Park Pre Restoration (a work in progress)
 

I have begun to restore my circa 1989 Park Pre. I'm bound to benefit from feedback along the way, so I'm starting this thread to track my progress and pose the occasional question.

A set of matching Park Pre bikes were provided to the junior Conejo Velo Club team (based in Thousand Oaks, CA) when Park Pre began its sponsorship of the team. Each rider had a chance to provide measurements and input to the framebuilder before the frames were built. The frame is fairly light, and has nice quick geometry. The frame is made of Tange Prestige II tubing. The seatcluster is interesting in that is appears to be a combination of traditional lug with filed, TIG'd seatstays(?). It was originally equiped with a Shimano 105 group--though, at the time, I replaced most of the 105 parts with various Mavic & Campy parts I already owned (with confessed Euro-snobbery). I traded or gave away most of the original 105 parts to my teamates, and subsequently stripped many of the Campy & Mavic parts off the Park Pre in the process of restoring my LOOK. So now I've decided to clean up the stripped Park Pre frame and rebuild with a 7-speed Dura Ace 74XX group that I have cobbled together.

Let me be the first to say that I dislike the paint job. I prefer classic, elegant aesthetics--say, of a vintage chrome-lugged Cinelli with nice patina--but this frame does hold a lot of nostalgia for me and I prefer to keep it in it's original form to preserve the history I associate with my racing years (I stopped racing/riding when I went away to college). Its flamboyancy may also serve to scare away prospective bike thieves. So, I will not be offended if you don't care for the flashy 80s neon pink splatter/fade paint job either.

So, without further ado, here are a few before photos:

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1538.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1523.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1528.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1551.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1553.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1530.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1531.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1537.jpg


(WTB note: I am still on the lookout for a nice wheelset with DA 7400 hubs, ideally with 7-speed DA freewheel, if anyone has a set they care to sell. Open to either clinchers or tubulars. I know it's a long shot, but, as with garage sales, you have to ask...EDIT: FOUND.)

I have an almost NOS DA 7 speed freewheel. PM me.

PM sent. Thanks.

The first issue at hand is dealing with some rust areas. The most affected area is on the downtube above the right shift lever. Other problem areas include the top brake cable guides, BB lug cutout, and at the edge of some stickers. The nice thing about this paint job is that I can probably get away with big blobs of touch up paint which will get lost in the splatter pattern. I have sanded away the rust to a certain extent, as seen below. I went down to the bare metal in some places. The rust is not pervasive across the frame, however there are tiny micro cracks at the edge of the affected areas where the sanded rust has crept in and there are little nicks & chips hare and there. I did not plan to give the frame an Oxalic Acid bath, but now I wonder if that may best course of action. I am concerned with how the Oxalic Acid bath may affect the decals, which are probably irreplaceable and not in great shape to start.

Before:
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1589.jpg

After:
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1607.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1609.jpg

What do you suggest vis-a-vis the rust? Is an OA bath overkill in this case? Keep sanding away at the rust or plan on a OA bath?

I've been remiss about updating this thread, but here's a brief progress update. I didn't hear any advice re the rust so I tackled the remaining rust with a combination of sanding, rust remover (pb blaster) and vinegar. A oxalic acid bath was probably in order, but I prefer to work with my hands rather than chemicals and I was a little worried about what it might do to the deteriorating decals. Plus, I also had visions of my 2-month-old puppy or 2-year-old daughter getting a little too curious with the OA bath.

Gratuitous cute dog photo:
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/IMG_1689.jpg

To all my C&V brethren, I caution you not to neglect these rust areas, as they are likely to spread more than you realize--particularly the ubiquitous brake caliper smack on the DT. I learned my lesson.

A fair amount of rust was also present in all three of the brake cable guides, which I addressed with some sand paper around a wire. Strips of sandpaper could then be torn off to reveal fresh sandpaper as needed. Similarly, I also used strips of sand paper wrapped on top of a pencil and secured with a hairband. I read a previous post where someone mentioned glueing sandpaper onto a pencil eraser. My method allows you to quickly slide the sandpaper down to reveal fresh sandpaper once the paper at the tip has been worn down.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1629.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/IMG_1630.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/IMG_1641.jpg

Here is the assemblage of parts for the build (DA 740X parts, plus 105 levers), some of which still need a good polishing:
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_0975.jpg

Plus these wheels (DA 7400 hubs, Wolber Super Champion Aubisque rims, Stella DB spokes, and Vittoria Corsa Evo-CX tubulars):
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/IMG_1686.jpg

I was able to match the blue paint with Testors. I am nearly finished touching up the frame by hand. Hope to finish all the paint & polishing and build it up in time for the holiday break.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/IMG_1696.jpg

(Frame only: 4.27 lbs.; Frame & fork: 5.62 lbs.)

Well now that your rust removal is done, I'll suggest Naval Jelly. Sorry, it's a bit late. I didn't notice the post before.

Nice work. I'm looking forward to seeing the final product.:thumb:

Nice approach on the cable guides, looks like you did a very nice job of removing the rust!

The cranks polished up nicely (though a couple deep gouges remain). I've decided to give many of the DA parts a little color treatment to match the frame as well.

Before:
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...IMG_0002-1.jpg

After:
http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1712.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1714.jpg

Subtle, nice.

Nice touch! I have a set of DA cranks in need of buffing and a new chainring. Thanks for inspiring me to try red highlights to match my Lemond's decals.

The Pre is turning out very well.

Thanks, tugrul & WNG. Btw, the seat post, stem, and brake calipers are getting the same color treatment. Maybe the hubs & shifters, too. You don't have to worry about being too precise. Just paint over the area with the lettering and then quickly wipe off the excess paint.

I made some good progress polishing up some parts on the Park Pre over the holidays. The brake levers (just about the only component not Dura Ace) are 105s. They were very badly scared, particularly the left side. After some oven cleaner and lots of elbow grease I am really happy with how they turned out. This prompted me to go at the (also very badly scared) 7401 pedals as well. Still some more polishing to do on the pedals. Haven't tried them out yet, so keeping my fingers crossed that the cleats will still be snug.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1783.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1785.jpg

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1788.jpg

I do have a few issues, and I could use some advice:

1. I am having a problem with headset stack height. I previously had a circa-1990 Shimano 105 headset installed. However, the DA 7400 headset appears to have a much taller stack height. (I don't have access to the old 105 headset now to confirm difference in stack heights.) I can only get the top locknut on the DA headset to go on a couple threads. The races are on the frame & fork tight, but there is a little play back & forth which I suspect is due to the fact it's only on by a couple threads. Any thoughts/tips/suggestions for addressing this stack height issue? I'm really set on using both the original fork and DA headset if at all possible.

2. Rims: As I start to hang all the parts on this bike, I'm thinking it would look better with silver/polished rims. Anyone have any suggestions for circa 1989-91 silver/polished, high-end, Japanese tubular rims?

3. BB spindle: I think I installed the BB spindle backwards. I see much more of it extending on the non-drive side. Does anyone know if the DA 7400 spindle is asymetrical? Btw, other than installing it or measuring from race to taper end, is there a quick way to tell which side is L/R (i.e. type legible from front of bike)?

4. Shift levers. Now the gray anodized shift levers stick out like a sore thumb, so I'll probably spray them with oven cleaner & give them the ol' Khatfull treatment, too, then fill in letters with blue paint as has been done with the other parts.

Notwithstanding these few items above, I just need tape, lube, cables, and air in the tires. :thumb:

It's polishing up very nicely. Do you have any pictures of those previously rusted areas after you touched them up?

Perhaps leave the rims, levers, seatpost and complement with dark (gray or black) saddle and handlebar tape???

[QUOTE=gaucho777;12021939]

2. Rims: As I start to hang all the parts on this bike, I'm thinking it would look better with silver/polished rims. Anyone have any suggestions for circa 1989-91 silver/polished, high-end, Japanese tubular rims?

Araya had some of the nicest rims: http://www.araya-kk.co.jp/rim/archive.htm

I like the Araya Aero 2 (ADX-2)

3. BB spindle: I think I installed the BB spindle backwards. I see much more of it extending on the non-drive side. Does anyone know if the DA 7400 spindle is asymetrical? Btw, other than installing it or measuring from race to taper end, is there a quick way to tell which side is L/R (i.e. type legible from front of bike)?

IIRC, the DA BB spindle is asymmetrical (and ISO taper?). I believe the spindle has the L - R markings under the Dura Ace logo. If not, I think it's supposed to be inserted so that you could read the logo text, when facing up, were you to stand at the anterior of the bike looking down, (and had X-ray vision).

This build is awesome. My modern road bike is made of Tange Prestige as well - it rides great. Can't wait to see the finished project!

:thumb:

OP, did you ever find a freewheel for that? Looks like it's really coming together.

^funny you should ask. I just won this auction. :) In this thieves' den, I was not going to mention the auction until it was over. ;)

I was very tempted by your offer, but was looking for something with a bigger range. I saved some $ and got closer to what I wanted by not winning this auction last week.

Man, I love that paint scheme. Kinda like that weird purple slime Paramount but much better

http://sunset-stories.typepad.com/.a...40b2970b-800wi

More like this me thinks

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Landshark.jpg

Cool bike and really nice polishing work on the components.
Well done!
I look forward to seeing it finished!

BTW I have two sets of skis in my basement with similar graphics. Yeah, the 80's were "extreme" ;)
I like the paint. It reminds me of the fun I had in those years (not to say I'm bored now).

Just started soaking my DA shifters in oven cleaner. Wish me luck.

http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/IMG_1831.jpg

Final steps are polish shifters, glue tires, tape bars, tighten/adjust. For tape, I was thinking about keeping it simple with some plain white old stock nylon padded tape, assuming I can find it. Anyone remember the Pelton Shade tape? If I liked pink, I'd be tempted to by this (okay, I admit, I'm still tempted). ;)

My initial reaction was to gag. Therefore, I think it would be perfect :p