is for it to be only slightly smaller than one would usually ride, right? I know I am being uber-inquisitive, but I have been on the hunt for a good tourer for a long time and if it stops here then thank god...hehe. I've gotten over the paint issue I I am quite confident that I can repaint it in a nice earthy color while maintaining the chrome. The guy said he will save it for me tomorrow so there will be better pics to follow up with. BTW Junkyardbike are you sure this one is a newer model than 84 and not earlier? I was examining the 84 catalog last night and this bike just seemed older to me...Oh yeah and what shifters were on that blue one?
Last edited by jish1969; 07-09-10 at 08:33 PM.
#9
Senior Member
That mount is Suntour specific but it can be modified to work with bar-ends if you wish. I think the original shifters were the symmetric ones, whatever they were called. The FD shifter was supposed to trim itself automatically when the rear was shifted.
I've modified this setup to work with cable stops so I know it can be done without damaging the original mount.
+1 on 'just buy it'. Unless there is some nasty frame damage that is a screaming deal.
I've modified this setup to work with cable stops so I know it can be done without damaging the original mount.
+1 on 'just buy it'. Unless there is some nasty frame damage that is a screaming deal.
#10
Dropped
If yours has the center 'aero-mount' then it was originally equipped with Suntour Symmetric shifters:
I thought I was seeing tradition downtube bosses in the ad photo, but I guess not. Mine was a 15 speed, with 5 on the back. If yours is an 18 speed, and the 6 on the back is original, yours is later. I also think the Sugino AT was later than the Aerox, which came on my '83 and the catalog '84 model. Mine was a half-step ring setup, and the one you're looking at is a wide range setup, which came later. It's possible the AT crank is not original, but I doubt it.
Here's what was on mine:
I thought I was seeing tradition downtube bosses in the ad photo, but I guess not. Mine was a 15 speed, with 5 on the back. If yours is an 18 speed, and the 6 on the back is original, yours is later. I also think the Sugino AT was later than the Aerox, which came on my '83 and the catalog '84 model. Mine was a half-step ring setup, and the one you're looking at is a wide range setup, which came later. It's possible the AT crank is not original, but I doubt it.
Here's what was on mine:
#11
Dropped
#12
Dropped
Oh, and on fit, I wouldn't go smaller than you're comfortable with. Get what fits. The smaller you go, the lower the bars (unless you jack them up like in my pic), and lower bars over longer distances can be uncomfortable for some.
#13
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There are probably ten people from this forum who are waiting for the owner's offer to you to expire before they contact him themselves. I am one of them--it would be a nice stablemate to my Turbo. Save me the domestic strife and buy the bike!
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#14
Dropped
Have to give him credit for restraint, though. He's looking for something that will work for him. Of course, as you and others have ably pointed out, bargains don't usually last on CL for long. Sometimes it works to your advantage to 'grow' your capital until you find what you really need/want.
#15
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Thread Starter
Well this was fun for a minute... I call the guy back this morning and we agree to a sale and I tell him I will be there at 9 tonight, he says no problem. I borrow a car, I am on my way, and I get the phone call that we all love to hear- "Hey I just sold the bike buddy so you dont have to come up here"... #$%& that. Perhaps it was a good thing since I thought twice about it in the first place but how petty.
Last edited by jish1969; 07-10-10 at 07:41 PM.
#16
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I never think I have hit hard, unless it rebounds.
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