Road bike with MTB wheels
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Road bike with MTB wheels
I have an old 27" wheel frame and a spare set of MTB wheels - what brakes can I put on the frame that will work, if any? It currently has centerpulls. Any thoughts?
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you need to check the spacing of the frame vs. the spacing of the hubs.... road and mountain is typically different.
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#3
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Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you'll need a caliper that has a reach ~35mm greater than the point at which your pads sit with 27" wheels. It's possible some the Dia Compes with 80mm reach will work, but they kinda suck. You already have the wheels, so slap 'em on and take a measurement.
Don't forget to consider the rear spacing. I'd suspect a frame that came with 27" wheels will have rear spacing no greater than 126mm. Many mountain bike hubs are 135mm, right?
Don't forget to consider the rear spacing. I'd suspect a frame that came with 27" wheels will have rear spacing no greater than 126mm. Many mountain bike hubs are 135mm, right?
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I'm not too worried about spacing the frame.
Are there any super long centerpulls?
Are there any super long centerpulls?
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Well road frames arent as wide as mountain frames so you will have to pull the frame open and potentially damage the frame bending it open
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Why not add some studs for canti's?
Mmmmm, might want to consider your chainline too if your going for 126 to 135.
Mmmmm, might want to consider your chainline too if your going for 126 to 135.
#8
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How about tire clearance between the chainstays and also at the fork. I don't think I would make this conversion. If I can't make a 'Frankenbike' without welding or brazing, I drop the project.
#10
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I know a guy who has MTB wheels installed on a road frame. He has side pull brakes that he said were made for a beach cruiser. No other info than that.
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I did this. I went with hub brakes (Sturmey Archer IGH with drum brake rear, dyno-drum front) and 6" cranks. Nice bike. I looked into the option of caliper brakes and found nothing good enough. The longer the brake arms, the less leverage you have, and the more the arms can flex; not a good combination.
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Wow. Lots of great, yet incredibly expensive ideas. Can nobody on this forum read subtext?
The answer to this question is actually incredibly simple most of the time: crappy long reach sidepulls. Sure, they don't work worth a goddamn, but you will come to a stop. eventually.
where to find these kind of brakes, you ask? Tons of really S*itty older (90's) chinese made, wallmart grade bikes basically came stock with the setup you are attempting to kludge. your local bike co-op probably has a bunch. I have done the opposite of this, so I am pretty sure my logic is sound. My Dump find "Columbia" brand dept. store tandem, which came with crappy steel 26" wheels and chang star long reach caliper brakes, made the move to 27" wheels and short reach brakes. Obviously this was necessary because tandem+ worst brakes known to man is not a good idea. It is less of an issue when you are not double the weight and putting someone else's life at risk.
The answer to this question is actually incredibly simple most of the time: crappy long reach sidepulls. Sure, they don't work worth a goddamn, but you will come to a stop. eventually.
where to find these kind of brakes, you ask? Tons of really S*itty older (90's) chinese made, wallmart grade bikes basically came stock with the setup you are attempting to kludge. your local bike co-op probably has a bunch. I have done the opposite of this, so I am pretty sure my logic is sound. My Dump find "Columbia" brand dept. store tandem, which came with crappy steel 26" wheels and chang star long reach caliper brakes, made the move to 27" wheels and short reach brakes. Obviously this was necessary because tandem+ worst brakes known to man is not a good idea. It is less of an issue when you are not double the weight and putting someone else's life at risk.
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They don't always work that bad, I have them on a Varsity with 26" wheels, and they do a decent job. Somehow I got a pair to stop very well on this one Huffy, but the length combined with the unreinforced design and the sudden jolt of stopping a wheel made me wonder how long they would last before they bend or break. The worst brake award goes to the Cantilever brakes that came on my friends Magna. Despite my best efforts to get them working, you might as well have just ditched the bike whenever you needed to stop.
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You might be able to use the old brakes by dropping them down with a suitable piece of metal or maybe some kind of hardware store bracket. Something that could be bolted to the brake mounts and drilled for a lower mount hole. The rear could maybe be braced across the stays, not sure about the front.
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I think the main problem, as has been noted above, is bb height. 165mm crankset will help there, but maybe an expensive option.
Tektro 800a brakes are long reach, and have good power, and the price is right.
Often MB rear wheels are wide because of spacers on the axle, ditch that and your spacing problem is gone.
Frankenbikes are frankenbikes, no dishonor in trying to make the wheels go round.
Tektro 800a brakes are long reach, and have good power, and the price is right.
Often MB rear wheels are wide because of spacers on the axle, ditch that and your spacing problem is gone.
Frankenbikes are frankenbikes, no dishonor in trying to make the wheels go round.
#18
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650b [584 + bigger tire] is a closer to 27"[630]... wheel 26"[559]
is going to bring the BB awfully close to the ground.
Like an inch and 3/8 lower.
why not just do a 700c conversion,?
thats only 3mm smaller diameter for the brake to grab the rim.
is going to bring the BB awfully close to the ground.
Like an inch and 3/8 lower.
why not just do a 700c conversion,?
thats only 3mm smaller diameter for the brake to grab the rim.
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