How good is Tange CrMo?
#26
Decrepit Member
#28
Bianchi Goddess
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I have a Tange 2 frame that was branded Repco in Australia, purchased from the president of a cycle racing club which I gradually built up to Dura Ace with Mavic CXP33 wheels. I loved that bike but bent it when I drive under a carpark with it on the roof. My wife purchased a Bianchi Boron Steel Pinella with her insurance payout and I purchased a replacement down tube identical to the Tange 2 DB spec and had it welded into the frame and then repainted Bianchi colours. I prefer the Tange frame to the Bianchi.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#29
Decrepit Member
Originally Posted by Kaisei President, Mr. Igarashi
We think that many people know Ishiwata’s butted tubes but many do not know the brand name of Kaisei. Ishiwata was closed down in 1993, and the same year Kaisei took over the Ishiwata technique. We made the business smaller, and experienced [former Ishiwata] staff members continued to manufacture butted tubes.
In 1994, we developed Nickel-CrMo butted tubes (8630). We hold a sixty percent share in Japan of butted-tubing sales, which are loved by Keirin frame builders. Skilled artisans make our butted-tubes elaborately so please try them. We believe you will understand the goodness.
In 1994, we developed Nickel-CrMo butted tubes (8630). We hold a sixty percent share in Japan of butted-tubing sales, which are loved by Keirin frame builders. Skilled artisans make our butted-tubes elaborately so please try them. We believe you will understand the goodness.
Last edited by Scooper; 04-22-14 at 02:07 PM.
#30
Steel is real
excellent
that tells me mine is from the late 80s
i wonder if you were able to buy frames only to build your own, because mine isn't branded with anything. just painted. & it's just got a sticker on the top part of the frame where the seat pole goes - CR-MO Tubing
Tange
5
P.G Tubes
& according to your chart it's a plain gauge tube for touring, nothing special, huh?
that tells me mine is from the late 80s
i wonder if you were able to buy frames only to build your own, because mine isn't branded with anything. just painted. & it's just got a sticker on the top part of the frame where the seat pole goes - CR-MO Tubing
Tange
5
P.G Tubes
& according to your chart it's a plain gauge tube for touring, nothing special, huh?
#31
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It depends. Some companies do offer frames in various grades of Tange tubing, and of course custom builder can get some of the upperend tube sets.
It is always possible someone simply took the decals off your present frame or repainted it and only replaced the Tange tubing decal.
It is always possible someone simply took the decals off your present frame or repainted it and only replaced the Tange tubing decal.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#32
Decrepit Member
If there are no decals or a serial number on your frame, it could have been made by anybody. I'm not saying it wasn't made by an established builder, but it is certainly possible it was made by an unknown hobbyist.
There are lots of amateur (hobbyist) framebuilders, and many don't put any decals or other identifying marks on their frames. Since these folks usually build only for themselves, they typically don't carry any liability insurance. These frames can wind up being sold after the builder dies.
Frames made with plain gauge tubing are usually nothing special. Sometimes, though, plain gauge tubing is intentionally used for larger frames and/or heavier riders to prevent the frame from being too flexy.
There are lots of amateur (hobbyist) framebuilders, and many don't put any decals or other identifying marks on their frames. Since these folks usually build only for themselves, they typically don't carry any liability insurance. These frames can wind up being sold after the builder dies.
Frames made with plain gauge tubing are usually nothing special. Sometimes, though, plain gauge tubing is intentionally used for larger frames and/or heavier riders to prevent the frame from being too flexy.
#33
Junior Member
I just bought a Concorde bike assembled in Canada that has a Tange lugged frame it's very heavy compared
to my Japanese 83 Bianchi that just got stolen it said 022 on frame very light
to my Japanese 83 Bianchi that just got stolen it said 022 on frame very light
#35
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That chart answers one question I've had, and raises another. I've repeatedly seen Tange Prestige listed in tubing charts as having a seat tube sizing of .7/.4/.7, which is much thinner than SL or 531. Yet when I put calipers on my Prestige framed Panasonic, I get a seat tube OD of 29.0, and it takes a 27.2 seat tube (so 0.9 thickness, not 0.7). In the chart, I see three variants for Prestige seat tubes, the very thin .7/.4/.7, my Panasonic's .9/.6, and a third option of 1.0/.8/.6. Anyone know the story here? I'm guessing the .7/.4/.7 was for track bikes.
#36
Decrepit Member
That chart answers one question I've had, and raises another. I've repeatedly seen Tange Prestige listed in tubing charts as having a seat tube sizing of .7/.4/.7, which is much thinner than SL or 531. Yet when I put calipers on my Prestige framed Panasonic, I get a seat tube OD of 29.0, and it takes a 27.2 seat tube (so 0.9 thickness, not 0.7). In the chart, I see three variants for Prestige seat tubes, the very thin .7/.4/.7, my Panasonic's .9/.6, and a third option of 1.0/.8/.6. Anyone know the story here? I'm guessing the .7/.4/.7 was for track bikes.
A 28.6mm O.D. tube with 0.7mm wall thickness would have in I.D. of 28.6 - 1.4 = 27.2. Typically, there's some distortion around the seat cluster due to torch heat during brazing, so the seat tube is reamed after brazing to provide easy insertion of the seatpost. Often, the seat tube is reamed to provide a 0.1mm-0.2mm clearance between the nominal O.D. of the seatpost and the I.D. of the seat tube to allow for manufacturing tolerances.
#37
Full Member
Tange made a pretty wide range of tubing--from Tange 5 straight gauge to high-end Prestige. Your Concorde could sit anywhere on the spectrum, so you'd have to be more specific (is it Tange 900? 1000? Mangalloy 2001? #3? #4?).
#38
Decrepit Member
Different manufacturers use the terms "double-butted", "triple-butted", "quadruple-butted" differently.
Some, like Miyata, use the term "triple-butted" to describe what is really double-butted tubes with different wall thickness at the butted ends.
Ishiwata uses the term "quadruple butted" where there are four different wall-thicknesses over the length of the tube.
Heck, even Columbus has jumped on the bandwagon by calling double-butted Spirit tubing "Triple-butted."
So, a lot of it is meaningless marketing hype without actually seeing the butting profile of the tube.
Some, like Miyata, use the term "triple-butted" to describe what is really double-butted tubes with different wall thickness at the butted ends.
Ishiwata uses the term "quadruple butted" where there are four different wall-thicknesses over the length of the tube.
Heck, even Columbus has jumped on the bandwagon by calling double-butted Spirit tubing "Triple-butted."
So, a lot of it is meaningless marketing hype without actually seeing the butting profile of the tube.
#39
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The seat tube O.D. is almost certainly 28.6mm. If the tubing is painted or plated, those coatings could easily be 0.2mm thick which would account for the 29.0mm caliper measurement.
A 28.6mm O.D. tube with 0.7mm wall thickness would have in I.D. of 28.6 - 1.4 = 27.2. Typically, there's some distortion around the seat cluster due to torch heat during brazing, so the seat tube is reamed after brazing to provide easy insertion of the seatpost. Often, the seat tube is reamed to provide a 0.1mm-0.2mm clearance between the nominal O.D. of the seatpost and the I.D. of the seat tube to allow for manufacturing tolerances.
A 28.6mm O.D. tube with 0.7mm wall thickness would have in I.D. of 28.6 - 1.4 = 27.2. Typically, there's some distortion around the seat cluster due to torch heat during brazing, so the seat tube is reamed after brazing to provide easy insertion of the seatpost. Often, the seat tube is reamed to provide a 0.1mm-0.2mm clearance between the nominal O.D. of the seatpost and the I.D. of the seat tube to allow for manufacturing tolerances.
#40
Decrepit Member
What's weird is that I just did these measurements on my SL tubed Tommasini, as well as the Panasonic. Both are chrome plated and painted (at least I think the Panasonic is chrome plated everywhere -- it has many fewer paint chips than the Tommasini, which is definitely fully chromed under the paint), and I get similar measure measurements of the OD of the upper seat tube for both. That is, I get a range of measures of 28.8-29.0. Both take 27.2 seat posts (the Panasonic post is the bike's original). When I weigh the frames alone, the slightly larger Tommasini frame weighs a bit less, while the charts I see indicate the Prestige frame should be a touch lighter. So is the SL tubing on the Tommasini extra thin? What do those three different seat tube measures refer to in the Tange chart? And finally, what keeps a seat tube of .7/.4/.7 from being super flexible, because that seems like a massive difference compared to .9/.6./.9?
The 80s Cyclex SL seat tube is also single butted with 0.9 at the BB shell and 0.6 at the seatpost end.
#41
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#42
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Sorry, but no. I believe these tubes were used mostly (if not exclusively) by Fuji.
#43
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One of my favorite bikes of all time was a Centurion Pro Tour which I bought used. It had a Champion #2 tubeset with High Tension fork. Well worn, with high mileage as purchased, I commuted to work on it in Olympia, WA every Winter until I retired and it never let me down. I had to replace the worn out wheels with a new set, but no complaints on the frame. I sold it sight unseen to someone in Bellingham, WA and it is probably still rolling along. Don
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One thing I never understood is why you never see any Tange Aero tubing on road bikes. They used to have it for their BMX's in the early 80's and it was pretty cool stuff.
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I'm not sure if any of this is actually structurally beneficial or not but hearing their reps talk endlessly about it at trade shows is pretty annoying.
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My Maruishi has Tange Prestige tubing. Super, duper light. I was amazed. Def a bit lighter than my Trek 610 Reynolds 531 frame. I also like the Tange prestigue tubing decal more haha.