Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    27 inch to 700c wheel upgrade? vintage road bike wheelset freewheel to cassette

    Okay I hope to get my question answered to the highest knowledge or knowing.
    say i want to upgrade a vintage road bike wheelset to 700c. Freewheel has 6 cogs :/
    understanding I'll need a drop bolt for brakes so no need to tell me that. frame would be 126mm in diameter where the rear wheel goes and I will have to stretch it but being an aluminum bike I can't do that right????
    I want thicker rims. I know 27" are stronger with the 36 spokes they have but I just got tired of the rims and their too heavy. Mavic stickers have disintegrated so no point in showing off the vintage wheelet. If I can't upgrade freewheel to modern cassette meaning 27" to 700c wheelset. Can I still use the 36 spoke hub off the 27" rear wheel and isntall that on a 700c rim that has 36 spokes That way the only thing that Id have to do is tweak with the brakes and thats it and keep the old freewheel/hub? I wanted to also change the drive train to all shimano 105. current drive train on this puppy is a suntour 3000 on a relaigh technium. I'll post pics of my bike if i find my camera and if not ill just post some online photos that are identical to this situation.
    these are the rims i want to put on the old freewheel hub from the 27 inch wheel
    the rim is a 700c

    !B8SkL-w!mk~$(KGrHqZ,!iIEzNTltMbQBM2o8Ul!)g~~0_12[1].jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member Grishnak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    West Sussex UK
    My Bikes
    Steel Tourer,Recumbent SWB,Steel Road,Flying pigeon with SA 3speed,Raliegh Twentys,Raliegh U.S Cruiser.
    Posts
    245
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I did this but did`nt even need a drop bolt,lots of tyre choice now!

  3. #3
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    My Bikes
    Terraferma 650b, Mondonico SL and ELOS, Masi Gran Criterium, Trek 610, Breezer Liberty, Georgena Terry Classic
    Posts
    11,075
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by evilpulse8 View Post
    Okay I hope to get my question answered to the highest knowledge or knowing.
    say i want to upgrade a vintage road bike wheelset to 700c. Freewheel has 6 cogs :/
    understanding I'll need a drop bolt for brakes so no need to tell me that. frame would be 126mm in diameter where the rear wheel goes and I will have to stretch it but being an aluminum bike I can't do that right????
    I want thicker rims. I know 27" are stronger with the 36 spokes they have but I just got tired of the rims and their too heavy. Mavic stickers have disintegrated so no point in showing off the vintage wheelet. If I can't upgrade freewheel to modern cassette meaning 27" to 700c wheelset. Can I still use the 36 spoke hub off the 27" rear wheel and isntall that on a 700c rim that has 36 spokes That way the only thing that Id have to do is tweak with the brakes and thats it and keep the old freewheel/hub? I wanted to also change the drive train to all shimano 105. current drive train on this puppy is a suntour 3000 on a relaigh technium. I'll post pics of my bike if i find my camera and if not ill just post some online photos that are identical to this situation.
    these are the rims i want to put on the old freewheel hub from the 27 inch wheel
    the rim is a 700c

    !B8SkL-w!mk~$(KGrHqZ,!iIEzNTltMbQBM2o8Ul!)g~~0_12[1].jpg
    I assume your goal is lighter wheels. If your old wheels have steel rims (test them with a magnet - aluminum will have zero force on the magnet), you can get aluminum 27 inch rims from Sun in 13 mm and 18 mm widths. I THINK Velocity also has some. There's obviously more rim selection in 700c.

    Drop bolts - probably won't need these, or need new calipers, but it is a possibility. The issue is the radius of a 700c is 4 mm less than for a 27 inch rim. If you can re-position your brake shoes 4 mm downward in the existing brake calipers, you don't need a drop bolt or a new caliper.

    If you want to go to Shimano 105 hubs, I think you would need to buy a frame with 130 mm spacing. Cold setting aluminum is not a good idea, and I don't think you can reasonably shorten the 105 rear hub. But you can put the rim you plan, or any other 36 hole rim, on that old hub. Make sure you get the right spoke length.

    What kind of freewheel do you have? Your old hub should fit a Shimano 7-speed freewheel into the space of that 6 with no problem, and then the shifting quality should be 90% as good as with an indexing system, since the Shimano tooth design is so good at grabbing the chain as you shift.

  4. #4
    Senior Member TugaDude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,185
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    +1 on possibly not needing the drop bolts. You might get lucky. You can get new hubs that accept older freewheels and the spacing can be adjusted to 126 if that is what you have. Also, spreading from 126 to 130 does NOT necessarily mean you have to coldset. There is a fair amount of flex in most rear triangles. Also, the rear triangle of the Technium is steel, not aluminum. That still doesn't mean that it can be spread necessarily, just wanted to point it out. Finally, keep in mind that if you want to use the existing hubs and build new wheels around them, it will probably cost you a bunch and you still have old hubs. Talk to Velomine, they have a set of 700c wheels that will accept a freewheel, not sure of spacing, but they are great guys and will work with you.

  5. #5
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Camp Hill, PA
    My Bikes
    Too many to list here check my signature.
    Posts
    20,087
    Mentioned
    30 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Road Fan the OPs wheels are Alloy he said they have Mavic, well had decals. I think his goal is more along the lines of just getting the 105 on his bike.

    OP; IIRC a Technium havd a steel rear triangle so I believe it could be spread but finding someone to do it may be tricky.

    do your friends have bikes? if one has 700 wheels pop one in your frame and see if the brakes will work, getting new longer reach brakes may be easier and cheaper than looking for dropbolts unless you use the homemade route.

    in theroy you could have your hub rebuilt into a new rim b ut I am sure there is a prebuilt one out there to fill your needs.

    are you looking at STI style shifting or DT shifters?
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  6. #6
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    My Bikes
    Terraferma 650b, Mondonico SL and ELOS, Masi Gran Criterium, Trek 610, Breezer Liberty, Georgena Terry Classic
    Posts
    11,075
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Drop bolts - the only use for them is to relocate a brake that is too short. Last I looked, drop bolts were really hard to find, and longer calipers were not.

    If the rear end is steel, I'd cold set it and align the dropouts for the wider hubs - the wider hubs are a win all-around if you are going to go index. It's not guaranteed that you will break axles or wear out bearings, but it's really cheaper to have to frame mod done right than to replace hubs or buy new axle assemblies. Not to mention eliminating the hassle of muscling the wheel in each time.

    The hub re-use will be made much cheaper if all he has to buy is a new rim. If the old spokes are not scratched badly and are the correct length for the new rim, there's no reason not to re-use them. Whether that's cheaper than a modern low-cost factory wheel is a question. Usually those need to be retensioned and cold set before they have the durability a good wheel should deliver. At my local shops, add $30 to $50 per wheel.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    My Bikes
    Terraferma 650b, Mondonico SL and ELOS, Masi Gran Criterium, Trek 610, Breezer Liberty, Georgena Terry Classic
    Posts
    11,075
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    Road Fan the OPs wheels are Alloy he said they have Mavic, well had decals. I think his goal is more along the lines of just getting the 105 on his bike.

    OP; IIRC a Technium havd a steel rear triangle so I believe it could be spread but finding someone to do it may be tricky.

    do your friends have bikes? if one has 700 wheels pop one in your frame and see if the brakes will work, getting new longer reach brakes may be easier and cheaper than looking for dropbolts unless you use the homemade route.

    in theroy you could have your hub rebuilt into a new rim b ut I am sure there is a prebuilt one out there to fill your needs.

    are you looking at STI style shifting or DT shifters?
    Ok, score yourself a point, you caught me not having read it all before replying, and I believed the OP when he suggested the frame was Al. But he did say the rims are too heavy. Practically, if he wants light rims he'll need to look for 700c, and then probably not the low $ rims that are on factory wheels. And are the low cost hubs servicable? using loose balls or numbered industrial bearings? His old hubs very likely can be fully rebuilt, and probably use threaded rod-style axles. One way cost is being reduced in cheap hubs is to make more complex axles (powdered metal or CNC processes can be really low$$) that are strictly proprietary design-wise, and hence less servicable at the LBS level.

    Is refurbishing an old bike with no eye to conserving original or at least period parts C&V, or just bike repair?

  8. #8
    Senior Member TugaDude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,185
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I went to Velomine's website and found Sun M13 rims with 700c size and nice hubs spaced to 126mm. They are cheap and Velomine checks them for tension and true before shipping them. Can't go wrong if that is the direction you choose.

  9. #9
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
    Ok, score yourself a point, you caught me not having read it all before replying, and I believed the OP when he suggested the frame was Al. But he did say the rims are too heavy. Practically, if he wants light rims he'll need to look for 700c, and then probably not the low $ rims that are on factory wheels. And are the low cost hubs servicable? using loose balls or numbered industrial bearings? His old hubs very likely can be fully rebuilt, and probably use threaded rod-style axles. One way cost is being reduced in cheap hubs is to make more complex axles (powdered metal or CNC processes can be really low$$) that are strictly proprietary design-wise, and hence less servicable at the LBS level.

    Is refurbishing an old bike with no eye to conserving original or at least period parts C&V, or just bike repair?
    Yes I'm wanting to conserve it's vintage look. The Axels are actually quick release, not those fat threaded axels.
    I'm just in the look for 38mm rims which r 700c, to ride with good quality tires. As far as the sti upgrade I had in mind, I don't think I would go that way and put them on anymore, what will I do with the dt shifters? Take them off or leve them there tht way water or rust doesn't find it's way into the tube??
    If I can get a 700c wheelset tht has a hub the same
    e width as vintage bikes then I'd appreciate links plz.
    If not I'll go for a Axel rebuild or a new better one tht uses freewheel.

  10. #10
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I am looking towards going to the lighter side, the wheels r steel. I can't seem to find 700c wheelsets with the old one twenty six mm size. Only question I'm left to ask, I will need custom sized spokes or or will the circular width of my old hubs will be the same as the ones made today????

  11. #11
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    Road Fan the OPs wheels are Alloy he said they have Mavic, well had decals. I think his goal is more along the lines of just getting the 105 on his bike.

    OP; IIRC a Technium havd a steel rear triangle so I believe it could be spread but finding someone to do it may be tricky.

    do your friends have bikes? if one has 700 wheels pop one in your frame and see if the brakes will work, getting new longer reach brakes may be easier and cheaper than looking for dropbolts unless you use the homemade route.

    in theroy you could have your hub rebuilt into a new rim b ut I am sure there is a prebuilt one out there to fill your needs.

    are you looking at STI style shifting or DT shifters?
    Yeah putting the shimanos on r what I had in mind. They r brake lever shifters not down tube. What would I do with the dt shifters already on the frame????
    As far as I've seen all I see r plain thin rims, I'm looking for 38mm or near there nd actually having 700c wheels. 27" tires don't offer many options or quality.

  12. #12
    Senior Member TugaDude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    1,185
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    velomine.com Look under road bike wheelsets. They have Sun M13 126mm hubs that accept freewheels. Photos of wheels are there.

  13. #13
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
    Ok, score yourself a point, you caught me not having read it all before replying, and I believed the OP when he suggested the frame was Al. But he did say the rims are too heavy. Practically, if he wants light rims he'll need to look for 700c, and then probably not the low $ rims that are on factory wheels. And are the low cost hubs servicable? using loose balls or numbered industrial bearings? His old hubs very likely can be fully rebuilt, and probably use threaded rod-style axles. One way cost is being reduced in cheap hubs is to make more complex axles (powdered metal or CNC processes can be really low$$) that are strictly proprietary design-wise, and hence less servicable at the LBS level.

    Is refurbishing an old bike with no eye to conserving original or at least period parts C&V, or just bike repair?
    Yeah definately not looking for factory 700 wheels, atleast 38 aero profile style. As far as the old hub goes, it's pretty slick snd has lots of spin
    i tried jamming a 700c wheel in the but yeah, it's a big difference in size. I've placed magnets on the back triangle nd he conclusion came out actually being alum. It's obviously a 90 model if not 89. The Axel is a quick realease, thiner than the entirely threaded axels nd yeah it does has loose balls, is it posible to change tht to regular bearings leaving the hub inside spacious nd lighter?

  14. #14
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    Road Fan the OPs wheels are Alloy he said they have Mavic, well had decals. I think his goal is more along the lines of just getting the 105 on his bike.

    OP; IIRC a Technium havd a steel rear triangle so I believe it could be spread but finding someone to do it may be tricky.

    do your friends have bikes? if one has 700 wheels pop one in your frame and see if the brakes will work, getting new longer reach brakes may be easier and cheaper than looking for dropbolts unless you use the homemade route.

    in theroy you could have your hub rebuilt into a new rim b ut I am sure there is a prebuilt one out there to fill your needs.

    are you looking at STI style shifting or DT shifters?
    Yeah sti style shifting, the bike already has dt shifters, not very convenient when wanting to shift gear at the last second before going up a steep hill while tht way I'm still going fast.
    yeah I tried to mount my zero lite 700c wheels, only the front wheel fits nd it's a big difference in the rear wheel, when I try to stretch the frame with my hands the frame feels like it's going to break.

  15. #15
    Senior Member GrayJay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    EagleRiver AK
    Posts
    1,225
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    A 1990 technium rear triangle is definitly steel, not alu. Perhaps you have a later all-aluminum welded (not bonded) frame?

    I had a 1996 technium 480 that I changed to 700c, there was sufficient adjustment on the stock dia-comp brakes to handle the smaller 700c rims no problem.

  16. #16
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
    Drop bolts - the only use for them is to relocate a brake that is too short. Last I looked, drop bolts were really hard to find, and longer calipers were not.

    If the rear end is steel, I'd cold set it and align the dropouts for the wider hubs - the wider hubs are a win all-around if you are going to go index. It's not guaranteed that you will break axles or wear out bearings, but it's really cheaper to have to frame mod done right than to replace hubs or buy new axle assemblies. Not to mention eliminating the hassle of muscling the wheel in each time.

    The hub re-use will be made much cheaper if all he has to buy is a new rim. If the old spokes are not scratched badly and are the correct length for the new rim, there's no reason not to re-use them. Whether that's cheaper than a modern low-cost factory wheel is a question. Usually those need to be retensioned and cold set before they have the durability a good wheel should deliver. At my local shops, add $30 to $50 per wheel.
    The hubs r pretty good in my opinion, no point in not re using them if I end up not upgrade to modern hub
    I'm not sure if the spoke length will be correct nd I don't have any spokes laying around to use nd I don't want to untrue a perfect 700 wheel

  17. #17
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by GrayJay View Post
    A 1990 technium rear triangle is definitly steel, not alu. Perhaps you have a later all-aluminum welded (not bonded) frame?

    I had a 1996 technium 480 that I changed to 700c, there was sufficient adjustment on the stock dia-comp brakes to handle the smaller 700c rims no problem.
    Yeah it's all welded, not bonded with any soldered clamps or lugs whatever their called
    well the brake issue I guess isn't an issue, the brakes did reach a 700 rim right on the money
    r you using an old hub on a 700c rim or modern hub nd cassette??????
    Rear 9 speed 700c wheel won't budge in, I mangaed a little but the frame with it's force shot the wheel right off

  18. #18
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    My Bikes
    Terraferma 650b, Mondonico SL and ELOS, Masi Gran Criterium, Trek 610, Breezer Liberty, Georgena Terry Classic
    Posts
    11,075
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by evilpulse8 View Post
    Yeah it's all welded, not bonded with any soldered clamps or lugs whatever their called
    well the brake issue I guess isn't an issue, the brakes did reach a 700 rim right on the money
    r you using an old hub on a 700c rim or modern hub nd cassette??????
    Rear 9 speed 700c wheel won't budge in, I mangaed a little but the frame with it's force shot the wheel right off
    If it's aluminum, you can't to my knowledge cold set it. You have to stay with the 126 mm hub width. If your old hubs are nice and you can use a 7-speed freewheel, keep those hubs. You can replace grease and bearing balls 'til the cows come home, but you can't redesign the hub and modify the hub to take standard industrial bearings. It's not clear to me that cup/ball/cone bearings don't have better friction characteristics, anyway.

    You also can't use a cassette on that hub, only a freewheel (assuming what it already has is a freewheel). There really shouldn't be any performance difference between the two systems - one is not faster than the other.

    As we said before, there's no problem in changing out an old rim for a modern one. The required spokes might be different length, but they should be off the shelf parts. We or some other people with experience in wheel building should help you find out what the correct lengths are. You probably need three sizes; one for the front and two for the rear. You can re-use your old spokes if the effective rim diameter (ERD) of the new rims is the same as the ERD of the old rims.

  19. #19
    Senior Member evilpulse8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    City of Industry, California
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tarmac E5 S-works, Specialized Tarmac Comp
    Posts
    65
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
    If it's aluminum, you can't to my knowledge cold set it. You have to stay with the 126 mm hub width. If your old hubs are nice and you can use a 7-speed freewheel, keep those hubs. You can replace grease and bearing balls 'til the cows come home, but you can't redesign the hub and modify the hub to take standard industrial bearings. It's not clear to me that cup/ball/cone bearings don't have better friction characteristics, anyway.

    You also can't use a cassette on that hub, only a freewheel (assuming what it already has is a freewheel). There really shouldn't be any performance difference between the two systems - one is not faster than the other.

    As we said before, there's no problem in changing out an old rim for a modern one. The required spokes might be different length, but they should be off the shelf parts. We or some other people with experience in wheel building should help you find out what the correct lengths are. You probably need three sizes; one for the front and two for the rear. You can re-use your old spokes if the effective rim diameter (ERD) of the new rims is the same as the ERD of the old rims.
    The spokes definately must go, where can I find colored spokes, other than on eBay, white spokes. Yeah I'll definately keep the old hub nd use tht, it's free of rust, and has always been slimed with grease to prevent corosion. It's just a bike I've been putting lots of interest in. I never really started using it up until last month for it's like new condition although I know it's not worth anything but still looks good. Somehow I have no knowledge with vintage road bikes thts how it sparked my curiosity nd I have a handful of tires tht i have in my garage nd really, 27" tires these days don't offer much. See them as just commuting nd such. So I'm going to disassemble the wheels tonight nd head to my local shop to find the right spokes to save me time from going online nd purchasing there. Have the 38mm velocity machined sidewallrims waiting. I'll keep you guys posted on the results nd I'll go ahead nd take pictures see if anything else needs to be said. So I'm just going to use the shimanos one hundred fives on my fp2 frame instead of wasting money on a dura ace set. Nd clearly I don't see why I was thinking of putting tht on this relic of a bike. But surely the 27" rims r coming off ready for some 700s.
    Your right not much difference in cassttes nd freewheel but the proble is if you break a tooth or bend one on the freewheel, no choice but to buy a new set nd with newer ones I just replace a cog

  20. #20
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    My Bikes
    Terraferma 650b, Mondonico SL and ELOS, Masi Gran Criterium, Trek 610, Breezer Liberty, Georgena Terry Classic
    Posts
    11,075
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok, you really want colored spokes?

    Yes, broken teeth require replacing the whole freewheel but first, thought i'm not a pro wrench I've never seen a tooth break on a steel freewheel, and second, the whole freewheel new made by Shimano is about $20, at least now. Road riding rarely results in impacts to the freewheel teeth.

    The bike itself is not "worth nothing." I don't know what it is worth, but decent bikes or frames that work, are in good visual condition, and are complete can be sold. I doubt it's a sought-after collectible, but I don't really know. But a good working bike can be sold.

    Have fun!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •