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  1. #1
    Learning to Roll hamanu23's Avatar
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    Possible 1972 Centurion?

    I believe I have a 1972 Centurion, The serial number is N-followed by 4 numbers the first is a 2.

    I am planning to restore this bike and replace the current 1970's Suntour components with Suntour Superbre components. I am also going to powder coat the frame the orignal orange. This will mean I lose all the original sticker decals... Should I do this?

    As of right now the frame has spots of rust and black spray paint on it.

    CENTURION 008..jpgCENTURION 007..jpgCENTURION 001..JPGCENTURION 004..jpg

  2. #2
    )) <> (( illwafer's Avatar
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    do it. i agree to repaint the original orange if you can.

    i had that exact bike for a few days. it looks really great. i thought mine was a 1975.
    Last edited by illwafer; 07-25-10 at 09:22 PM.

  3. #3
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    Do what you want, but whats wrong with the current set of components? They seem appropriate for the bike, and most likely original to the bike. Paint would be good, but I think you will loose all the nice chrome if you powdercoat. Maybe a auto body shop could give it a spray, after you mask off all the chrome bits.

  4. #4
    old and fixed... clubman's Avatar
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    Paint...save the chrome...duplicate the decals. A few upgrades wouldn't hurt the bike (brake levers/seat post) but all Superbe may be overkill. Or not, it's your bike.

  5. #5
    Senior Member DiegoFrogs's Avatar
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    The seatpost on that is probably a very nice Japanese copy of the two-bolt Campagnolo posts. I'd keep it, if it is.

  6. #6
    old and fixed... clubman's Avatar
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    I wondered...looks like a separate seatclamp from this extreme distance. Love the 2 bolt SR Royals and Customs.

  7. #7
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    The early Centurions almost changed spec every shipment, the OP's bike is below the later image in the price point level, but still not bad, a decent bike, but I would not lavish $ on it, just some labor, unless you ride it and it is just tops for you, clearances will be for 27" wheels. I would only color sand the black rattlecan off of it too.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    forks 004..jpgforks 001..jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by repechage View Post
    .....I would only color sand the black rattlecan off of it too.
    If you get really lucky you can find an automotive touch-up paint that will match. I was able to find a good match for a Nishiki and the results were outstanding; saved an entire repaint and loss of the original decals.....
    Thumpic....

    Green is the new "CHEAP"

  9. #9
    Learning to Roll hamanu23's Avatar
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    great idea

    Quote Originally Posted by Thumpic View Post
    forks 004..jpgforks 001..jpg

    If you get really lucky you can find an automotive touch-up paint that will match. I was able to find a good match for a Nishiki and the results were outstanding; saved an entire repaint and loss of the original decals.....
    Thanks I really appreciate that advice I will! Yours looks great!


    It is possible to sand off the spraypaint and keep the paint under it? I guess I don't know what color sanding is...

  10. #10
    Learning to Roll hamanu23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by repechage View Post
    The early Centurions almost changed spec every shipment, the OP's bike is below the later image in the price point level, but still not bad, a decent bike, but I would not lavish $ on it, just some labor, unless you ride it and it is just tops for you, clearances will be for 27" wheels. I would only color sand the black rattlecan off of it too.
    I found the rear derailer to be the top of the line for this year, also it is my understanding there weren't different trim levels in the early 70's years(I believe the fenders on mine are original.) I could be wrong though I was going off sheldonbrown's website.
    Last edited by hamanu23; 07-26-10 at 09:11 AM.

  11. #11
    Learning to Roll hamanu23's Avatar
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    CENTURION 002..jpgCENTURION 001..jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by DiegoFrogs View Post
    The seatpost on that is probably a very nice Japanese copy of the two-bolt Campagnolo posts. I'd keep it, if it is.
    Is this it?

  12. #12
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    That looks like a really basic, straight tube seat post.

    A quality paint job will cost more than the bike is worth. As a keeper, that is OK, as you will get your money out of it riding the bike. Myself, I have a 1976 Centurion Elite in my stash right now, waiting for the cost of powder coating to drop (the bike has terrible paint, most of the graphics are long gone). I bought it as a donor, so I got my value out of it already. I like the details on the 1970s Centurions, but can't justify the cost of a powder coat.

  13. #13
    Learning to Roll hamanu23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
    That looks like a really basic, straight tube seat post.

    A quality paint job will cost more than the bike is worth. As a keeper, that is OK, as you will get your money out of it riding the bike. Myself, I have a 1976 Centurion Elite in my stash right now, waiting for the cost of powder coating to drop (the bike has terrible paint, most of the graphics are long gone). I bought it as a donor, so I got my value out of it already. I like the details on the 1970s Centurions, but can't justify the cost of a powder coat.
    Now that I am getting this advice, I am starting to rethink my plan. I wanted to restore this for a keeper but I don't want to do that with a lame bike.... Powder coating here is only 80$ but I think I will just sand it touch it up and see if I can break even on craigslist and get something cooler to restore.

    After reading about the Centurion I thought a 72 would be sweet but it is ruff... I should have done more research before I bought it I guess live and learn..

  14. #14
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    .....clean/refurbish/stabilize the decals carefully...spray with top coat or whatever clearcoat matches your final coats of frame paint..let them cure as long as possible (weeks are not too long)...somewhere hot and dry.........then mask the decals off BEFORE you start your frame prep. Mask them as lightly and as closely as possible.....mask them for as short amount of time as possible. Do as much of the frame touch up as can at one time; then let that cure as long as possible too. I would "unmask" the decals during the frame cure....even if I had to remask them to do additional touch up (you always miss something).....time and patience are your friends.....

    Duplicolor paint and topcoat.....$20 bucks..........elbow grease; patience and time.....$23,000...........
    Last edited by Thumpic; 07-26-10 at 09:47 AM.
    Thumpic....

    Green is the new "CHEAP"

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