southpawboston

Most hardware stores will stock these clips in different diameters and in either white or black. The smaller diameter clips are great for securing lights or panniers to racks:

noglider 

What a good idea!

kralizec

After looking at what they did and what I did. I think i had everything wrong. Leather washers on the frame attachment bolts and stuff like that i might have to get some more of those and redo it.

As of now I have zip ties holding my rear one to the non-eyelet attachment points aka. where the kickstand is and the brake boss.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

Hey it works I went all winter with a set of SKS fenders zip tied on.

nlerner

Wow, I just saw the eBikeStop.com is selling the hammered V-O fenders (37mm and 45mm) for $40.95:

https://www.ebikestop.com/velo_orange...der-FE7702.php

That's a deal!

Neal

stien

Less than what I sold mine for used!

I still wish this thread would slink into the oblivion.

noglider 

That is a deal.

So I'm building up an unusual bike: Raleigh International with hub brakes and indexed shifting. I'm building it for fun and then to sell. (There's a small chance I'll keep it if I like it better than one of my own bikes in my stable.) If I put these fenders on, will it increase the value of the bike by $41? If not, and if I end up keeping the bike, I can move fenders I have from an existing bike and save the money.

trueno92

Guys I need help!!

I think I might have a problem with the fluted 48mm wide fenders.

Has anyone installed these on a ROAD bike? I bought on impulse now realizing that as much as the fenders will fit thru the fork and rear seat stays, I am not sure if my shimano arx calipers are going to fit around these....

What are my options?? Cut or bed around where the calipers may make contact? Has anyone "narrowed" a fender by slightly crushing it in a bench vise? Would that change the shape of the arch?

nlerner

It depends on a whole bunch of things in terms of your selling price and what somewhat is willing to pay, but I'd say on the whole you're better off not installing fenders as an add on. My sense is that most buyers would immediately remove them anyway.

Neal

southpawboston

Don't cut, as that may weaken the fender. I used JP Weigle's trick, and dimpled the fender using a wooden form and dowel:











Fender lines still look great after dimpling!

trueno92

That looks FANTASTIC! and cheers for taking pics during the process.

One thing tho, I cannot conceptualize how or what angle you put the fender the form to press the dowl on it.

especially from this picture, i am really confused what angle you pressed down on the fender from.

southpawboston

It's hard to describe in words. Notice the first picture above. You can see that the top of the form is angled, not horizontal. In the picture that you quoted, the fender is resting on the uppermost edge of the form. The other side of the fender is resting on the side of the form. The form was angled that way so that when you prop up the fender from the inside, the form is resting flat (more or less) against the inside wall of the fender.

This might illustrate the concept, as a picture is worth a thousand words (click to enlarge):

ColonelJLloyd 

Thanks, Anton. That is helpful. Do you recommend a soft wood, such as pine, or does it really matter?

southpawboston

Justin, I doubt it matters... I just used a piece of 2x4 for the form, and a piece of clothes rod as the concentric dowel... I don't even know what kind of wood either are made from. The aluminum fenders are incredibly soft! A light tap-tap-tap of the dowel with a hammer does the trick.

Another point worth mentioning is that this method assumes the stays and/or fork blades are round, which they usually are not. No big deal... once I fit the fenders in place and found that the dimples were too deep (because the roundness of the dimple didn't mate perfectly with the flatness of the stay), I just used pliers to squeeze the dimpled section and the stay together. I used a thin piece of wood molding in each jaw of the pliers to avoid nicking or gouging the stay and fender. Just a little squeeze... there's no way the stay will get dented this way, unless you really crimped as hard as you could.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

Question for you Fender Gurus...

What do you use to cut the stays?

The only thing that came to my mind was "Dremel" and it got me wondering....would you just cut the stays while its all mounted in place on the bike? or would you mark the stays, remove them from the bike and cut them on the bench?

nlerner

I use a bolt cutter (14" from HarborFreight). And I can use it while the stays are in place. The cut isn't as smooth as it would be with a dremel, but I'm lazy.

Neal

southpawboston

I use a dremel with a metal cutting disc. For the last couple of builds I've become daring and cut them right on the bike. I do stick a couple of layers of electrical tape to the dropout behind the stay in case the disc slips!

-holiday76

i use my cable cutting tool. works great:

ColonelJLloyd 

Neal's idea is good. I could use a bolt cutter as I'm often needing to trim bolts.

I use a Dremel. I remove the stays. . .. ahem. . usually. I once took a shortcut after a few bourbons on a late night fender installation session (why do I make it so hard on mysefl?). I cut through the stay and nicked the dropout a few times with the cutting wheel. Oops. If you doubled up a couple pieces of flashing or something to hold between the bike and the stays that should work to help prevent mishaps.

When I want to do it right, however, (and I usually do) I mark the stays with a Sharpie, remove them, cut them with a Dremel and finish the ends with some sandpaper and steel wool.

I should, but don't own a cable cutting tool. I use a Dremel to cut housing then ream the end with brake cable heated with a lighter.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

Thanks guys, I suppose I already knew what the "RIght Way" was gonna be but I am a lazy mofo and might have to get daring

Any ideas for finishing off the ends aside from curling them? A finial of some sort would be very cool.

ColonelJLloyd 

The ends of the stays? I like mine flush with the end of the P-clip. I've only seen them curled once and I wasn't a fan.

noglider 

I use a diagonal cutter. I have strong fingers.

rumrunn6

most fender instructions are somewhat lacking. one needs a kind of gestalt to do it. sit there with your eyes closed for a few minutes and channel "the force". then begin and keep an open mind and be prepared to use additional hardware such as nuts; bolts or washers you have kicking around the shop. also a stray zip-tie may be useful too. after you've got you fenders on peruse your assembly and be prepared to calmly tweak the adjustments so that the fenders are centered over the wheels and secure. you can't just whip fenders on - it's a bit like plumbing and requires some technique. relax, you'll get!

Amesja

I use side-cutters. One can cut just about anything with a good pair of linesman's pliers and some decent hand strength from doing manual labor for a living.

ColonelJLloyd 

True, but I've since stopped cutting everything with lineman's pliers simply because I can. I've got some nasty areas on my pliers that tell me what I was cutting was too hard for them. They're U.S. made Kobalt, not a Harbor Freight tool.