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Old 02-01-11, 05:43 PM   #1
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How to remove Stronglight crank?

I have a Stronglight crank. I believe it's a model 99.

I need to get this crank off the BB so I can change out the BB spindle.

So I purchased a Stein 23.3 mm Stronglight crank puller from Bike Parts Etc. I assumed this was the correct puller.

However, when I went to screw in the new puller (after of course retracting the inner bolt), I get one revolution and the puller will not move any further by hand. I checked the threads on the crank. The outer threads look a little smushed, but I am easily able to hand-thread the dust caps...

Should I risk tightening it with a wrench -- risking the remaining good threads?

Or am I even using the correct size puller here?

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Old 02-01-11, 05:46 PM   #2
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Ithink those cranks came ina 23 and a 23.5 but better wait for the real experts
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Old 02-01-11, 05:48 PM   #3
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Yup, the Stronglight 99 in its later version used a standard crank puller. Sounds like that's what you have.

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Old 02-01-11, 05:55 PM   #4
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No the standard 22mm (for modern cranks) doesn't fit at all... too small. This is a crank from the early 1970s, I believe. Could it possibly need a TA puller (23mm)??

Like one side of this one http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=VR-393
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Old 02-01-11, 06:04 PM   #5
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First, you can compare the Stein tool to the dust cap. The threads should match, the size should also be pretty close. You may want to clean up the crank threads and use some grease.
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Old 02-01-11, 06:12 PM   #6
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No the standard 22mm (for modern cranks) doesn't fit at all... too small. This is a crank from the early 1970s, I believe. Could it possibly need a TA puller (23mm)??

Like one side of this one http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=VR-393
Hmm, there was just another thread about someone discovering his 49D crankset used a TA-sized puller:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ller-than-23.3

That's weird.

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Old 02-01-11, 06:25 PM   #7
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Hmm, there was just another thread about someone discovering his 49D crankset used a TA-sized puller:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ller-than-23.3

That's weird.

Neal
Thanks. Seems to describe the problem exactly. That's a co-incidence too; posted at nearly the same time.
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Old 02-01-11, 06:41 PM   #8
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Is the crankset in question the one pictured in the original post? That's a Stronglight 93, not a 99. It does take the 23.3 puller. You may have to use a wrench to thread it in--some are pullers are tighter than others. Grease the threads and go slowly and carefully, backing it out from time to time as if you're using a tap.
That should work. Unless, of course, there's something I don't understand here--that's always a possibility.
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Old 02-01-11, 06:45 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by jonwvara View Post
You may have to use a wrench to thread it in--some are pullers are tighter than others. Grease the threads and go slowly and carefully, backing it out from time to time as if you're using a tap.
That should work. Unless, of course, there's something I don't understand here--that's always a possibility.
+1

I've only gotten the Stein 23.35 puller in about one turn before having to put a wrench on both Stonglight 93s I've pulled with it. I would do as jonwvara explains using care and caution.
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Old 02-01-11, 06:50 PM   #10
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I think the came in a 23.15 and a 23.35, as well as 'normal'.

Just one more reason to avoid the French.
HA! So true..............
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Old 02-01-11, 07:01 PM   #11
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+1

I've only gotten the Stein 23.35 puller in about one turn before having to put a wrench on both Stonglight 93s I've pulled with it. I would do as jonwvara explains using care and caution.
I dunno, guys...it's always a crapshoot to try to offer advice without having the tool and crank in hand, but I recently used my trusted old Stronglight (not JA Stein's version of it) tool to pull off the SL93 cranks on another CVer's "mystery Jeunet" frame...did it just before Xmas in a McDonald's parking lot off the freeway. My puller threaded in by hand and I just snugged it up with the socket end of it for good measure: did NOT need a wrench to screw it in. Cranks came off clean and easy...well, reasonably easy. I would say that was pretty typical of every SL crank I've pulled with this tool, with the only exception being the oddball 49D which I persist in believing was a 23mm. Do as you think best...if you can get the Stein tool to screw on completely by using grease and coaxing, then that's better than assuming it uses a 23mm TA puller and stripping something.

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Old 02-01-11, 07:11 PM   #12
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I think the came in a 23.15 and a 23.35, as well as 'normal'.

Just one more reason to avoid the French.
^ I learned that for a Stronglight, 23.15 is the extractor thread and 23.35 the crank thread. (Thanks again Kurt!)

Makes sense to me that the extractor should not be on-size with the crank - or you'd never get it started.
(The French thought of everything - everyone else followed! )
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Old 02-01-11, 07:26 PM   #13
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^I read that, and it sounds so plausible and it sure would be a tidy explaination for the 2 sizes that are bandied about referring to Stronglight crank threading... So, I want to believe, but I need corroboration: can any machinist or tool-and-die guys out there confirm what the diameter difference between male and female metric threaded parts is? 0.2mm?
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Old 02-01-11, 07:33 PM   #14
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I dunno, guys...it's always a crapshoot to try to offer advice without having the tool and crank in hand, but I recently used my trusted old Stronglight (not JA Stein's version of it) tool to pull off the SL99 cranks on another CVer's "mystery Jeunet" frame...did it just before Xmas in a McDonald's parking lot off the freeway. My puller threaded in by hand and I just snugged it up with the socket end of it for good measure: did NOT need a wrench to screw it in. Cranks came off clean and easy...well, reasonably easy. I would say that was pretty typical of every SL crank I've pulled with this tool, with the only exception being the oddball 49D which I persist in believing was a 23mm. Do as you think best...if you can get the Stein tool to screw on completely by using grease and coaxing, then that's better than assuming it uses a 23mm TA puller and stripping something.
This other C&V'er was me. By the way, thanks a ton and I owe you lunch still.

I should mention that when you pulled off those cranks, they had only been on the bike for about six months. If the cranks on the OP's bike have never been off, they're going to require a heck of a lot more force than mine did. Don't you think? I can't offer any advice because I'm the guy that already stripped a Stronglight crank arm and I'd hate to have anyone else experience that.

This is tough.

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Old 02-01-11, 07:41 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jonwvara View Post
Is the crankset in question the one pictured in the original post? That's a Stronglight 93, not a 99. It does take the 23.3 puller. You may have to use a wrench to thread it in--some are pullers are tighter than others. Grease the threads and go slowly and carefully, backing it out from time to time as if you're using a tap.
That should work. Unless, of course, there's something I don't understand here--that's always a possibility.

i have 2 sets of stronglight 93 cranks and neither look like the one pictured.

i'm 99% sure the pictured cranks are stronglight 99, as originally mentioned.

2 very different looking cranks.

SL 93 (which takes a 23.35mm puller)

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.as...=115&AbsPos=18

SL 99 (which takes a 23.35mm puller, unless it's the later model which takes a "standard" 22mm)

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.as...=115&AbsPos=20
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Old 02-01-11, 07:45 PM   #16
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Is the crankset in question the one pictured in the original post? That's a Stronglight 93, not a 99.
Sorry, Jon, but that one pictured is definitely a Stronglight 99 w/ 86bcd (as compared to 122bcd for the mod. 93).

Here's a Mod. 93:


And a Mod. 99:


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Old 02-01-11, 07:54 PM   #17
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..... If the cranks on the OP's bike have never been off, they're going to require a heck of a lot more force ....
Not necessarily.
When I have an alloy part wrapping around a steel part, and it seems unyielding, I tend to use my
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Old 02-01-11, 08:01 PM   #18
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Yes, if you also look at this web site, you get to see most of the major Stronglight models http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk...line-comp.html

PS... still not sure what to do. Cleans and grease the threads and apply some force while crossing fingers... But you never do that with a modern puller. If it doesn't thread easily, something is cross-threaded.
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Old 02-01-11, 08:19 PM   #19
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Worked. The crank came off. Greased the threads and used a long wrench to screw it in. Still very tight No apparent damage to the crank or puller threads and the dust caps can still be screwed in.

Thanks for the help...
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Old 02-01-11, 08:24 PM   #20
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Told ya. I was a little nervous my first time too.
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Old 02-01-11, 08:32 PM   #21
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Sorry, Jon, but that one pictured is definitely a Stronglight 99
Dammit! This is eroding my aura of infallibility!
Okay, I stand corrected. In my innocence, I didn't even know that there was an "old" version of the 99--I just glanced at the picture, saw the fluted crankarm, and figured it was a 93. Oops. Looking at it again, it's obvious that the BCD is 86, not 122. My bad. Glad the crank did come off, though.
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Old 02-01-11, 08:36 PM   #22
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Dammit! This is eroding my aura of infallibility!
Okay, I stand corrected. In my innocence, I didn't even know that there was an "old" version of the 99--I just glanced at the picture, saw the fluted crankarm, and figured it was a 93. Oops. Looking at it again, it's obvious that the BCD is 86, not 122. My bad. Glad the crank did come off, though.
Ah, Jon, just blame it on the prescription medication. Or maybe it's the over-the-counter diet supplement?

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Old 02-02-11, 01:40 AM   #23
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Worked. The crank came off. Greased the threads and used a long wrench to screw it in. Still very tight No apparent damage to the crank or puller threads and the dust caps can still be screwed in.

Thanks for the help...
The first time my stien 23.35 went into a crank it was a tight fit, but now its not a problem.
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Old 02-02-11, 08:39 AM   #24
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The difference between 23.15 and 23.35 (or 0.2mm) is in the diameter that your measuring. If you measure the internal diameter of the threads (the crank), you'll get 23.15 mm. (The puller's minor diameter). When you measure the OD of the external threads (the puller), you'll get 23.35mm, or the major diameter of the puller.

So they are the "same" measurement, but the major diameter of one thread = minor diameter of the other, and vice-versa.

Check this the next time you have a BB open. A standard English BB (1.37" or 34.8mm) will measure ~34.6mm inside with your calipers.

And just FYI, there is a[listed as] 23.0mm Stronglight puller listed on eBay right now.
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Old 02-02-11, 08:59 AM   #25
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Yup, the Stronglight 99 in its later version used a standard crank puller. Sounds like that's what you have.

Neal
The OP's crank is the old version, using the 23.35mm puller.

The new version arms are cast rather than forged, have recesses cast into the spider, and are not finished as nicely.
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