J.Wolfe

hey just recently i got into road bikes actually a week ago and ive already owned two pretty cool vintage pieces.

first one was a 1974 Huffy Contestant. Had it for all of 4 days hoping to restore it so i started to de badge it prep for paint etc. and realized i was into bikes alot more then expected so i sold it in hopes of finding a bike i really would get attached to and that was of better quality.





I found this 1980 12 speed Fuji Royale for 200 and i was wondering the value of these things, It was on craigslist and the guy had 225 firm. he ended up selling it to me but saying if he wanted he could have waited and have sold it for more. So i feel i got a deal. shine some light and let me know what you think of the bike. here is a bio of everything on it.

Has a 33 1/4" standover height and measures 57 cm from center of crank to center of seat tube good for riders in the 5'10 to 6'1" height range. Frame marked "Fuji Chromoly 441 tubing"Suntour Vx rear and front derailers. Nitto alloy stem and alloy handlebars. Dia-Compe alloy brakesets and alloy levers with optional upright brake levers. Suntour bar end shifters. 3 piece Fuji alloy crank. Mavic alloy rear wheel and Super Chance Competition alloy front wheel - both are quick release and both have BRAND NEW 27" X 1 1/4" gumwall tires. Original Fuji saddle





and i had a few questions.

1) i am looking for brake lever hoods and was wondering the specific kind i needed. i was pointed toward the Dia-Compe lever hoods, would these be the best fit? and also opinion wise should i get them in white or gum. Im buying a white soma saddle today and already did the white grips so im wondering what would look better... im leaning toward white...

2) i wanted to find some replacement decals because some are starting to want to come off and I would really just like a fresh start with new ones that are authentic.

3) any good websites that have fuji products that would be of help when it comes to maintenance for a older bike like this, maybe used parts as well.

thanks!

Justin

Doohickie

Not sure about the hoods but I suspect the basic Diacompes would do. Honestly, though, I don't think they look too bad with the aluminum body showing. As far as the decals go, my preference is to leave the bike as original as possible, even if the decals are coming off. That's a personal preference though. As far as Fuji parts, a lot of the pieces are branded Fuji on the Royale, but they are actually made by the normal component manufacturers. The Fuji cranks are made by Sugino; the Fuji Vx derailleur is actually a Suntour Vx; the pedals are MKS.

I had a Fuji Royale mixte and it was an awesome bike. I sold it only because it was too small for me, but I loved the bike. It shifted like butter and was a quick mover with great balance. I think you can find out more about your bike at ClassicFuji.com; they have pretty much all the catalogs there.

If the Fuji is ready to ride, $200 isn't ridiculous. I would have tried to get it for less in my market (I would be thinking more in terms of a bike I could flip and would not want to pay "full retail"), but I don't know that I could have talked a seller down from what you paid. You did good.

auchencrow

Very nice Fuji you have there, Justin!

Give that thing a turkeywing-ectomy and
buy a pair of Cane Creek hoods to install when you re-wrap the bars and replace the cables and housing.

Roger M

That is a great looking Fuji. I have a 79 Royale(in a 25" frame) and I have been commuting on it for over a month. A very well built bike that rides nice, although a little portly. I envy you with the bar end shifters. Mine still sports the DT shifters and they work fine, but not as convenient as yours.

Nice find

J.Wolfe

Yea the decals i wouldnt ever take off unless i found the exact same. its really just the colored rings on the down tube that are peeling at the corners, might just get some clear tape and somewhat laminate them to protect it from wear/coming off.
and it doesnt bother me i just like the look of the covers alot. do the brakes need to be taken off or the brake lines dis connected to get them on?

what do you mean by that statement? lol and yea i like those hoods, and when is it time for new cables and housing? just wear on them and etc?

thanks yea i saw them and at first was like umm where do i shift. but read and found that out. very happy with it even though i wasnt expecting it at all. I hope to keep this thing for a long time.

just bought me a new soma hisan saddle for 20 bucks off craigslist and it sets the bike off even more now

sonatageek

I say dump the brake levers all together and get a set of new Aero levers -- Tektro's are about $20 with the hoods.

That was a nice step up. Congratulations.

Pompiere

You do need to remove the brake cable to intall hoods, but if you are careful, you can get the new hoods on without unwrapping the bar and removing the lever. After disconnecting the cable, you need to remove the lever mounting bolt, leaving the bar tape to hold the lever base. Then slide the red pin out the side to remove the brake lever. There will be some plastic bushings to keep track of when you pull the lever out. You can then slide the new hood douwn over the base. Lube the hood with some soapy water first so it slides on easier. Once the hood is on, reassemble the lever, reconnect the cabel and you are done.

Doohickie

Turkey wings is another name for the "safety" levers that allow you to brake while your hands are on the center part of the bar. They are considered to be the sign of a cheap, uncouth bicycle, although this bike disproves that assertion because it was one of the better bikes of its day, a solid mid-range offering. I kind of agree that replacing them with aero levers would be an improvement, and probably no more expensive than getting new hoods.

reverborama

https://www.salt2salt.hutman.net/scan...Royale1980.JPG

auchencrow

It's time for new cables when old lube or internal rust creates stiction, or when housing is kinked or bent at the ferule ends. (I do it just to have fresh cosmetics and because it's cheap and easy to do. )
- If you go with Aero levers you'll have to change cables with the new routing anyway.

Deturkefying your levers is likewise easy: Remove ad disassemble the lever and you will see the pivot has a step that is flush with the lever's body shell, do you know where to cut with the hacksaw. Reassemble and install the hoods.
I do it on better bikes because of the low end stigma, and because the so-called "safety bars" usually have too much flex in them. (It's better to use the levers instead of the bars- they provide for more positive braking.)

J.Wolfe

thanks, i thin ill get these asap. what better about this type of braking lever?
ive seen catalogs but not that before, nice thanks!
no im n dunno what a hacksaw is on a bik?, and what type of cables go with the aero levers?

auchencrow

The pivot bolts on you levers have a shoulder precisely where the safety bar mounts. The hacksaw is literally just that - a hacksaw - what you use to shorten the pivot bolt so it won't protrude past the brake lever's body shell.
Aero brake cable housing routes under the bar tape - not outside of it. Note that you have to be very precise in cutting it to the appropriate length, so don't make your final cut at the brake caliper until it's secured to your bars and routed. Also note that Aero levers are Rt and Lt handed.