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Old 07-29-14, 05:52 PM   #101
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Okay, sorry I have one more dumb question then I'll stop!

Is rubbing alcohol okay to use on raw aluminum just for general cleaning? I had a couple of marks on it (for placing a decal) and then wiped the marks off with rubbing alcohol.

Thanks.
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Old 07-29-14, 08:37 PM   #102
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Okay, sorry I have one more dumb question then I'll stop!

Is rubbing alcohol okay to use on raw aluminum just for general cleaning? I had a couple of marks on it (for placing a decal) and then wiped the marks off with rubbing alcohol.

Thanks.
Yes.
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Old 07-29-14, 08:42 PM   #103
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Okay, here's another question. Since my frame is already brushed aluminum., what would the effect of only Mothers polish be do you think?

Not much. Maybe make a little shinier. If it's "brushed" , you need to work up to "polished" in stages. That means progressively finer grits. If you want to attack it, go to the local auto parts store and get some red rubbing compound and white polishing compound. Go after your frame with the red first. Use lots of rags- old t-shirts work well. Expect to make a mess. Follow the red with the white. Expect more mess. Follow the white with the Mothers. Expect to be locked out of the house because of the mess you made. You'll be homeless, but your bike will be shiny.
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Old 07-29-14, 10:07 PM   #104
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^ these help with the mess:
Amazon.com: Gojo 1432 Large Hi-Tactile Glove: Automotive

You can usually find something similar at auto parts stores. I wouldn't pay more than $8 though. (Retail price is listed at $28!?, but on sale for $7.47.) Not long ago I got a 6-pack of the Gojo Hi Tactile gloves linked above from my local Costco for a ridiculously low price, but their inventory changes frequently. Highly recommended for polishing work.

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Old 06-25-15, 09:55 PM   #105
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I realize that this is an old and ongoing post, but I just had to comment on how well this process works. I've done a pair of hubs, a rim and a crankset. While now show car quality, they certainly look great an a refurbished bike.
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Old 01-10-16, 12:43 PM   #106
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This is a great thread,
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Old 08-24-16, 02:03 AM   #107
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Just used this again
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Old 08-24-16, 09:59 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Wills View Post
Not much. Maybe make a little shinier. If it's "brushed" , you need to work up to "polished" in stages. That means progressively finer grits. If you want to attack it, go to the local auto parts store and get some red rubbing compound and white polishing compound. Go after your frame with the red first. Use lots of rags- old t-shirts work well. Expect to make a mess. Follow the red with the white. Expect more mess. Follow the white with the Mothers. Expect to be locked out of the house because of the mess you made. You'll be homeless, but your bike will be shiny.
Since this is a necro-bump, someone may as well quote the best post in the thread.
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Old 05-27-17, 09:34 AM   #109
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Another Bump

I was referred to this thread and had some pretty good luck starting on these Specialites T.A. Pro 5 Vis cranks. Thanks so much for the details. Does anyone know the best place to acquire Norton Black Ice Waterproof Sandpaper? Amazon has 50-sheet packs, it's $40-50 each, I might want a bit less, maybe 25 sheets, but more than 5 or 10.





More here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/specia...57681452632972
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Old 05-27-17, 09:53 AM   #110
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I was referred to this thread and had some pretty good luck starting on these Specialites T.A. Pro 5 Vis cranks. Thanks so much for the details. Does anyone know the best place to acquire Norton Black Ice Waterproof Sandpaper? Amazon has 50-sheet packs, it's $40-50 each, I might want a bit less, maybe 25 sheets, but more than 5 or 10.
Try an auto parts store. They will always have wet or dry sandpaper of one brand or another. Is there some particular reason you want Norton "Black Ice"?
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Old 05-27-17, 10:04 AM   #111
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As long as this thread is bumped, this might be a good time to point out that there are several competing sandpaper numbering systems. For wet or dry papers, these days they are usually graded on the European P scale. For practical purposes, this can usually be assumed with wet or dry finishing paper, but not always. The old US system was CAMI, which is similar in the lower grades, and is still used. Micromesh has their own system which is totally different than everyone else's.

Look here for conversion.

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Old 05-27-17, 10:15 AM   #112
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Try an auto parts store. They will always have wet or dry sandpaper of one brand or another. Is there some particular reason you want Norton "Black Ice"?

Thanks for the info.

I like the way it sounds

Just kidding, it's what the author recommended on page 3.

I have used normal wet dry "SandWet" Norton 220 recently, and it's pretty good.

I'm going on the author's recommendation. I think Norton is trusted in the automotive industry.



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As of late I’ve become absolutely SOLD on Norton Black Ice waterproof sandpaper. I simply love the stuff. It lasts a VERY long time, it sands beautifully, and cuts fast:

You’ll probably need to find a local auto paint/finishing store to find this…or online. This paper will not be a typical big box store or hardware store item. It is more expensive, be prepared, but I honestly don’t think there’s a comparison between this and the other papers I've used.

For sanding out flaws I’ve been using the 320 grit Black Ice paper and the Norton dual density sanding pad:


Once the flaws are gone, or as gone as I dare make them, I switch to the new grit progression I use since using the Black Ice paper: 600, 1200, 2500. Yep, three grades. I can’t do this with paper other than the Black Ice because of how evenly and quickly it cuts. Wet sanded of course.

I’ll use the sanding pad with the 600 but the 1200 and 2500 I’ll use by hand. The 1200 and 2500 when wet become very flexible, it’s almost like wiping the part with an abrasive rag. The 2500 especially. Regarding the 2500 grit. If you take enough time with it this could be your final finish. The more time you take with it the less you'll take with your polish.
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Old 05-27-17, 10:38 AM   #113
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Oh, i see. Clearly I missed that post.

Seems to me that Black Ice is most likely Norton's answer to Micromesh. IOW a super premium sandpaper. I haven't used it. FWIW Rockler stocks Micromesh. Frankly for something like this it isn't that critical, IMO. 3M, Norton, Mirka - they all seem about the same to me. Good tools do save time though.

I rarely sand higher than P1000 when polishing aluminum - if sanding is necessary. Unlike with lacquer, fine sanding scratches on aluminum will polish out easily once you get to the compound.
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Old 05-27-17, 11:56 PM   #114
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I always love to see this thread come around.
Then I never practice the lesson on seatposts, handlebars, crank arms, etc.

come back @KHAtful
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Old 05-28-17, 09:05 AM   #115
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Something I have used for polishing small parts is a 4-way nail buffer for doing finger nails. The one I use looks like a flat 2 blade propeller with Emery and 3 buffing pads. Their cheap and available in grocery or drug stores.

I just used one to polish the spindle on a Micrometer I was servicing and thought I would share.
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Old 05-29-17, 11:35 AM   #116
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I always love to see this thread come around.
Then I never practice the lesson on seatposts, handlebars, crank arms, etc.

come back @KHAtful
It's not too late to turn your hands metallic gray and make your parts shine. Get some sand paper and Mothers!
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Old 05-29-17, 11:40 AM   #117
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It's not too late to turn your hands metallic gray and make your parts shine. Get some sand paper and Mothers!

Next winter - summer has arrived in the PacificMoistWest - I have new tires to wear out first before worrying about polishing.
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