Polish vs. Patina
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Polish vs. Patina
Do you prefer a mirror-like polished aluminum crankset, or one that looks its age? Why?
I should say that I'm in the latter camp, myself, partly because I'm lazy and partly because I can't shake the idea that polishing a crankset is too much like taking the copper polish to a collection of rare pennies. Not trying to stir up trouble--just wondering what people think.
I should say that I'm in the latter camp, myself, partly because I'm lazy and partly because I can't shake the idea that polishing a crankset is too much like taking the copper polish to a collection of rare pennies. Not trying to stir up trouble--just wondering what people think.
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Last edited by jonwvara; 03-12-11 at 05:00 PM.
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Do you prefer a mirror-like polished aluminum crankset, or one that looks its age? Why?
I should say that I'm in the latter camp, myself, partly because I'm lazy and partly because I can't shake the idea that polishing a crankset is too much like takinging the copper polish to a collection of rare pennies. Not trying to stir up trouble--just wondering what people think.
I should say that I'm in the latter camp, myself, partly because I'm lazy and partly because I can't shake the idea that polishing a crankset is too much like takinging the copper polish to a collection of rare pennies. Not trying to stir up trouble--just wondering what people think.
#4
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I am of the same mindset as wogs. But sometimes when I see khatfulls work, or some of the other super polished bikes on here, I think about changing my mind. I just wonder if I got my cranks looking that nice how long it would last and how bummed out I would be when the luster went away. then, would I be hooked on polishing or not. I guess you don't know until you try it.
#5
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jonwvara, For me it depends on the bike's finish. New paint/decals/detailed to the inth degree...polish all of the aluminum bits to match. For an original finish frame showing honest wear and tear just a good cleaning will do.
Brad
Brad
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I like to polish parts when I'm building up a bike, but I don't go to a chrome like finish, more like a clean, silver finish. I leave the scratches and stuff so it fits back into the patina of the bike. Sometimes I just wire wheel them for a softer look.
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The rider in me could care less about polish. I often times don't even use oil...
The custom bike builder demands polish, and as much as I can get my hands on...
The restorer in me insists it look original, as issued, one day one. But that can be pretty polishy also...
The custom bike builder demands polish, and as much as I can get my hands on...
The restorer in me insists it look original, as issued, one day one. But that can be pretty polishy also...
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If the bike has original finish in good condition and no serious rust issues I might replace any damaged decals, or just leave it. If it's really scarred up, needs extensive rust treatment or has been really badly battle-canned, then I generally strip it to bare metal and spray enamel from scratch, "baking" the paint hard between coats on our dining room radiator.
Last edited by Oldpeddaller; 03-12-11 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Spelling errors
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Clean not polished. But I like a shiny bike just as much as the next guy.
#11
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Fail.
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Once it's polished, it's easy to keep it polished. And dirt just wipes right off.
#14
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When you polish aluminum, you're removing the protective oxide layer and some of the underlying metal, yes? Any idea how long you can keep doing that before the crank (or other aluminum part) starts diminishing like a used bar of soap? Not that dramatically, obviously, but I'd think you'd eventually tend to notice it as edges that are supposed to look hard beginning to appear rounded over. Or will that never happen? Or will it happen, but gradually enough that it's something for the next generation of polishers to worry about, not us?
There are at least a few old-car types on this forum. From talking with my brother, who restores 60s Oldsmobiles, I have a vague idea that there are two (well, many more than just two, I suppose) schools of thought about old cars: the chrome 'em up hot-rod school, and the faithful restoration school, that aims to bring the car back to the way it looked the day it rolled off the assembly line, but no flashier than that. Is that at all analogous to the polish/don't polish school of bike crankery?
There are at least a few old-car types on this forum. From talking with my brother, who restores 60s Oldsmobiles, I have a vague idea that there are two (well, many more than just two, I suppose) schools of thought about old cars: the chrome 'em up hot-rod school, and the faithful restoration school, that aims to bring the car back to the way it looked the day it rolled off the assembly line, but no flashier than that. Is that at all analogous to the polish/don't polish school of bike crankery?
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#15
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now hold on just one hot second. you did this in your garage? have you posted a separate thread revealing your secrets? looks stunning!
back on topic: polished
i've ridden hundreds of miles on a DA polished crankset and have yet to see any signs of negative effect. as previously mentioned, dirt and grime wipes off easily, if it does scuff or scratch, just polish it out. it doesn't take nearly as long, as someone who hasn't done it, thinks.
#16
Disraeli Gears
The higher the polish, the less surface area to corrode; thus, easier to keep decent looking over the long run, with minimal but regular attention.
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When you polish aluminum, you're removing the protective oxide layer and some of the underlying metal, yes? Any idea how long you can keep doing that before the crank (or other aluminum part) starts diminishing like a used bar of soap? Not that dramatically, obviously, but I'd think you'd eventually tend to notice it as edges that are supposed to look hard beginning to appear rounded over. Or will that never happen? Or will it happen, but gradually enough that it's something for the next generation of polishers to worry about, not us?
There are at least a few old-car types on this forum. From talking with my brother, who restores 60s Oldsmobiles, I have a vague idea that there are two (well, many more than just two, I suppose) schools of thought about old cars: the chrome 'em up hot-rod school, and the faithful restoration school, that aims to bring the car back to the way it looked the day it rolled off the assembly line, but no flashier than that. Is that at all analogous to the polish/don't polish school of bike crankery?
There are at least a few old-car types on this forum. From talking with my brother, who restores 60s Oldsmobiles, I have a vague idea that there are two (well, many more than just two, I suppose) schools of thought about old cars: the chrome 'em up hot-rod school, and the faithful restoration school, that aims to bring the car back to the way it looked the day it rolled off the assembly line, but no flashier than that. Is that at all analogous to the polish/don't polish school of bike crankery?
#19
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A. I see no reason wherein the existing finish of any metal or paint finish on a bicycle shouldn't be cleaned and polished as best as they can. I see no cause for considering surface-rusted handlebars or oxidized aluminum hubs - two of many examples - desirable or recipients of legitimate patina. They aren't. Polish them as best possible - it is good for the part, and it is good for appearances.
B. There comes a point where certain rust spots, worn paint, and aluminum finishes will polish only so much. It is at this point that you leave well enough alone. This remaining, refurbished finish - with whatever cosmetic damage may remain - can be considered true patina, if the damage is structurally irrelevant.
C. Nothing was "aged" when it was new (save for Brooks saddles with that treatment, perhaps). If the original finish is intact and buried under oxidation, it has no reason to be left under there - at that point, "patina" claims are utter bull. Polish it.
-Kurt
B. There comes a point where certain rust spots, worn paint, and aluminum finishes will polish only so much. It is at this point that you leave well enough alone. This remaining, refurbished finish - with whatever cosmetic damage may remain - can be considered true patina, if the damage is structurally irrelevant.
C. Nothing was "aged" when it was new (save for Brooks saddles with that treatment, perhaps). If the original finish is intact and buried under oxidation, it has no reason to be left under there - at that point, "patina" claims are utter bull. Polish it.
-Kurt
#20
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Grand Bois, anyone who appreciates bikes can tell that your beater is really a fine bike. And some bike thieves know bikes. I'm not predicting any sad stories, though. And I'm sure you know all this.
I once had my crank and freewheel and derailleurs removed from my beater. It was beatier looking than yours.
I once had my crank and freewheel and derailleurs removed from my beater. It was beatier looking than yours.
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#21
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You're right, we don't need schools. On the other hand, we seem to HAVE schools. But I think that's okay--otherwise our bikes would all look the same.
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I think it depends on the part too. I wince a bit when I see folks remove that nice old pearly anodizing from Nuovo Record parts, etc. It was put there for a reason and I personally like the look of it as opposed to bright and shiny high buff. That said, I had to polish a set of NR brakes as the finish was compromised and a goner. They looked really nice all polished up but I still prefer the soft glow of the originals. For me I guess it boils down to; polish if you have to, but otherwise, leave it alone. 2 cents.
#23
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now hold on just one hot second. you did this in your garage? have you posted a separate thread revealing your secrets? looks stunning!
back on topic: polished
i've ridden hundreds of miles on a DA polished crankset and have yet to see any signs of negative effect. as previously mentioned, dirt and grime wipes off easily, if it does scuff or scratch, just polish it out. it doesn't take nearly as long, as someone who hasn't done it, thinks.
back on topic: polished
i've ridden hundreds of miles on a DA polished crankset and have yet to see any signs of negative effect. as previously mentioned, dirt and grime wipes off easily, if it does scuff or scratch, just polish it out. it doesn't take nearly as long, as someone who hasn't done it, thinks.
enamel top coat and clear gloss enamel lacquer. I use an airless electric spay plant for bike frames, low pressure adjusted to give a 3 to 4" oval spray pattern. Tips are not to try to lay on too much paint at once, "dust" it on gently in thin coats. Let each coat dry thoroughly and if there are no defects that need attention, lay on another coat. If work is needed, leave the paint to harden for two days before lightly wet sanding out the problem. (This one went like a dream). between colours I stand the frame on our double dining room radiator for a week or so. This really does harden up the surface. Can't do a search mid-post without losing my text, but if you search for the thread under something like "Rescued 1966 Claud Butler" or under my user name you should find it.
Nice finish on those cranks and the hub, by the way! Did you use Mother's then Blue Magic polishes?
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A. I see no reason wherein the existing finish of any metal or paint finish on a bicycle shouldn't be cleaned and polished as best as they can. I see no cause for considering surface-rusted handlebars or oxidized aluminum hubs - two of many examples - desirable or recipients of legitimate patina. They aren't. Polish them as best possible - it is good for the part, and it is good for appearances.
...
C. Nothing was "aged" when it was new (save for Brooks saddles with that treatment, perhaps). If the original finish is intact and buried under oxidation, it has no reason to be left under there - at that point, "patina" claims are utter bull. Polish it.
-Kurt
...
C. Nothing was "aged" when it was new (save for Brooks saddles with that treatment, perhaps). If the original finish is intact and buried under oxidation, it has no reason to be left under there - at that point, "patina" claims are utter bull. Polish it.
-Kurt
We used to see some new bikes arrive from Europe with patina courtesy of the shipping lines...
#25
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Me too! Doesn't stop me from polishing them up like chrome but that doesn't last more than a few weeks before the surface starts to dull again, but still looks smooth and clean. So, clean and bright is good enough for me!
If the bike has original finish in good condition and no serious rust issues I might replace any damaged decals, or just leave it. If it's really scarred up, needs extensive rust treatment or has been really badly battle-canned, then I generally strip it to bare metal and spray enamel from scratch, "baking" the paint hard between coats on our dining room radiator.
If the bike has original finish in good condition and no serious rust issues I might replace any damaged decals, or just leave it. If it's really scarred up, needs extensive rust treatment or has been really badly battle-canned, then I generally strip it to bare metal and spray enamel from scratch, "baking" the paint hard between coats on our dining room radiator.