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  1. #1
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    Source for Raleigh DL-1 Tourist seat stay bolts?

    On the Raleigh DL-1, what type of threading was used on the bolts fastening the lower ends of the detachable seat stays? It appears to take the same type of bolt as the chaincase braze-on. I have a DL-1 and would rather find the correct bolts rather than re-tap the attachments.

  2. #2
    Senior Member southpawboston's Avatar
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    i'm pretty sure those are whitworth threaded. are you missing both? let me check my DL1 parts box and see if i have a couple of extras...

    also, the threads are not in the frame itself, but in female sleeve bolts (is that a term?) that sit flush against the inside of the chainstay... kind of like chainring bolts.

  3. #3
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    The threaded inserts are present and seem to be fine. About the only thing missing on the bike are the seatstay bolts. The fenders/mudguard and chaincase are in rough shape, but the rest is cleaning up okay.

  4. #4
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    Has this been double checked? Please tell me they're not whitworth or some other raleigh proprietary threading. I just picked up a DL-1 and quickly realized one of my bolts at the bottom of the seat stay is also stripped. My insert is also fine.

  5. #5
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    I have yet to find bolts that fit, but have not tried too hard as I've been busy with other projects.

  6. #6
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    You could always file the seat stay threads to take commonly available bolts.

  7. #7
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    Yellow Jersey Dl-1 parts

    I don't see them on this page but you might try emailing the very friendly and helpful people at yellowjersey.org to see if they have seat stay bolts.

  8. #8
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    Yellow Jersey managed to get me some bolts. Upon tightening them they stripped. So, Indian bolts are just about as soft as the originals. I know I may seem ham-fisted but the bolts were just that soft.

    Here's what I learned from some research. Whitworth 1/4" bolts are 20 TPI. UNC 1/4" bolts (hardware store coarse thread stuff) generally is also 20 TPI. The only difference between the two is the thread angle. 55 degrees for the whitworth and 60 degrees for UNC. This seemed like it would be very easy to tap out to a standard 1/4" bolt. This way I could get some decent quality stainless fasteners.

    Final solution- Those damn threaded inserts are some hard mother truckers. Neither of the taps I bought at the hardware store were able to cut new threads in them. The threads in the insert cut new threads in my taps. So, I decided, hell, the 1/4" bolts should be close enough and the inserts are hard enough that they shouldn't strip if this fails. Lining a 1/4" bolt up and tightening a little at a time than backing it off the insert will cut new threads in your bolt. essentially acting as a die. The new threads in the bolt may look a little different from what you may expect (every other thread is a little round/ pushed back) but they are symmetrical and hold damn tight.

    I know this isn't a proper fix, but it worked for me and I figured this info may be helpful to others.

    ,Will

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