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  1. #1
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    Miyata 1000 couple changes coming

    I've got a few family bikes now, all vintage Miyatas. I usually take precedence on upgrades so I'm ordering new wheels and rolling my parts downhill to the other bikes.

    I'm placing the order through Riv Bikes (built by Rich Lesnik) and will hopefully get that in immediately so it's ready for pickup over Thanksgiving. I'm going with 700c Velocity Syn 32s with a dyno hub up front. I've got a loooong night commute now, so the investment makes sense. But I can't make up my mind for the rear. This would be my first deviance from freewheels unless I go Phil, and I can't go there. I'd rather stick with a 7-speed cassette but I don't know if they offer a hub with that build. 130mm works without coldsetting, I've squeezed one on already. 36 spoke. Thoughts? I'm light-touring on the 1000, should I just suck it up and migrate over to 8/9-speed? Don't seem to miss the gears so far.

    And, I'm changing out the headset on our 1200, figured I'd do the same on the 1000. I'm torn between the VO Alloy 41mm stack and the Tange Levine 33mm. Which is correct? I'm not clear on the math for this.

    cheers,
    -Michael
    '82 Miyata 1000
    '85 Miyata 210M
    ... more to come... '82 Miyata 1200 on its way!
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/8331912...7624944030587/

  2. #2
    Senior Member rothenfield1's Avatar
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    If you meant ‘freewheel’, there are some chose’s out there that offer lower cogs. The mega range “Alpine” offered here comes to mind. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html#7

    For rear wheel build, if you plan on carrying any weight on the rear, I’d go with a 36 spoke rim with a good quality double butted spoke. Spokes are the most important thing IMHO. I've used DT Swiss Champions, but Alpine IIIs seem to be the chose for heavy loads.

    As far as headset, Tange Levin was probably original stock on the 1000, although the VO looks to me to possibly be made by the same company today. I’m unclear why the stack height would make that much of a difference. If you want to save a few bucks, the Tange Passage is the same headset with lesser quality bearings I believe.
    Half of the time I fear I may not know what the hell I’m doing; the other half, I’m sure of it.

  3. #3
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    No, I was referring to a 7-speed cassette, as opposed to the freewheels I've been working on. I assumed I was heading toward a freehub/cassette if I was getting a new rear wheel from the Riv stock. But if I have one custom built, or build it myself (probably can't resist that), I can stick with freewheel hubs... So, lets say I go with a new freewheel hub, is there a recommendation there? And what about if I go with a 7-speed cassette, what hub should I look at for that?... I constantly feel like I'm confusing the terms, like right now.

    Thanks for the cheaper Tange recommendation.

    -michael
    '82 Miyata 1000
    '85 Miyata 210M
    ... more to come... '82 Miyata 1200 on its way!
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/8331912...7624944030587/

  4. #4
    Senior Member Iowegian's Avatar
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    If you get a 130mm hub you can still run a 7 speed cassette - just use a spacer. Then you get all the benefits of a freehub wheel and the freedom to run 6,7,8,9,10 speeds by choosing a cassette (and spacer if needed) and shifters.

    As for the headset, a lower stack height is more versatile than a higher stack height. First you need to make sure the fork is long enough for the stack height of the headset you pick. The math is that the (length of the fork steer tube) - (length of the frame headtube) >= (stack height of the headset). If not, the steer tube won't be long enough and the last part of the headset won't have enough threads to hold onto. You can always add a few spacers if the steerer is long but if it's too short you are SOL.

  5. #5
    )) <> (( illwafer's Avatar
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    ive got velocity synergy and xt hubs on my miyata 1000 at 135mm. it is also my only bike that is 9speed (xt cassette).

    ive also got the tange levin on mine.

  6. #6
    Senior Member rothenfield1's Avatar
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    ^
    Nice!
    Half of the time I fear I may not know what the hell I’m doing; the other half, I’m sure of it.

  7. #7
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    That is nice!

    I've seen those straps sold at Riv Bikes, called "Power Grips". The same? How do you like em?

    So, you squeezed a 135mm in there? What year is your 1000, it looks like there's the extra bottle brazons of a 1985-86. Do you think the model was already spread for 130mm, did you cold-press?

    What I don't like about going Shimano 105 or XT for my rear hub, is the divergence, further, from what I enjoy about the reused parts I've salvaged thus far. I like maintaining the open seal components; I like the story of Suntour vs Shimano; I like milled levers. IDK, guess I'm being fussy, but I'd love to find a rear hub that doesn't break that cycle, and still gives me some modern 7-speed gearing options. Like an 11-13 and 32 (I could get schooled here)... To be honest, I've ridden just fine on hand-outs. Now that I'm faced with a new purchase, there's too much to consider. If you handed me a 105 hub, I'd clean it up and use it and be happy for the chance. So, I'll shut-up now.

    cheers everyone,
    -Michael
    '82 Miyata 1000
    '85 Miyata 210M
    ... more to come... '82 Miyata 1200 on its way!
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/8331912...7624944030587/

  8. #8
    grad stud. dashuaigeh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by illwafer View Post
    ive got velocity synergy and xt hubs on my miyata 1000 at 135mm. it is also my only bike that is 9speed (xt cassette).
    I'm also curious about this spacing issue - my LBS recommended against cold setting two sizes up. Sheldon seems to think this is ok - what are your experiences?

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