22km Tombstone

Hi guys,

I'm a new poster here but I've been lurking a while. A month or so ago I was given this 87 Trek 560 Pro road bike. It fits me perfectly (I don't know what frame size - if I had to guess it'd probably be a 53 or 54cm - not sure what that is in inches). I'm 5'9" or 5'10" ish with a short inseam - 30 or 31" and the standover height is perfect.



I got it for free from a friends' dad. He also got it for free, so he was "paying it forward" which was really nice. He collects bikes, I guess. I mentioned I was looking at buying a road bike but with limited funds, it was difficult. I'm very lucky to have this given to me for free - it's a great bike.

I imagine it doesn't have a whole lot of miles on it based on the condition of the teeth on the chainrings & cogs. It shifts very smoothly, still. The drivetrain is quite dirty, though.





I took it out for a spin around the block and it rides nice. It's in good condition for its age.
It has some paint damage & rust spots but they appear to be minor. The worst of the damage is on the right side of the headtube, and around the right (rear) downtube shifter, and on the front & rear dropouts (expected) - see pic below.





Almost everywhere else on the bike the paint is in great shape:





Other issues are the cables & housings are in dire need of replacement (at least the brake cables - as you can see in the photos, they've been taped up). Shifter cables look newer, though. Some of the spokes look a little questionable - slightly corroded and bent (but not significantly) - should the wheels be rebuilt?

The stem has been replaced with a quill -> threadless adapter, the toe clips have been removed from the pedals, and it has a different saddle. Other than that it looks all original.

I was hoping for some advice on what to do with this bike. I definitely want to keep it as a backup bike and just for tearing around on. My main bike is a Kona Dew Drop that I purchased after finally having enough cash to do so.

I'm going to do the minimum to get it on the road - bringing it to my LBS to have them check the hubs/wheels/BB/headset etc, inspect the frame, disassemble & regrease as needed, replace cables/housings/tubes/tires, etc. which will probably be about $200 CAD. I'm willing to spend this much since I got the bike for free and would like to see it back on the road.

After that, should I just keep it as is? Considering it already has some modern parts on it (threadless stem) I'm tempted to modernize it a bit more (modern saddle, dual-pivot brakes for better stopping, maybe clipless pedals, etc). I'm also tempted to go full out and put 9/10-speed with brifters on it but I know for the money I could probably just get a new bike, so that probably won't happen.

What would you guys do with the bike? Leave it as is after the basics, or upgrade a few things (brakes, or maybe brake pads will suffice? are the Tektro aero brake levers an upgrade over the 105 aero levers - better mech. advantage? Or waste of money?)

Also, any advice regarding the paint damage? Is it minor enough that I can just put some kind of clear coat / clear nail polish over it? Should I treat it with something? I don't think there's enough damage to need to strip & repaint, and I'm hoping that there's no hidden major rust problems on the inside of the frame.

Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for any advice.

-22km Tombstone

miamijim

Aside from the basic maintenance you mentioned I'd leave it alone.

DiegoFrogs

$200 buys an awful lot of tools, and since you have the Kona to ride in the meantime, I'd look into buying the tools and working on it myself if I were you.

As you've said, I'd just replace the cables and housings and repack the bearings. You may be able to color match the paint with nail polish. It doesn't look like a problem.

22km Tombstone

That's what I am thinking. Should I look into getting some better brake pads, at least? I'm somewhat spoiled by the modern disc brakes on the Kona. The single-pivot calipers don't do a whole lot in comparison. I guess that's just how they are, though? Should I just get used to them?

Thanks for the feedback on the paint! I'll try to find some nail polish that matches the color.

As for tools - I'm not sure about in the US, but $200 here in Canada won't buy very much. Cable cutter is $40. Shifter & brake Cables/housings themselves are $40 - that's almost half the budget already.
I will look into it though. I very much like the idea of having all my own tools and working on my bikes.

Thanks for the feedback.

Phil_gretz

I'm wondering why you think that cables and housings are $40 - that seems high by about a factor of 2. You can certainly do the cabling youself. You'll need a good set of sharp diagonal pliers or end-cut nippers to cut the inner wires cleanly. Also, a crimp tool for finishing the ends. For cutting the housings, I would recommend a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel (very clean and fast). For de-burring, a simple ice pick wil do.

As for changes - agree with all of the previous responses - Don't change it, ride it. Changing brake pads will do more than buying new calipers. Yours are fine - you'll just need to add modern DuraAce type cartridges with koolstop salmon pads. Your stopping will improve threefold and you can adjust the spacing closer.

You didn't mention wheel truing. This can be learned on the bike, just get a good spoke wrench.

What a terrific bike, btw.

PG

ColonelJLloyd 

Nice bike. I would've thought that size frame would be too small for a guy 5'10". I'm about an inch taller and ride a frame that looks about 10cm larger!

If it were me and I was dead-set on riding that size bike I'd replace the stem with an alloy quill stem. It's my opinion that that black thing hurts the aesthetics of that bike. The maintenance you mentioned is in order.

Chombi

Uhmm...that looks smaller than a 53CM frame. I would guess to say that it can't be more than a 52 CM or maybe even smaller, judging from the small amount of space at the headtube between the TT and DT.
You can still make that fit right for your inseam, as long as you have enough setpost left to expose. You can also get a 120 or 130mm stem to give you some room up top, but the present stem and handlebars seem to already provide a good amount of reach already.

Chombi

wrk101

+1 Your budget is way off. You can buy a basic cable and housing kit at Walmart for $6. Or go with something a little better for about $10 (I'd recommend something better, shift cables and housings made for indexed shifting). I pay less than $2 each for stainless cables. You need to shop more, spend less.

+1 That stem needs to go. My cable cutters cost about $40, but they are high end. For more occasional use, the Spin Doctor cutters sold at Nashbar are fine. I used the Spin Doctor cutters for a couple of years before I finally upgraded. As far as spending on tools in general, it depends how much bicycle work you are going to do. If you just have two bikes, then I would get the bare minimum.

Stand over height is not the end all as far as bike sizing. In fact, for someone with short legs for their height, its a really lousy sizing guide. (I have really short legs too). Google bike sizing and top tube length, and you can get all the information you ever dreamed of on sizing. For me, I have zero standover, but that gives me a long enough top tube to compensate for my long torso and arms.


I think that bike is very likely a 21 inch size. Just put a tape measure to it and you will know for sure.

Don't forget to service the wheel, headset and bottom bracket bearings. That bike is 23 years old, and the bearings have probably not seen service in years (if ever). Replace bearings, don't reuse. I buy bearings for 2 cents each.

RFC

Really, the new tools you will need are minimal.

Cable/housing cutters are nice, but I've cut plenty with ordinary wire cutters. A little harder to do and not as clean, but they work.

You don't need a special tool to crimp the ends on the cables. Any pliers or wire cutter will do.

Bottom brackets do require two special tools -- A bike specific wrench to loosen the ring and a spanner wrench to remove the BB.

And you will need a set of cheap allen wrenches (any discount hardware store).

For your bike specific tools, save money and go on line -- Performance or Nashbar. You don't need Park quality. The house brands will do.

For cables, and housing, Performance and Nashbar sell prepackaged sets for a lot less than buying the parts individually.

For touchup, go to a hobby/model store and buy the Testors blue, yellow and white. Mix small amounts in bottle caps until you get the shade you want.

I'm guessing you can purchase all necessary parts and tools for about $70.

I rebuilt a 560 for my son. Great bike and easy to work on.

Good luck.

Thumpic

Great bike for a "pay it forward"!! Replace the cables and clean/adjust the brakes. There is plenty of online "how-to's" for brakes. I can't tell, but they look like 105's and you should be well satisified with your braking. Be sure to clean the rims really well too. I wouldn't replace the pads until you're sure they are the problem.

Skip the nail polish and use an auto touch up pen; much more durable.

Check your vice grips. My pair has a very nice and powerful wire cutter in the jaws. They easily cut bicycle cables if adjusted right. The cut cable may "splay" some but that is easily dealt with.

Enjoy your bike....

dit

Nice bike......I would guess a 52cm and probably a little small for you but rideable. A 54 or probably a 56 cm would be a better fit. Remove one wheel and take the hub apart, clean, and repack. Remove the other wheel etc.........Remove the crankset and bottom bracket, clean, repack. Take the head set apart, clean, repack. Replace all cables, clean both derailluers with brake cleaner after removing from the bike. Remove brakes, one at a time, disassemble, and clean and replace brake pads. Replace stem with a 120mm vintage model. Change tires if needed, true rims while mounted in frame. Ride the crap out of it until you find you may or may not need a different seat. I assume the bike has a 6 or 7 cog freewheel which is fine. Forget the 10 speed thing unless you are willing to spend major dollars (probably 5 or 600 minumum with used components ).

22km Tombstone

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have to admit I'm pretty new to everything so it's no surprise to me I could be off on my guess of the frame size.

How do I measure using a measuring tape? All I know is when I tested out the ride it felt really good; I can probably raise the saddle a bit but I do have pretty short legs.

@Thumpic: Yes they are the 105 brakes, maybe just because the pads are old they don't stop that great. I hope they work better once I've replaced them.

I'll try to look around for deals on parts and tools. Bike stuff (well, mostly everything actually) in Canada is usually +50% more expensive than in the states. :/
Usually any savings found by going to online stores based in the US is lost in shipping and customs/import charges.


EDIT: Whoops, looks like I made a mistake in converting my height from cm to feet/inches... Looks like I'm about between 5'8" and 5'9 (closer to 5'9") so that could be why the smaller frame feels pretty good to me.

jamesj

i like the 105 shimano stuff... i want some for my trek!

thats about the size i ride, i have a short inseam too 30-31 inches.

mercator

Welcome to BF Tombstone and nice bike! Most of the advice given above is spot on, that bike just needs a bit of routine maintenance and it should be ready to ride. I can offer some advice on saving some $$, however.

Tools: princess auto is a good source for allen wrenches, pliers, and the like. If you live in the south, check that Bianca Amor place
For bike specific stuff: MEC
Parts: if MEC has what you need, they can be ok, but I buy a lot of stuff from PBK, they have free shipping and good prices
Also, check out the good life down at Eau Claire, you should be able to find a proper stem there (used)

canam73

The normal spec for frame size is from the center of the bottom bracket (same as center of crank arm dust cover) to the top of the seat tube. Often noted as seat tube c-t. European frames are often measured along the seat tube from the center of the BB to the center of the top tube, or seat tube c-c.

As with stand over height, it is not the best way to size a frame especially with compact geometry frames. The most meaningful single dimension is the top tube length measured from the center of the seat tube to the center of the head tube. If a frame has compact geometry then this measurement needs to be taken along a "theoretical" top tube line that is parallel to the ground.

Having fun yet?

mercator

Surprised no one has mentioned the biopace chainrings yet.

RFC

The Biopace chainrings are just fine. I have them on 2 bikes.

22km Tombstone

Haha, yeah they are quite weird aren't they... I don't really notice any difference with them, though.

I'll report back with the actual frame size.

Johnny Alien

Looking at the 87 catalog sizes I would say that is 100% a 53cm frame. It looks about the same size as my 53cm Bleriot. I am around the same measurements as you and 53-55 is what fits me best as well. Great looking bike.

Change that stem out.

thenomad

Heck, hit me up if you feel like selling and shipping it. My perfect size. I even like the color.

Ride it as is after a wash and lube. It's a great find.

WNG

Looks like a 52cm c-c. or 53 c-t. frame. And what a nice present!
As for the rust and scratches, they sell a fiberglass tipped rust pen for cars. You use the sharp end to dig out the rust and prep the area for touch up paint. I would remove as much rust, and build up the paint in those areas. You can also weet sand the areas to smooth things out.

That's a nicely equipped bike. 105 is reliable and well made. The 105 SLR brakes were the best single pivot performing brakes in Shimano's line. Don't bother with Tektro levers unless you prefer the comfort of a wider grip. They will perform like the 105 levers.

I have to agree with others here, I'd invest the money on tools and parts, learn the procedures to overhaul the bike DIY. The Park Tools website is a great info source.
Try Canadian Tire for basic hand tools. Besides the ones already mentioned...I recommend 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17mm combo wrenches. A 14 and/or 15mm socket and ratchet for the crankset. Most basic tools one should have and will get you going.
You only need cone wrenches, BB spanners, a chain remover, 2 chain whips, and a headset wrench. That should be a minimum requisite to do what you want to do.

canyoneagle

Great bike!
I'm currently in Calgary and have always done my own wrenching, and love to work on bikes.

I'll be out of pocket until the first week of September, but am happy to sling the bike up on the stand and tear it down, re-pack, re-lube and replace whatever needs replacing. If you buy the parts I'm more than happy to spend a weekend afternoon wrenching with your help. There is no better way to have an intimate working knowledge of your ride than this

EDIT: to your original question, that bike is a perfect sunny day steed

22km Tombstone

@canyoneagle - wow! Thank you so much - that's very generous of you! Unfortunately I will be going away on vacation and won't have much to budget for buying parts just yet. I really appreciate the offer though!

I just got home and measured the frame - it's definitely 21" (53cm from c-t). Top tube is about 54cm.

I think I will try to get some tools together and wrench on it bit by bit. As others have said, I have another (brand new) bike to ride while I'm fixing this one up. If I can't get it up and running by the time the cold weather hits, it could be a fun winter project.

I'll probably keep it as is. I don't even mind the stem, really. I sorta like it. It does the job, anyway. It's not terribly aesthetically pleasing, but it's not ugly (to me) either. I like the fact that it has the pop-top. I don't mind that it's not period-correct or whatever.

@WNG - thanks for the tip about the car paint pen. That seems like good idea - I had no idea they made those

Thanks to all for their thoughts, maybe after this is fixed up I won't have the urge to buy a modern roadie? N+1 always wins, though..

mazdaspeed

You can get NEW campagnolo or shimano dual pivot brakes with new pads for like $30-40 on ebay, I would just do that instead of spending the same amount on kool stop dura type brake pads for the useless old single pivot calipers. Just my 2 cents having been there and done that.

illwafer

of your cat.