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Old 08-07-10, 05:47 AM   #1
ftwelder
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Dork disk exceptions, exclusions and proper fix.

First off, Flickr has been giving me issues so if there is no image someone will have to spot me.

I have a Raleigh competition GS with Nuovo gran sport three pin cranks. I am sure the disk was intended to be tossed, cast white metal with Chrome. It looks better without the device but I am not going to "rig" fasteners. Can anyone direct me (or offer?) a suitable replacement fastener?

Thanks in advance!

here is the location of the image

http://www.flickr.com/photos/frankth...7624280229774/
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Old 08-07-10, 05:52 AM   #2
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I'm not sure of what you are asking, but here are your pics. Nice looking bike.






To get the image address,

1. Right click the flickr picture and pick a size.

2. Right click the link again and scroll down to "View Image Info"

3. Copy and paste the "Location" and use the "insert image" option for the BF forums. (I have some trouble with this, unless I "Go advanced")

Hope this helps in the future.

Last edited by beech333; 08-07-10 at 05:59 AM.
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Old 08-07-10, 06:35 AM   #3
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You mean the chainring guard. A dork disk would be on the cogs, next to the spokes.

Maybe you just need shorter chainring bolts after removing the guard?

Nice bike--it looks pretty original.
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Old 08-07-10, 06:38 AM   #4
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beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on.
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Old 08-07-10, 09:33 AM   #5
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As chain guards go that's one of the nicer ones I've seen. Really the only ones I actually like are those fancy ones you see occasionally on French touring bikes. But I don't understand the issue. Are you saying the bolts attaching the chainrings won't work if you remove the chain guard?
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Old 08-07-10, 09:37 AM   #6
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Are you looking to add a dork disk to the bike?
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Old 08-07-10, 09:41 AM   #7
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Since he is asking about fasteners, and you dont need any fasteners for a dork disk, I would guess that is what he is looking to do... ditch the chainguard. The bolts probably bottom out without the additional thickness or the guard itself has recesses that the bolt heads go into that are not present on the chainring itself?
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Old 08-07-10, 09:52 AM   #8
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Remove bolts.
Remove chainguard.
Slip washers onto bolts.
Replace bolts.
Am I missing anything?
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Old 08-07-10, 10:08 AM   #9
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beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on.
+1.
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Old 08-07-10, 10:29 AM   #10
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beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on.
Hear, hear.

The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right?

With the chain/pant guard however, the dork factor is debatable, and they DO serve a purpose if you are going to use the bike for any casual/commuting type riding. Plus I think this particular example is really classy looking, as chain guards go.

Do what you want, just make sure you hold on to the chain guard for posterity's sake.

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Old 08-08-10, 02:08 AM   #11
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+1.
OK, it stays..
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Old 08-08-10, 05:37 AM   #12
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Hear, hear.

The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right?


[k]
Right, they serve no purpose except on that rare occasion when they prevent your rear derailleur from catastrophically going into your spokes because it somehow got slightly bent and you didn't know it. Sort of like an air bag on a car--they hardly ever get used.
Not trying to sound high and mighty--l've taken the disks off all of my bikes, too. But I sometimes wonder of that was such a good idea. I guess this is one of those times.
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Old 08-08-10, 06:23 AM   #13
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With regard to the pants guard, aka cuff guard, the answer to this question is easy. What do you use the bike for? If you're riding to the store to get bike parts and you typically wear jeans or pants while riding, leave it on. If you're using it in club rides while wearing lycra shorts, take it off (the cuff guard, not the shorts). It's a functional part, do you need the function? Yes, remains on, NO remove.
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Old 08-08-10, 06:49 AM   #14
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The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right?
I'll disagree with you in one instance: A long-haul serious touring bike. Weight doesn't matter, since you're going to ride loaded. If the look offends, you can't see it under the rear panniers, anyway. And if they just ONCE stop your derailleur from going into the spokes 500 miles from home, they ain't 'dork' anymore.
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Old 08-08-10, 06:54 AM   #15
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I'll disagree with you in one instance: A long-haul serious touring bike. Weight doesn't matter, since you're going to ride loaded. If the look offends, you can't see it under the rear panniers, anyway. And if they just ONCE stop your derailleur from going into the spokes 500 miles from home, they ain't 'dork' anymore.
+1 Besides, I like the look of some chrome ones, like the SRR in my sig.

Last edited by beech333; 08-08-10 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 08-08-10, 09:49 AM   #16
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I keep the metal ones on non-racing bikes. The rest go.

I like the trouser cuff guard things though. I usually ride in street cloths.
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Old 08-08-10, 10:00 AM   #17
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Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes. Pants guards on the crank are kinda cool.
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Old 08-08-10, 11:19 AM   #18
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Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes.
Well, that's a little harsh. They're also for cautious riders who may maintain and adjust their bikes perfectly, but worry more than the rest of us about about an unpredictable and random event (such as another rider bumping into them from behind with a tire) sending the derailleur into the spokes. And they're right, that can and does happen occasionally.
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Old 08-08-10, 07:07 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by dbakl
Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes.

I maintain my bikes vigilantly and have still have had them go out of adjustment with out me noticing right away. I imagine that a long cage system on a fast hard shift could find it's way past the big cog even when adjusted properly.
So I don't know if the term "dork" is truly accurate. Maybe "Errant Adjustment Inhibitory Plate" is more acceptable?
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Old 08-08-10, 07:44 PM   #20
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OK, it stays..
Darn. For a moment there, I thought I might be able to trade it out of your hands

When it comes to chainring dork disks, Campagnolo is the exception; they look great. Ditto for the TA's.

-Kurt
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Old 08-09-10, 07:57 PM   #21
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Besides, I like the look of some chrome ones, like the SRR in my sig.
http://velospace.org/node/31170

Agreed, that is quite snazzy.

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Old 08-10-10, 08:07 AM   #22
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Darn. For a moment there, I thought I might be able to trade it out of your hands

When it comes to chainring dork disks, Campagnolo is the exception; they look great. Ditto for the TA's.

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Old 08-11-10, 01:36 PM   #23
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Pastor Bob, can we see the rest of the Schwinn?

Kurt, don't forget the Stronglight 93 chainguard. It's a toothless chainring.
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Old 08-11-10, 02:13 PM   #24
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Pastor Bob, can we see the rest of the Schwinn?

Kurt, don't forget the Stronglight 93 chainguard. It's a toothless chainring.
Speaking of Kurt, he built the wheels!

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Old 08-11-10, 02:15 PM   #25
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Ooohhhh! That's special!
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