Help! Should I keep this Raleigh?
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Help! Should I keep this Raleigh?
Hi folks! I'm here because I'm having trouble deciding what to do and you all are so knowledgeable I thought I could get some advice. I recently inherited a 1977 Raleigh Grand Prix from my mom. She hasn't ridden it in at least 15 years, but my sister had it tuned up a couple of years ago when she thought she might take it - then she decided it was too big for her. My mom rode this bike for years, completing bike marathons and all, and she's tiny, about 5'1"on a good day.
However I'm a fairly inexperienced rider and am completely unsure if the bike is right for me. I'm about 5'2" with an inseam of just under 30". I can't stand completely flat-footed over this Raleigh, and I can't reach the floor at all when I'm on the saddle. That makes me nervous. The saddle is all the way lowered as it is, which looks kinda silly. This is a total n00b question, but is it possible to put smaller wheels on the frame to lower it a bit? I think I'd really only need an inch or two. I'm 98% sure right now it's outfitted with all of its original components with the exception of the saddle.
My other option is to sell the bike (though I have no idea how much it's worth) and buy something smaller, from bikesdirect.com or the like. I would actually much rather have a single speed - like the last bike I owned and was comfortable on - and had considered converting this one if possible.
Part of me feels like a wuss if I don't keep the bike because I mean, my mom was able to ride it and she's shorter than I am so what's my problem?! Basically I just don't know what to do at all and I'm feeling wishy-washy.
That said, anyone have any idea roughly how much to try and sell this for, if I opted to go that route? Anyway here are some photos for reference! Thanks in advance!
However I'm a fairly inexperienced rider and am completely unsure if the bike is right for me. I'm about 5'2" with an inseam of just under 30". I can't stand completely flat-footed over this Raleigh, and I can't reach the floor at all when I'm on the saddle. That makes me nervous. The saddle is all the way lowered as it is, which looks kinda silly. This is a total n00b question, but is it possible to put smaller wheels on the frame to lower it a bit? I think I'd really only need an inch or two. I'm 98% sure right now it's outfitted with all of its original components with the exception of the saddle.
My other option is to sell the bike (though I have no idea how much it's worth) and buy something smaller, from bikesdirect.com or the like. I would actually much rather have a single speed - like the last bike I owned and was comfortable on - and had considered converting this one if possible.
Part of me feels like a wuss if I don't keep the bike because I mean, my mom was able to ride it and she's shorter than I am so what's my problem?! Basically I just don't know what to do at all and I'm feeling wishy-washy.
That said, anyone have any idea roughly how much to try and sell this for, if I opted to go that route? Anyway here are some photos for reference! Thanks in advance!
#2
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If you really want a single speed, buying one from either Bikes Direct or Nashbar (when they put theirs on sale) is your cheapest option.
Seat post clamp is on backwards by the way.
Grand Prix are low end Raleighs. In an average market, maybe $125 in pristine, ready to ride condition. I think your market is a little stronger. Check the local C/L for a few days and see what similar bikes are going for.
As far as standing over the bike flat footed, I assume you must be sitting on the saddle at the time. Straddle the top bar instead (get off the seat). I would be surprised if you can't straddle that top tube.
Google bike sizing, you will get more information than you can ever possibly read.
Few if any riders can be flatfooted when they are on the saddle. If they are, the seat is too low, as the saddle position is set for leg extension while pedalling, not touching the ground.
Seat post clamp is on backwards by the way.
Grand Prix are low end Raleighs. In an average market, maybe $125 in pristine, ready to ride condition. I think your market is a little stronger. Check the local C/L for a few days and see what similar bikes are going for.
As far as standing over the bike flat footed, I assume you must be sitting on the saddle at the time. Straddle the top bar instead (get off the seat). I would be surprised if you can't straddle that top tube.
Google bike sizing, you will get more information than you can ever possibly read.
Few if any riders can be flatfooted when they are on the saddle. If they are, the seat is too low, as the saddle position is set for leg extension while pedalling, not touching the ground.
Last edited by wrk101; 09-30-10 at 08:27 PM.
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I like it. If it fit me, I'd ride the stink out of it...
As far as the bike being too large for you, if you can ride it with a "fist full" of seat post showing, it's just about right. looks like a 52cm bike - good for a 28-30" inseam, if I'm not mistaken. But then again, I've got a 32" inseam and ride something between 56-62cm depending on the bike and its use (race bike is a 56cm Cannondale, distance bikes are 58cm, fixed gear is a 62cm Peugeot).
One thing it's got going for it is that it's the later cotterless version (post '75 or so), and the fact that it's really clean, from the pics.
As far as the bike being too large for you, if you can ride it with a "fist full" of seat post showing, it's just about right. looks like a 52cm bike - good for a 28-30" inseam, if I'm not mistaken. But then again, I've got a 32" inseam and ride something between 56-62cm depending on the bike and its use (race bike is a 56cm Cannondale, distance bikes are 58cm, fixed gear is a 62cm Peugeot).
One thing it's got going for it is that it's the later cotterless version (post '75 or so), and the fact that it's really clean, from the pics.
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As far as standing over the bike flat footed, I assume you must be sitting on the saddle at the time. Straddle the top bar instead (get off the seat). I would be surprised if you can't straddle that top tube.
Google bike sizing, you will get more information than you can ever possibly read.
Few if any riders can be flatfooted when they are on the saddle. If they are, the seat is too low, as the saddle position is set for leg extension while pedalling, not touching the ground.
Google bike sizing, you will get more information than you can ever possibly read.
Few if any riders can be flatfooted when they are on the saddle. If they are, the seat is too low, as the saddle position is set for leg extension while pedalling, not touching the ground.
I like it. If it fit me, I'd ride the stink out of it...
As far as the bike being too large for you, if you can ride it with a "fist full" of seat post showing, it's just about right. looks like a 52cm bike - good for a 28-30" inseam, if I'm not mistaken. But then again, I've got a 32" inseam and ride something between 56-62cm depending on the bike and its use (race bike is a 56cm Cannondale, distance bikes are 58cm, fixed gear is a 62cm Peugeot).
One thing it's got going for it is that it's the later cotterless version (post '75 or so), and the fact that it's really clean, from the pics.
As far as the bike being too large for you, if you can ride it with a "fist full" of seat post showing, it's just about right. looks like a 52cm bike - good for a 28-30" inseam, if I'm not mistaken. But then again, I've got a 32" inseam and ride something between 56-62cm depending on the bike and its use (race bike is a 56cm Cannondale, distance bikes are 58cm, fixed gear is a 62cm Peugeot).
One thing it's got going for it is that it's the later cotterless version (post '75 or so), and the fact that it's really clean, from the pics.
#5
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How tall are you?
#6
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I use this basic sizing chart as a starting point for sizing. I have found it to be pretty close. Be sure to use bicycle inseam, and not you pant inseam.
#7
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laurenornot, How you fit a bicycle when seated upon it is the priority item in owning one. If your nether region doesn't clear the top tube while wearing the shoes you'd wear while riding, that can become a safety issue, in particular for a new cyclist.
Brad
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#8
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Chances are the bike is a little too large for you if you can't straddle the top tube, but that's not a huge issue. When most riders come to a stop they do not hold the bike perfectly upright, but lean it to the side, and you really only need to rest one foot on the ground. Once you get used to that you'll probably hardly notich the top tube issue. more important are proper seat height and the reach to the handlebars.
To rough in the seat height, set the seat so that with one pedal straight down and your leg completely extended with the knee locked your heal dips just a bit. Ultimately what you want is for your leg to be almost straight with the knee barely bent at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Once you get it roughed in you can fine tune it by raising it a little bit at a time, ride it for a bit then raise it more until you find your hips are starting to rock, then lower it back to the previous level. basically you want the seat as high as possible without your hips rocking. This will give you the most efficient pedal stroke, and be better for your knees. Don't think about trying to reach the ground while you're in the saddle with the seat set correctly you shouldn't be able to.
Now for the reach. you can adjust that a little by moving the saddle forward and back, but if the reach is significantly too long you will probably need to use a shorter stem. I suspect your sister was the one who put the seatpost clamp on backwards in an effort to correct the reach without changing the stem.
To rough in the seat height, set the seat so that with one pedal straight down and your leg completely extended with the knee locked your heal dips just a bit. Ultimately what you want is for your leg to be almost straight with the knee barely bent at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Once you get it roughed in you can fine tune it by raising it a little bit at a time, ride it for a bit then raise it more until you find your hips are starting to rock, then lower it back to the previous level. basically you want the seat as high as possible without your hips rocking. This will give you the most efficient pedal stroke, and be better for your knees. Don't think about trying to reach the ground while you're in the saddle with the seat set correctly you shouldn't be able to.
Now for the reach. you can adjust that a little by moving the saddle forward and back, but if the reach is significantly too long you will probably need to use a shorter stem. I suspect your sister was the one who put the seatpost clamp on backwards in an effort to correct the reach without changing the stem.
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https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Catalog...egoryId=200348
As far as the Grand Prix is concerned...hey, it was mom's!!! Keep it as a family heirloom. You can find time and places to ride it. Once you sell it (will not bring in that much...$125 maybe like Thrifty Bill said) it's gone for good.
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BTW, you can get the Mongoose Kaldi Woman's Commuter with a small frame (regularly $419) for $160 brand new right now from Nashbar. About $200 on you your doorstep.
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A problem with riding a taller bike is that it's also longer. If mom was shorter, then she probably turned that seat clamp so she could reach the handlebars. Just for a quick height estimate, you can set top of your seat even to the top of your hip bone.
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The most common mistake a newbie makes is choosing a bike that is too small, so I would be very circumspect about disposing of your mom's vintage bike.
Regardless of what the charts say, the human leg should be near fully extended in the pedal downstroke in order to apply optimal force, and generally, the bars should fall in the same line of sight as your front axle when riding the hoods. This assures that your spine is not kinked up.
Based on these anatomical criteria, the correct size frame for me is 6cm LARGER than what the charts recommend for my height & inseam. Of course, YMMV, but I advise against a preoccupation with stand-over height, and encourage you to look at what will provide the most comfortable position when you are RIDING, as opposed to "standing over" your bike.
Regardless of what the charts say, the human leg should be near fully extended in the pedal downstroke in order to apply optimal force, and generally, the bars should fall in the same line of sight as your front axle when riding the hoods. This assures that your spine is not kinked up.
Based on these anatomical criteria, the correct size frame for me is 6cm LARGER than what the charts recommend for my height & inseam. Of course, YMMV, but I advise against a preoccupation with stand-over height, and encourage you to look at what will provide the most comfortable position when you are RIDING, as opposed to "standing over" your bike.
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Get a friend to take a picture of you on the bike, it can be from the neck down if you're shy. Lean against a wall so you can be on the seat with your feet on the pedals, one pedal at 12:00 and one at 6:00, That would help us visualize things.
I like GPs. Humble but well engineered. Looks like you have alloy rims. That's a big plus. I just sold a nice GP up in Spring Valley, NY for $100. I think I could have gotten more for it but the guy has given me some good deals in the past. He's a flipper in the city. I bet he gets more for it.
I like GPs. Humble but well engineered. Looks like you have alloy rims. That's a big plus. I just sold a nice GP up in Spring Valley, NY for $100. I think I could have gotten more for it but the guy has given me some good deals in the past. He's a flipper in the city. I bet he gets more for it.
#14
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+1 to the suggestion to hold onto the bike.... for a few years at least. You may find as you get older it's sentimental value will increase greatly.
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The most common mistake a newbie makes is choosing a bike that is too small, so I would be very circumspect about disposing of your mom's vintage bike.
Regardless of what the charts say, the human leg should be near fully extended in the pedal downstroke in order to apply optimal force, and generally, the bars should fall in the same line of sight as your front axle when riding the hoods. This assures that your spine is not kinked up.
Based on these anatomical criteria, the correct size frame for me is 6cm LARGER than what the charts recommend for my height & inseam. Of course, YMMV, but I advise against a preoccupation with stand-over height, and encourage you to look at what will provide the most comfortable position when you are RIDING, as opposed to "standing over" your bike.
Regardless of what the charts say, the human leg should be near fully extended in the pedal downstroke in order to apply optimal force, and generally, the bars should fall in the same line of sight as your front axle when riding the hoods. This assures that your spine is not kinked up.
Based on these anatomical criteria, the correct size frame for me is 6cm LARGER than what the charts recommend for my height & inseam. Of course, YMMV, but I advise against a preoccupation with stand-over height, and encourage you to look at what will provide the most comfortable position when you are RIDING, as opposed to "standing over" your bike.
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#16
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OP, you may be short, but you'll be pressed to find a much smaller vintage bike with full-sized wheels--and that quasi sine qua non of the C&V Order, the level top tube.
It's a sweet little bike for the money, and the older you get, the more you'll value it, to plagiarize a previous poster.
I think if you study the second photo you posted, you'll see that the cat agrees.
It's a sweet little bike for the money, and the older you get, the more you'll value it, to plagiarize a previous poster.
I think if you study the second photo you posted, you'll see that the cat agrees.
Last edited by Roll-Monroe-Co; 10-01-10 at 04:02 PM. Reason: viva la sine qua non!
#17
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Ah one other thing ... don't know if anyone else mentioned this, but... right now, as wrk101 mentioned, the seat post clamp is on backwards. If you reverse it, you'll find that, given the same amount of seatpost sticking out of the seat tube, the distance from the saddle to the bottom bracket will be even greater. Maybe your mom had it set up like that because the bike's a little big for her too?
Have you considered maybe just duct taping some wooden blocks to the pedals?
Also, check that the stem is not projecting above its minimum insertion level. If so it can be dangerous. There's nothing more fun than moving a stem up or down your very first time. That satisfying whack of the mallot. Ahhh.
Have you considered maybe just duct taping some wooden blocks to the pedals?
Also, check that the stem is not projecting above its minimum insertion level. If so it can be dangerous. There's nothing more fun than moving a stem up or down your very first time. That satisfying whack of the mallot. Ahhh.
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I'm 5'7 with short legs it seems right in the middle of frame sizeing, it seems I get a choice A little to big, or too small. I have been riding a bike thats "too big" for me most of my riding life, my seat post is almost all the way down maybe up about an inch. If I stradle the cross bar it digs in a little when I wear shoes, barefoot I got to stand "tip toe" a little . But the seat to crank is great and seat to handlebar fit me great.
I think one of your remarks "However I'm a fairly inexperienced rider and am completely unsure if the bike is right for me. " I think you just need to get a little more miles and confidence under your belt.
Thats really a sweet looking bike, go enjoy it....
I think one of your remarks "However I'm a fairly inexperienced rider and am completely unsure if the bike is right for me. " I think you just need to get a little more miles and confidence under your belt.
Thats really a sweet looking bike, go enjoy it....
Last edited by rjn3100; 10-01-10 at 04:36 PM. Reason: speeling
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Wow, thanks for all the quick and helpful responses! I took her to the LBS today to have the back tube replaced (there was a rip near the valve), sat on it for the first time with both tires inflated, and rode home. Sadly I think the decision has been made for me; turns out I can't reach the bottom pedal stroke without standing forward, partway off the saddle. So right now I'm cursing myself for being SO short!
I'm pretty disappointed as I would love to be comfortable enough to keep the bike. I definitely feel a sentimental attachment already, not to mention I'm a pack rat in general! My boyfriend laughed at me for being hesitant to sell - to those who encouraged me to hold onto her, thanks for validating my feelings! Unfortunately I have to sell before I can get another bike because we live in a tiny place and can't keep anything that isn't absolutely necessary - and we definitely have to keep our bikes inside, my boyfriend's was stolen out of the hallway last month.
I put her up on CL just to see what would happen and almost immediately a girl made an offer of $275! She promised it would be going to a great home, and is coming to see it this weekend. Trying to stay positive, with that money I'll be able to afford some 43-44cm model from BD, raise the saddle as necessary, and slowly learn about bike maintenance as I have to replace the cheap components. I've been lurking the many, many threads discussing the various options so I won't trouble you with questions here but the contenders thus far are the usual suspects: Windsor Clockwork and Motobecane Messenger, since they come in small sizes. Now I just have to wait for them to come into stock in anything color other than pink
I look forward to getting all the advice I'll inevitably need in my adventure in bike mechanics. Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.
I'm pretty disappointed as I would love to be comfortable enough to keep the bike. I definitely feel a sentimental attachment already, not to mention I'm a pack rat in general! My boyfriend laughed at me for being hesitant to sell - to those who encouraged me to hold onto her, thanks for validating my feelings! Unfortunately I have to sell before I can get another bike because we live in a tiny place and can't keep anything that isn't absolutely necessary - and we definitely have to keep our bikes inside, my boyfriend's was stolen out of the hallway last month.
I put her up on CL just to see what would happen and almost immediately a girl made an offer of $275! She promised it would be going to a great home, and is coming to see it this weekend. Trying to stay positive, with that money I'll be able to afford some 43-44cm model from BD, raise the saddle as necessary, and slowly learn about bike maintenance as I have to replace the cheap components. I've been lurking the many, many threads discussing the various options so I won't trouble you with questions here but the contenders thus far are the usual suspects: Windsor Clockwork and Motobecane Messenger, since they come in small sizes. Now I just have to wait for them to come into stock in anything color other than pink
I look forward to getting all the advice I'll inevitably need in my adventure in bike mechanics. Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.
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laurenornot - I'm new here too, but I've been a bike guy for ages. I'm married to a woman who is your height exactly. A year ago, my wife was a very wobbly beginner cyclist who didn't feel comfortable on any of the dozen "small" bikes she test-rode. But one day she test rode the RIGHT bike, and it was so obviously right that she began laughing as she rode - she finally understood what the "right bike" meant. A year on, she has racked up over a thousand miles as a regular bike commuter, when I was only ever hoping she'd join me on Sunday park rides. So what's the bike? Don't laugh when I tell you: The Novara Pulse from REI. It's a "kids" bike, designed for tween boys. It's got 26" (iso 559) wheels, drop bars, nice Shimano brifters, etc. It would be a $1K price point bike for adults, but nobody would spend that on a 12 year old, so it's much more affordable. Your Raleigh is a sweet bike - I ride a '73 Super Course myself and I adore it to bits, in part because it fits me so well. Try the Novara. You might need to call every REI in a 3 state area (And ask if they've got it up on the car roof-rack display, which is where hers was... I had to ask them to fetch it down for us & they weren't sure it was for sale, hah). Finding that bike was one of the best things that ever happened to us, and so I hope you'll at least think about looking at the "kids" section, as crazy as it sounds.
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Thanks for the suggestion, Tazio! I suppose it would be silly not to look at kid models, since I have to do that with shoes The only issue is that I'm really leaning towards a single speed, and most of those for kids are mountain bikes, which I'm not interested in.
The only geared bike I ever owned was a brief experience - I had to give it up because even though it made riding hills easier, I became almost obsessed with the noises I perceived it was making, always feeling like something was rubbing against something else and ultimately pulling over to look. It probably was nothing and I'm sure to seasoned riders it sounds silly, but it was a weird problem I had and it took a lot of the fun out of riding.
I appreciate your response though. It is pretty frustrating to be this short for certain things!
The only geared bike I ever owned was a brief experience - I had to give it up because even though it made riding hills easier, I became almost obsessed with the noises I perceived it was making, always feeling like something was rubbing against something else and ultimately pulling over to look. It probably was nothing and I'm sure to seasoned riders it sounds silly, but it was a weird problem I had and it took a lot of the fun out of riding.
I appreciate your response though. It is pretty frustrating to be this short for certain things!
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