Suggestions for new wheel/gearing issues
#1
Vain, But Lacking Talent
Thread Starter
Suggestions for new wheel/gearing issues
Ok, so a spoke broke on my rear wheel on my way home. No big deal, just replace the spoke, right? Well, not really. The rim was already permanently tweeked and was not ever going to be true and when the one spoke did pop, the thing went so out of whack it was rubbing the frame.
My front wheel is also trying it's best to wobble. I trued it myself a couple of times and then had it trued by the shop and it nearly immediately goes off.
Basically, both of these were on my need to replace ASAP list. So this is just an excuse.
But now I have another issue. I'd rather just buy some wheels with new hubs, but this is where you C&V folks come in. My current rear is the old 126mm freewheel setup. As far as I can tell, my current gears will not jump onto a modern freehub body. It's the non-lockring type with the smallest cog threaded onto the body.
So, what do I do? Should I pick up a 8/9/10 speed cassette and take the index shifting out of my RD? Would I need a new RD or would my 87 era 105 RD be ok?
My front wheel is also trying it's best to wobble. I trued it myself a couple of times and then had it trued by the shop and it nearly immediately goes off.
Basically, both of these were on my need to replace ASAP list. So this is just an excuse.
But now I have another issue. I'd rather just buy some wheels with new hubs, but this is where you C&V folks come in. My current rear is the old 126mm freewheel setup. As far as I can tell, my current gears will not jump onto a modern freehub body. It's the non-lockring type with the smallest cog threaded onto the body.
So, what do I do? Should I pick up a 8/9/10 speed cassette and take the index shifting out of my RD? Would I need a new RD or would my 87 era 105 RD be ok?
#2
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Why not get new wheels with a freewheel and keep it simple. The 105 RD is good stuff.
#4
Vain, But Lacking Talent
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Yeah, if you can point me to these hew wheels, I'd be all about it.
Conversely, I did talk to my local shop and I could get a nice build on my old hubs with Mavic open pros for about 300 with build fees, tax, etc. I'm considering that...
Conversely, I did talk to my local shop and I could get a nice build on my old hubs with Mavic open pros for about 300 with build fees, tax, etc. I'm considering that...
#5
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#6
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But now I have another issue. I'd rather just buy some wheels with new hubs, but this is where you C&V folks come in. My current rear is the old 126mm freewheel setup. As far as I can tell, my current gears will not jump onto a modern freehub body. It's the non-lockring type with the smallest cog threaded onto the body.
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#7
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#8
Vain, But Lacking Talent
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I don't know what I'm talking about regarding the last cog being threaded on. I mean, I guess it is. But anyhow, it's all attached to a threaded freewheel, so no cassettes. And it's definitely 6-speed.
I think the build at the shop is probably my best option. It certainly means committing to the bar end shifters for quite some time. The bike is barely worth a couple of hundred bucks and I was thinking of converting to brifters down the road. But then again, I do love the current setup and how quiet the freewheel is rolling around campus.
I think the build at the shop is probably my best option. It certainly means committing to the bar end shifters for quite some time. The bike is barely worth a couple of hundred bucks and I was thinking of converting to brifters down the road. But then again, I do love the current setup and how quiet the freewheel is rolling around campus.
#9
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Maybe someone here can help me out, because I'm confused. I thought that if the last cog was threaded on, that pointed to Uniglide..... which is definitely a cassette.
If it is a freewheel, then your most cost effective solution would be finding replacement wheel set with a 6/7 speed freewheel type hub. You can probably find one fairly cheaply that will do the job, but if you can spend the bucks for the custom build it is hard to beat Open Pro's.
If you're going to upgrade down the line to a 10 speed setup with brifter's, then RobbieTune's suggestion would be the way to go - "New 8/9/10 Shimano, 7-sp cassette, and a spacer"
If it is a freewheel, then your most cost effective solution would be finding replacement wheel set with a 6/7 speed freewheel type hub. You can probably find one fairly cheaply that will do the job, but if you can spend the bucks for the custom build it is hard to beat Open Pro's.
If you're going to upgrade down the line to a 10 speed setup with brifter's, then RobbieTune's suggestion would be the way to go - "New 8/9/10 Shimano, 7-sp cassette, and a spacer"
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"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
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S. J. Perelman
#10
Vain, But Lacking Talent
Thread Starter
Ok, this is strange. It's definitely a uniglide, but it's 6 speed. I assume all the necessary spacers are there.
Hmmm, so who do you have for me, BBM?
Yeah, I've thought about upgrading it in the past, but when it comes down to it, 6 speeds are plenty for school and back. This needs to stay a "beater" bike. Bar end shifters are cool, right? Right? If I'm going to go full modern, I need a nicer frame to play with.
Hmmm, so who do you have for me, BBM?
Yeah, I've thought about upgrading it in the past, but when it comes down to it, 6 speeds are plenty for school and back. This needs to stay a "beater" bike. Bar end shifters are cool, right? Right? If I'm going to go full modern, I need a nicer frame to play with.
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Ok, this is strange. It's definitely a uniglide, but it's 6 speed. I assume all the necessary spacers are there.
Hmmm, so who do you have for me, BBM?
Yeah, I've thought about upgrading it in the past, but when it comes down to it, 6 speeds are plenty for school and back. This needs to stay a "beater" bike. Bar end shifters are cool, right? Right? If I'm going to go full modern, I need a nicer frame to play with.
Hmmm, so who do you have for me, BBM?
Yeah, I've thought about upgrading it in the past, but when it comes down to it, 6 speeds are plenty for school and back. This needs to stay a "beater" bike. Bar end shifters are cool, right? Right? If I'm going to go full modern, I need a nicer frame to play with.
I'd look at the Niagara Cycles site and see what they have. It might be that $75 will get you a new pair of wheels. No classic brands, but a pair of new wheels. If you're skilled at tensioning and truing new wheels, it would probably be a good idea to re-finish such a set of wheels.
#13
Vain, But Lacking Talent
Thread Starter
I did measure it to make triple sure last night. It's definitely 126mm. But now that I know it is this threaded cog uniglide business, my options are getting slimmer and slimmer. I might just have to go modern and pick up a new cassette. But now my question is what is the limit on my current rear derailleur? And do I just need to take out the index mechanism on my shifter to use friction shifting?
#14
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these may not be the greatest but for $100 w/tires https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1471
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#15
Vain, But Lacking Talent
Thread Starter
Dang, that is a good deal. Unfortunately, 700x25 tires just fit in my frame. I would think 700x24 wheels would not work out that well.
#16
Senior Member
If the shipping won't kill your budget, these nice looking wheels from harris would do the trick and look the part as well. You can still get 7 speed freewheels around too. All of the LBSes in my area offer wheelsets like this too, but the rims are more modern but still on 126mm rear hubs, so call around if you have any decent stores in your area, they may have something too.
#17
Vain, But Lacking Talent
Thread Starter
Ok, thanks all for the input. After some debating about how much I wanted to commit to the current groupset of the bike, I decided to have a wheel build on my old rear hub, which is a 105 still in great shape, and then keep the front wheel on my christmas list which will come with a new 105 hub. The current hub on my front wheel is not something I want to invest a wheel build into.
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