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  1. #1
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    Anyone know about English 3 speeds (+pics)?

    Hey all,
    I've recently become fascinated by vintage bicycles. Have been trying to find as much info as possible about the different types and bought an English 3 speed made by Phillips. I believe that the year is 1968 and it's a sportsman. All original pieces with added 1960's Swiss made rear rack and 1960's Lenton (japanese) headlight. It was originally an English doctor's bike, he gave it to a guy who worked in pharmaceuticals, who sold it to me for $98. Has a few dents and a little rust and gears are broken (but fixable).
    Pics: http://img822.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dscn0759d.jpg
    So, first off, did I get a good deal for what I paid and does anyone who its worth as is or fixed up? I'm not trying to sell it, but am curious. Also anyone know how the headlight works (I believe it is connected to the rear wheel)? Any info would be appreciated...I've found out some stuff in my searches, but still, there is little info out there. Thanks!

  2. #2
    gna
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    Oh, we know about them: For the Love of English 3-speeds

    Have you been to Sheldon Brown yet?

    The bottle generator in back provides power for the headlight. Check the wiring and check your bulb. It should snap on and off the rear tire when you want to use.

    As to value, it depends. Where are you located? A larger men's (23"), such as yours, is worth more.

    Welcome to the forum, BTW.
    Last edited by gna; 08-07-10 at 11:21 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by gna View Post
    Have you been to Sheldon Brown yet?

    The bottle generator in back provides power for the headlight. Check the wiring and check your bulb.

    As to value, it depends. Where are you located? A larger men's (23") is worth more.
    Yep, Sheldon Brown's site was one of the first places I checked, found out some good stuff on there. I'm located in Pennsylvania. Wheels are 26", hub to hub is 42", what should I be measuring? I'm about 6'1" and the bike is large enough for me, without having to adjust the seat. And thanks for the greeting!

  4. #4
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    That is a Raleigh cloned Phillips. Raleigh took over Phillips around 1960. Clean it up and ride it. They are worth what you pay for them. My 3 speeds have ranged in cost from free to around $150 for one that I had wanted for a long time.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

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    Quote Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
    That is a Raleigh cloned Phillips. Raleigh took over Phillips around 1960. Clean it up and ride it. They are worth what you pay for them. My 3 speeds have ranged in cost from free to around $150 for one that I had wanted for a long time.

    Aaron
    I'm going to clean it up, but I've taken it for a few test runs and then all of a sudden I pedal with no movement. I tune up the indicator chain that's connected to the Sturmey Hub, and my problems are fixed for a few more minutes, but then the same thing will happen. Not quite sure how to permanently fix this though...Also, if I take it apart, I'm not sure I'll be able to put it back together...I'm most definitely a newb when it comes to bike repairs.
    Appreciate the help though guys. If I can get it cleaned up, I'll post some pics.

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    Would it be worth it to take this into a bike shop and get a tune up?

  7. #7
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiteflight View Post
    I'm going to clean it up, but I've taken it for a few test runs and then all of a sudden I pedal with no movement. I tune up the indicator chain that's connected to the Sturmey Hub, and my problems are fixed for a few more minutes, but then the same thing will happen. Not quite sure how to permanently fix this though...Also, if I take it apart, I'm not sure I'll be able to put it back together...I'm most definitely a newb when it comes to bike repairs.
    Appreciate the help though guys. If I can get it cleaned up, I'll post some pics.
    Adjust the hub using Sheldon Brown's directions, works in most cases. If it is still a bit sticky you need to wash out the hub using mineral spirits, kerosene or WD 40. Very easy, just add some of the listed stuff to the hub through the oil port, run the hub a bit, turn the oil port down and let it drain out, repeat. Then fill with a decent lightweight oil. Some people prefer ATF. I use whatever is left over from the oil changes on my car and keep it in a pump style oil can. The only oil NOT to use in these hubs is 3 in 1 in the red, black and white can. It is vegetable based and will gum things up. Very, very, very seldom does a 3 speed Sturmey hub need to be pulled down for cleaning or maintenance. A few drops of oil on the shifter would be good and check to make sure your cable is routed over the pulley wheel correctly and that your fulcrum clip still has the insert (that is where the cable housing stops and the bare cable begins. The pulley is either at the top or bottom of your seat tube depending on the cable routing. Dribbling some oil down the cable housing isn't a bad idea either.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  8. #8
    26 tpi nut. sailorbenjamin's Avatar
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    Could be that the cable clamp is slipping. Make sure those are tight.
    I have spoken.

  9. #9
    rhm
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    +1 to both Aaron's and Ben's suggestions. If a Sturmey Archer hub hasn't been used in a while, it will be sluggish for a while. Fresh oil and exercise will help a lot. I mean, put some oil in there and ride it. Shift a lot. The mineral spirits flush that Aaron suggested, but I wouldn't even do that until you've ridden the bike a good bit, like a hundred miles or something. If you do flush the hub with some kind of solvent, you will probably need to put new grease on the ball bearings. That's easy, of course, but I (being lazy) would (preliminarily) avoid it.

    Under what circumstances does the hub slip? There is a trigger position between 2nd and 3rd where the gears do not engage; if your hub is slipping into that position, the problem could be (partially) in the cable or the trigger. I believe your shift cable runs through a housing all the way from the trigger on the handlebar to a fulcrum clip on the chain stay; make sure that housing doesn't have any kinks in it, hasn't been crushed or caught up in the gears etc. A slightly more expensive version of this bike --a "Raleigh" branded one, that is-- would have a different cable style; the housing runs to a fulcrum clip on the top tube, and then the bare wire runs over a pulley wheel just below the seat; this arrangement tends to be a little more foolproof and elegant.

    Your hub presumably has an 18 tooth cog on it. Most of us, who ride old 3-speeds like this, prefer to switch that to a 22 tooth cog. This lowers the gearing a little bit and seems to take about five pounds of weight off the bike.

  10. #10
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailorbenjamin View Post
    Could be that the cable clamp is slipping. Make sure those are tight.
    If everything else is set up properly that fulcrum stop can cause issues if it slips and if things work for a bit and then fail this may be a place to check to make sure this cable stop is snug.

    If the bike has been idle for a long time and the hub has a high clicking noise give it a little sip of oil and take it for a ride... this is usually all it takes to loosen things up.

  11. #11
    Senior Member greengage's Avatar
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    This sounds like exactly the issue I'm having with my '65 Raleigh DL-1--see the thread I started earlier today. Lots of good links--I haven't had time to have a goo yet but the instructions on the Old Bike Blog seem pretty straightforward, even for a noob like myself. Good luck--sounds like a great bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by whiteflight View Post
    I'm going to clean it up, but I've taken it for a few test runs and then all of a sudden I pedal with no movement. I tune up the indicator chain that's connected to the Sturmey Hub, and my problems are fixed for a few more minutes, but then the same thing will happen. Not quite sure how to permanently fix this though...Also, if I take it apart, I'm not sure I'll be able to put it back together...I'm most definitely a newb when it comes to bike repairs.
    Appreciate the help though guys. If I can get it cleaned up, I'll post some pics.
    1932 Raleigh "Utility model"
    1948 Raleigh Sports
    1949 Lenton Sports
    1965 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist
    1965 Raleigh Sports
    1971 Grand Prix

  12. #12
    Senior Member wahoonc's Avatar
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    Just as a side note. I have taken to replacing the fulcrum and the pulley wheels on most of my 3 speeds with the old style steel ones.

    That is what was used by Raleigh prior to about 1964 on the pulley and 1966? on the fulcrum. You can fine OEM stuff of eBay, but I buy mine from ABCE Tour store. It is a small investment that will pay off over the years.

    Aaron
    Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

    ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

    "Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
    RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
    _Nicodemus

    "Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
    Aluminum: barely a hundred
    Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
    _krazygluon

  13. #13
    Senior Member Andrew F's Avatar
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    If the bike has been idle for a long time and the hub has a high clicking noise give it a little sip of oil and take it for a ride... this is usually all it takes to loosen things up.
    May I suggest a few drops or oil for the hub and sip of brandy for the mechanic....Lubrication is vital.

  14. #14
    gna
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiteflight View Post
    Yep, Sheldon Brown's site was one of the first places I checked, found out some good stuff on there. I'm located in Pennsylvania. Wheels are 26", hub to hub is 42", what should I be measuring? I'm about 6'1" and the bike is large enough for me, without having to adjust the seat. And thanks for the greeting!
    Measure the seat tube from the center of the crank to the top of the lug. Men's models are usually 21" and 23"; the 23" seem to be harder to find and thus can command more in price.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew F View Post
    May I suggest a few drops or oil for the hub and sip of brandy for the mechanic....Lubrication is vital.
    Yes, excellent suggestion.

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