Recover Your Saddle
#151
Cult Classic Cycling Club
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hamilton, ON
Posts: 685
Bikes: Ridley Helium, Norco Search
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
i'm going to the fabric store tomorrow to look at some white leather, going to give it a try
#153
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Chattanooga
Posts: 1,154
Bikes: '93 Bridgestone RB-1, '91 Specialized Allez Epic, '85 Raleigh Team Pro, '78 Andre Bertin, early '90s F. Moser Leader AX , '85 Centurion Equipe, '98 Litespeed Tuscany, '89 Klein Quantum, '80 Nishiki Superbe, '83 Peckham, '84 Fuji Opus III
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
9 Posts
I recently successfully re-covered a couple of saddles. One was reluctant to let me pull away the old leather without tearing the foam. Since the old leather was quite thin I just cleaned it, trimmed and removed the folded-under skirt and used the original as a substrate for the new cover. Worked out nicely. The new surface is very smooth and taut.
J
J
#154
Your mom
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
To preface: I have not yet recovered a saddle. That said, the best foam I have found was through a reupholsterer. My wife and I redid the chairs in our dining room back before we had kids and had a nearly infinite amount of time. The foam he supplied is of great density - the chairs are super comfortable for multi-hour sittings. If you could get a thin foam from a reupholstery shop, I would probably go that route.
#155
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: indiana...
Posts: 4
Bikes: 1997 bianchi campione d'italia del mondo; 2010 specialized sirrus cyclocross
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
i am gonna try this on my selle saddle from by bianchi....thanks for the info and inspiration.
#156
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 197
Bikes: Norco Bigfoot, Miyata 110, Giant TCR Advanced 0
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have a WTB saddle I would like to recover, but the existing cover cracked and the foam in that area is torn. will I be able to glue the crack together n the foam and re-cover it?
#157
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 387
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 137 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Hey guys. I found this thread and wanted to give this a shot. I recently picked up a Diamondback Master TG to build for a buddy. The bike was a 9/10 except the saddle. I went to the local thrift store and picked up a leather jacket for 10 bucks. I also used the 3M Super 77 like OP mentioned.
This overall process was much easier than I thought. A few things I will do different next time:
I had way too much material. I tried to trim it down but I didnt trim enough. It ended sticking to stuff and itself and generally got in the way. I also battled with glue on my hands that then got on the leather itself. What a pain that was.
Overall it was not as hard as I thought and it looks pretty good for my first try.
This overall process was much easier than I thought. A few things I will do different next time:
I had way too much material. I tried to trim it down but I didnt trim enough. It ended sticking to stuff and itself and generally got in the way. I also battled with glue on my hands that then got on the leather itself. What a pain that was.
Overall it was not as hard as I thought and it looks pretty good for my first try.
#159
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Magnolia State, 100° with 110% humidity
Posts: 1,230
Bikes: American, Italian, and Japanese.. in no particular order.
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 276 Times
in
128 Posts
Nothing wrong with that. Looks really good. A before picture of the saddle would've been cool to see.
#161
Senior Member
Came out great. I've been wanting to try leather. done a couple of seats with old tee shirts. (Cool graphics). I like how you left seat on the bike for the stretching. That spray adhesive is sticky for sure.
#163
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 2,185
Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes
Mentioned: 83 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 472 Post(s)
Liked 1,028 Times
in
404 Posts
Hey guys. I found this thread and wanted to give this a shot. I recently picked up a Diamondback Master TG to build for a buddy. The bike was a 9/10 except the saddle. I went to the local thrift store and picked up a leather jacket for 10 bucks. I also used the 3M Super 77 like OP mentioned.
On the first one I made a template from a piece of vinyl - shaped and sized just about right to cover the saddle and leave enough, but not too much, material for the job. Easier to handle this without the excess material. Good decision as I've used the template 6 times now to cut the actual leather.
Once I have the leather cut out, I soak it in warm water for a few minutes. Mounted the saddle on a post and secured that upright in the vice. I position, shape and stretch the wet leather over the saddle and hold that down with some weights hanging from the excess (clamps, etc) so it holds the right shape as it dries overnight. Next day remove the shaped leather and further let it dry real well for a day or two. Then glue it down.
I've used 3M spray adhesive too and it works great. However for the underside, securing the 'skirt' folded over the plastic pan, I just use Weldwood contact cement. That has surprised me with how long lasting it is and the contact cement is much easier to control than spray on the underside of the pan.
On my latest re-cover I'm going to experiment a bit. The original Vetta vinyl cover was not glued to the foam . Just the lower edge was glued. So I'm going to try that - just glue the leather around the outside and inside of the plastic pan's edge, using contact cement. Time will tell how that works out. If successful, it would be much less mess than using spray adhesive.
My problem has been how to best fold, tuck and finish the leather at the nose of the saddle. I'm sure there is a better way that will look nice. I'm not there yet. Maybe on my 14th saddle........
#164
Senior Member
@primo123 - looks great! Fantastic actually!
The one thing I have done also is I also use my bike stand to hold an old seatpost, but after the first I took an old beach towel, cut a small hole in the middle and put it over the seatpost so it covers my bike stand from the over spray..
I have done a leather one, but my recent ones have all been old T-shirts and even one of my old dress shirts..
Her's my very first, a 1994 Flite in white perforated that I bought new in 1994, now has 2.5 years and holding well:
And a Concor in one of my business shirts:
A Selle Italia from the late 80's wrapped in one of my Dad's 80's triathlon t-shirts that didn't fit anyone in the family anymore:
And another flite done in Star Wars:
The one thing I have done also is I also use my bike stand to hold an old seatpost, but after the first I took an old beach towel, cut a small hole in the middle and put it over the seatpost so it covers my bike stand from the over spray..
I have done a leather one, but my recent ones have all been old T-shirts and even one of my old dress shirts..
Her's my very first, a 1994 Flite in white perforated that I bought new in 1994, now has 2.5 years and holding well:
And a Concor in one of my business shirts:
A Selle Italia from the late 80's wrapped in one of my Dad's 80's triathlon t-shirts that didn't fit anyone in the family anymore:
And another flite done in Star Wars:
#165
Pedal to the medal
^^^ Very interesting recovering! I'm into it. I am; however, slightly concerned the screen printed portions won't allow you to slide around as easily on the saddle. Also, is the material too thin? Any reports about those points?
Still think it's real cool.
Still think it's real cool.
#166
Senior Member
@romperr - I bought that fabric treatment spray at Wally World that you spray on couches and the such to help water/food stuff to bead up and roll off it and I spray that on the saddles after all glue has dried.
Water beads up on them, my bibs don't get hung up on them... all works out really well actually.
Also, the t-shirt material is much easier to work with than leather.
The Star Wars is the 99 cents fabric swatch from the sewing section at Wal-Mart - they have TONS of paterns including some with bikes on them. I did another one with the "Day of the Dead" Mexican skulls on it but have to upload the pics...
- Andrew
Water beads up on them, my bibs don't get hung up on them... all works out really well actually.
Also, the t-shirt material is much easier to work with than leather.
The Star Wars is the 99 cents fabric swatch from the sewing section at Wal-Mart - they have TONS of paterns including some with bikes on them. I did another one with the "Day of the Dead" Mexican skulls on it but have to upload the pics...
- Andrew
#167
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Amsterdam
Posts: 1,662
Bikes: 1980 Koga-Miyata Gentsluxe-S, 1998 Eddy Merckx Corsa 01, 1983 Tommasini Racing, 2012 Gulf Western CAAD10, 1980 Univega Gran Premio
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 600 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
11 Posts
I used the time I had to take the Panasonic out of service to find a replacement binder bolt to recover the saddle. It's a very light Selle Italia Carbonio with minimal padding, and had no tears, so I didn't take the old leather off. The finish on the original leather was just shot, and was starting to rough up my short. Plus it's that funky design with the little cutout triangle in the back, and I didn't want to mess with that.
I used the basic technique outlined here - sprayed the top of the saddle, and the bottom of the leather, with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, got a nice stretched fit, and then used Weldwood contact cement on the underside edges and the leather that wrapped under. Had to mess around with the nose and redo it a couple of times, and never got the under-wrap there as neat and wrinkle free as I wanted, but it looks great. After one ride it might even be a teeny tiny bit more comfortable.
Don't know why I didn't take a photo from a similar view, or why the first photo is upside-down. Anyway, I already had the spray adhesive and contact cement, so for about $4 in high quality scrap leather, I have a super light saddle that should be good for at least a few more years.
I used the basic technique outlined here - sprayed the top of the saddle, and the bottom of the leather, with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive, got a nice stretched fit, and then used Weldwood contact cement on the underside edges and the leather that wrapped under. Had to mess around with the nose and redo it a couple of times, and never got the under-wrap there as neat and wrinkle free as I wanted, but it looks great. After one ride it might even be a teeny tiny bit more comfortable.
Don't know why I didn't take a photo from a similar view, or why the first photo is upside-down. Anyway, I already had the spray adhesive and contact cement, so for about $4 in high quality scrap leather, I have a super light saddle that should be good for at least a few more years.
#168
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,827 Times
in
1,995 Posts
Wool felt under the cover will bridge the little "divots" you refer to without adding a lot to the thickness of the saddle.
And those wondering, vinyl is much harder to work with because it's less flexible and thicker. OTOH you can hone your skills on vinyl fairly cheaply.
One thing you may find is that Super 77 adhesive may get soft in the heat of summer. I switched to Weldwood contact cement and got much better results. I do like the spray for the top of the saddle but I use the Weldwood on the edges where it really has to adhere.
Nice job OP...that looks really nice. Donor leather jacket, whodathunkit.
And those wondering, vinyl is much harder to work with because it's less flexible and thicker. OTOH you can hone your skills on vinyl fairly cheaply.
One thing you may find is that Super 77 adhesive may get soft in the heat of summer. I switched to Weldwood contact cement and got much better results. I do like the spray for the top of the saddle but I use the Weldwood on the edges where it really has to adhere.
Nice job OP...that looks really nice. Donor leather jacket, whodathunkit.
#169
Banned.
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 3,061
Bikes: Homebuilt steel
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2193 Post(s)
Liked 425 Times
in
337 Posts
Bumping this back with kudos to the OP for starting this great thread.
I've got a couple of Avocet O2's I want to recover and need advice on what thickness leather to order. As near as I can tell the cover thickness as removed is about 1.0mm. What I don't know is how much the leather stretched to reach this level. 1.0mm translates to 2-3 oz leather but this is thinner than what was mentioned earlier in this thread (5-6 oz). Any suggestions that don't involve buying an old coat? I'm thinking of ordering from ebay.
I've got a couple of Avocet O2's I want to recover and need advice on what thickness leather to order. As near as I can tell the cover thickness as removed is about 1.0mm. What I don't know is how much the leather stretched to reach this level. 1.0mm translates to 2-3 oz leather but this is thinner than what was mentioned earlier in this thread (5-6 oz). Any suggestions that don't involve buying an old coat? I'm thinking of ordering from ebay.
#170
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
You can usually find the right piece of leather as a scrap on eBay. Try to be sare you get 'a fairly new piece, though; old leather can dry out and lose its stretchiness.
3 oz sounds about right. A little more won't hurt as long as it's stretchy
3 oz sounds about right. A little more won't hurt as long as it's stretchy
#171
Senior Member
1mm is about what I have pulled off old saddles. What I have used as replacement is “upholstery leather” that is more like 2mm. I would not try anything thicker than that, especially if you have any tricky compound curves like on the back of a Concor.
#172
Banned.
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 3,061
Bikes: Homebuilt steel
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2193 Post(s)
Liked 425 Times
in
337 Posts
Okay, got some leather inbound. I also bought some "Barge" cement.
Question: does heating the leather help with stretching around the underside and getting it to lay down flat? I've seen automotive seats assembled and the workers used steam wands to heat up the cover for better stretching and working out wrinkles.
Question: does heating the leather help with stretching around the underside and getting it to lay down flat? I've seen automotive seats assembled and the workers used steam wands to heat up the cover for better stretching and working out wrinkles.
#173
Senior Member
Okay, got some leather inbound. I also bought some "Barge" cement.
Question: does heating the leather help with stretching around the underside and getting it to lay down flat? I've seen automotive seats assembled and the workers used steam wands to heat up the cover for better stretching and working out wrinkles.
Question: does heating the leather help with stretching around the underside and getting it to lay down flat? I've seen automotive seats assembled and the workers used steam wands to heat up the cover for better stretching and working out wrinkles.
#175
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,624
Bikes: iele Latina, Miele Suprema, Miele Uno LS, Miele Miele Beta, MMTB, Bianchi Model Unknown, Fiori Venezia, Fiori Napoli, VeloSport Adamas AX
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1324 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
640 Posts
Okay, got some leather inbound. I also bought some "Barge" cement.
Question: does heating the leather help with stretching around the underside and getting it to lay down flat? I've seen automotive seats assembled and the workers used steam wands to heat up the cover for better stretching and working out wrinkles.
Question: does heating the leather help with stretching around the underside and getting it to lay down flat? I've seen automotive seats assembled and the workers used steam wands to heat up the cover for better stretching and working out wrinkles.
Btw, I found that the thin foam sold as camping pads is most excellent for putting a layer of foam under the leather if the original foam is too damaged or if i want just a bit more cushioning. The foam is thin enough that on a long ride it does not compress so much as to cause problems where it doesn't compress like thickly padded saddles (or shorts) often do.
Cheers