Does it matter how far you spread the drops on the rear of one of those old cruisers?
#1
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Does it matter how far you spread the drops on the rear of one of those old cruisers?
I've got an old SS that I was told(previously repainted) is a Murray hanging in the storage unit. I've also got a set of aluminum MTB wheels with 9 speed set-up that would make the bike lighter and more versatile. Would it be safe to spread it far enough to fit those wheels? MTB spacing is 135mm. Otherwise maybe I could re-lace the rim onto a 9sp road hub if 135mm is too far but 130mm would be OK. It would probably make a really cool little 1x9 town cruiser/grocery getter if I can figure out the crank situation.
If it helps answer the question at all, my bike looks pretty much like this, but without the tank or racks.
If it helps answer the question at all, my bike looks pretty much like this, but without the tank or racks.
#2
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You spread her that far, she'll complain for sure, and probably rub somewhere.
Going from what is likely 120 or 126 to 135 is a Lot. Even going to 130 from 120 is a stretch. (I can't escape the puns)
However, it's an older bike and may work. Most likely, if it does, you'll have chain rubbing on the outer cog.
Try to guage the clearance, then trial and error is your friend. It's steel, she'll recover. Maybe even be grateful.
Going from what is likely 120 or 126 to 135 is a Lot. Even going to 130 from 120 is a stretch. (I can't escape the puns)
However, it's an older bike and may work. Most likely, if it does, you'll have chain rubbing on the outer cog.
Try to guage the clearance, then trial and error is your friend. It's steel, she'll recover. Maybe even be grateful.
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if you want to make it a multispeed, I would go IGH. if you just want to lighten it up, look at Niagara or Bike Island for alloy cruiser wheels. how are you going to attach the RD?
don't forget, once you spread the rear triangle you have to make sure the frame is now straight and the dropouts parrellel.
don't forget, once you spread the rear triangle you have to make sure the frame is now straight and the dropouts parrellel.
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If you are using a QR hub I don't think it will work out to well, if you get a solid Axle though I would try it using a hanger claw for the RD. The trick is opening both sides up evenly a little at a time. If you have a one piece crank you can either get a square taper BB adapter and use a 3 piece crank or rob a one piece triple crank from a cheap MTB. I have a old Royce Union 3sp frame that I want to put a 7spd MTB wheelset in some day and don't see why I couldn't make it work. If you know someone at a LBS that can help set it up so everything is square when you are done spreading it that would be the ticket.
Most likely it has 110 or 120 spacing stock.
Glenn
Most likely it has 110 or 120 spacing stock.
Glenn
#5
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If it's 120 going to 135 isn't really much of a stretch... 7.5mm each side isn't a huge amount, not much more than a 1/4". I doubt the dropouts and frame were made to very high tolerances anyway.
#6
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That's what I was thinking. And this old thing is definitely a sturdy build. Pretty sure I could drop a grenade on it and it would be fine. I just wanted to double check here before I went bending anything.
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I was thinking more along the lines of a 7 or 8spd IGH
this sounds like a huge undertaking. have you considered cable routing and how to afix them to the frame? sounds like you may have zip ties everywhere when you get done. maybe a 8spd Nexus with a coaster brake is the to go.
have oyu considered finding a nice MTB and putting slicks and tighter cassette on it?
this sounds like a huge undertaking. have you considered cable routing and how to afix them to the frame? sounds like you may have zip ties everywhere when you get done. maybe a 8spd Nexus with a coaster brake is the to go.
have oyu considered finding a nice MTB and putting slicks and tighter cassette on it?
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If you haven't taken it apart yet, you probably don't realize how heavy that frame is. Lighter wheels wouldn't hurt on this bike, but the bare frame and crank will already weigh more than many complete road or mountain bikes.
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Bending the stays apart to make room for the wheel is probably okay, but when you're done you have to make sure the dropouts are perfectly parallel, which will probably mean bending them both back a bit. Bike shops have a tool for checking this; you might want to have them do the job. Parallel dropouts are really important if you're going to use an internally geared hub, otherwise you'll have terrible shifting. Any hub, IGH or otherwise, is guaranteed to suffer uneven cone wear and probably a broken axle before very long.
#10
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I figured you meant a IGH with more gears, but I don't really have $100 to spend on a hub for this and she may end up deciding she doesn't want to ride it much anyway. I have considered the MTB route, which I may end up going with. Maybe I'll think on this some more before I go ahead with anything.
#11
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3speed, Is this a coaster brake bike? I think they're closer to 115 mm.
Brad
Brad
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If you're gonna do a 1x9 be sure to get your chainline nice and centered up on the 4/5 gear so you get OK chainline throughout the range.
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