scale

so i have my old bianchi sport sx and i have the diacompe x5000 or alpha 5000 calipers and levers....

Im thinking about replacing the levers when i redo the bar tape this spring. THe hoods on them are a bit weird for my hands and tend to twist (the rubber). I find myself having to pull them back into place once and a while.

Either way they have seen better days and would like to get a better set of levers.

WHat is the rule on brake levers and brake groups?

Can you mix and match areo lever brands with calipers? Is the pull typically the same? Id like to upgrade my calipers someday but really dont see the need to do so right now.

Id like to get levers that are simular to these and have hoods that are easy to find when i need them.
WHat are my options as far as a decent upgrade and what are the rules of mixing sets? Id like to stick with somthing of same era (mid to late 80s) unless you can sway me to something much newer for good reason.

Thoughts?


Thanks!

Road Fan

There is no rule. It is possible to get a handle that doesn't feel right or squeeze right with your calipers, but there's no rule-breaking involved.

Unless someone actually knows which levers have geometries that match those of your originals ... Otherwise I think it's just trial and error.

scale

thanks...

here are the levers im thinking about upgrading. They have that weird half hood thing going on.

Lenton58 

I think the only rule is money — although as Road Fan understands, YMMV ... although IMO not by very much. One of my bikes had a damaged brake, and I could not find a vintage replacement. So, I bought new production just to get it on the road. Now the bike has a Sugino 75 on the rear, Shimano Tiagra on the front, and Shimano BR-400 levers that have an integral return spring. All the cable and sheathing is a Dura Ace set. Some these parts are 25 years apart in age! But, it all works very well, although I have noticed that the Sugino locks up faster. You have a matched set of calipers, so no sweat.

Apart from the aesthetic, probably the biggest factor in mixing brake components is the same as in any brake setup — cable, sheathing and routing. For the little extra, I think that Teflon lined sheathing is an excellent thing. Most cable these days is stainless, is it not? And cable routing is a sort of practiced art. Get this stuff right and everything should be OK.

Chombi

No real rules. That's why many buy new Tekros for their C&V bikes. You can mix and match many different brands unless there's some unusal need for more leverage than "normally" found on most calipers or more cable take up.

Chombi

RobbieTunes

+1 with Lenton and Chombi. I've put dual-pivot Tektros and a couple of C&V bikes, and even a nashbar set on one (pad inserts had to go, though, made of stone rubber).

I'll mix them on the bike, too, until I find the ones I need to match. Adjustment is key to making sure they grab about the same.

bobbycorno

Kinda like the fight scene in "Butch Cassidy" - there are no rules.

SP
Bend, OR

tomio

What they said.

However, there was one issue about using 600 Tricolor levers with older shimano calipers. Something about the return spring making the brakes "mushy." Not sure though.

The only thing I really worry about is having a quick release somewhere. Either on the lever or the calipers. Hardly an issue though.

WNG

Something looks odd about that lever hood in the photo. That looks like a Dia Compe, Aero GC lever. There should be a full coverage hood over it.
As others have stated, no real issues mixing levers and calipers. Only caveat is that companies offering aftermarket levers have released a model specifically for linear pull brakes (V-brakes). You can't use those levers with conventional calipers or cantilevers.
I recommend a pair of Tektro levers. For the price of a set of replacement hoods, you get an entire aero lever set, with great ergonomics, quick release button, nice feel, and build quality. Some don't prefer their look on a C&V bike, if you don't mind, it's an excellent value.

To echo advice on cables from Lenton and Chombi.....
Make sure to use high quality cable and housing. Makes a significant difference in feel and performance. The cheap stuff compresses and the cable stretches. A die-drawn cable and 5mm housing are the bare minimum standard one should go with.

scale

im lookiing at my levers now. Maybe these are the wrong hoods..who knows...

THey fit really tight where they are sitting and appear to go here but i thought it was odd that the hood didnt make it up over the horn portion of the lever.

IM really looking at some tektro r200a levers now that they have been mentioned.

Not sure if my LBS carries them or not but ill have to swing up there and have a look. IF they dont have them it appears they can be had online for around 20 bucks.

Lenton58 

tomio: Respectfully, I don't think that this is an issue. The spring just works to retrieve or retract the cable through the sheathing instead of relying only on the brake spring to push it. If anything, it should make for a more solid or sensitive feel in the lever.

tomio

It was this thread that mentioned it. My mistake, it talks about stiffness rather tahn mushiness.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ers-Circa-1985

Bianchigirll 

great looking Bianchi!! I just put C-Rec on mine last week. my old DiaCompe ones were shot.

how is the shifting are you still using the A-5000 kit?

scale

yup...same frame THis is the one i ended up with after my almost 1 year of searching. I love it! Funny that we have the same color scheme. Ive got the same alpha brakes and they are fine.....its just the levers that are bugging me. THose hoods are weird....

Yes...the original a-5000 downtube shifters and group are still going strong. It shifts pretty darn good. IM impressed with it thus far.

I did upgrade the wheels from the araya/sansin a-5000 hubs. I ended up with a set of v-campy strada hardox with suntour suberbe hubs. THey are pretty slick!

I see we have the same brown chainrings. I thought that might have been something the previous owner put on it for some strange reason. Nope....looks like it was the option back then. I always thought that was weird.

can you confirm the goofy levers / non full hood? is that normal? Someone above pointed out that this didnt look right.

dbakl

The Japanese hate the Italians and the French hate everyone!

Lenton58 

tomio: Hmmm ... interesting.

Bianchigirll:Can you tell us what happened to them? How were they shot? What were the symptoms ... for example metal fatigue? The reason I ask is I have a set of BR 101's still in the box. They look really good. How old were your Compe's. Lot of miles?

scale

im still searching for a set of tektros. From what i have read the r100a and r200a have hoods that move alot and are not very stationary. THis is the main problem with the dia compe levers i currently have. i havent found a set of tektros to check them out but id rather not have to deal with this on any new levers i aquire.

Bianchigirll 

the levers were just tired, they has alot of play in the lever pivots, the holes just seemed to be worn and loose. I used those levers for 'cross and since I kept tfalling that was not good for them either. miles? oh yes I don't know how many miles I had on that poor bike. I rode the stuffing out of it the first year, and even after I bought my Supper Leggera I still commuted on this most of the time. I bet before I started upgrading to Campi that bike had 3K atleast on it.

Scale yes the brown chainwheels were stock. reading the description in the catalog it seems they were done like that to match the rims.

scale

weird..i never thought of the orginal rims as being brown but i guess they kind of are. They are not nearly as brown as the chain rings. I always thought that looked goofy.

IM going to stop up at the LBS and see if they carry tektros tonight. I might opt for the r100a units or at least check them out while im there. Both look decent. The only concern i have is the rubber moving all over the place.

Lenton58 

Bianchigirll: I see ... I guess that once the chassis (as it were) gets worn, they have had their day. I've not studied levers closely, but I would assume the high-end uses bushings between the pins and the frame, which would extend the life of a lever. Of course, crashing never does any ally part any favors.

scale

and now im on the hunt for some 105 slr aero levers....

the LBS didnt have any tektros

scale

the news is this: I have my "like new" SLR levers.

in taking my old levers off i noticed that the cables and housings were showing wear. Time for new cables and housings.....

Above....you talked about getting good cables.

Where can one get red housing and decent cables? Id go black but i want to keep it looking the way it is.

I have not checked my LBS for red housing yet but somthing tells me they wont have it. Last i checked they had over priced braided colored jagwire kits which i have used in the past but wasnt too impressed with on a older road bike. Can solid colored decent housing still be had?

Lenton58 

I just grab what is on the display rack — even a local department store carries it. The product in question is a kit — DURA ACE — so you know it is decent stuff. Only comes in black AFAIK. The sheath has a Teflon liner and the cable is stainless steel. My LBS also sells solid color cable — three of four colors — but the mechanic tells me that the separate wire and sheathing that is sold by the metre is not as good quality as what is in the Dura Ace kit. There is a shifter cable kit sold as well. Will your LBS order this? If they have access to Shimano wholesale distribution/supply, I cannot imagine why they can't order it. These kits cost a little bit more, but I feel that they are well worth it.

Bianchigirll 

I used Jagwire on my Sport SX. I haven't ridden other than a testride but I am pretty happy with it. I got a cheapish kit off ebay from thiland I think. I'll see if I can find the seller.


these look like what I bought. brake cable and housing but only shifter housing no cables.

https://cgi.ebay.com/Jagwire-Cable-Ho...item19bcfc7894

Lenton58 

They look good — Cheers!