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  1. #1
    R20, 650B, Touring BillP's Avatar
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    Cable end fray treatment?

    Hiya ,

    I used to solder up the ends of cables to stop them fraying, but the new stainless steel stuff doesn't seem to want to take solder. And I think also that modern cables fray more readily?. What y'all doin fer this?

    When did the aluminium blind crimps come in? I think they might be post C & V?

    What about shrink tube?

    Bill P

  2. #2
    Senior Member Old Yeller's Avatar
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    Try a drop of super glue on the stainless instead of solder.

  3. #3
    rhm
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    multimodal commuter rhm's Avatar
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    I've done super glue, and I've done epoxy. Neither is, in my experience, quite perfect. But it helps. Heat shrink tubing is also pretty good, but it will slip off if you yank on it.

    I've seen the cable end clips on bikes that look like they haven't been worked on in 60+ years. They look a little different, but I wouldn't worry about the C&V aspect of it. The ones we had in the shop in the early 80's were just like the ones out today.

  4. #4
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    Cable crimp tips might not be period correct but they are the best thing ever invented. Just buy a bottle of 500 for $15-20 and have a lifetime's supply and never look back. Then again I use modern tires and brake shoes too. I guess I'm not a purist
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  5. #5
    Holy Spokes it's Batsman! Glennfordx4's Avatar
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    I just use the cable end crimp caps in silver, I think I paid $10 or $15 for a bottle of 500. I also want to get some in black.


    So Many Bikes Too Little Space

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  6. #6
    FBoD Member at Large khatfull's Avatar
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    Here's an idea if you don't want to use the crimp end OP, strip some bare copper wire out of something, small, 24ga or less, wrap the end of the cable, THEN solder.

    While you're at it maybe tie and solder your wheels too

    Idea?

  7. #7
    Senior Member irwin7638's Avatar
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    I use epoxy with mostly great success. I let it dry overnight and cut it with a dremel rather than wirecutters.

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  8. #8
    Senior Member southpawboston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khatfull View Post
    Here's an idea if you don't want to use the crimp end OP, strip some bare copper wire out of something, small, 24ga or less, wrap the end of the cable, THEN solder.
    Interesting!

  9. #9
    Senior Member ScottRyder's Avatar
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    I use the standard aluminum crimp ends but then I'll paint them to match a color on the frame, handlebar tape or decals.

    Scott

  10. #10
    RFC
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    Me thinks that concern about whether cable end caps are C&V may be approaching the obsessive.

  11. #11
    PanGalacticGargleBlaster Zaphod Beeblebrox's Avatar
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    Similar to Epoxy although I haven't tried it I'd bet JB Weld would work well. When its dry you can sand and shape it and even paint it.
    --Don't Panic.

  12. #12
    FBoD Member at Large khatfull's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottryder View Post
    I use the standard aluminum crimp ends but then I'll paint them to match a color on the frame, handlebar tape or decals.

    Scott
    Hey, where's my pearl orange?


  13. #13
    rhm
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFC View Post
    Me thinks that concern about whether cable end caps are C&V may be approaching the obsessive.
    True. The most C&V cable end treatment is a rough cut about an inch from the pinch bolt, frayed out about halfway. Rust is optional. Stainless cable is not.

  14. #14
    Senior Member ScottRyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khatfull View Post
    Hey, where's my pearl orange?

    I haven't made up my mind yet what color to use. Orange, yellow, black or blue to match the bar wrap? These things take time!

    Scott

  15. #15
    Chrome Freak Rabid Koala's Avatar
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    I use heat shrink tubing mainly because it will come off with little effort.
    1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
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  16. #16
    Senior Member JTGraphics's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillP View Post
    Hiya ,

    I used to solder up the ends of cables to stop them fraying, but the new stainless steel stuff doesn't seem to want to take solder. And I think also that modern cables fray more readily?. What y'all doin fer this?

    When did the aluminium blind crimps come in? I think they might be post C & V?

    What about shrink tube?

    Bill P
    Use silver solder on the stainless steel cable.
    It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
    http://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm

  17. #17
    Senior Member randyjawa's Avatar
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    You can cut the head off of a brass or alloy spoke nipple and then crimp that into place. Clean it up a wee bit with a file and it will look just fine.

    Personally, I use the ones I get in a bottle from the local bicycle shop. And, strangely enough, they are very similar to the ones on the twenty, thirty and sometimes forty year old bikes that I drag home.
    Learn how to find, restore and maintain vintage road bicycles at... MY "TEN SPEEDS"

  18. #18
    Senior Member Chris_in_Miami's Avatar
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    I like the idea of soldering the ends for the convenience of being able to remove/re-thread the cable quickly without an end cap getting in the way, though I appreciate the caps when I get stabbed by an uncapped end.

    For those who solder - do you solder the cable in place and let the brake/derailleur cable clamp act as a heat sink, or do you remove the cable before soldering to protect the cable liner?

  19. #19
    Senior Member JTGraphics's Avatar
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    You can solder if you like that area whip it down when hot and the size will not increase allowing you to still slide the cable in and out of the housing also.
    Cutting can be done with a pair of wire cutters also on the solder area cuts clean
    It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
    http://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm

  20. #20
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    For 80's and later classics, they are period correct as my 80's bikes came with them when I bought them . I've used them on my cable tips since the 80's and I can't go without them as I really hate frayed cable tips on a bike....yecccchhh..........and ouch too!

    Chombi

  21. #21
    FBoD Member at Large khatfull's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottryder View Post
    I haven't made up my mind yet what color to use. Orange, yellow, black or blue to match the bar wrap? These things take time!

    Scott
    Hahaha, just busting YOUR chops for a change

  22. #22
    French threaded PDXaero's Avatar
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    A dab of clear nail polish works for me.
    ISO
    stronglight 107 cranks

  23. #23
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    The crimp ends come right off with a solid yank with the side-cutters. Crimp a new one on when you are done. The side-cutters I have have a crimper built into them. I always have a side-cutters when I work on anything. I guess it is an electrician thing.

    Ideal side-cutter.JPG

    I fail to see what the big deal is with these crimps. They cost something like $.03 each when you buy them in bulk. Often you can re-use the ones you yank off anyhow. A bottle of 500 should last any home mechanic a lifetime. It's like ferrules, oil, grease, a variety of bulk bearings sized in jars, or any other consumable used when working on bikes.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  24. #24
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    The crimp ends come right off with a solid yank with the side-cutters. Crimp a new one on when you are done. The side-cutters I have have a crimper built into them. I always have a side-cutters when I work on anything. I guess it is an electrician thing.

    Ideal side-cutter.JPG

    I fail to see what the big deal is with these crimps. They cost something like $.03 each when you buy them in bulk. Often you can re-use the ones you yank off anyhow. A bottle of 500 should last any home mechanic a lifetime. It's like ferrules, oil, grease, a variety of bulk bearings sized in jars, or any other consumable used when working on bikes.
    Crimps are great, but you do have a wide variety of them to choose from. I like the smallest diameters I can find, with the domed end, as some of them tend to be too chunky and look awful after you crimp them on.

    Chombi

  25. #25
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    I've got a bottle of XLC crimps sized 1.0-1.2mm and I've yet to run into a cable that they haven't fit on or looked bad. I've used them on deraileur cable and brake cable. Perhaps my personal level of "looks bad" is different than many other wrenches. They work fine and when crimped with my crimper they work well even on thinner cable.

    BTW, nice VFR you have there Chombi.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

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