The man who dies with the most toys…is dead. - Rootboy
I'm fully on board with the OP's slow and steady polishing method. In fact, if you have the full range of grits, its not that bad.
Sorry if I missed it, but I've always found a good squeeze of liquid dish soap, in a couple of quarts of water, makes for quicker sanding than straight H2O. Was taught that years ago color sanding paint.
Also became well acquainted with MicoMesh about a couple decades back, after damaging a rather expensive Cessna 421 windshield. The pilots side had an embedded gold mesh for deicing. MicroMesh quite literally saved my bacon.
if i am setting a bike for someone else and dont have a bike to measure i leave the saddle very high to prevent having to come back out.
Another little trick for getting into nooks and crannies are mandrel mounted Cratex rubberized abrasives. Mounts in your Dremel or Foredom tool. They make lots of different shapes. Very handy.
Great stuff here Keith, as usual. Thanks.
I did not read every post, so sorry if this has been covered, but I saw a question about how much sanding you should do between coats.
If you do a "guide coat" you will always know how much, and that you did not miss any spots. Use machinist blue usually sold as Dykem brand to completely cover your part between grits. When all the blue is gone you know you sanded the whole part, and if you are leaving any really big scratches it's easier to see as the blue will tend to stay in those. It's a lot of extra work (easier if you find the spray-on Dykem as opposed to the brush-on). But if you really want good results it's the way to go.
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My Khatfull inspired handy work
I'm a victim of my own stupidity.
Pic 1 de-anodizng
Pic 2 blackened after de-anodizing
Pic 3 after removing of black layer. Imperfections still filled with black layer
Pic 4 after polishing
Pic 5 ....
Pic 6 ....
I love to polish aluminum bicycle parts. I actually like a highly polished aluminum surface better than chrome. That is as long as I don't start off with an clear anodized part. I use a lot of 3M 401Q Imperial 2000 and 3000 Wet or dry paper. My current polishing project is a set of NOS Mavic Module E clincher rims. I don't have a buffing machine so everything I do is by hand. It's a bit hard on the arthritis but it's well worth it in the end.
1976 Takara Grand Touring
1976 Raleigh Technium
1976 Raleigh Sports
1978 Schwinn Paramount P13-9
1998 Raleigh SC30
1954 Schwinn Jaguar
1954 Schwinn Phantom
The polishing dosen't match
I got the top hub from a friend
I got bottom one today man it was filthy but I need to polish it like the top I used my hand and some mothers polish
Last edited by kc0yef; 03-08-12 at 10:56 PM. Reason: polishing it
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but there's some very good info here.
I do have a couple of questions though. I'll be getting a raw al. (unicycle) frame this week that I plan to polish up. It's already brushed, and I bought some 600-2000 wet/dry sandpaper and Mothers.
My first question is, how hard is it to deal with welds? Welds and cable guides are where I'm most concerned about sanding. I'm just not sure how hard it'll be to sand dimpled areas like the welds and tight spots.
My next question is, I've heard about wet sanding with minereal spirits, and also vegetable oil, along with just plain water. I had planned on using just water, but is there something better?
And has anyone finished polishing with just the Mothers (no wax or protectants)? How did it hold up as far as corrosion goes?
Is there anyway that all the sanding could somehow weaken the frame?
I'm hoping this is an idiot-proof process because if there's a way to screw it up, usually I try to find it.
Last edited by Shinkers; 07-27-14 at 10:08 PM.
I also have a polished raw aluminum frame. It's a Easy Racers Gold Rush recumbent that I bought used and apparently had been kept outside in the Airizona sun for a couple years. It came to me dinged up and very oxidized.
I disassembled the whole bike, stripped off the stickers, and went crazy: 600 grit wet sandpaper (with water) to smooth the worst dings, followed by red rubbing compound, followed by white polishing compound, finished with Mother Mag Polish. I used a small cloth wheel on a drill motor to work into the recesses of the welds, but the long stretches of tube were done by hand.
It's held up fine for the last several years. I re-polish it every 4 or 5 months. It brightens up noticeably, but it's not that bad in the intervening months.
Here's pictures: All My Bikes . I'm a better mechanic than I am a photographer.
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Would you say the welds are doable by hand?
How have your decals held up to the polishing (they look fine in the pictures...)?
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This is one of the best threads on BF. @khatfull Thank you some much Mike
85 Gios Professional-95 Cinelli SC-97 Merlin Extralight-06 Colnago C 50- 71 Peugeot PX 10-74 Peugeot Mixte-73 Peugeot Mixte
Ridding the world of derailleurs, one bicycle at a time.
46 Hercules Roadster, 49 Hercules Kestrel, 50 Norman Rapide, 51 Hercules Lion, 52 Hercules Windsor, 56 Hercules Royal Prince, 61 Fiorelli Tandem, 67 Carlton Super Race (IGH), 70 Schwinn Collegiate (IGH), 71 Hercules, 71 STF Hercules, 72 Peugeot PX-8 (IGH), 76 Raleigh Sports, 77 STF Raleigh Sports, 77 Jack Taylor Tandem, Early-80's Mike Appel SC, 84 Davidson Tandem, Late-80's Alpine, 10 Bilenky "BQ" Signature Tandem
Okay, here's another question. Since my frame is already brushed al., what would the effect of only Mothers polish be do you think?
Like the idea about oven cleaner- (chainrings I am looking at you)
+1 on the buffing wheel.
like silvo for aluminum. (cannot get simchrome here)