Those of you who have successfully recovered saddles -
#1
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Those of you who have successfully recovered saddles -
I'm thinking of giving this a try with an old Concor. I've read up a bit and I believe I understand the basic process but I'm wondering:
1. Where do you source leather? I was thinking of an upscale upholstery shop.
2. Do you request a particular grade or weight of leather? Obviously it can't be too thick or it won't lay down as it should. It needs to be durable, and color-fast would be nice.
3. Do you replace the padding, and if so where do you source that? What density do I want? (I think I can re-use what's on the saddle, but I'm trying to be thorough, and heaven knows what's going to happen when I try to peel the old leather off.)
4. What kind of contact cement do you recommend, or not recommend?
Answers to questions not asked are of course welcomed as well. Thanks.
1. Where do you source leather? I was thinking of an upscale upholstery shop.
2. Do you request a particular grade or weight of leather? Obviously it can't be too thick or it won't lay down as it should. It needs to be durable, and color-fast would be nice.
3. Do you replace the padding, and if so where do you source that? What density do I want? (I think I can re-use what's on the saddle, but I'm trying to be thorough, and heaven knows what's going to happen when I try to peel the old leather off.)
4. What kind of contact cement do you recommend, or not recommend?
Answers to questions not asked are of course welcomed as well. Thanks.
#2
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I've done a few...
1) I've only worked in vinyl, never leather, so I can't help you there.
2) If you can carefully remove the old covering without taking bits of padding with it then re-padding shouldn't be necessary. If you do, put on a layer of wool felt from a fabrics store. Not craft felt, wool felt. Google it.
3) Pretty much any contact cement will do. Be careful of spray adhesives, many of them are NOT contact cements. I want to find some Landau Cement, made for adhering landau roofs to cars....many report it to be VERY strong and VERY heat resistant once cured.
Show us some results...good luck!
1) I've only worked in vinyl, never leather, so I can't help you there.
2) If you can carefully remove the old covering without taking bits of padding with it then re-padding shouldn't be necessary. If you do, put on a layer of wool felt from a fabrics store. Not craft felt, wool felt. Google it.
3) Pretty much any contact cement will do. Be careful of spray adhesives, many of them are NOT contact cements. I want to find some Landau Cement, made for adhering landau roofs to cars....many report it to be VERY strong and VERY heat resistant once cured.
Show us some results...good luck!
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What do you think your labor/materials would be in the end? A new Concor is under $100.
You may want to contact this guy, I've seen his work, and it's not shabby at all:
https://www.recoveredsaddle.com/
You may want to contact this guy, I've seen his work, and it's not shabby at all:
https://www.recoveredsaddle.com/
#4
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I can tell you three places you can get the right leather, but I don't know what kind you need.
www.eleathersupply.com
www.tandyleather.com
www.springfieldleather.com
I've bought from all 3 and I prefer Springfield Leather for their price but Tandy is pretty much the best selection and the customer service is really very good. They've got regional locations around the country so things don't have to ship super far.
I'm watching this thread with interest...I've got a trashed Ideale and a Wrights that sombody hacked into a swallow-ish thing that's just waiting to give me a seatpost enema.
www.eleathersupply.com
www.tandyleather.com
www.springfieldleather.com
I've bought from all 3 and I prefer Springfield Leather for their price but Tandy is pretty much the best selection and the customer service is really very good. They've got regional locations around the country so things don't have to ship super far.
I'm watching this thread with interest...I've got a trashed Ideale and a Wrights that sombody hacked into a swallow-ish thing that's just waiting to give me a seatpost enema.
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I would think that the Concor could be a harder saddle to start/practice with, compared to others as it has very tight contours and minimal padding that if you don't get to cover and pad just right, might not turn out as good as original. Frankly, I'm chicken at these things but, If I were to do a first saddle recover, I might first consider a more rounded, smoother profile one like the Selle Italia Turbo, or something similar.
But nothing is impossible if you do your homework on it and take your time.
Chombi
But nothing is impossible if you do your homework on it and take your time.
Chombi
Last edited by Chombi; 11-18-10 at 07:28 PM.
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My Fujita that Keith did for me:
Scott
Scott
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#7
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I was just in a shoe repair shop yesterday to get a quote to re-cover vintage Rolls and Flite saddles, both of which are in pretty bad shape. The guy quotes me $60 each and I talk him down to $50. I ask how much for just the leather and he quotes $45 each for just the leather. Huh? Whatever. I'll look elsewhere. But that's not the part that annoys me. As I turn toward the door, this woman standing next to me says to everyone within earshot, "Geez, what's wrong with you. Just buy a new bike seat!" and then proceeds to start laughing mockingly to the room. I look down and of course she's there to have some cheap shoes repaired, so I say, "There's nothing wrong with me, lady. Why don't you buy a new pair of shoes?"
Sorry for the rant. Just ticked me off. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing your recommendations, too.
Sorry for the rant. Just ticked me off. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing your recommendations, too.
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'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
Last edited by gaucho777; 11-18-10 at 07:27 PM.
#8
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Wow, Keith! Nice work, as always!
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-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I was just in a shoe repair shop yesterday to get a quote to re-cover vintage Rolls and Flite saddles, both of which are in pretty bad shape. The guy quotes me $60 each and I talk him down to $50. I ask how much for just the leather and he quotes $45 each for just the leather. Huh? Whatever. I'll look elsewhere. But that's not the part that annoys me. As I turn toward the door, this woman standing next to me says to everyone within earshot, "Geez, what's wrong with you. Just buy a new bike seat!" and then proceeds to start laughing mockingly to the room. I look down and of course she's there to have some cheap shoes repaired, so I say, "There's nothing wrong with me, lady. Why don't you buy a new pair of shoes?"
What do you think your labor/materials would be in the end? A new Concor is under $100.
Chombi, you're right about the Concor profile being perhaps a challenging beginner's project, but it happens to be what I like and what I have that needs a re-cover. As it is, I'm still riding it with the back end pretty worn out, and it may take me a while to work up the nerve to rip the rest of the cover off.
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