What to do with this Jeunet frame?
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What to do with this Jeunet frame?
I picked up this Jeunet Franche-Compte frame & fork at the SF Bike Expo this weekend, which I've identified as an early-1970s 630 model. The paint is in BAD shape, lots of deep chips and significant fading. The decals have some blemishes, but are in better shape than the paint. On the bright side, the chrome on the stays, forks, and fork crown is almost flawless - . Reynolds 531 double-butted tubes per specs, despite missing Reynolds sticker. Simplex forged dropouts. I haven't taken any measurements of the seatpost & stem. It's safe to assume the BB threading is French. I paid $25 for the frame, fork, headset, stem and one (front) Mafac Racer caliper, so I'm not in very deep (yet).
Here is a catalog page from Classic Rendezvous:
https://www.classicrendezvous.com/Fra...Jeunet_630.htm
I would use this as an errand bike, grocery-getter, and maybe rainy-day commuter, but I'm of a few minds how far I take the restoration. One side of me always wants to restore a bike as close to stock as possible--replace decals, respray to match original, build up with original parts--but in this case it's not necessarily a good use of my time & money, especially considering the use I have in mind and the near-total absence of original parts. Another side of me would like to find replacement decals, if possible, respray/repaint (there are some hand-painted details such as pinstriping on the original, which might be fun to reproduce) and then build up with "appropriate" but not necessarily stock parts. Certainly a lot easier than hunting for (difficult to find?) parts and I then have more flexibility with the parts I choose. This is how I am currently leaning. Maybe a candidate for an IGH, something I've been interested in trying.
If decals cannot be sourced, would it even be an option to tape off the existing decals and chrome, and then do a "poor man's" respray around the decals. Has anyone attempted such a thing with good results, or is that just a dumb idea?
Another option is just leave frame as is, and build up as beater. I'll never be thrilled with the bike/paint in it's current condition, but at least it would discourage potential thieves.
I've seen what Southpawboston did with his Jeunet -- which is simply gorgeous (), but more than I have in mind.
I do very much like the pre-faded green color, lugs, and chrome parts; and my collection is in need of a frame with eyelets. It *might* be fun to work on a relatively obscure vintage French bike. That said, I am not emotionally vested. I could always simply post the frame on CL or here on BF (Pay It Forward perhaps), and move on to another project.
Last option: Start thinking about the 2011 Velo-Cheapo!
Finally, for what it's worth, I have completed another challenging frame re-spray. So, while I'm far from an expert, I realize what I'm getting into, and think I am up to the challenge.
What say you?
P.S. Kurt, I saw your comment in an old thread about Jeunet's that you had never seen one with a half-painted fork, just full chrome. Well, here is the half-painted fork version as shown in the catalog.
Here is a catalog page from Classic Rendezvous:
https://www.classicrendezvous.com/Fra...Jeunet_630.htm
I would use this as an errand bike, grocery-getter, and maybe rainy-day commuter, but I'm of a few minds how far I take the restoration. One side of me always wants to restore a bike as close to stock as possible--replace decals, respray to match original, build up with original parts--but in this case it's not necessarily a good use of my time & money, especially considering the use I have in mind and the near-total absence of original parts. Another side of me would like to find replacement decals, if possible, respray/repaint (there are some hand-painted details such as pinstriping on the original, which might be fun to reproduce) and then build up with "appropriate" but not necessarily stock parts. Certainly a lot easier than hunting for (difficult to find?) parts and I then have more flexibility with the parts I choose. This is how I am currently leaning. Maybe a candidate for an IGH, something I've been interested in trying.
If decals cannot be sourced, would it even be an option to tape off the existing decals and chrome, and then do a "poor man's" respray around the decals. Has anyone attempted such a thing with good results, or is that just a dumb idea?
Another option is just leave frame as is, and build up as beater. I'll never be thrilled with the bike/paint in it's current condition, but at least it would discourage potential thieves.
I've seen what Southpawboston did with his Jeunet -- which is simply gorgeous (), but more than I have in mind.
I do very much like the pre-faded green color, lugs, and chrome parts; and my collection is in need of a frame with eyelets. It *might* be fun to work on a relatively obscure vintage French bike. That said, I am not emotionally vested. I could always simply post the frame on CL or here on BF (Pay It Forward perhaps), and move on to another project.
Last option: Start thinking about the 2011 Velo-Cheapo!
Finally, for what it's worth, I have completed another challenging frame re-spray. So, while I'm far from an expert, I realize what I'm getting into, and think I am up to the challenge.
What say you?
P.S. Kurt, I saw your comment in an old thread about Jeunet's that you had never seen one with a half-painted fork, just full chrome. Well, here is the half-painted fork version as shown in the catalog.
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Last edited by gaucho777; 11-08-10 at 06:27 PM.
#2
)) <> ((
rattlecan!
tape off the chrome, and spray it all with white appliance epoxy! $10 and you'll have a nice looking ride and only be into it $35.
edit: tape off the headbadge and seat tube decals too.
tape off the chrome, and spray it all with white appliance epoxy! $10 and you'll have a nice looking ride and only be into it $35.
edit: tape off the headbadge and seat tube decals too.
Last edited by illwafer; 11-08-10 at 06:26 PM.
#3
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P.S. Seatpost is not stuck, and (before anyone says otherwise) fork is not bent.
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Rattle canning around decals would be a mistake.
Anyway I like the way it looks now - with the sun faded two tone. I'd just polish and wax it up.
Then I'd get some drops and green Tressostar tape, and 700c wheels (you can manage it with the Mafac Racers) topped off with white Panaracer tires. (I'm not usually into white tires but I'd do it just to complete the sun-faded look.) - I go with white housing too.
Anyway I like the way it looks now - with the sun faded two tone. I'd just polish and wax it up.
Then I'd get some drops and green Tressostar tape, and 700c wheels (you can manage it with the Mafac Racers) topped off with white Panaracer tires. (I'm not usually into white tires but I'd do it just to complete the sun-faded look.) - I go with white housing too.
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#8
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I'd do a brush paint job. Paint around the decals and black hesdlugs.
Find a bunch of funky french parts on ebay and build it up.
Find a bunch of funky french parts on ebay and build it up.
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Rattle canning around decals would be a mistake.
Anyway I like the way it looks now - with the sun faded two tone. I'd just polish and wax it up.
Then I'd get some drops and green Tressostar tape, and 700c wheels (you can manage it with the Mafac Racers) topped off with white Panaracer tires. (I'm not usually into white tires but I'd do it just to complete the sun-faded look.) - I go with white housing too.
Anyway I like the way it looks now - with the sun faded two tone. I'd just polish and wax it up.
Then I'd get some drops and green Tressostar tape, and 700c wheels (you can manage it with the Mafac Racers) topped off with white Panaracer tires. (I'm not usually into white tires but I'd do it just to complete the sun-faded look.) - I go with white housing too.
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this may not be not a model 630 with the Reynolds 531 frame. There is a good possibility of it being the lower model 620 "River Doubs, by virtue of the cable stops brazed onto the top tube. Jeunet's Reynolds 531 frames typically used cable clips versus stops. You can determine the actual model by measuring the size of the seat post. A Reynolds 531 frame would use a 26.4 - 26.6mm post. I'm not sure on the correct post size for a 620 frame, but I suspect it is something under 26.0mm.
Edit: The steel post and lack of shifter braze-ons also point towards a model 620.
Edit: The steel post and lack of shifter braze-ons also point towards a model 620.
Last edited by T-Mar; 11-09-10 at 08:36 AM.
#13
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I recently bought a 630 frameset from another member. I was originally going to build it up as a fixed gear, but I may restore it to original as I have most of the parts.
I agree with some of what T-Mar has written. My 630 does not have shifter braze ons and did come with a steel post. As he said, though, the 630s I've seen do not have brazed on cable stops. I think you have a 620. I agree that this would be a great platform for an IGH build.
I would clean and polish it and build it up from there.
I agree with some of what T-Mar has written. My 630 does not have shifter braze ons and did come with a steel post. As he said, though, the 630s I've seen do not have brazed on cable stops. I think you have a 620. I agree that this would be a great platform for an IGH build.
I would clean and polish it and build it up from there.
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this may not be not a model 630 with the Reynolds 531 frame. There is a good possibility of it being the lower model 620 "River Doubs, by virtue of the cable stops brazed onto the top tube. Jeunet's Reynolds 531 frames typically used cable clips versus stops. You can determine the actual model by measuring the size of the seat post. A Reynolds 531 frame would use a 26.4 - 26.6mm post. I'm not sure on the correct post size for a 620 frame, but I suspect it is something under 26.0mm.
Edit: The steel post and lack of shifter braze-ons also point towards a model 620.
Edit: The steel post and lack of shifter braze-ons also point towards a model 620.
Another way to tell is if, when you overhaul the headset, you look inside the headtube. The 620s I've worked on have a giant seam in the headtube. It's quite obvious.
Anyway, at 25$, you're fine. And the bike should be fun.
I would keep a 620, if I found one cheap in my size. They're nice and blingy, with the half chrome rear drops.
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That'd make a great IGH bike. Throw on a Sturmey Archer laced to some 700's (MAFACS reach NO PROBLEM!), grease it, wax it, ride it!
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this may not be not a model 630 with the Reynolds 531 frame. There is a good possibility of it being the lower model 620 "River Doubs, by virtue of the cable stops brazed onto the top tube. Jeunet's Reynolds 531 frames typically used cable clips versus stops. You can determine the actual model by measuring the size of the seat post. A Reynolds 531 frame would use a 26.4 - 26.6mm post. I'm not sure on the correct post size for a 620 frame, but I suspect it is something under 26.0mm.
Edit: The steel post and lack of shifter braze-ons also point towards a model 620.
Edit: The steel post and lack of shifter braze-ons also point towards a model 620.
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Last edited by gaucho777; 11-09-10 at 11:33 AM.
#17
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this may not be not a model 630 with the Reynolds 531 frame. There is a good possibility of it being the lower model 620 "River Doubs, by virtue of the cable stops brazed onto the top tube. Jeunet's Reynolds 531 frames typically used cable clips versus stops. You can determine the actual model by measuring the size of the seat post. A Reynolds 531 frame would use a 26.4 - 26.6mm post. I'm not sure on the correct post size for a 620 frame, but I suspect it is something under 26.0mm.
Edit: The steel post and lack of shifter braze-ons also point towards a model 620.
Edit: The steel post and lack of shifter braze-ons also point towards a model 620.
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I think it must in fact be a 620, not 630. Shucks, but it was destined to be beater/grocery-getter anyway, so I'm not too disappointed.
In the meantime, I found an old review from 1973 Popular Mechanics, which I quote:
Jeunet Model 620 ($160): A good 10-speed bicycle, in rather limited distribution yet. It has a high-carbon steel, lugged frame, with chromed fork and stay tips. Its three-pin steel dual chainwheel with 46 and 52 teeth, with the 14 to 26-tooth rear freewheel gear cluster, makes this a rather narrow-range model thats fine for teenagers but not geared high enough for most people over 30. Ribs and hubs are aluminum alloy with tubular tires and quick release. Lyotard steel pedals have toe clips and straps. The saddle is molded vinyl, which is rather hard for most people. Handlebars and stem are aluminum alloy. Frame sizes are 21, 23, and 25 inches. The 620 comes with Simplex Prestige derailleurs and a pump mounted in brazed-on pump clips on the top tube. This is a handsome machine that weighs only 25 pounds. Theres a lot of handwork in its stripping and finishing.
The article [CLICK], "Best Bikes to Buy: Chosen and Rated by Eugene Sloane" is the feature article from the June 1973 issue of Popular Mechanics. It may be of interest to others, as it serves as a buyer's guide of best bikes in different price ranges, including the Peugeot PX-10 and Schwinn Paramount (P15-9)--bikes which have certainly stood the test of time.
In the meantime, I found an old review from 1973 Popular Mechanics, which I quote:
Jeunet Model 620 ($160): A good 10-speed bicycle, in rather limited distribution yet. It has a high-carbon steel, lugged frame, with chromed fork and stay tips. Its three-pin steel dual chainwheel with 46 and 52 teeth, with the 14 to 26-tooth rear freewheel gear cluster, makes this a rather narrow-range model thats fine for teenagers but not geared high enough for most people over 30. Ribs and hubs are aluminum alloy with tubular tires and quick release. Lyotard steel pedals have toe clips and straps. The saddle is molded vinyl, which is rather hard for most people. Handlebars and stem are aluminum alloy. Frame sizes are 21, 23, and 25 inches. The 620 comes with Simplex Prestige derailleurs and a pump mounted in brazed-on pump clips on the top tube. This is a handsome machine that weighs only 25 pounds. Theres a lot of handwork in its stripping and finishing.
The article [CLICK], "Best Bikes to Buy: Chosen and Rated by Eugene Sloane" is the feature article from the June 1973 issue of Popular Mechanics. It may be of interest to others, as it serves as a buyer's guide of best bikes in different price ranges, including the Peugeot PX-10 and Schwinn Paramount (P15-9)--bikes which have certainly stood the test of time.
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#19
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Ribs and hubs are aluminum alloy with tubular tires and quick release. Lyotard steel pedals have toe clips and straps. The saddle is molded vinyl, which is rather hard for most people. Handlebars and stem are aluminum alloy. Frame sizes are 21, 23, and 25 inches. The 620 comes with Simplex Prestige derailleurs and a pump mounted in brazed-on pump clips on the top tube. This is a handsome machine that weighs only 25 pounds.
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interesting tidbits there. it came with tubulars? i'm surprised it weighed only 25 lbs, although i suppose having mostly alloy components helped a lot. my jeunet with reynolds DB frameset came in at 23 lb as stock... only two pounds lighter (it is now 26.5 lb with porteur rack, wider tires, fenders and lights. also, mine is exactly 24.5" c-t. i wonder if the 620 came in different size increments or if it's really 24.5" and they just "rounded up" in their claimed sizes?
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No, I still haven't measured the seat post. I've just made a deal with another BFer for the frame, so I'll be on the lookout for another winter project.
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Yes, it came with tubulars. It was a hi-tensile, club racer meant to compete against the Pegeot PA10 and Gitane Interclub. The tubulars would have bee the biggest factor in the weight but I doubt they actully weighed the test bicycle, just publishing the advertised weights, which were also based on the smallest frame available, in this case a 21" (in addition ot the 23" and 25" offered). Still this does seem a bit optimistic and I wonder if there wasn't a typo at the publishers, as I notice that my literature specs 25 lbs even for the model 611 with steel, clincher rims.
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Why would someone rattlecan it. Leave it as is, as original as it could be. Clean and fix it, then enjoy the ride.
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It will keep its patina. I like it. I think it will be pretty close to original if I build it with parts I removed from a PA10. I'll upgrade the wheels to Normandy Luxe Competition and Mavic tubular rims and the rear derailer to an SX610. I've got some Simplex Retrofrictions for it, too.
Twenty four pounds is hard to believe if it had a steel cottered crank, even with tubulars and in the smallest frame size. It's about right with a cotterless crank. That's what my upgraded PA10 weighs and the frame and compoments are similar.
Twenty four pounds is hard to believe if it had a steel cottered crank, even with tubulars and in the smallest frame size. It's about right with a cotterless crank. That's what my upgraded PA10 weighs and the frame and compoments are similar.