Chrome Bike - Please Give Your Component and Color Choice Input (PICS)
#1
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Thread Starter
Chrome Bike - Please Give Your Component and Color Choice Input (PICS)
My '87 Voyageur is taking shape thanks to the wheelset, handlebars and saddle that I robbed from my chrome Voyageur 11.8. So, I need to get a new saddle and wheelset built for it. This will be one of my winter projects.
I'm also seriously considering replacing the crankset. While the Grand Cru 50.4 BCD is one of the best looking cranksets available, I think I made a mistake getting the 175mm arms.
Here's what I think I want to do for my first wheel build:
Rear:
32h freewheel hub (DA, Superbe, just something nice)
7 sp IRD freewheel (13-32)
Double butted SS spokes
Brass nipples
Mavic Open Pro rims (black)
Challenge Parigi-Roubaix (skinwall)
Front:
Dynamo hub (not yet determined)
Double butted SS spokes
Brass nipples
Mavic Open Pro rims (black)
Challenge Parigi-Roubaix (skinwall)
I'm 5'11" and 180 lbs. I ride on some rougher paved areas, but I don't consider myself rough on my bikes. Am I ok with the double butted spokes?
I really like the look of the Challenge Parigi-Roubaix tires on black rims. I'm leaning towards a Brooks Swift but I don't want an all black and chrome bike. So, I'm thinking about a brown Swift (chrome rails) and brown leather wrap or a colored cloth and shellac on the bars. It will have brown leather toe straps. It's getting the VO Course handlebars and Shimano SLR aero levers with black hoods.
I'm also thinking about putting a more modern compact (50/34) crankset on this bike. I like the looks of the grey rings on the SRAM Rival or newer Dura Ace. I could buy a used one, remove the anodizing and logo and polish the arms.
So what do you think?
The bike in question before I robbed it of its wheelset, saddle and bars.
SRAM Rival compact crank
An example of Parigi-Roubaix tires on black rims
Brooks Swift in brown:
I'm also seriously considering replacing the crankset. While the Grand Cru 50.4 BCD is one of the best looking cranksets available, I think I made a mistake getting the 175mm arms.
Here's what I think I want to do for my first wheel build:
Rear:
32h freewheel hub (DA, Superbe, just something nice)
7 sp IRD freewheel (13-32)
Double butted SS spokes
Brass nipples
Mavic Open Pro rims (black)
Challenge Parigi-Roubaix (skinwall)
Front:
Dynamo hub (not yet determined)
Double butted SS spokes
Brass nipples
Mavic Open Pro rims (black)
Challenge Parigi-Roubaix (skinwall)
I'm 5'11" and 180 lbs. I ride on some rougher paved areas, but I don't consider myself rough on my bikes. Am I ok with the double butted spokes?
I really like the look of the Challenge Parigi-Roubaix tires on black rims. I'm leaning towards a Brooks Swift but I don't want an all black and chrome bike. So, I'm thinking about a brown Swift (chrome rails) and brown leather wrap or a colored cloth and shellac on the bars. It will have brown leather toe straps. It's getting the VO Course handlebars and Shimano SLR aero levers with black hoods.
I'm also thinking about putting a more modern compact (50/34) crankset on this bike. I like the looks of the grey rings on the SRAM Rival or newer Dura Ace. I could buy a used one, remove the anodizing and logo and polish the arms.
So what do you think?
The bike in question before I robbed it of its wheelset, saddle and bars.
SRAM Rival compact crank
An example of Parigi-Roubaix tires on black rims
Brooks Swift in brown:
#2
PanGalacticGargleBlaster
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I think those Challenge Tires on Black rims will looks supremely hot. I've been thinking that the Parigi Roubaix (spelling?) might be the next high-end tire I try out as well.
You shouldn't have any issues with Double Butted spokes, I beat my wheels pretty hard and nearly all of em use DB spokes.
I've read too many reviews of the IRD freewheels failing....like a lot. I was freewheel shopping back over the summer and I was led to believe that the IRD ones were the only Freewheels with Hyperglide style ramped cogs...which was the main thing I wanted in a new freewheel. So I was getting ready to roll the dice on one until I found out that SunRace Freewheels also have HyperGlide-esque cogs and cost about half of what the IRD does and nobody's been reporting that their SunRace freewheel ratcheting mech's are dying.
I'd look for a cartridge bearing rear hub like Suntour XC, Mavic, Specialized or something like that. If you'd prefer loose balls I can say that I love my Dura-Ace hubs
Sugino Mighty Tour crankset might work well on there....
You shouldn't have any issues with Double Butted spokes, I beat my wheels pretty hard and nearly all of em use DB spokes.
I've read too many reviews of the IRD freewheels failing....like a lot. I was freewheel shopping back over the summer and I was led to believe that the IRD ones were the only Freewheels with Hyperglide style ramped cogs...which was the main thing I wanted in a new freewheel. So I was getting ready to roll the dice on one until I found out that SunRace Freewheels also have HyperGlide-esque cogs and cost about half of what the IRD does and nobody's been reporting that their SunRace freewheel ratcheting mech's are dying.
I'd look for a cartridge bearing rear hub like Suntour XC, Mavic, Specialized or something like that. If you'd prefer loose balls I can say that I love my Dura-Ace hubs
Sugino Mighty Tour crankset might work well on there....
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#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, ZB.
I'm totally up for a sealed bearing hub. I suppose it just depends on what I find. The main thing I am looking for in a freewheel is HG style cogs and a reasonably large and evenly spread range. I just found a SunRace 13-30t 7speed. That should work.
FYI, you spelled it right. Gold star for you, mister!
I'm totally up for a sealed bearing hub. I suppose it just depends on what I find. The main thing I am looking for in a freewheel is HG style cogs and a reasonably large and evenly spread range. I just found a SunRace 13-30t 7speed. That should work.
FYI, you spelled it right. Gold star for you, mister!
#4
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DB spokes should be fine. Your wheelbuilder will be more of a factor in the wheels' integrity than whether you run DB/straight-gauge spokes.
I've been very pleased with my Shimano DH-3N80 dynohub. Looks nice, and works great. Plus it's not terribly expensive.
I've been very pleased with my Shimano DH-3N80 dynohub. Looks nice, and works great. Plus it's not terribly expensive.
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What a beautiful chrome bike! Can you share with us how you removed the decals, I might be faced with a similar project on the very same model.
#6
Senior Member
Well, I'm certainly going to follow your progress with interest.
Personally, when it comes to freewheel hubs, I'm a serious fan of Phil. That said, any good hub will do.
Double-butted are better than straight gauge. There are proponents of both sides to this argument, but I'm a good 45 lbs heavier (okay, fatter) than you. I go with double-butted. I also tend to favor 36h rear wheels. My current build-in-process is a 36h rear and 32h front. Phil hubs, VO Diagonale rims. But I'm going fat Schwalbe XRs for tires. Nothing like a bit of overkill.
The weight issue is the same reason I won't go to the Swift saddle. Years ago, maybe. Now it's the BB King anthem: I'm built for comfort...
Just curious: Was the sprung Brooks that came off it just too wide? Too something else?
Shame that the new VO Dyno hub isn't out. But it may not be until way into next Spring.
Anyway, keep us posted.
Personally, when it comes to freewheel hubs, I'm a serious fan of Phil. That said, any good hub will do.
Double-butted are better than straight gauge. There are proponents of both sides to this argument, but I'm a good 45 lbs heavier (okay, fatter) than you. I go with double-butted. I also tend to favor 36h rear wheels. My current build-in-process is a 36h rear and 32h front. Phil hubs, VO Diagonale rims. But I'm going fat Schwalbe XRs for tires. Nothing like a bit of overkill.
The weight issue is the same reason I won't go to the Swift saddle. Years ago, maybe. Now it's the BB King anthem: I'm built for comfort...
Just curious: Was the sprung Brooks that came off it just too wide? Too something else?
Shame that the new VO Dyno hub isn't out. But it may not be until way into next Spring.
Anyway, keep us posted.
__________________
1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks! The fella I bought the bike from removed the clear coat with a paint remover of some sort then used metal polish on the frame. He actually put replacement (not original and not quite right) decals on it. I removed them because they didn't adhere well and I like the looks of it without decals better.
Last edited by ColonelJLloyd; 11-22-10 at 03:25 PM.
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no way.. use chrome rims with tan sidewalls. the blacks are way too 80's if you want classics.. something like sun cr18's, or use a silver open pro or something. chrome and black is a little too much of an abomination against classicism unless you're doing a mid 80's racing bike.. in which case gp4's are totally acceptable..
i ride DB spokes on my 319 3 cross 32 holers on some pretty rough roads, and haven't really run into any problems with 32s on the wheels.
i'm fully for the brown and chrome.. the brown humanizes the chrome machiney... oh yeah-- and KEEP the VO cranks if you can.. just WAY too gorgeous.. if you have to sell 'em and put another pair on that fit better!
i ride DB spokes on my 319 3 cross 32 holers on some pretty rough roads, and haven't really run into any problems with 32s on the wheels.
i'm fully for the brown and chrome.. the brown humanizes the chrome machiney... oh yeah-- and KEEP the VO cranks if you can.. just WAY too gorgeous.. if you have to sell 'em and put another pair on that fit better!
Last edited by shorthanded; 11-22-10 at 03:26 PM.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Double-butted are better than straight gauge. There are proponents of both sides to this argument, but I'm a good 45 lbs heavier (okay, fatter) than you. I go with double-butted. I also tend to favor 36h rear wheels. My current build-in-process is a 36h rear and 32h front. Phil hubs, VO Diagonale rims. But I'm going fat Schwalbe XRs for tires. Nothing like a bit of overkill.
Hell no. I love that saddle; it's on the touring Voyageur now. I just don't want a sprung saddle on this bike. It won't be faster because I'm still riding it, but I'm not opposed to it having a more aggressive aesthetic (hence the black rims). I'll go either with a Swift or B17 Special probably.
#10
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Below is a pic of my commuter. Wheels are laced with Wheelsmith DB spokes. Bike weighs 32 pounds as pictured, which doesn't include the 10-15 pounds that I usually carry in my panniers (not shown). I weigh 192 pounds, and occasionally ride it on dirt trails. No problems due to spoke choice (rims are 32h Velocity Dyads).
I, personally, wouldn't build a wheel around a new-to-market dynohub until someone else has done some real-world testing.
I, personally, wouldn't build a wheel around a new-to-market dynohub until someone else has done some real-world testing.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I do believe that VO has been testing that hub for a year or more, though.
Like I said, my bike has a crush on your bike. Big time.
#14
Lug Princess
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Wait, does the VO Grand Cru crankset come *only* with 175mm arms? That seems kind of crazy.
If not, I'd just get shorter arms.
Have never tried this crankset, so cannot comment as to functionality. But it looks just right on your bike.
BTW, I don't want to spam BF with links to my blog, but maybe of relevance to you:
Colour Theory for Bikes (just written today)
Mesmerising Metallics (from last week)
If not, I'd just get shorter arms.
Have never tried this crankset, so cannot comment as to functionality. But it looks just right on your bike.
BTW, I don't want to spam BF with links to my blog, but maybe of relevance to you:
Colour Theory for Bikes (just written today)
Mesmerising Metallics (from last week)
#15
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That Soma looks really nice. I'm the guy that's crazy enough to do the real-world testing. "Local cyclist dies as new-fangled dynohub explodes in rush-hour traffic". What a way to go!
I do believe that VO has been testing that hub for a year or more, though.
Like I said, my bike has a crush on your bike. Big time.
I do believe that VO has been testing that hub for a year or more, though.
Like I said, my bike has a crush on your bike. Big time.
While not cheap, and not everyone's cup of (aesthetic) tea, the T.A. Carmina crankset is kinda spiffy looking.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Wait, does the VO Grand Cru crankset come *only* with 175mm arms? That seems kind of crazy.
If not, I'd just get shorter arms.
Have never tried this crankset, so cannot comment as to functionality. But it looks just right on your bike.
BTW, I don't want to spam BF with links to my blog, but maybe of relevance to you:
Colour Theory for Bikes (just written today)
Mesmerising Metallics (from last week)
If not, I'd just get shorter arms.
Have never tried this crankset, so cannot comment as to functionality. But it looks just right on your bike.
BTW, I don't want to spam BF with links to my blog, but maybe of relevance to you:
Colour Theory for Bikes (just written today)
Mesmerising Metallics (from last week)
Thanks for the links.
I'm not crazy about the Carmina, but I like the Alize and Zephyr.
Last edited by ColonelJLloyd; 11-22-10 at 03:57 PM.
#17
Lug Princess
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oh and re dynohubs:
I have the Schmidt SON on one of my bikes, and the Shimano Alfine on another, with identical headlight & tail light set-ups. Both set-ups have been performing wonderfully (though I have gone 1,800 miles on the Shimano but only 300 or so on the Schmidt so far). I'll be damned if I can tell the difference.
I have the Schmidt SON on one of my bikes, and the Shimano Alfine on another, with identical headlight & tail light set-ups. Both set-ups have been performing wonderfully (though I have gone 1,800 miles on the Shimano but only 300 or so on the Schmidt so far). I'll be damned if I can tell the difference.
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Might be a little late, but I had purchased the Grand Cru 50.4 BCD crank and wasn't too happy with it. FIrst off, the razor-like bolt holes in cheap dust caps ground away my shoes at the heel. The Q-factor was too low for me, and I had to use pedal spacers, BUT, I'm a big guy (also, had I done that originally, my shoes would have been spared).
I also had to replace the big chainring with an original TA chainring, due to several difficulties I was having - the crank arms and the thick VO chainring leave minimal space for a derailleur cage. At the VO blog, Chris claims that any front derailleur is fine, but I disagree after going through 3 different derailleurs. Older simplex, huret and suntour derailleurs work the best. But.... It is a beautiful crank, and it spoiled me in that sense. And if you mount an original TA chainring on, the whole crank looks like a giant mirror-finish watch component. After all the issues I had, which in fairness may have been due to my own riding style, I decided to take another route.
I ended up Purchasing a Campagnolo racing triple on ebay, and had a buddy with a metal shop polish the crank arms to a mirror finish (It wasn't cheap and took him 4 hours, but if you like shiny, finding someone with a metal shop to owe a lot of favors to is very important). I then ordered a set of TA chainrings which are gorgeous, to match. They just arrived and I will be mounting the new crankset this weekend.
-Court
I also had to replace the big chainring with an original TA chainring, due to several difficulties I was having - the crank arms and the thick VO chainring leave minimal space for a derailleur cage. At the VO blog, Chris claims that any front derailleur is fine, but I disagree after going through 3 different derailleurs. Older simplex, huret and suntour derailleurs work the best. But.... It is a beautiful crank, and it spoiled me in that sense. And if you mount an original TA chainring on, the whole crank looks like a giant mirror-finish watch component. After all the issues I had, which in fairness may have been due to my own riding style, I decided to take another route.
I ended up Purchasing a Campagnolo racing triple on ebay, and had a buddy with a metal shop polish the crank arms to a mirror finish (It wasn't cheap and took him 4 hours, but if you like shiny, finding someone with a metal shop to owe a lot of favors to is very important). I then ordered a set of TA chainrings which are gorgeous, to match. They just arrived and I will be mounting the new crankset this weekend.
-Court
Last edited by cloudhead; 04-29-11 at 05:55 PM. Reason: appended content
#19
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Might be a little late, but I had purchased the Grand Cru 50.4 BCD crank and wasn't too happy with it. FIrst off, the razor-like bolt holes in cheap dust caps ground away my shoes at the heel. The Q-factor was too low for me, and I had to use pedal spacers, BUT, I'm a big guy (also, had I done that originally, my shoes would have been spared).
I also had to replace the big chainring with an original TA chainring, due to several difficulties I was having - the crank arms and the thick VO chainring leave minimal space for a derailleur cage. At the VO blog, Chris claims that any front derailleur is fine, but I disagree after going through 3 different derailleurs. Older simplex, huret and suntour derailleurs work the best. But.... It is a beautiful crank, and it spoiled me in that sense. And if you mount an original TA chainring on, the whole crank looks like a giant mirror-finish watch component. After all the issues I had, which in fairness may have been due to my own riding style, I decided to take another route.
I also had to replace the big chainring with an original TA chainring, due to several difficulties I was having - the crank arms and the thick VO chainring leave minimal space for a derailleur cage. At the VO blog, Chris claims that any front derailleur is fine, but I disagree after going through 3 different derailleurs. Older simplex, huret and suntour derailleurs work the best. But.... It is a beautiful crank, and it spoiled me in that sense. And if you mount an original TA chainring on, the whole crank looks like a giant mirror-finish watch component. After all the issues I had, which in fairness may have been due to my own riding style, I decided to take another route.
-Kurt
#20
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That's so gay.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#21
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I always thought it be nice to get a colored Brooks and follow through with that color in Bar tape, maybe lug lines or perhaps box lining. Green on Chrome would be nice and subtle or Blue/Chrome for an icy look.
+10000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000!
Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd
Like I said, my bike has a crush on your bike. Big time.
noglider
That's so gay.
Like I said, my bike has a crush on your bike. Big time.
noglider
That's so gay.
#22
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+1 to sealed bearing hubs
+1 to the spiffy TA Carmina crank
+1 to the colored brooks
+1 to chromed rims with tan sidewalls
+1 to the spiffy TA Carmina crank
+1 to the colored brooks
+1 to chromed rims with tan sidewalls
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#25
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A Huffy?